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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Wandering Taoist (5.9)
By: Brad Allender When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding climb. Tons of fun. Most of the time, you get to trust your feet on nothing.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Pinnacles National Monument
By: Brad Allender When: Apr 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Backdoor:
Didn't climb enough here to add the area (wall), but it is next to the Monolith and below Tiburcio's X. Supposedly it has 3 approaches, but the approaches from below are iffy at best (if you can even find them). It seems like the best thing to do is rapel down from the trail that goes in front of Tiburcio's X to/from the reservoir.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop
By: Brad Allender When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Carville's guide calls this a "leisurely" approach. While not long or overly difficult, I think leisurely is a bit misleading.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : 90 Foot Wall : Casual Observer (5.1)
By: Brad Allender When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This fun chimney can be made pretty challenging (5.7?) by taking the column in the middle out. Use just the chimney walls and you'll find yourself in some interesting body positions. Can be top roped from the bolts for Strontium 90.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Road House Blues (5.10b)
By: Brad Allender When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. It was described as a featureless slab to the flake. The featureless slab was very tough, nothing there. The flake was fun and easy. Be aware on lead, you need to get up the flake a little to set some pro!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Jellyroll Arch (5.8)
By: Brad Allender When: Dec 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, lots of fun. If you are climbing with a group of 3, make sure the second climber clips all the pieces with the second rope. Otherwise, you could leave the third climber with a potential groundfall pendulum as he cleans.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Table Mountain : Senior Wall
By: Brad Allender When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is more like indoor climbing than any place I've been. The routes I did are all quite similar. Juggy, pumpy and sustained. My arms were toasted after a day here. Fun spot, not a lot of variety, but lots of good moderate sport routes. There are a lot more routes up than are listed currently (maybe 16 total).
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Grey Slab : Rust Never Sleeps (5.10a R)
By: Brad Allender When: Feb 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this climb for the first time in a couple years and it really seems to have been battered by the sea. The holds seem to have disappeared and some of the face is getting a little crumbly. Still a great climb, but harder and scarier that I remembered it!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Grey Slab : Unknown - Grey Slab (5.9 R)
By: Brad Allender When: Feb 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route only has a 2 bolt anchor at the top. A third would be nice since they are smaller older bolts. They look ok though.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Struggler Cliff : Knobby Wall (5.6)
By: Brad Allender When: Dec 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a clarification. I did not mean to rate this climb a "bomb." It is nothing spectacular, but worth doing if you are there. Its just a very short section of climbing. Nice for your very beginner friends though.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Greener Pastures (5.9)
By: Brad Allender When: Nov 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb with some great jam moves on it. The guide book Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe by Mike Carville shows bolts on this route. They are still there, but the hangers have been removed.The climb can be done safely as a trad lead.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Desire (5.9)
By: Brad Allender When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, lots of fun thin face moves. The first bolt is pretty high up there, and the crux is right off the ground.It is pretty far between the 2nd and 3rd bolt too, but there is a horizontal crack that can take a cam pretty nicely if you want the added comfort. It looks far from the last bolt to the anchors, but it is one move past the bolt then it eases off.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Insidious Crack (5.6)
By: Brad Allender When: Nov 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, lots of fun. The description on here is right on. The gear is pretty good the whole way, taking lots of 2" and smaller. The belay ledge is nice and easily protected, or the tree is fine too (although it is more of a big shrub than a tree, still, looks solid). Third class up to the top and hike off, although, it isn't the shortest hike back to the bottom of the climb. If you want to rappel, the climb is definitely 150', so you will need 2 ropes.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : Main Rock : Corner Route (5.10b)
By: Brad Allender When: Nov 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just for info, the main handhold at the crux just past the second bolt is really loose.Its been loose since i first climbed there 5 years ago, but this time it seemed to shift about half an inch to the left. Be careful.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Right Cheek (5.10a)
By: Brad Allender When: Oct 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this climb a little less rewarding than paul did, although it was a fun challenge to ignore every hold that looked good (case in point, the 2 really nice underclings just above me on the first picture of me taken by paul, don't touch em, they flex a half inch with the slightest pull). A note to belayers, wear a helmet and sunglasses, the debris falling off is pretty bad, and mostly small stuff and dust that winds up in you eyes with the larger piece mixed in to smack you in the head. Ac... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pigeon Tunnel (5.8)
By: Brad Allender When: Oct 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb looked pretty cool, but it is so dirty we decided it wasn't worth doing. The pidgeons definately own this one!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Yabba Dabba Dudes (5.10a R)
By: Brad Allender When: Oct 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, it made the hike in (which really wasn't that bad) worth it. It is very similar to Amazing Face in style of climb. Not quite as classic, but fun in the same way. Very footwork intensive. Sure would be nice if there were some bolts on top though!
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Castle Rock State Park : Goat Rock : Center Route (5.9)
By: Brad Allender When: Sep 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, but if Triple Overhang is 5.9, this seems more like 5.8 than 5.9.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Luther Spires : Widow Maker (5.10a)
By: Brad Allender When: Aug 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree that this climb is definately one of the best at Luther Spires. It has some outstanding moves on it that are just fun to do. Also solid for its grade. Well worth the walk to get to (even if you take the difficult path).
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Cragmont Park : Cragmont - Northeast Face : Beginners Crack (5.6)
By: Brad Allender When: Aug 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bay Area Rock by Jim Thonrburg calls this climb Cragmont Crack.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Luther Spires : Jane Spy (5.7)
By: Brad Allender When: Aug 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun climb and a great lead to get a feel for the area. The bolts are fairl far apart, but the climbing is straightforward with bolts where you need them and in really good stances.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Indian Springs : Lower Tier : RP 4 Me (5.9)
By: Brad Allender When: Jul 27, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, fun lead. Without the additional gear placement it would be pretty scary between bolts. The top is pretty slopey and mostly friction holds and balance moves. The route most likely goes more to the left, but if you go a little right of the anchor there are two really good handholds. They are nice to find, especially since it is a long way to the last bolt, but the cam placement in between is solid.
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