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Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Photo
By: Boissal When: 13 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: It's choss. All choss. As far as the eye can see.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Cool Your Jets (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Unless it's been rebolted, the bolts aren't glue-ins. The hangers are glued to the rock. Big difference.
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Location: UT : Ibex
By: Boissal When: May 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never touched a V7 and I've spent over a week bouldering at Ibex, having a blast the whole time. Maybe walk past the Red Monster?
Tenesmus' comment was tongue in cheek. Finding choss at Ibex isn't that easy. As far as disagreeing with comments, I guess I'm gonna need to apply for a permit...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Nuptial Vow (5.8)
By: Boissal When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This turned out to be a really fun romp when done FA-style without the bolts. I placed a number of bomber micro-cams up high and placements abound if you stray a bit off the bolt line and use long runners. The gear down low is slightly less inspiring but there are some good options. I think a #1 can be used up high but a rack of microcams up to a .5 is sufficient.
Still worth a PG and probably not for the 5.8 leader.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Proper : Lipstick on a Pig (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben is going to accuse me of being the source of all grade creep but I think the 11+ rating is a tad optimistic. The boulder problem is short but HARD, much harder than the crux of Fishlips and probably Fuego. I can only think of one other 11 in the canyon that might compare and I think that one is a fair 12a.
Regardless of the rating, the route is really fun. Expect a few powerful big moves with bad feet and really funky ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Proper : Faultline Variation (5.9)
By: Boissal When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a candidate for hardest 5.9 in Ferguson. The steep section where the crack pinches is intimidating and forces you into a funky layback move. Once you dive back in the crack, expect your helmet to get stuck in the chimney as mentioned above. Pop back out on the face to the left and mantle or squeeeeeeeeeeeeze!
The #4 and doubles from #3 down to .75 would be nice if you do it in one pitch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Broken Serenity (5.9)
By: Boissal When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your typical Ferguson devious face with bulges and sloppy crimps. Way stout for 5.9 and although I was following it seems like the gear would be sparse and thin...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Goldenfingers Wall : Goldbagger (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can get a couple of shaky micro cams in the cracks above the lone bolt, I think red and green C3s worked. Micronuts placements aren't obvious but with some tinkering you will get by.
Sticking inside the chimney for the first couple moves would save you from a nasty fall. There is still one move to clip the bolt that I would suggest not blowing...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : Hot Karl Sunday (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tyrel: it would be 11c in Maple and probably 5.7 in JTree or Yosemite. Also, keep in mind that nobody gives two fucks about your glory years climbing in PA... I'm glad you feel like downgrading makes your dick seem bigger but if all you're doing with it is stick up your own ass you're not gaining much. Keep being a tool bro!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Riptide Wall : Astroprojection (5.11d)
By: Boissal When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since recently or since always? They sure look skinny and manky but I never really had any qualms with whipping on them...
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Life Without Sex (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure why the guidebook describes it as a line of minimal interest. Maybe the low angle easy slab that makes the second third of the route and breaks the continuity? Either way, the lower bulge is funky and powerful and the upper slab is thin and techy with a friction finish. The homemade hanger on the 3rd bolt is worth a look...
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Flesh for Fantasy (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 for Ben's comment about the bottom. You can skip the left-trending easy "chimney" by climbing bulgy easy terrain then step across the gap to a thin crack that fades out about 8' below the ledge where the bolted face starts. Small nuts and cams up to a .5 protect this start adequately.
The patina is great with one stopped move followed by a bit of thin climbing with bad feet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Gimme Danger (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bordering 10+/11- puts it anywhere from 10c to 11b. Make up your mind or go with 10e.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Wall
By: Boissal When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2-3 qualifies as several. You guys don't walk in Maine? Or use guidebooks and incredibly obvious features to locate crags?
HALT THE PRESSES, REPRINT MP.COM
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Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Adrenaline Junkies (5.11)
By: Boissal When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks James! I thought the line was really enjoyable and while making moves high above "exotic" pro is usually a bit unnerving, I like seeing what kind of weird stuff you've used this time around...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: Boissal When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: He called your dick small on the internet. I'd fly off the handle and shit bricks if I were you. Oh wait, you already did. Nevermind...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Squaw Peak : Squawstruck (5.11-) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your mom is back-clipped. For future reference, try to NOT troll so weakly...
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Location: UT : Ibex : Photo
By: Boissal When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're more likely to see them on the Shoreline trail in SLC than at Ibex...
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Location: UT : Ibex : Corral Crags : Ewe For Real Wall : Ewe Betch Ewe (5.12a)
By: Boissal When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I remember traversing a ways left to the anchors of the 11.
Re: the book, I think in some cases the lines on the topos are drawn approximately but when coupled with the description things make sense. There are a number of instances of known sandbags that were left as is (can get annoying when you're talking a full number grade) and sometimes the gear recommendation is off but otherwise things are much better than the 1st edition (for Ibex).
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : The Death Scream Area (aka ... : O Face (V5) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic.
One doesn't see the word ovular thrown around to describe huecos all that often...
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Location: UT : Triassic : Photo
By: Boissal When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: See The Ugly.
It's deep in the Land of the 1000s, a few minutes up the wash past Golden, pretty obvious boulder perched on a layer of solidified mud. I think the boulder might be named but I can't remember. It has at least 3 problems of increasing difficulty (the Good, the Bad, the Ugly).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Santaquin Canyon : Santaquin Canyon Ice : Backoff (WI4) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You need to put down the HDR crack pipe...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Tiers : Total Ramon (5.11c PG13)
By: Boissal When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those concerned about falling before the 1st bolt on this, I wouldn't worry. The SLCA belay platform works wonder if you, ahem, get distracted and decide to pitch off. Aim for your rope bag for maximum cushioning.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Self Service : Self Service (V5) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's trolling? Standards are slipping...
The only way this could be more of a dab would involve shirtless bro being used as a stool.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Righteous indignation: still burning white hot after 3 years and 4 months.
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