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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Hai Karate (5.7+)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: James, how can you say this route is contrived? It follows natural weaknesses. And it is the easiest route up the wall. I don't understand your meaning.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Crack (5.12a)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 3: after the bolt, the crack is 5.11 thin hands. So you can do this pitch at 5.11 A0 also.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Photo
By: Bobby Hanson When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can see the top of the hanger in the lower right corner.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Rabbit Rock : Hesitation Blues (5.7)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Large cams are nice for the anchor. #3 and #3.5 Camalots.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Bobby Hanson When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This guy actually found throwing-star booty!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Ross Connection, The (5.10b R)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It should be noted that the first pitch is 5.8, and is worth doing (one star).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Maverick Line (5.10 PG13)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I TRed this route after Alexi and Sam put it up (nice work, guys). The state it is in right now, I wouldn't want to lead it. It is quite runout. That's not to say that it needs more bolts. If you guys leave it as is I'm sure it will still get climbed.
The crux is the first three moves, and it is harder than 10-. The rest is 10-. It would be nice to have a bolt for those first moves, but I understand the ledgefall concern.
Also, the friction from the first big chickenhead to the second bi... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Jun 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must have missed it. Sorry for the false alarm. :)
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Location: UT : West Desert : Photo
By: Bobby Hanson When: Jun 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glen, great photo. I have my own copy of this exact same shot, but yours is nicer I think.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Barefoot in Barbados (5.10a)
By: Bobby Hanson When: May 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe T., my guess is you are confused about exactly which route this is. If there is a waterfall nearby, you probably aren't going to be doing much slab climbing that day. See Sweep Left.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: Bobby Hanson When: May 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach (update): cross south on the new bridge (the one you took to get into the parking lot). Several paces beyond, there is a trail that leads up into the trees. Follow this. The trail will go up and up, and then descend to cross a minor drainage (below some precarious logs), and then climb again.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Veils of Illusion (5.9)
By: Bobby Hanson When: May 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter, I concur. This is much easier than Up From the Bog. Better stances for pro too.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: Bobby Hanson When: May 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One can link Pitches 2 and 3 (as they are described here) with a 60m rope.
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Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Bobby Hanson When: May 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark Nelson wrote:
"And, why aren't there signs of the cable remaining in the socket?"
Mark, what do you mean here? It certainly looks like the remains of the cable in the socket.
Bobby
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: Bobby Hanson When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can climb up one side, walk across, and climb down the other side at about 5.6.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Ice : Donorcicle (WI5)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Dec 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can set up a TR on this one by hiking up to climber's left. There is a two-bolt anchor on a boulder at the top. It requires two ropes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Dec 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: James, I may be wrong, but I think that Tea was referring to a bolt on the finish of Tingey's Terror, not ...Torture.
I actually like the walk-off, and have still not used the rappels. That said, I've never thought about it too much, but I don't find the rappels "offensive." I simply find the walk-off to be pleasant. I once passed a whole herd of goats up there on the walk-off. They were much less skittish than I expected (this was my first, but not lone close encounter with the Wasatch mou... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon
By: Bobby Hanson When: Dec 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is a remote weather station near the mouth of Provo canyon. The latitude, longitude, and elevation are listed:
http://www.met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman/meso_base.cgi?stn=AS0>>>>>
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Ice : CCC Falls (WI4) : Photo
By: Bobby Hanson When: Dec 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's my girl!
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley
By: Bobby Hanson When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here are some more detailed directions to get to Joe's Valley for ice climbing. These directions are from SLC.
Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of th... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Standard Route (5.7)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Nov 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jump.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Perla's Ridge and environs : Perla's Ridge (Satyr Ridge) (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Bobby Hanson When: Oct 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is what happens when you drink too much TANG!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Reservoir Ridge (5.4)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Sep 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: WTF? Why are people putting bolts on these things? Resevoir Ridge has PLENTY of natural protection. It is a complete waste of bolts and effort. This climb probably holds little interest except for new leaders wanting practice placing pro, or (as Lee did) for taking children out for some easy trad climbing. Somebody PLEASE remove those bolts. I suggest giving one to Tyler and one to Tony, to be placed on any NEW routes that they wish!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Sep 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ridiculous!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Black Quacker (5.7)
By: Bobby Hanson When: Aug 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 3: the cracks to the left of the dihedral are really good (except where you have to bushwhack around the tree, but other than that...).
Pitch 4 variation: also good. Greg, I liked the alpine pro (read "draped chickenhead") in your photo.
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