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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Boissal

Point Rank: # 383
Total Points: 1,818
Last Year: 86
Last 30 Days: 46
148 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 2834 | Routes 59 | Areas 3 | Photos 120 | Page Improvements | Comments 583 | Posts 528 | Stars 810 | Ratings 731
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : The Kind (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: 6 days ago

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Comments: You could probably get by with a 40m rope, barely passed the middle mark of a 70m when starting from the platform.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Hook, Line and Sinker (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: You two punters need to stop getting fat and get back to climbing choss.
James, what you can possibly have against the raps? The old bolts are fine and the new anchor (which is protected, easy to spot and convenient to pull from) eliminates the semi-sketchy downclimb. Getting off with a 70m is a breeze... As the Lord Of Rappelling I thought you'd be pleased :)
The route isn't the Fin Arete or the Dorsal but it's long, sustained, super f... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : Hook, Line and Sinker (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: . P1 is more on the 10a side of things, the first few moves are insecure and STOUT! The water trough above the steep start is a very unique feature.
. P2 is excellent slabbing with sporty moves to reach the chickenheads. The anchor is right of a wide crack and left of a much wider cleft. Almost 3 stars.
. The top of P3 is marked by a large boulder precariously perched on a ledge. The downward shuffle starts behind the boulder.
. Of note for P4, the anchor is directly left of the last bolt (as in... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall : Burnt Cheese (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Easy to link with the 1st pitch for another "super-route". The anchors and the bolt under the roof need extension, the whole thing takes about 20ish draws.
Quite a bit of looseness at the top and the last clip made me laugh.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area : Watermelon Tetris (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: Great route with fun tricky moves on rock that keeps improving the higher you get. Lots of low juggy feet to offset some pretty thin hand holds. A much needed warm-up for the area and it felt very well protected.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Challenge Area : Eternal Flow (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: An excellent addition to the crag, very much in line with the style of climbing up there, one of my favorite new routes to go up in BCC in some time!
P1 is thin and tricky with a lot of small edges, there's still a bit of dirt and moss around but the amount of cleaning that went into the route is obvious on that pitch (and the ledge). Nice work keeping the bolts spaced out, appropriately old school!
P2 has immaculate rock and awesome movement, solid edges keep appearing whene... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : Warrior Without a Cause (5.12b) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Yeah WTF is going on with the 5' chain?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: Boissal When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: James, whatever you do, please do not put any more effort into making this route (or the Castle) any more rappel-friendly. I was up there Monday and watched a couple of parties rappel on top of a climber who was picking his way through the choss ledge. They dislodged a few small things which bounced around him and could have caused trouble. Then someone's rope pulled a basketball-sized rock which sailed about 15' away from the dude's he... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Practice Cliffs
By: Boissal When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: You probably left the crack dripping wet with spray...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Boissal When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: Wasatch Blvd to 4280S / Oakview Drive, right on Jupiter Dr, left on Adonis Dr, right on Thousand Oaks Dr to the end of the road (traffic circle with a gate), up the wooden stairs, stay on the trail through both switchbacks (don't go straight at the 2nd one), the trail dies down in a rocky gully which you follow to the base of the slabs. 45 min to an hour. No camping, it's all steep brush over there.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Moosehorn : ERM Wall : The Lost Piton (5.9)
By: Boissal When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: There's a large loose block halfway up the crack that is ready to brain your belayer. Tread carefully. Pretty vile choss on the upper half.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Twilight Buttress : Sunset Arete (5.10b) : Photo
By: Boissal When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Excellent shot! Those boat anchor chains are a bit unsightly though...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Old Peculier (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: I guess the UT admin doesn't climb any longer but he sure patrols the e-choss. I'm a giant taint... How was that beta? There are 3 features on the whole route and I basically said you had to climb all 3. I doubt you'll see a line at the base this summer because of it
Foot is fine although it really doesn't like the 3rd feature on this line. More of an ankle problem really. Jungle should be happening.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Old Peculier (5.11-)
By: Boissal When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: This thing is pissed! {rest edited}


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Lisa's Shoulder (5.9 R)
By: Boissal When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The upper face protects very well, probably R without all the modern trinkets. The direct start in the dihedral is probably the only PG section with a move to get established below the crack.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Fool's Paradise (5.10-)
By: Boissal When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments:
Craig Martin wrote:
You still need 2 ropes to rap from the top of the 3rd pitch of Western Grebe. This new anchor changes nothing in that regard.

Now goes with a single 70m via a few new anchors...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (5.8 R)
By: Boissal When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: P4 is definitely worthy if you find yourself tired of slabbing. It goes all natural with a bit of faith. Don't let the grass growing in a couple spots in the crack deter you!


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Hackberry Wash Wall : Who Knows What It's Called (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Excellent line, sustained and engaging the whole way. Probably 3.5 stars, so far my favorite edging fest in Snow (better than the stuff on the Aftershock wall).
I think the climbing through first three bolts warrants 11b. It's all about long moves on very thin holds and none of that sweet patina to crimp on, only sandy sloppy crimps and bad feet. Things ease up quite a bit in the upper half but the climbing remains through provoking all the way. The 9th (last) bolt (didn't see a fixed pin) and ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Tower Of Babel : Fuego (5.12a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Sweet shot! Heinous move if you're short.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 23, 2015

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Comments: You must be so strong...
I've always thought it was more like 7+.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Viet Cong Corner (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Bring a can of gasoline and lighter for the approach. +1 on pulling hard for the start, once you get in the jams things ease up but the first greasy fingerlock is a bit of a tough wake-up call. Excellent climbing above, too bad it isn't longer. Looks like the area saw some pretty massive rockfall over the winter.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Banshee Wall : Happy House (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: And now you downgrade my project... Great!
New route looks good, I liked the serrated look of that flake when I saw it.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Banshee Wall : Happy House (5.10+)
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Damn it Andy!! Why didn't you put the anchors 5' up and left??
Did you TR the orange seam?


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Waste and leg loops uh...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Back of Beyond : East Face Slab : Moss Lords of the Wasatch (5.7)
By: Boissal When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: BAH! Excellent! So much more satisfying than climbing a freshly mowed moss freeway, as in this eyesore of a route...


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