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Member Since: Aug 21, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Boissal

Point Rank: # 360
Total Points: 1,668
Last Year: 201
Last 30 Days: 8
136 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Boissal been climbing?










Contributions


All 2590 | Routes 55 | Areas 3 | Photos 107 | Page Improvements | Comments 538 | Posts 510 | Stars 725 | Ratings 652
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Underworld : Armed and Dangerous (5.10b/c)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Triples on #2s and #3s with two #4s would work, I'm sure you could find a spot to mash a #5 and feel really good about it. Again, your mileage may vary...


Location: UT : Saint George : Underworld : Armed Robbery (5.10c)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Super sandbag at 10c. The opening moves are as least 11a, the rest is sustained and technical with a lot of thin hand sections and not that many places to stop and shake out. Triple or even quadruples on fat fingers to hand sizes wouldn't go unused for the OS attempt...


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Circus Wall : Cloudwalker (5.10a)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Pitch 1 is a full 60m rope, 210' or so. I'd have been really bummed with only medium to large gear on thgis pitch. Small nut/cam placements abound and a full set to a BD #5 wouldn't go unused. The climbing is easy but the hollow nature of the rock and spaced out gear keeps you on your toes. I wouldn't recommend this one to a budding 5.8 leader.
We linked P2 and P3 with a bit of simul climbing on a 60m. A 70m would probably work without the 2nd leaving the anchor. Bring tons of draws and ru... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Aftershock Wall : Legends Never Die (5.11+)
By: Boissal When: 2 days ago

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Comments: What a spectacular line! It's sustained and well bolted with varied climbing and awesome exposure. If the trad pitch and walk-off on Aftershock scares you this is a great alternative.

Pitch 1 is way hard (11+/d seems accurate) with some of the slickest feet I've ever had to smear on. The sequence is fairly obvious but very technical with lots of balancy moves and weird body tension. The pump eventually builds up from the lack of feet and pitching of the last mantle is a real possibility. The "... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall
By: Boissal When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: One suggestion would be to keep quiet about the new bolts. Superfluous hardware has a habit of vanishing from these easily protectable lines...
I don't think "clipped" means what you think it means.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Rumba (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: May 16, 2015

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Comments: SPAM! Advertising your guidebooks on a free beta website without mentioning your vested interests? Nice one...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Heaven's Gate (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Boissal When: May 16, 2015

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Comments: SPAM! After leaving Rakkup stickers on all the cars at the Gate you're coming HERE to promote YOUR e-guidebook? How about disclosing your financial interests in this, along with a disclaimer about the profound bias in your opinion...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook (5.8 R)
By: Boissal When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: The bolt is technically not part of the route which gives you an even better reason not to clip it and be as badass as Beckey/Kor...


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Wall : Renegade (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Traversing the hollow undercling from the right adds some excitement to the start. The moves popping out of this hold are great!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : White Wall : Pale Face (5.11b PG13)
By: Boissal When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: The start isn't too bad even without pre-clipping the 1st bolt. It's one really thin move to gain an edge below the undercling which puts you withing reach of the clip. The crux is very sequential with pretty long reaches and bad feet.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Beef Jello : Beef Jello (5.10d)
By: Boissal When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: I'd say the 10d rating is definitely for the direct start, flaring off-fingers with no feet. Tape is a good idea on this one, it doesn't see much traffic and between the lichen and the sharp nature of the rock your mitts may get shredded.


Location: Brian in SLC : Little Cottonwood Pictures : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: And it's conveniently sized so as to leave the name of the installer exposed. Fucking spray lord.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Westwind Buttress : Check the Technique (5.10-) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: HOW DID YOU GET THE ROPE UP THERE???!! IS THIS ZE DAWN WALL!?? IT'S NOT FREE CLIMBING IF YOU USE A ROPE!!
Seriously dude?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Asbury Park : ... : Pocket Loverboy (5.11c)
By: Boissal When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: The mysterious feature is rather painful and can be avoided once the right feet have been found. Big moves on great rock, stick clipping the 1st bolt may be advisable as the very first bit it kind of friable.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom : Ramp Routes : Interstellar (5.10b)
By: Boissal When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: There seems to be a new bolt for a more direct start instead of clipping the bolt which is shared with the 5.9/7 to the right. I used a decent .5 getting there.


Location: UT : Grand Staircase : Big Water Area : Mollie Goes Dustin (5.6 A2) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Nice Jungle-sized chunk!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : Fungus (V5)
By: Boissal When: Oct 24, 2014

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Comments: Much harder than SR which is all about stretching to a jug. Fungus is a relatively big move to a piss-poor hold. V5 feels right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Round Room (V6)
By: Boissal When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: +1 on height-dependent difficulty. Watching tall people run laps on this like it's V3 is depressing when you can get within 2mm of the only hold on the problem but not snag it. V6 seems unlikely if you're 5' tall, there just isn't anything to grab...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: Boissal When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: You are one inarticulate idiot aren't you... Here, use the word epitome one more time, you might fool someone into believing you have something to say.


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Upper Canopy : Donkey Kong Country (5.9+)
By: Boissal When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The rain drove us away...


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Aces High Tower : Feelio's Lament (5.8 X)
By: Boissal When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Sounds appealing! Good job not dying!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Flying Raptor's Area : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: I'm having a hard time picturing the location of this, can you see the end of the Upper Canopy on the right of the picture in the notch?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: Boissal When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of mana... more >>


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Lower Jungle : Oranguterror (5.11d R) : Photo
By: Boissal When: Sep 3, 2014

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Comments: I think we may need photo finish on that one as it saw another potential FA that day! Not sure who got to it first?
Strong work regardless, it's a tough line. I'm glad she rated it 11d, I thought that was spot on but team sandbag thought it was much easier :)


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