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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 350
Total Points: 1,637
Last Year: 196
Last 30 Days: 5
124 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2449 | Routes 55 | Areas 3 | Photos 104 | Page Improvements | Comments 522 | Posts 473 | Stars 682 | Ratings 610
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Round Room (V6)
By: Boissal When: 4 days ago

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Comments: +1 on height-dependent difficulty. Watching tall people run laps on this like it's V3 is depressing when you can get within 2mm of the only hold on the problem but not snag it. V6 seems unlikely if you're 5' tall, there just isn't anything to grab...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: You are one inarticulate idiot aren't you... Here, use the word epitome one more time, you might fool someone into believing you have something to say.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Canopy : Donkey Kong Country (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The rain drove us away...


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Aces High Tower : Feelio's Lament (5.8 X)
By: Boissal When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Sounds appealing! Good job not dying!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Flying Raptor's Area : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: I'm having a hard time picturing the location of this, can you see the end of the Upper Canopy on the right of the picture in the notch?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of mana... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I think we may need photo finish on that one as it saw another potential FA that day! Not sure who got to it first?
Strong work regardless, it's a tough line. I'm glad she rated it 11d, I thought that was spot on but team sandbag thought it was much easier :)


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Planet of the Apes : To Hell With The Scarecrows (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nest of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Your caption is correct. From L to R you have Sunrise aka O'Sullivan and Dromedary which frame the entrance of Tanners (the major funnel). The next "peak" in the center probably has a name but I'm not aware of it. It sits at the head of Mill B at the top of the ridge which starts at the Sundial. Same story with the 2 or 3 sub-peak on the right, I'm sure they're named. The very last one on the right with the steep shaded face is Monte Cristo, or technically the true summit of Superior.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Black Sails (5.12b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route, techy and hard to read down low (11c ish) to a full rest into a bouldery section (scary clip with potential to tap the slab) followed by hero jug pulling to the top.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - South : Walk the Plank (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Beware of the big flake right before getting to the roof section at the top. It's very detached and would be easy to pull off, especially when coming out of the thin section below and reaching for it as an obvious jug. Stick to the bottom part which feels more solid.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: Boissal When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: The flake sports a huge X now. It does feel alarmingly hollow but really isn't needed. The crimp rail at the base of it is nice and also sounds like shit, skipping it makes the finish a bit more challenging. It's hard not to stick on foot somewhere on the looseness to clip the chains.
It this thing comes off it won't kill your belayer who's conveniently tucked away in the cave. Your dog however...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 6, 2014

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Comments: Wait, which restrictions have been put on climbing in Arches due to the BASE/slacklining community? Last time I checked the reinforcement of the anchor ban resulted directly from the actions of a climber and pre-dated the explosion of slacklining, arch swinging, and other related shenanigans.

The Fishers are a shared resource. It unfortunately means that base jumpers, slack liners, climber and gawkers alike get to run around doing whatever the hell they want. At some point mountain bikers will ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra
By: Boissal When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: What happens when you pull a full pitch worth of angles and spill your brains Jeremy? Is it any less likely than a base jumper dying? A4 nailing in mud is safe now? Hypocritical bullshit. At least you recognize that the impact of thousands of free ascents and subsequent raps off the summit may be as much a contributor as a few slack lines.

The Cobra was bound to fall off. Whether a user group accelerated the time-line is completely unmeasurable. Get off your high horses. Nature fucking happens... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Actually I just checked the book and The Boiler is listed as aka Bitch so your info is correct. I'll post a topo picture next time I go...


Here's my attempt at reconciling your info with the latest James Garrett guidebook:

11c - Name unknown. This is the most up canyon route on the road side. In 2009, there was a sling on this route
--> This may be Reloaded 11a already posted here and/or a route JG has as 11d - Pee-wee's Playhouse I know there are two ways to do it a... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Your Substrate Makes My Lav... (5.9) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: I'll bring you some dogbones next time I come down!


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Bitch (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: The description makes it sound suspiciously like The Boiler (per James Garret's latest guidebook). Or is this between the Boiler and Black Sails?
The Boiler climbs a right trending dihedral then rolls onto a "slab" with difficult finger slot moves. Burly for 12a, I think the crux is solid at the grade and it comes after a fairly relentless jaunt up the dihedral. I replaced a couple dogbones which were looking alarmingly crisp.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Plate Tectonics (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Actually it didn't go ground up, but not for lack of trying! I just couldn't pull the roof, too many large detached blocks and too many questionable micro stoppers in a row. The size of the stuff I yanked out of the roof and lower dihedral still freaks me out. The downclimb and traverse to Lichen Soup is forever banned from my memory. As usual though, each loose block claimed by gravity yields a hand hold and a solid placement. No more nests of mini nuts in bad rock!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Use long runners on the last 2 bolts of the 1st pitch (6 and 7 I believe) and go for the linkup! The traverse is a bit intimidating but the bolting is super safe. Expect to clip at your waist as the best holds are pretty high up. Do your best to catch a rest after the rightward shuffle as the crux requires some hard pulling and very sequential climbing not suitable for pumped forearms.

We cleaned a lot of blocks of the right arete and sent down a massive column (I could barely slide the smaller... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Man-Chimpster United (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Reasonably hard on TR, this looked like a serious proposition on gear. The crack never opens up enough for finger locks but looks like it would gobble small nuts (ha!). Proud send by Roy!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Assegai (5.11b)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Another funky Jungle gem, this one looks like it's never been climbed until you notice a few scrubbed moss-free edges. The climbing is consistently engaging and technical with a few unlikely crossover moves and the potential for hilarious barn-door falls. Excellent!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Jabu and The Lion. (5.11b/c)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Spectacular arete climbing with way more exposure than the height of the route warrants! You might get frustrated at the lichen which re-invaded the crux sloping hold. Give this one a little wire-brush love on the way down.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : The Dark Continent Area : Rhodesian Ridgeback (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: As Zac stated, the crux is very beta intensive. I also found it to be brick hard with a big pull off the 2 smallest holds in the Jungle. Growing a few inches and shedding a dozen pounds would have helped...
I might have been way off my game on this line but it felt like 11d++. The art of sandbagging is alive and well in Suggettville!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Van Cott : University Bouldering : Sprawl (V3)
By: Boissal When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: FA by you? I hope it was back in 1961 otherwise I think your claim may be invalid. I bouldered up there 10 years ago and climbed all over these sharp piles. By my count, and I admit it may be approximate, I grabbed the 371st ascent...
I believe the problem is actually called "Delusions of Novelty" and its neighbors "You Ain't First" and "Quit Existing in a Vacuum".

Fun choss, a bit sharp, reminiscent of the Reef. There's a lot of it by Black Mountain too if you're looking for not-first... more >>


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