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Bob Gaines


Member Since: Dec 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 203
Total Points: 2,649
Last Year: 336
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1080 | Routes 155 | Areas 6 | Photos 169 | Page Improvements | Comments 164 | Posts 9 | Stars 402 | Ratings 175
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Watergate Rock Area : Watergate Rock : Pardon Me (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: There are a couple of mistakes in the Vogel 1992 book on Watergate Rock. The big one is that the route immediately left of Pardon Me, route 1826 (listed as Political Rehabilitation 5.8) is depicted in the photodiagram as having one bolt and it actually has none!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Watergate Rock Area : Watergate Rock : Pardon Me (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Begins with a short hand crack, then has 2 bolts on the slab.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Avant Yvonne (aka Read my F... (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: This route was never named "Read my Flips" or "Read My Lips."

We did the FA soon after Roy put up Avant Cave, and we named it Avant Yvonne ... so I'd drop the "AKA Read My Flips."

Maybe the confusion is that I also put up a route about 50 feet to the right named Read My Lips (5.11b).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Time Avenger (5.11b PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: This slab climb has some very nice patina.

Shares the first 2 bolts with Broken Bits, then moves up and left to a 3rd bolt. Bolts 3,4,5 and 6 are closely spaced, with the crux climbing just right from the 5th bolt then back up and left to the 6th bolt.

Runnout, but easier climbing past a 7th bolt leads to the top (gear anchor).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : The Dakota Domes : South Dakota Dome
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: From the Comic Book pullout (which is the trailhead for the marked Comic Book climber's trail) if you walk directly toward the formation, there is already a pretty good trail developing. Look for footprints. If you don't make any new ones you'll be on the path.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside ... : Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun (5.9+)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Originally there was a big jug facilitating the clip to the lower-off anchor....but it subsequently has broken off, so the clip is somewhat more difficult, but still do-able.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jellystone : Jellystone Southwest Face : Improv (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: You can also start with a fingertip lieback just left of the groove (5.7)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jellystone : Jellystone Southwest Face : Slapstick (5.10b/c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Revisited this climb, 7 years after the first ascent. The graininess is long gone so I'd bump it up to two stars. Fun slapping up a blunt, slabby arete. The hangers are designed for threading a rappel rope directly through the hangers (but not for toproping or lowering).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside ... : Carving Pumpkins (5.10c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Hi Sue. The last bolt is for the follower or for toproping, not for the leader.

We originally led the route without the last (7th) bolt, but realized that it was scarier to follow or TR than it was to lead it because of the potential swing. So the 7th bolt is for protecting the follower or anyone toproping, from what is potentially an injurious swing.

If you're toproping the 10+ direct finish (right, then up from the 6th bolt) there's no need to clip the 7th bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : As the Wind Blows (5.8 PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: The superfluous rusty bolt has beeen removed (due to the fact that there is a bomber pro placement in the crack right next to it)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Gun for the Sun (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: The old bolts have been replaced, thanks to Kevin Powell (and the ASCA for donating the hardware)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Through the Looking Glass (5.9-)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: There are 2 belay/rappel bolts (somewhat hidden) at the very top of the cliff above Gun for the Sun, eliminating the need for the ugly wad of slings around the block. (90 foot rappel)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - SW Face : ... : The Maw (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Not a sport climb. Unless you want to solo 5.8 to get to the first bolt (about 20 feet up), you'll want some pro to protect the start. I used a #1 metolius (.6 inches) and a #1 camalot (1.5 inches). After that you've got 4 bolts for pro to the top.

The move past the first bolt is a balancey 10a; 5.9 past the second bolt, then 10a/b past the two bolts on the top headwall. The step-across to the top headwall (spanning "the maw") is somewhat leg length and height dep... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : The Sentinel - East Face : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Both photos are of the first pitch of Ball Bearing


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: I'd rate the slab 5.9 and the bulging headwall at the top 5.10a/b, with the caveat that the first few moves on the bulge are reachy: the shorter you are, the harder it will seem. There is a bit of rust on the nuts on the bolts (they are threaded 3/8-inch Rawls), but all the protection bolts themselves are in good shape.

The anchor bolts are 5/16-inch Rawl Drives, both protruding slightly and both spinners. I'll replace these when I get a chance.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Astroturf (5.10d R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 19, 2014

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Comments: "This is one best pitches I've done in Josh!"

Peter Croft said exactly the same thing when he first led it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Sampson (5.9)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The bolted route to the right of Sampson's final pitch is called Bathsheba (5.9). It begins from the bolted belay where Change in the Weather ends. 3 bolts plus pro to 1.5 inches. Bathsheba ends at a pine tree belay.

I gave Sampson an R rating in the last guidebook.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: From the Eureka anchor it's a 95-foot (<30 meters) rappel to the deck.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : North Face : Decapitation (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is more like 120 feet (35 meters) from the bolt anchor to the deck.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : After the Gold Rush (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: This route is actually After the Gold Rush (5.7) and is about 50 feet left of Finger Lickin' Good.

The route 15 feet left of Finger Lickin' Good is a 3 bolt slab climb called Rhino Skin (5.10c), which shares the anchor with Finger Lickin' Good and Goblin.

All these route are detailed in the latest 2013 guidebook Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Trapeze (5.11d) : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: IMPRESSIVE


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Hidden Slab : Under the Radar (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: Hi Susan. The reason for the glue-in anchor bolts: the rock is really bad at the spot I wanted the anchor. After I hand-drilled the holes I could slip the bolts in and out with my fingers....the glue-ins solved the problem, and they seem to be holding up well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't call the holds at the top "jugs"

C Miller's route description of "incut patina edges" is more accurate, as these holds are edges less than an inch wide.

Maybe you could call them "finger jugs"


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Band Saw (5.10c R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: Led it onsight back in the day (1980's). I remember the scariest part was a cruel surprise when I got to the last bolt, a 1/4 inch spinner protruding way out of it's hole, and I wasn't sure how hard the rest of the grainy slab was.

After we put up Sexy Grandma the route became very popular to TR off the Sexy Grandma anchor, and the graininess is gone. Even though now I have it ruthlessly wired, don't think I'll be leading this one unless someone retros a bolt for the start. Maybe ask permissio... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Sphinx Rock : Cleopatra (5.11b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 29, 2014

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Comments: I went back recently and led this route for the second time, 24 years after the first ascent!

The bolts are in great shape, but you'll probably want a piece at the start (I used a #3 camalot) to protect the moves getting up to the first bolt, which consists of liebacking then standing up on a fragile flake to the clip the first bolt. You can get a CD behind this flake, but it can't be trusted 'cause the flake is wafer thin. It's about 5.6 R to stand up on the flake. I wouldn't call it a ... more >>


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