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Bob Gaines


Member Since: Dec 1, 2001
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 212
Total Points: 2,520
Last Year: 260
Last 30 Days: 79
135 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1039 | Routes 145 | Areas 5 | Photos 168 | Page Improvements | Comments 155 | Posts 8 | Stars 387 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Gilligan's Island : Ginger's Face : As the Wind Blows (5.8 PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: The superfluous rusty bolt has beeen removed (due to the fact that there is a bomber pro placement in the crack right next to it)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Gilligan's Island : Ginger's Face : Gun for the Sun (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: The old bolts have been replaced, thanks to Kevin Powell (and the ASCA for donating the hardware)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Gilligan's Island : Ginger's Face : Through the Looking Glass (5.9-)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: There are 2 belay/rappel bolts (somewhat hidden) at the very top of the cliff above Gun for the Sun, eliminating the need for the ugly wad of slings around the block. (90 foot rappel)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - SW Face : ... : The Maw (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Not a sport climb. Unless you want to solo 5.8 to get to the first bolt (about 20 feet up), you'll want some pro to protect the start. I used a #1 metolius (.6 inches) and a #1 camalot (1.5 inches). After that you've got 4 bolts for pro to the top.

The move past the first bolt is a balancey 10a; 5.9 past the second bolt, then 10a/b past the two bolts on the top headwall. The step-across to the top headwall (spanning "the maw") is somewhat leg length and height dep... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Both photos are of the first pitch of Ball Bearing


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: I'd rate the slab 5.9 and the bulging headwall at the top 5.10a/b, with the caveat that the first few moves on the bulge are reachy: the shorter you are, the harder it will seem. There is a bit of rust on the nuts on the bolts (they are threaded 3/8-inch Rawls), but all the protection bolts themselves are in good shape.

The anchor bolts are 5/16-inch Rawl Drives, both protruding slightly and both spinners. I'll replace these when I get a chance.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: "This is one best pitches I've done in Josh!"

Peter Croft said exactly the same thing when he first led it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Sampson (5.9)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The bolted route to the right of Sampson's final pitch is called Bathsheba (5.9). It begins from the bolted belay where Change in the Weather ends. 3 bolts plus pro to 1.5 inches. Bathsheba ends at a pine tree belay.

I gave Sampson an R rating in the last guidebook.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: From the Eureka anchor it's a 95-foot (<30 meters) rappel to the deck.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Decapitation (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is more like 120 feet (35 meters) from the bolt anchor to the deck.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : After the Gold Rush (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: This route is actually After the Gold Rush (5.7) and is about 50 feet left of Finger Lickin' Good.

The route 15 feet left of Finger Lickin' Good is a 3 bolt slab climb called Rhino Skin (5.10c), which shares the anchor with Finger Lickin' Good and Goblin.

All these route are detailed in the latest 2013 guidebook Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Trapeze (5.11d) : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: IMPRESSIVE


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Under the Radar (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Hi Susan. The reason for the glue-in anchor bolts: the rock is really bad at the spot I wanted the anchor. After I hand-drilled the holes I could slip the bolts in and out with my fingers....the glue-ins solved the problem, and they seem to be holding up well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't call the holds at the top "jugs"

C Miller's route description of "incut patina edges" is more accurate, as these holds are edges less than an inch wide.

Maybe you could call them "finger jugs"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Band Saw (5.10c R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: Led it onsight back in the day (1980's). I remember the scariest part was a cruel surprise when I got to the last bolt, a 1/4 inch spinner hanging over 1/2 way out of it's hole, and I wasn't sure how hard the rest of the grainy slab was.

After we put up Sexy Grandma the route became very popular to TR off the Sexy Grandma anchor, and the graininess is gone. Even though now I have it ruthlessly wired, don't think I'll be leading this one unless someone retros a bolt for the start. Maybe ask per... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Sphinx Rock : Cleopatra (5.11b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: I went back recently and led this route for the second time, 24 years after the first ascent!

The bolts are in great shape, but you'll probably want a piece at the start (I used a #3 camalot) to protect the moves getting up to the first bolt, which consists of liebacking then standing up on a fragile flake to the clip the first bolt. You can get a CD behind this flake, but it can't be trusted 'cause the flake is wafer thin. It's about 5.6 R to stand up on the flake. I wouldn't call it a ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Left Side : Just Another Crack from LA (5.9)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The start is what makes this route funky. Without a stack of crash pads and a couple of spotters, if you blow the opening face moves (5.9 R) chances are you'll get hurt bad due to the jumble of jagged blocks for the landing.

You can clip the first bolt of LA Woman and traverse right over to the big flake for a safer start with adequate pro. From the flake climb a few slab moves (5.7 PG) to reach a long vertical crack. Once you get to the crack the pro is good, with some nice jamming ne... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Anasazi Wall : Mushroom Crack (5.10b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 7, 2014

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Comments: I think left side in is the way to go.

No easy way to do it....pure offwidth crux!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Elijah's Coming (5.10b X)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Actually, the route name is Elijah's Coming, named to commemorate the upcoming birth of my partner Bruce's son Elijah.

The second pitch was originally led with no bolts (5.8 X). The 2 bolts were added later by my partner Bruce with my permission, to make for a fun and safe pitch.

When I led the first pitch I placed a piece high in the Mike's Books crack (5.10b R).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: It's just you...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: Hi Tom. Great to have a post from you! I think that the pin on the last pitch was replaced with a bolt some years ago, probably when the original bolts were replaced.

In my new guidebook I described it as "One of America's most difficult rock climbs when first climbed in 1964" and it remains a great challenge to this day. One of my favorites at Tahquitz.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Casino Royale (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: Good work Shelby and KP!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 21, 2013

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Comments: Hey Josh,

I posted some pictures of Peter making the move up to the flake. The .75 camalot is "less than bomber" because of the dubious rock, although just clipping into it might have a nerve calming effect when that far out from the bolt. I think the way to go is to put the cam in after you grab the flake.

I remember discussing with Peter that at least for the last move (grabbing the flake) you're going off a very solid, incut handhold, so at least you don't have to worry about the h... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Nice story Josh!

You wouldn't want to fall from the last move to the flake....you'd probably go 60 feet with rope stretch. That's why it gets an R rating.

If you look at the photo of Peter leading up to the flake, if you climb straight up above where he is, then move left to the flake, the rock is solid, with good incut holds.

It's easy to get suckered into standing on that ledge just to his left, but that's a harder way to go.

The top half of Solid Gold's first pitch has the same bird shit ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Pet Sounds (5.5 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: called Pet Sounds 5.5 R

FA: Bob Gaines, Feb., 1996.


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