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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fallen Idol + Wave/Moss Cav... : Unknown (5.10+)
By: bob branscomb When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called Eros in Bechtel's book....rated 10d.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone : Flake Route (5.7)
By: bob branscomb When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yea, what a cool route. You can't believe you're so fortunate to have found such a cool place to climb to boot.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone : Blue Moon (5.5)
By: bob branscomb When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all due respect, I think you may have mis-measured the pitch lengths.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogwild : Prociutto (5.10c)
By: bob branscomb When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice route and well bolted: I liked it the best of all on Hogwild, but I'm partial to low angle face routes.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogwild : Accessory Dogs (5.10a)
By: bob branscomb When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route...well done, Petch. I think if you'd done it a few times, it would seem like 5.9, but the first time up, it's a 10a.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Southern Wall Left (5.10c)
By: bob branscomb When: Jul 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this with Mark Vogel on 7/18/09...Great route...the second crux on the 10c pitch is shaky pro...I managed a #1 camalot and a .75 camalot, both not great but found a fairly good 3 stopper placement a little lower. The camalots might slow you down enough so the stopper holds. Maybe some HB offsets would work here? Fortunately the crux there is short and fairly obvious what to do, but you just don't really want to go airborne there: if that stopper pulled it would be a bad fall. It's ... more >>
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone : Zircon Encrusted Geezers (5.7+)
By: bob branscomb When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: on 7/15/09 Kristi Stouffer and I fixed the start of the second pitch by adding a new bolt at the step out of the crack and another half way to the next bolt. Took the hanger off the original bolt...I think it's safer now...won't hit the belay ledge if you fall coming out of the crack.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
By: bob branscomb When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should also say that if you do get hassled by some rancher about access, just be polite and listen. It's serious for them out there: it's their living and they could care less about lectures on land use policy. Basically they pay fees to use the land out there (to BLM) and climbers don't. Guess what talks when BLM reviews land use policy? So we try not to rile the ranchers so we can continue to have access.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
By: bob branscomb When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The locals aren't really that bad, we project that image to keep people away while we scarf up all the routes. They are real sensitive about closing gates so if you go through any gates that are closed, close them behind you. Also, the Lankin Gap and Moonstone areas are closed to public access until about the end of May, the BLM grazing lease thing is from mid-april to about June something. It's really stupid, but that's the game we have to play here. You can go into Lankin dome from the wes... more >>
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
By: bob branscomb When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sport friction....ehhh the new waaaaaaaaaaave. Ha!
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
By: bob branscomb When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ones that Ed and I put up together were put up in the lead, with no previewing on rappel. Used a Bosch and when the stances were too thin, either put a Leeper hook on any edge present or hand drilled a shallow hole and perched on a pointed Leeper hook to haul the bag and get the bolt in. So, I suppose that quals as trad, not in the Tom Higgins mode but we thought, if we're gonna put these up, don't make it a horror show, you know, big bolts that are solid and not miles apart.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Bear's Reach (5.7)
By: bob branscomb When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where else but Lover's Leap can you be on a 5.7 and look straight to the deck for 300 feet between your heels? Great route.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
By: bob branscomb When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: camerones: I'm a little sorry too when I look at the amount of money we invested in drills and bolts, but, hey, that's the cost of existence. There's still room for more lines out there. We focused on the water runnels mainly, because they needed so little cleaning, but outside the runnels, with some brushing and whatnot, that's where the hard stuff is, at least I think so. It looks pretty intimidating anyway. Check it out and let me know how hard you think those routes are. Ed and I are r... more >>
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield Central : Screaming Trees (5.11a)
By: bob branscomb When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark Vogel and I played on this in January and there are still only 4 bolts on it. There are two other routes (Chainsaw Willy and Born X-eyed) that are close together there so maybe got them mixed up.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Sanctuary (of Eternal B... : Obscured By Cloud (5.10a)
By: bob branscomb When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom: no, I didn't have any name for this area. Actually, I like the Sanctuary of Eternal Bliss thing myself. It's a cool name and sounds good to me. Looked around up there one day this winter, you guys have really put some work in up there...nice job. OK...sounds good to me................bobbo
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : The Sanctuary (of Eternal B... : Obscured By Cloud (5.10a)
By: bob branscomb When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yup, that was me that put this up. I called it Obscured by Cloud and thought it 10a/b. The upper section starts with an A0 pull on the bolt off the two bolt belay, enabling you to reach a good crimp up and left before proceeding over the overhang. Don't let this one move put you off though, because the climbing above is superb and exposed with a 10a move in it, all bolt protected. You can go all the way to the bolted anchor at the top of the upper section and rappel the pitch with a 60m rope... more >>
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: And now, a lecture from Mr. Science! I finally figured out that the main reason people don't go to Fairfield as much is because there aren't as many pockets as in the Main Area. Duhhhh, I've only been here 19 years. Jesus, too many drugs. Most of the climbs involve a lot of edging and crimping, which is admittedly not as fun as hauling pockets.
I think the reason for this is that pockets in dolomite are the old tracks of prehistoric clams in those old seabeds. I went to a Geology of the Sin... more >>
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield Central : Screaming Trees (5.11a)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually there are only 4 bolts on this pitch, but the stuff is all in getting to the second bolt. Above bolt#2 it is pretty darned led out (this was 1990 and we were still into that Yosemite lead-out thing) but, the bolts are at the 5.8 parts. There will be a couple of 5.8ish moves off each bolt and then it eases up till the next one. So, it makes it kinda fun.
Screaming Trees and Born X-Eyed share the same anchor, so you can go up Born X-Eyed and top rope Screaming Trees if desired.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Fantasia (5.9 R)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still think this route is 5.9. Take a couple of 1/2" webbing slings, esp for the Three Grey Knobs. They probably won't hold anything but they'll give you an ephemeral feeling that you're ok. I led all this route twice in the 80s and think it is the best route at the Leap, for aesthetics, boldness, and having to really commit yourself fully: all those great values of 60s/70s rock climbing. One of the great, great routes, but need to have serious cool head and experience or you'll get hurt.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Hogsback : Dancing Feet (5.10d R)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: definitely an advanced unit for a cool head. lead the whole thing once with my girlfriend shortly after it was put up. those Tahoe guys were pretty hard men.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Captain Coconuts (5.10a R)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I lead this unit in the mid-80s and remember finding a set of RPs and thin stoppers, and the smallest Metolius tricams made it a bit better. Still, remember feeling that once was enough up the thing.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield East : Second Helping (5.10a/b)
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: probably hit the wrong button, more than anything, but it is a very friendly route.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Over the last 2 years, Ed DeLong and I have put up several more low angle face/friction climbs here, mostly 60m pitches with Fixx 3/8" bolts and Fixx rappel ring anchors, up to 10b. There are about 20 routes on this stone now. There is a topo at Wild Iris in Lander to sort it all out.
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Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks
By: bob branscomb When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, this is a vvvverrrrry dangerous area where insane, perverted locals lurk behind innocuous sagebrushes waiting to pounce on anyone with Colorado, Utah, or California license plates and commit unspeakable acts upon them. venture here at risk to your reason.
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