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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Predator (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with Whitney when he did the first free ascent, red point, around 1990 or so. He had placed all the bolts & been working on freeing it previously. I did the second free lead, belayed by him, on this right after his ascent. It would be nice to think it was 12+, consensus will tell. From what I remember it didn't seem quite as hard as Electric Kool Aid. But that c... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Riddler (5.11c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harder than Elanor...\;o)
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's good to get some consensus opinions when talking about bolt removals and altering a route in some way that has existed for many years. And no offense meant to anyone on this post because I don't know who has or has not done this. However, I think there should be a caveat for posts on a route bolt removal request, moving a bolt is a different issue. But to have a "fair" assessment only folks that have actually lead the route without using the bolts should/would have the merit & reference to... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the rating change for this route and I'm with Malcom. Just because the anchors have been there for a long time doesn't mean they should have been placed there to begin with. This climb was originally put up as a 2 pitch climb and the first anchor is not even at a stance so to use it your are not really freeing this route but adding AO to this first pitch.
There are plenty of other good 10's in the area for folks to do. Adding an anchor in the middle of a pitch so folks can do it... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I totally agree! Unfair advantage if your name is "Hank Caylor". This would be a proud 12 send if you're a mortal.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is route is amazing!! Congratulations to the FA party for seeing this line and establishing this gem. Excellent climbing on every pitch and what a line.. First & second pitch ratings seemed right on. After that the upper pitches, in my opinion, felt a bit softer than the grades given. Regardless of ratings the climbing was brilliant!!
For some advice on logistics. If you want to travel a little lighter you could easily do without the #3 Camalot. We simo rapped the route & they we... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Deseret Moon (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uhmm... Guess that's why there use to be a bolt there. Folks, I know many do it, but I would recommend not trusting tiny cams in this rock for much. I can tell you, multiple true stories about small cams & even sometimes even large cams pulling in this rock with sometimes very bad consequences. Be careful and remember, it's a very long way to the Emergency Room from Indian Creek.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one.
I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and your aren't going to be able to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Polygrip (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slightly, much harder than Rock Lobster. Awesome route!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : No Lo Contendere (5.10c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is a good & worthy route but don't get on it if you don't have the skills for a little risque climbing. You have to be in control to do this climb and you probably will deck if you fall at the 5.8ish move getting to the ramp 20' above the first bolt. The opening moves should filter out most that should not be on this route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the upper section of the lower crux, it seems kind of ridiculous not to place some pro in the Handcrack climb on the right when you can just reach right over to it. Just need a long sling to keep from getting rope drag. This will keep you from taking a "Terminal Velocity" braking fall or falling onto some marginal RPs.
But if you want to make this climb more serious than it needs to be I guess you could avoid this.
Except for the gear fiddling issues on the lower crux section, the hardest ... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Minimum Security (5.11c/d)
By: Bob Rotert When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite routes at Shelf. One that has a lot of character & very unique compared to most routes at Shelf. Love the position & balancy climbing up the arete. Only thing that would make it better is if you had to do the roof to get to the arete instead of being able to traverse above the roof onto the arete. I agree the first unprotected moves to the first bolt and past it are probably the technical crux.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Excuse Station (5.11)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!!
I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!
The smooth 25 foot section with no face holds to work with after the first 15 feet will be the c... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Little Twin Owls : Jaws (V0)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe I may have done the first ascent of this boulder problem back @ 1972 or 73. I mention it not for the credit of a boulder problem FA, but because it was a huge ego stroke for me and a climbing moment I will never forget.
It was a summer day & I was in Colorado doing some climbing after having spent a month climbing in Yosemite for the first time. I was from the backwater climbing state of North Carolina and was on a climbing pilgrimage. I was 17 and hitching my way back from my stin... more >>
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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Mercury's Lead (5.9 R)
By: Bob Rotert When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: nbrown thanks for the route write up. Just a little comment on the line & intentions for the way this route was first done. The intention of this line was to stay well right of the Great Arch & be an independent line. I wanted it to fill the Gap between the Great Arch & Rainy Day Women.
It was a very long time ago but what I remember of the first ascent was the climbing and line put me where I ended up placing the second bolt a little bit left of the first bolt. When observed like a directis... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the record. "I was wearing diapers, DependsŪ actually, when I was sending 5.11 X."
LOL \;o)
I recommend them for anybody cimbing 5.11 X
Thanks for the banter Jason. I hope to run into you at the crags sometime and maybe we can get some pitches in. Cheers!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eli? The Eli Helmuth!!!
Never thought I would get such response from so many respectable, Bad Ass climbers from this post!! \;o) Thanks for replacing the first bolt, Eli. Much appreciated!! It's good to hear you say you have a lot of confidence in it. At least....
Doubling up/backing up with 2 draws & biners is an available option on critical clip ins. One I use often in this type of situation. I saw this as a situation where there isn't another option for backup/redundancy. But I wo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Pineapple Juice (5.11b)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kelly? The Kelly Cordes!! \;o)
Thanks for your response Kelly. Sounds like you interpreted I was advocating adding another bolt down low. I'm learning you have to be careful what you write on these comments. And you're right, it's absolutely no issue clipping the first bolt. The thing that scared me was doing the hard moves above the single bolt 40 plus feet off the deck, with nothing in between, and thinking what would happen if it broke if I fell on it. At the time, I didn't suss ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Rhythm Method (5.12b R)
By: Bob Rotert When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, can you elaborate on how this route established. When you say an onsite attempt at this route would be a serious undertaking it sounds like you might be saying the route was previewed or head pointed before the FA? Just trying to get a little more detail on this one. Looks like a proud line! Nice addition Brotha!
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