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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matthew,
Can you give us a couple examples of routes in the Moab area that you thought were C3?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Jackson Hole : Moonlight Spire (5.9 C2)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few thoughts:
The drive over Hurrah Pass isn't too bad but I wouldn't want to drive to Jackson Hole in my Subaru.
The river approach seems problematic with all the tamarisk lining the banks.
This tower is in an interesting area that feels pretty remote despite it's proximity to the Amasa Back trail and Potash Road.
You will definitely want to tie into two ropes to lead the first pitch.
You can backup the lone pendulum bolt with an old #5 and/or #6 Camalot.
We left baby angle... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet shot Ben!
I'm not sure this is Lockhart Basin though? Was this taken from the Needles Overlook?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Attila's Thumb : Mogul Emperor (5.11- PG13)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I wouldn't say that this route sucked, it is definitely not for everyone. I would say 1 star for the climbing and 3.5 stars for adventure.
A few thoughts...
The rappels are longer than they seem from the rim. We were wondering if we would make it with two ropes?... not even close.
The first pitch was rated 5.8 in DR4. It's more like loose 5.10 with a giant detached flake about 2/3rds of the way up. Still, it had some fun climbing. (more so if you're following)
The second pitch was the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : regular route (5.7 A1)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is brilliant! I would call it the Fine Jade of clean desert aid climbs.
Kudos to Bill, John, and Steve for finding this classic.
We climbed it without a hammer but I hand placed three peckers at the crux. I would not have wanted to climb that section on offsets. What did you use there Miles?
We also approached from the rim which is relatively casual. It's an easy but loose 5th class scramble to get down from the rim to where you will want to fix your ropes so be careful. The rappel ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : ... : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent shot, Cor!
I think you're right, George. That looks like the Sharkstooth and the Saber to me.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Plumb Tower : Low Hanging Fruit (5.11 C2)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it will go free. (probably at 5.11)
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful shot Keen.
Why is this off limits? Boulder water supply?
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : Finger of Fate : Open Book (5.8)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this route.
More photos and a TR at piquaclimber.com.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Endless Crack (5.9)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that the variation that Tim mentions was harder than 5.7. I also thought it was deserving of a very serious rating. You're looking at a 50 footer down the slab if you blow it just before the overlap. I can't remember if you would hit the ground if you blew it there but it would be ugly in any case.
From the crack, I headed up and slightly left to a stance on the arete hoping to find some gear. There was none so I had to continue to the overlap.
If memory serves, this is called the FI... more >>
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That does feel lunar!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman
By: Brad Brandewie When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a video I shot while rapping through the arch.
Sorry for the shaky part in the middle. It's not the easiest thing to change break hands while hanging out in the middle of that arch and shooting a video.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't you just love bolts that require you to clove a cord under the hanger?
Good stuff!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Orange Crush (5.13) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very Nice!
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Swaseyland : Broken Cross (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great series John.
Glad the gear held!
Let's get out this season.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think I've ever climbed a route with Sam that didn't involve some sort of hideous death block.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Matthes Crest : Matthes Crest Traverse - So... (5.7) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terrific shot Mike!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Ram Implosion Wing (5.12)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone here tried the Ram Implosion Wing? Is that thing for real? Looks interesting. Thanks for the link Joe.
I agree with the others who said you shouldn't rename an established route because you don't like the name.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I'll rename it, Sam's Hatchet Wound.
The bat thing was pretty weird. It fell for what seemed like 10 seconds before we realized what it was. It had crawled into another crack by the time we left the belay.
I only say that a strong party could get it free becasue you almost got it onsight while throwing big rocks out of the crack as you went and drilling above your head with the heaviest drill on the planet.
The next stud that heads up there will get a much cleaner crack, an overhead ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: True, but it was a nervous, manic laughter that only comes when you know you've gotten away with something.
I thought the aid seam on the first pitch was quite good.
The best part of the day was definitely the tyrollean.
Especially trying to get the rope over to the tower and watching you Brett Farve the bolting equipment from the rim.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stellar detail in the hi-res version!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sam Sam Sam... Everyone knows I'm a free climbing rock star.
Don't be bitter. You'll get there.
The only thing working against you is your age after all.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's one way to do it...
What could possibly go wrong?!?!?!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Table Mountain : Grotto, The : Men's Crisis Center (5.12a) : Photo
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great depth of field in this shot. It really puts you in the moment with the climber.
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Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side
By: Brad Brandewie When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What trail?
Can you give us a description or draw us a map?
Thanks,
Brad
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