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Location: AZ : Navajolands : Central Reservation Climbs : Rock Point Spire, N. Face (5.9 A3)
By: Brad Bond When: Apr 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this tower a few weeks ago at 5.9 C1. We did it in two pitches, but unintentionally (didn't read this first) added a variation. Instead of climbing the splitter on the summit block, I stepped left and climbed a left-facing corner to the left shoulder, then climbed cracks past a VERY loose block and 5.9 mantle to the summit(see photo). This variation isn't recommended, but I can't say I'd recommend the tower for it's quality of climbing alone(cool tower and setting, bad rock).
I know som... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Snake (Dogleg) Couloir (Steep Snow)
By: Brad Bond When: May 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some people rappel off the summit into the couloir. I guess it would depend on the conditions. I downclimbed in my ski boots and it was pretty terrifying.
A lot of skiers stash a car as far as they can up Dallas Creek and approach from the Yankee Boy side, which is fewer miles of sloggin', but doesn't let you ascend the couloir first (which is usually a good idea).
A even more classic descent is the Trilogy. Ski the Snake until it doglegs, then boot over the cornice into the West Couloir. Sk... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pin protecting the first hard moves on the chimney pitch is gone! NOT the one in the flake to the right of the chimney, but the one below it, the one that caused a bunch of ruckus at an FHRC meeting a few years back. A # 2 and 3 RP is actually quite bomber and the #2 friend is just at your feet when making the hard moves, so it's not too bad and probably safer now that you're putting in good gear instead of trusting fixed rust. Anyone know what happened to it?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm usually in favor of removing bolts if they are placed next to a handcrack, but I don't think this is the case with this route. I've only done this route 3 or 4 times, but is seemed that while there were a few bomber gear placements, others wouldn't be so bomber and the gear would be difficult to place, probably resulting in an "s" rating -- depending on which bolts were left. Sure, Steve D., myself and others would have put this route up differently, but we didn't.
As for Greaser and AC: Wh... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Giuoco Piano Direct (5.10b/c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is pretty tough and scary for the grade given -- one of those "Eldo 10c's" that could be 11a and the "s" could be "vs," depending, of course, on if you fell and if all the nuts and tcu's you spent an hour tinkering in behind loose flakes and in chossy cracks actually held (OK placements, not so good rock). The crux is pretty commiting and reachy, but the holds get better and good gear comes just when you really need it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Silver Raven (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: May 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one lo... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Erki Nool (WGA) (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a great addition to the wall -- fun moves with huge holds just when you need them. It's a good warm-up for Conan or Extreme; it's a little easier but gives you a good pump.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Skip rope-soloed the first ascent of this route in the early '80s, freeing it onsight while using a solo system of tying and untying overhand knots as there were no fancy rope-soloing devices back in the day.
This route is a blast! From the anchor it's easy to toprope Extreme, which felt a touch harder than Conan and seemed like it would be scary to lead. These routes get great late-day sun in the winter and are worth the slog up the gully.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, that's the worst beta I've ever given in my life! I meant to say three #4.5 Camalots. #4's are dead weight. Sorry about that...
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three stars if combined with Pervertical and four if you start on the first pitch of Ariana. The traverse left off pitch three of Pervertical is very inobvious; I think it's just below the bolt and in the vicinity of 5.9 or 10a, but the climbing could easily become harder if you go the wrong way.
