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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Closet Lycra (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: BURLY! I could name a few slabs at 11a/b that feel quite a bit easier than this one... There might not be any individual move harder than 10d but from the time you leave the ground to the time you clip the 3rd bolt the climbing is hard and very sustained. Sticking the whole sequence on lead requires a lot of things to go according to plan, which makes it a lot more satisfying that bagging some one move wonder.
Watch the bottom which is getting quite polished and get a solid spot if you eschew t... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Coyote Corner (5.8)
By: Boissal When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome line, perfect to end the day of just cruise up something mellow. I don't know which part of it could be described as a chimney though...
You can belay off the anchors of the face to the right if you don't protect the last bit.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Who's On First (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, this is the left bolt line, closest to the Great Chokestone. There's a nice squeeze job to the right of it that might confuse you since you can touch 2 of its bolts from the crux of Who's On First.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Who's On First (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The optional finish brings a change of pace with another 60 or so feet of serious climbing protected by 2 more bolts (only 1 drawn on topo) and gear on flaky rock. 1 star vs. 3 stars for the bottom half.
Instead of traversing to the belay after bolt 4 step left on top of a detached block and clip a bolt. This deposits you on a gritty steep slab and marks decision making time: clip the 6th bolt and shoot straight up toward a couple of chicken heads heading for a grassy horizontal seam (super bur... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Gimme Danger (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is pretty stout, lots of insecure lieback moves on the gritty slab with few rest opportunities. Bring a healthy supply of small gear and strong language. Make sure you traverse left next to Valentine at the top or you'll kick large choss pieces down.
The second pitch is one of 3 candidates for greatest lieback crack in the Wasatch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Lunar Tick (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Meh. This would be an awesome line if it had a start and a finish. Unfortunately sticking to the bolt line is way contrived and plain hard. Getting out of the groove right at the first bolt and climbing edges to a brushy crack seemed like a good way to go, you can then traverse on the slab above the 2nd bolt and enjoy 4 bolts worth of crisp edges and slab moves. Unfortunately the finish forces you into another chossy crack unless you work really hard to stay on the face.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Dragon Arch (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: And here I was ready to give it 3 stars...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Cool Your Jets (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun strenuous line with a bunch of unlikely moves. The final mantle might force you to resort to some kind of treachery when pumped.
The bolts look way crusty. Bring a brush, erase your tickmarks.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Kings of Cribbage (5.8)
By: Boissal When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun slightly gritty slabbing leads to some downright frightful rock. Small nuts help up high, or cams smaller than 1/2". The moves to the anchors felt stout and sketchy for the grades. Long slings on everything or you'll end up pulling hard on that rope.
Check out the anchor 10' down and left, it's quite the sight.
Any info on the bolted line through the roof?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Mezzanine (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you sling the tree, sling long and clip the 1st bolt long otherwise rope drag will kill you. Expect some grit, some grunge, and some fun off balance moves.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Inertia Creeps (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st half was fun but turning the lip and entering the choss realm on the last bit was disappointing. I didn't place any gear or feel the need to on this one. Good warmup for the 11.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Certain Death (5.8+)
By: Boissal When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stem box above the OW section has some wild wild moves. From the base it looks like the cracks will take gear but they're so filled with bushes you're better off staying out of them. No matter which side you go in expect large amounts of grunting and a bunch of lost skin.
5.8++
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall
By: Boissal When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny how these things work... Done (not by me!!) and the chokestone came out, apparently with a minor nudge.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: James will you stop being such a dong? There are 100s of quality lines to get after and this is the reason peeps are not "flocking" to your future classic. Chasing FAs is not everyone's thing man. Offer a damn 6 pack already, maybe it will lure someone there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Crown of Thorns (5.12c)
By: Boissal When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st bolt (crux) isn't exactly inspiring.
Hard to read is a major understatement, that things is ridiculously hard.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Strewn Masters of Hore (5.12+)
By: Boissal When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's up with recycling names here? Both of your new routes are 1 letter off...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Prepositional Phrase (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of gardening help uncover a nice thin crack hidden underneath the vegetation. A micro and maybe a BD #1 can be used to get to the first bolt safely. The crux follows, featuring stupid-hard slabbing. Bring your A-game or watch your shins when you fall past the corner. More exciting moves await until you clip the 3rd bolt, after which the climbing eases a bit. The upper slab is beautiful with thin edges peppered left and right and nicely spaced bolts. 120' of quality climbing.
Ten, I t... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor bolts on top of P1 replaced on 10/23/09 by Mike White (ASCA). The right bolt, which seemed like the solid one, came out with one minor tug. Scary.
The 2nd pitch is beautiful and really exciting.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No rope, no harness, lots of balls?!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly chossy for such a classic with a number of loose holds that are on their way out... Starting in the corner seems silly when there are plenty of holds on the face. The crux features sharp crimps, polished feet and long reaches.
Anchors, upper 2 bolts and 3rd hanger replaced on 10/23/09, the rest of them are sound. Whip away!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Stranger Than Friction (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burly moves right off the start then thin face climbing on manky old bolts. What's not to love?
Bring a saw if you want to try the 11d neighbor, Surprise Beginning.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : This Is Almost the Place (5.11d)
By: Boissal When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How do you start this? Scary runout face moves above a flatish boulder into the thin vertical cracks or do you go a bit further up in the gully an gain the main part of the crack by following a left slanting ramp?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Gallant Wall : Scandinavian Tuna (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: R in its current state. Lots of opportunities to break a hold and beef it. If it happens before reaching the 1st pin you're in the trees. If it happens before the bolt you might keep your ankles. If it happens on the way to the 2nd pin you'd better kick as hard as you can, that way you'd avoid tapping the ledges at the base and end up somewhere in more trees.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Gallant Wall : Presiding Nymph (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A selection of no nuts and cams from BD .4 to 3 with doubles on #2 and #3 would be more appropriate. It's a handcrack after all... Tape useful.
Helmet for the belayer who will get doused by a shower of choss.
The rap tree is dead, the massive pine tree 20' back on the ledge will force your ropes in a slot and get them stuck, rap off a small solid pine to the right. Beware of the huge dead pine and large pieces of choss ready to be dislodged when you pull the rope.
As grungy as it loo... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Flakes (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve, a single set from BD .5 to 3 and a 5 or old 4.5 is all you need. Don't haul doubles up there, there are no good stances to place in the undercling/lieback sections. It's a place and punch it for a while type of line.
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