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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Isn't Life Strange (5.11c)
By: Brad Schildt When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great exposure, varied moves, well-protected - overall an excellent route. Thank you Bob, Vaino and Greg.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott ... (5.9)
By: Brad Schildt When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Aeon that clipping the first bolt is a bit runout, as well as it being a long way from the 4th bolt to the anchors. A decent warm-up for the routes above, which are amazing!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Bedtime Story (5.10b)
By: Brad Schildt When: Apr 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear is really not needed for the belay. Simply clip the first bolt with a long piece of webbing for your belayer. On a breezy day, there is no wind in the gully, which makes for a very pleasant belay with an alpine feel to it.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Old People's Dome : Creeping Senility (5.6 R)
By: Brad Schildt When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad to hear that this is now rated 5.6. In 1992 when I first did this route the "Poorperson's Guidebook" rated this as 5.3!
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Middle Earth : Erebor : Three Rings for the Elven K... (5.9)
By: Brad Schildt When: Mar 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 bolts on a 150' pitch, where pro is required for a majority of the climb is not a Sport climb. "Trad" is a fair label for this route, "Mixed" would be better.
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Brad Schildt When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the parking issue, I agree that potentially on summer weekends (32 out of 365 days each year), there may be additional parking issues in Eldo. For the other 333 days of the year, there will be no parking issues. Let's not restrict access for other recreationalists (and ourselves) due to parking issues on the busiest 10% of the year. It is too hot to climb in Eldo midday in the summer anyway.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Cannabis Sportiva (5.11a)
By: Brad Schildt When: Apr 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kudos to Matt Robertson for a classic route description! I found 13 reeferences...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Brad Schildt When: Apr 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack system to the right as described by Chris Perkins is about 100 feet right of the South Face route. I'd call it 5.7/8 with consistent, fun moves on the first pitch to a bolted belay/rap station. The second pitch ascends the south tower (which is the higher of the two summits!) via a chimney then face moves to the top. Great route!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Tabula Rasa (5.10c)
By: Brad Schildt When: Sep 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is above the 5th bolt - far enough above the bolt to make for some spicy falls for me. But the rock is smooth, so there is no shredding going on, which is nice. Above the 6th bolt is easier climbing, but the moves are fun and the view is spectacular. An amazing climb.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Inner Peace (5.10b)
By: Brad Schildt When: Sep 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was substantially more difficult than Hot Zone, but not nearly as hard as Tabula Rasa. The numerous hold choices make for a meandering route, but if you can find the right holds, I do not think it is harder than 10a.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Brad Schildt When: Aug 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Compareth is to the climbs put up in Boulder Canyon since 2000, and you have to call this route 5.9.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Brad Schildt When: Jul 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the Bastille Crack again last weekend with my buddy Rob, who taught me to climb 22 years ago. We were the second party on Saturday morning. The first party was from Illinois, and they were great guys enjoying a week in the Rockies. At the bottom of the third pitch, the belayer offered to wait and let us pass on the fourth pitch, because we were climbing a bit faster than them. We took him up on the offer, I gave them a little beta on avoiding rope drag on the last pitch, and climbed qu... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Brad Schildt When: Mar 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very easy decent route can be found to the east of Hillbilly Rock. From the Stairway to Heaven summit, descend as described above until even with the Like Heaven pinnacle and then cut NE through the notch (which is visible in the beta photo). Then follow the faint trail down to the creek.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Brad Schildt When: Nov 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: We just did this on Saturday, and got lost following the beta here. The pitch starting at the Crow's Nest and ending at the tree is actually well protected. After downclimbing the ramp, you will see a piton referenced by Clare. Indeed, it is 20 feet right of the bulging corner that people try to protect with a # 3 or 4 Camalot. A few feet left of the piton, it is possible to step up above the ramp by grabbing a couple of flakes. Continue up and left to the continuation of the bulging corne... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: Brad Schildt When: Oct 1, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route does continue to the summit, through some fun, small roofs. Easier climbing and a great way to summit.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Brad Schildt When: Sep 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is the most physical climbing I have ever done. 3 #4 Bigbros does allow you to sew it up - I did. After that, on the first pitch, something smaller than a .5 Camalot would be perfect, then you just clip ratty old slings. A .75 Camalot protects an awkward move on to the belay ledge. I also agree that a single set of Camalots is all you need for the rest of the climb. I brought doubles and did not use them. Use a #3 to back up the 3rd belay. 2 double 60m raps drop you t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Practice Rock : Lieback (5.9-)
By: Brad Schildt When: Sep 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: We've been rating this 5.10 for a long, long time, and after untold laps on all of the routes on Practice Rock think "Lieback" is definitely is harder than the route you call "Thin Crack" which is listed as 9+. Also, what is listed here as "Left Crack" is more like 5.8 than 5.9. I've been known to sandbag a bit, but I think more accurate ratings for Practive Rock routes left to right are 5.8, 5.9. 5.11, 5.10.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : Kor Route (5.10 R)
By: Brad Schildt When: Aug 20, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt ladder if done free (we did not) is 5.11. The traverse between P5 and P6 is long. Keep traversing until you can't go any farther. We did not have this beta and flailed miserably on various variations until we finally walked all the way around and saw the bolt ladder.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Brad Schildt When: Aug 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Additional beta: this is a good climb to wear a long sleeved shirt. Better yet, tape it around your wrists, so that when you show up at work the next day you don't have to explain those nasty scabs covering the insides of your wrists and forearms.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : West Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Brad Schildt When: Jun 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alternate descent: simul-rappel the arch. One 50-meter rope is sufficient. The tourists will think you're totally cool.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: Brad Schildt When: May 31, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why climb the Cobra? Because it shouldn't still be there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Brad Schildt When: May 31, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach: On the East side of the tower on the final hill, the trail splits. The left trail traverses along the base to the Sundevil Chimney. Take the right trail which continues ascending towards the wall North of the Titan, than head back South along the base of the wall to the Finger of Fate route. Additional Pro: bring along several Z pitons. The 2" piton scars are not 2" any more, and Z Pitons will be your new best friend. Also, bring old ropes for fixing the rappels. We shredded 2 jumaring... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers
By: Brad Schildt When: May 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't keep putting it off. Get out there, climb Ancient Art, and understand that the rock is not so bad. Do the Colorado Arete of King Fisher and realize, these towers can be climbed. Gaze East from the summit of King Fisher towards the Titan and know, it can be done. And from the summit of the Titan, retire from Fisher Tower climbing, content.
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