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Member Since: Apr 1, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 4, 2013
Contact boulderkeith


Point Rank: # 6,550
Total Points: 43
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Contributions


All (312) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos | Comments (33) | Posts (7) | Stars (154) | Ratings (117)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag
By: boulderkeith When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: An 8 year old comment about rock quality? Anybody been up there to update mp on rock quality issues?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress
By: boulderkeith When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: Anybody know the story on the rockfall closure? Still closed as of 07/26/2013. Seems like it has been closed for a bit with no additional info.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Left (5.8)
By: boulderkeith When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Still a lot of loose flakes. Not a good lead probably if this is your top grade.

Gear beta: a small tricam might fit great in the pocket before the traverse (I only had an orange Alien which is a bad squeeze).


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Nightime Madness (5.7)
By: boulderkeith When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: When is mountainproject going to become more wikiable? I could write a better description of P3 and P4 in a few minutes than what is above.

P1: Climb solid jams through the steep bottom moves. At the sloping ledge halfway up the pitch either traverse left ~8' for a wider 5.7 crack with lots of face holds or head straight up for 5.8 hands. Both are recommended. If you choose the left crack, protect high in the crack with a long sling for your second and belay to the right at the base of the P2 ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Gobble Up (5.8)
By: boulderkeith When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Echoing Christina: solid for my big hands and feet ~5.8+, off-foot horror for my female follower. She did not enjoy it.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a) : Photo
By: boulderkeith When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic photo!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Dune (5.10a)
By: boulderkeith When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt is probably a touch more than 15'. The holds near this bolt are quite polished. Upper portion of the route is pretty fun. Probably a bad lead for the 10- leader.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Beach Ball (5.8)
By: boulderkeith When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Fun. Only a couple crack moves. More 5.9 IMO. Good warmup route.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a)
By: boulderkeith When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Worst of sport. Contrived, narrow, requires you to ignore large, obvious, natural features. You can climb the left crack and clip the left or right to a line of bolts (long arms and draws required). You can climb the right crack and clip left. Neither is 10a. Or if you really insist, you can stay out of the obvious cracks and climb a slabby route up the middle. Dog food. Climb something else.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Fly on a Windshield (5.10a)
By: boulderkeith When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: I haven't been here in years but my recollection is not that it is 40'. Are there new bolts not at the top of the dome?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (5.8 R)
By: boulderkeith When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Fyi, if you are considering Better Than Bikinis (not in Mountain Project but adjacent to Western Grebe), there are still wasps in the pin scars in the dihedral as of ~09/23/2012.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (5.8 R)
By: boulderkeith When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: I did this route about a week ago while visiting. We rapped from the P3 anchors with a single 60m directly down. (did not do P4 due to the single rope). It was sketchy to say the least as you had to reach down to clip the anchor and then rap off the ends (while hanging onto them so you don't lose the rope). Rapping with a single 60m thus is not recommended despite the T.C. guidebook indicating all raps less than 100'. Got to think that rap station could have been 2m higher...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Eichorn's Pinnacle : North Face (5.4)
By: boulderkeith When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: I agree with Chris. The setting is fantastic, the climbing is steep for the grade, the pro looks absent but is 100% there.

If you are doing this with an inexperienced or less confident partner, you might try this setup:
Move towards the route from the traverse from Cathedral.
Set a belay at the beginning of the hand traverse. There is a good body pod as well as a crack for ~0.75" or 1" cams.
Lead out the hand travserse (5.0 but very exposed) to either the crack below the aplite band (harder... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Tenaya Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.3)
By: boulderkeith When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: The route definitely contains some 5th class slab on the upper portion of the route. The lower portion has a lot of 4th class. Definitely do the 5.7 finish. Straightforward and fun. We did the ledge traverse in the trees descent. It was pretty good at the top but either we missed the best point to turn downhill or it is not so great at the end. I would consider descending all the way down the ridge to the trail around Tenaya Lake if I do the route again. We had the gearloop topo. It was n... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Bushwhack Crack (5.8)
By: boulderkeith When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: See Guideline #1.

My comment was intended for the benefit of a visiting climber with limited time choosing a few routes to do. If you only have time for one route at Gates Buttress, I'd recommend Beckeys Wall over Bushwhack Crack.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Bushwhack Crack (5.8)
By: boulderkeith When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: While the first pitch (less than 100') is pretty good, to me this route lacks the length to be classic. The 2nd pitch is pretty marginal. The TR crowd has polished the bottom of the crack. Slippery isn't usual the desired characteristic of a really aesthetic climb. Sure, it is worth doing if you are there. But classic? Eh.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: boulderkeith When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Great route. We did it as 4 pitches to facilitate communication. Each pitch has a little something for you. The last pitch is great. For the descent, look for the larger juniper tree with the obvious foot traffic into the gully. I saw another party downclimb early (looked ok but not great). They surfed a lot of talus. It would be great if someone rap bolted the slab behind the remnants of the sea sign. Definitely less eco damage than the foot traffic down the talus and safer too.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Upper Exum Ridge (5.5)
By: boulderkeith When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: Caleb,

It's not grade II. It's silly that it is indicated as such and the page owner should change it. Yes, the fast and the light can crank it out the approach from the saddle, the route, and the descent pretty quick but for most people that will be 5 to 10 hrs. It took us about 6 hrs from the saddle to the summit and back to the saddle and we simuled about a third of the route.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock : Motorboat (5.9)
By: boulderkeith When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: It's been a decade and a half but I remember this route as very strenuous for the grade.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Thunderbolt Peak : Palisade Traverse (5.9 Mod. Snow)
By: boulderkeith When: May 11, 2010

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Comments: I'd suggest this page be deleted. It serves no purpose given the more accurately cross-referenced page.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : This Ain't Naturita, Pilgri... (5.9)
By: boulderkeith When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: Easier if you are taller than 6'2" or so. You can reach over some difficult moves. You don't have to take gear, but you there is ground fall potential between bolts #1 and #2. Gear might mitigate but the climbing isn't cruxy. You could take a #2 Camalot or so for a crack near the very top, but I don't think you need it.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Alice in Banana Land (5.10-)
By: boulderkeith When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: Alice In Bucketland does climb the face 30' left of Malice in Bucketland but begins from the ground and around the corner from Malice.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Central Wall : Sea of Holes (5.10 R)
By: boulderkeith When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: Disagree with the comments describing this route as 5.7. Yes, Hueco ratings are softish but seriously, you think this is the same difficulty as Uriah's Heap?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Wailing Sax (5.9)
By: boulderkeith When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: Wailing Sax Wall is a nice little wall to TR on to round out a day if you are staying at Sheeps Pass CG. Not a good choice if you aren't camping there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Room To Shroom Area : Room To Shroom (5.9)
By: boulderkeith When: Apr 6, 2010

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Comments: I'm not sure about these comments about protecting the traverse. Ken led it and placed a tipped out black alien. I don't think you are going to get good pro. The traverse is easier than it looks anyways.


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