We brought gear to 3.5" and three #4 Camalots, which worked perfectly. Running pitch one and two (as described above) is tough, as I found myself heli-pumped at the top of the handcrac... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was bolted really well, and a tad bit tough for 11a. I'd give it 11a/b.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering if anyone knows if this has had a ski descent? Either way, are their any experienced skiers who have climbed this in spring conditions and would be willing to offer their opinion on what this would entail? It sounds like it's a little late this year, but it looks pretty rad.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : North Face Ski Descent (Mod. Snow R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've skied the North Face twice in the past month and found it to be one of the best I've ever done. We were unable to find a way to drive all the way up Grizzly Gulch. The road ended at a mine. From there, walk back down the road about 100 feet and find a footbridge that crosses the creek and takes you up the hill to another road that leads up-vally to the couloirs(about a half hour). This road didn't look like it had seen much vehicle traffic. We hiked up and descended the obvious huge couloir... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Tubesock Tanline (5.11d R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric Johnson led this last summer in his effort to conquer his list of (personally) undone hard and heinous obscurities. His onsight attempt resulted in a fall that was held by the upside down kb, equalized with a small RP. He fell about 25ft and the rope caught him as he decked, providing just enough stretch to keep bones from getting broken. He went back up and sent it next try.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: A grey Metolius TCU can be placed blindly in the shallow, left-facing corner above the crux. It's actually quite bomber (I've almost fixed it!) and protects the hard high-step into the corner (if this feels scary, use double ropes). Once standing in the corner, all kinds of RPs and other stuff can be placed -- of course standing there and doing so is a whole different story. I don't think this pitch deserves an "s," but it is a hard and exciting lead for the grade; if you wobble, it'll... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Parallels (5.11b)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion 5.11c, three stars. It might feel a tad-bit easier on toprope as part of the difficulty comes from placing the gear. Concerning the "s" rating in the guidebook, my guess is that this route was much more difficult to lead without modern micro-cams, which felt very crucial at the crux.My advise to someone who is psyched to lead this route: Place all the gear at waist level; if you reach up and plug a cam in the fingerlocks above, you will increase the difficulty. Be efficie... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Face (5.10 R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...The step-across onto the undercling flake can be protected by a 3.5 friend placed to the right in a funky heuco. The placement is hard to see at first but it's actually pretty good.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Plastic Jesus (5.11b R)
By: Brad Bond When: Mar 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have done this both ways and would advise going left at the top. The right finish requires the leader to yard (In my case, for dear life!) on a huge loose flake that feels like it could come off, a good ways above the last piece.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Brad Bond When: Mar 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a fairly decent pin in the middle of the roof, which protects the crux getting to the lip(5.11d +). Have a 2.5 friend ready to fire into a bomber placement just above the lip, then be prepared for 10+ slab moves to the belay stance.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Brad Bond When: Dec 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Technically speaking, Astroman isn't much harder than the Edge. The pump/endurance factor is another issue. It sounds like you're there technically, so go to Indian Creek and spend a week climbing 5.11 or 11+ enduro cracks and you'll be there. The Rostrum is a good warm-up, but the Man is considerably harder. Don't stress out about flashing it; it's just an awesome feature to climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Crow's Landing (5.10 PG13)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a year or so ago and would agree with option 1 for pitch 1, except I don't remember it being scary. We did one more pitch to the top, following as shown on the topo in the guidebook. The 10+ start to this pitch is harder than it looks and is very scary as there is the slab to land on and the pro is questionable. The face above the small tree I remember being in the 5.9 range but with doubious rock and protection -- just a matter of finding the right path I guess. I think one star ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : The Green Room (5.10c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 18, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the moves over the initial bulge and up to the good protection to be about 5.8+ vs.-- as in insecure high stepping on licheny holds with a 30 ft. ledge fall. (Sounds like "vs" to me!)
So I, as the Brit's like to say, "wobbled." I traversed up and right to the second bolt on Pt. Break and clipped it with a double-length runner and this gave me no rope drag problems with the rest of the route. Even with this bolt clipped 20 ft. to my right, running out the 8+ was still "s," but made me h... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Windy (5.11a/b R)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't have a #5 Camalot and thought it was ok -- other than the runnout above the crux where you're gonna eat shit anyway. I got a #3 and 4 Camalot about 1 foot underneath where the 5 would have gone and several wires above the #5 placement. Either way, commiting to the crux is scary and a wee bit hard even for the grade given here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Thin Ice (5.9+ X)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...The gear also takes up most of the fingerlock and I placed it somewhat blindly from a stance on the right side of the arete.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Thin Ice (5.9+ X)
By: Brad Bond When: Nov 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A thread of 1/2" webbing can be slung around a small horn before cranking [left] around the arete to the fingerlock, as well as the RPs mentioned. A bomber green alien-sized piece will fit in the fingerlock. (I downclimbed to the ground where we bounce-tested the hell out of it!) This will be the only gear keeping you off the ground if you fall when doing the crux moves, so if you fall and it holds then the route is probably "s"; if it doesn't, then "vs." Once your feet are a few feet ... more >>
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