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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Mushroom Massif : Freewheelin' (5.8+ PG13)
By: Bob Packwood When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only led P1 but this was an exciting lead. Friable and dirty rock in spots, but then it hardly gets climbed and that's the Vrain granite for ya.
The 5.8+ fingery traverse was exciting. Bit hard to place gear and there's a bolt below your toes.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : On the Lamb (5.9) : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That new Alpinist has the cover shot of Bachar soloing this...similar shot. Classic.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lamb Dome : On the Lamb (5.9) : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The latest Alpinist has Bachar soloing this very spot back in the day. Sweet shot. Classic.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Bob Packwood When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A story: This was one of my first significant leads years ago. We didn't bring anything larger than a #3 Camalot. We had a 60m rope. I led P2 and just cruised right up into P3 like an idiot, feeling good. I placed my tipped out #3 well below the squeeze and began running it out. I stopped and attempted to get to the beat up "squirrel turd" rope (mentioned above), to no avail: it was too deep into the maw. I proceeded, now way too far above my last piece, to stem smoothly throug... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot Joey Wolfe!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This part of the climb is delicate and technical, .10a or so...really nice contrast to the thuggish overhung jams at the crux.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Tricouni Nail/Cerberus : Cerberus (5.8) : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful. Nice to see this climb in detail from before the lichen was worn off...even prettier! It's also nice to see that the same protection points have been preserved since 1973. What a classic!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Bob Packwood When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One star: Overbolted, goes to nowhere, snore.
(This comment and rating is to provide a counterweight to the excessively high star ratings above with which I most strongly disagree)
P.S. - The rap to the right IS more efficient and has the added benefit of not clogging the already frequently clogged route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Dos Equis (5.10b)
By: Bob Packwood When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful on the first pitch. The gear under the roof system is so-so rock quality and if it blows you're likely gonna deck. There was a fixed nut there yesterday, again in dubious rock.
This is a sweet, sweet friction climb with steadily increasing difficulty on each pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : The Unsaid (5.9)
By: Bob Packwood When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't be scared if you're a tentative 5.9 Eldo leader, just do this climb. It is not "run out" by Eldo standards. It's just classic Eldo: thin but good gear, devious technique crux sandwiched between decent rests, aesthetic line. Eldo is amazing.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Work and Play Area : Guiding Light A.K.A Round U... (V3-4) : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot. What is she afraid of, though? Landing in the arms of some muscular dudes?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Morte (5.9)
By: Bob Packwood When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lower section of this climb has got to have a PG-13 or R rating, doesn't it? I mean none of those damned hollow flakes in the lower strata are trustworthy. It's basically no feel-good pro until the upper 2/3 of the route. Just my opinion, a great route overall.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Coliseum : Lost in Time (5.10b)
By: Bob Packwood When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed, this climb ranks up there with 'Panic' and 'Upside' as one of the top thin slab routes in the SSV.
No need to climb P1 of this, just rap in from Handcrack-A-Rete since you HAVE to do that climb if you're here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Bob Packwood When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lower crux is slippery and not very fun if they are your first moves of the day, IMO. If this is your grade, do a warmup route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7) : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Jul 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for doing this work!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Space Shuttle (5.9+)
By: Bob Packwood When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an "Eldo-esque" trad climb sitting in the middle of a bunch of classic Rumney 5.HARD sport routes. What I'm saying is there ain't nobody ever on this puppy.
After anchoring your belayer, turn the roof with good pro and then place more bomber gear at your nipples, then enjoy the sweet layback/jam corner that eats pro all the way to the chains. Some great 5.9 moves in the corner too. Rack up to a #2 camalot sews it.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Rainbow (5.6)
By: Bob Packwood When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second the comment above that this route is enjoyable. Very fun. Stay left to get the most air.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler (5.9-)
By: Bob Packwood When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was a proud onsight. Sustained sinker hand and finger jams with marginal/painful feet. And by sustained I mean like 200 feet of it.
Conserve your hand-sized gear at the start, and you will enjoy having it as you jam upwards towards the first belay, a long way. Before the belay is a sweet chockstone that I almost asked out to dinner.
Awesome! Aesthetic! Proud! Historical!
The loose flakes and blocks at the very top are scary. Place passive pro only here and don't yank if you fini... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Great shot...I thought it was a painting for a while.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles
By: Bob Packwood When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Question: What is the name of the route in John "Vermin" Sherman's famous picture at Arapiles? (He is ropeless, in sandals, drinking a beer, you know the one!)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I nominate this for best picture ever. I laid down fat pow turns on two separate days in Doudy Draw during that storm cycle. Didn't hit a single rock.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha ha Mark!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Layton's Ascent (5.9)
By: Bob Packwood When: Mar 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting. Thanks guys!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall
By: Bob Packwood When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let me second the suggestion above to
STAY ON THE TALUS to approach/depart your route of choice rather than CONTRIBUTE TO THE WORSENING EROSION NEXT TO THE CLIFF.
Some time after the trail passes Industrial Wall the competent routefinder will naturally punch left into the talus.
(Apparently the prior version of my post was edited out by an Admin?)
Why do we have to have pictures with arrows and topos galore to gently guide everybody who lacks routefinding skills and a sense of patience and ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : ... : Photo
By: Bob Packwood When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool photo!
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