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Member Since: Sep 15, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 18, 2008
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Point Rank: # 1,210
Total Points: 184
Last Year: 6
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Brad Bond

 
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Contributions


All (90) | Routes (13) | Areas | Photos (1) | Comments (49) | Posts | Stars (21) | Ratings (6)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Let Them Eat Cake (FA)

5.11c/d R

Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Jun 14, 2003

Auntie Perspirant

5.8+ R

Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - Verschneidung ...

Nov 18, 2002

Super Power

5.11c/d

Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet

CO : Flatirons : ... : Dreadnaught

Aug 20, 2002

Off the List (FA)

5.10c

Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - S Buttress

Jun 18, 2002

The Everybody Route (FA)

5.10d

Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to...

May 28, 2002

Journey Through Mirkwood

5.11b/c

Trad, 2000 feet, Grade V

CO : Gunnison : ... : The Painted Wall

Mar 1, 2002

Cameron's Corner (FA)

5.11b

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 19, 2002

Uncle Chip (FA)

5.7

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 19, 2002

Facets (FA)

5.10c

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 12, 2002

V2 (FA)

5.10c R

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 11, 2002

Fistful of diamonds (FA)

5.9+

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Feb 10, 2002

The Killing Fields (FA)

5.10c R

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - Center Route & R

Oct 15, 2001

Kill all bad brown dogs (FA)

5.10a

Trad

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Diamond Head

Sep 15, 2001

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
North Face of Rock Point Spire. The route climbs the thin splitter on the summit block and traverses to the right shoulder. The variation climbs the left-facing corner (left of the splitter, catching shade) to the shoulder followed by cracks on the left skyline to the summit.

North Face of Rock Point Spire. The route climbs the thin splitter on the summit block and traverses to the right shoulder. The variation climbs the left-facing corner (left of the splitter, catching

AZ : Navajolands : ... : Rock Point Spire, N. Face (5.9 A3)

Apr 5, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Navajolands : Central Reservation Climbs : Rock Point Spire, N. Face (5.9 A3)
By: Brad Bond When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: Climbed this tower a few weeks ago at 5.9 C1. We did it in two pitches, but unintentionally (didn't read this first) added a variation. Instead of climbing the splitter on the summit block, I stepped left and climbed a left-facing corner to the left shoulder, then climbed cracks past a VERY loose block and 5.9 mantle to the summit(see photo). This variation isn't recommended, but I can't say I'd recommend the tower for it's quality of climbing alone(cool tower and setting, bad rock).

I know som... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Snake (Dogleg) Couloir (Steep Snow)
By: Brad Bond When: May 11, 2005

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Comments: Some people rappel off the summit into the couloir. I guess it would depend on the conditions. I downclimbed in my ski boots and it was pretty terrifying.

A lot of skiers stash a car as far as they can up Dallas Creek and approach from the Yankee Boy side, which is fewer miles of sloggin', but doesn't let you ascend the couloir first (which is usually a good idea).

A even more classic descent is the Trilogy. Ski the Snake until it doglegs, then boot over the cornice into the West Couloir. Sk... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11a/b)
By: Brad Bond When: Aug 2, 2004

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Comments: The pin protecting the first hard moves on the chimney pitch is gone! NOT the one in the flake to the right of the chimney, but the one below it, the one that caused a bunch of ruckus at an FHRC meeting a few years back. A # 2 and 3 RP is actually quite bomber and the #2 friend is just at your feet when making the hard moves, so it's not too bad and probably safer now that you're putting in good gear instead of trusting fixed rust. Anyone know what happened to it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 31, 2004

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Comments: I'm usually in favor of removing bolts if they are placed next to a handcrack, but I don't think this is the case with this route. I've only done this route 3 or 4 times, but is seemed that while there were a few bomber gear placements, others wouldn't be so bomber and the gear would be difficult to place, probably resulting in an "s" rating -- depending on which bolts were left. Sure, Steve D., myself and others would have put this route up differently, but we didn't.

As for Greaser and AC: Wh... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Giuoco Piano Direct (5.10b/c R)
By: Brad Bond When: Jun 1, 2004

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Comments: This route is pretty tough and scary for the grade given -- one of those "Eldo 10c's" that could be 11a and the "s" could be "vs," depending, of course, on if you fell and if all the nuts and tcu's you spent an hour tinkering in behind loose flakes and in chossy cracks actually held (OK placements, not so good rock). The crux is pretty commiting and reachy, but the holds get better and good gear comes just when you really need it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Silver Raven (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: May 19, 2004

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Comments: I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one lo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Erki Nool (WGA) (5.11d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: This route is a great addition to the wall -- fun moves with huge holds just when you need them. It's a good warm-up for Conan or Extreme; it's a little easier but gives you a good pump.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Conan (5.11c/d)
By: Brad Bond When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: Skip rope-soloed the first ascent of this route in the early '80s, freeing it onsight while using a solo system of tying and untying overhand knots as there were no fancy rope-soloing devices back in the day.

This route is a blast! From the anchor it's easy to toprope Extreme, which felt a touch harder than Conan and seemed like it would be scary to lead. These routes get great late-day sun in the winter and are worth the slog up the gully.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 21, 2003

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Comments: Wow, that's the worst beta I've ever given in my life! I meant to say three #4.5 Camalots. #4's are dead weight. Sorry about that...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: Three stars if combined with Pervertical and four if you start on the first pitch of Ariana. The traverse left off pitch three of Pervertical is very inobvious; I think it's just below the bolt and in the vicinity of 5.9 or 10a, but the climbing could easily become harder if you go the wrong way.

We brought gear to 3.5" and three #4 Camalots, which worked perfectly. Running pitch one and two (as described above) is tough, as I found myself heli-pumped at the top of the handcrac... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Pin Cushion (5.11c)
By: Brad Bond When: Jul 15, 2003

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Comments: I thought this was bolted really well, and a tad bit tough for 11a. I'd give it 11a/b.


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