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Member Since: Oct 1, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 20, 2014
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Point Rank: # 8,550
Total Points: 31
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Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bracken been climbing?










Contributions


All 89 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts | Stars 53 | Ratings 21

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : K-2 (5.9)
By: Bracken When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: The worn carabiner on the left anchor is gone, so it was just a bolt with a trapped chainlink (that wouldn't take a typical carabiner, or let the rope be passed through).

We put a quick link on it.

> on Dec 1, 2009, Brian Hench said:
The left bolt of the belay anchor consists of an aluminum carabiner trapped in a chain link. Top ropers have worn a groove 2/3 of the way through this biner. There is no other way to use this bolt than to clip the worn biner. It is dangerous and shoul... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : Manx/Asteroid Belt Circuit : ... : Scuttlebutt (V0)
By: Bracken When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: Harder if you're short. All the taller people seemed to have no prob, while the shorter struggled to reach anything good after standing off the high foot.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall : Panty Prow (5.6)
By: Bracken When: Apr 26, 2011

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Comments: I'd say you want to be pretty darn comfortable at the grade before leading this one.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Dells/Watson Lake D... : Watson Lake : ... : Nick of Time (5.9)
By: Bracken When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: The four bolts protect the route well. The first bolt looks high, but you can get to it easily on the right. I'm 5'5" and every clip was a bit reachy from the stances I got.

Even wandering a wee bit to the easier climbing, it feels true to 5.9. Climbing directly over the bolts would put it at 9+/10a, in my opinion. (I did the former on lead and the latter on TR)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : C Sharp or B Flat (5.7)
By: Bracken When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: I'm a bit on the short side (5'5") and couldn't quite reach the 4th bolt from the good ledge. As my first lead (and climb at all) in a long while, it was definitely a bit exciting!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag (CLOSED) : Ledger Line (5.7)
By: Bracken When: Nov 23, 2010

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Comments: Agreed. This was my first day climbing in a long while, and I was a bit sketched getting to and then getting a good stance for the first bolt. It definitely eases up after that, and has some fun moves and cool features.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Double Down (5.10a)
By: Bracken When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wet Dreams (5.10a)
By: Bracken When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: About 8 bolts to its own 2 bolt anchor. Very closely bolted in the upper section. I lead this without knowing what it is and thought it was really enjoyable. In my opinion, it's underrated here on MP. Perhaps it being bolted has improved the line.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
By: Bracken When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: The trail starts just beyond the lower end of the guardrail for the pullout.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : Brirthday Boy (5.6)
By: Bracken When: Mar 2, 2009

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Comments: I'm with the other commenters on this one. Clean, fun, and takes gear nicely for the first 30 feet. After that, it's dirty, ledgy, and gear becomes a bit more challenging. A #2 Camalot was nice in the undercling near the top. I have to disagree that it's a good route for a beginner to learn on.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Rope de Dope Block
By: Bracken When: Oct 9, 2008

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Comments: Based on several resources and climbing there recently, I think the following is accurate:
Routes L -> R:
  • North Slab Crack 5.3
  • How low can you go? 5.6
  • Shamu 5.8
  • Immortal Beloved 5.8 (arete)
  • Low Blow 5.10b
  • Sleepy Town 5.10a
  • Float like a butterfly 5.10b
  • Rope-de-Dope crack 5.8
  • Morgantown 5.10b
  • Sting like a bee 5.10b/c
  • Amazing gliders 5.8
  • Mini Bender 5.9