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Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Gaines


Member Since: Dec 1, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 9, 2016
Contact Bob Gaines

Point Rank: # 203
Total Points: 2,923
Last Year: 274
Last 30 Days: 0
175 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Gaines been climbing?










Contributions


All 1158 | Routes 171 | Areas 6 | Photos 189 | Page Improvements | Comments 178 | Posts 9 | Stars 426 | Ratings 179
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : ZZZZZ (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: May 7, 2016

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Comments: I'd say if you add the direct start you've got yourself a pretty classic pitch- one of my favorites!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Anthrax Rock : Freddy vs Jason (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: This is actually the second pitch of a route named Freddy vs. Jason. FA: Alan Bartlett and Dan Zachs, January 2004.

Reference: Rock Climbs of Hidden Valley, Third Edition, 2004 Supplement, page 135.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Unknown (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: I think you may have done a first ascent! So you get to name it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : The Mojus (aka Slushie) (5.10c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 29, 2016

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Comments: Climb a beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.10b/c; well-protected at the crux) then run it out a bit on easier slab (5.7/8) to a steeper section with 3 closely-spaced bolts (5.10+). At the 5th bolt traverse straight left past a 6th bolt over to a crack/corner (optional belay here to reduce rope drag).

On this crux traverse you'll encounter poor rock with disintegrating edges. This section is getting harder and harder as holds are getting stripped off and is now more like 5.11. From here c... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: The "approach pitch" (sic) is actually the first pitch of Where Have all the Cowboys Gone. Santa Cruz was done a year later.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Black Ice (5.10b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: I agree. It's a shame this beautiful patina slab suffers the lasting scars from a petty little bolt war. When the bolts were chopped the first time my friend went back and added the retro bolts again, and they got chopped a second time.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Unknown (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: Hey Tricamus,
I used the name Idiot Wind for a route about 45 feet right of Don't Think Twice. It's listed in the Joshua Tree West guidebook, published in 2006. In the West guidebook the description is correct, but the route location is mis-drawn.

Were you referring to the West guidebook when you climbed the route you posted here? Or were you going for your own FA and just happened to pick the same name?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : Jane's Getting Serious (5.12b)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 27, 2015

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Comments: Aid off the first bolt, then the rest of it is fun, well-protected face climbing (5.11b) past 5 more bolts.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : ... : Photo
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 27, 2015

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Comments: Adam, you can delete this one...I posted a high res version


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Iron Man's Traverse (5.10c R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Great story.

Love that song. "I am iron man....."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Rad Nad (5.10a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: FA(toprope): Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, September, 2002.

We named it The Big Apple


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (v) North Face : Tabby Treat (5.2)
By: Bob Gaines When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch (5.0) has good pro and a bomber gear anchor if you belay on the ledge a bit higher than the bush (2-inch CDs). I agree with Ben about the second pitch being somewhat difficult to protect with the rock being a little funky.

I rated the second pitch at 5.4 in the new guidebook (Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks).

This is one of those climbs that is popular simply because it's easy- and there aren't that many easy routes at Suicide Rock.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Central Wonderland : ... : Walt's Frozen Head (5.10 PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Named after Walt Disney.

I was watching a talk show. The subject was cryogenics. The interviewer asked the cryogenics expert "Is it true that Walt Disney's body was cryogenically frozen." The expert replied: "I believe it was just his head."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : The Sand Donkey (aka Will I... (5.8)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: FA (Toprope) Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, Feb. 2005.

We named it "Will It or Won't It" and rated it 5.8

This is just left of "Willit Hold?" 5.8 PG, which climbs up past several horizontals to a left-slanting thin crack/seam, FA: Alan Bartlett, Dave Haber, and Carl Branyan, December 1990.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Watergate Rock Area : Watergate Rock : Pardon Me (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: There are a couple of mistakes in the Vogel 1992 book on Watergate Rock. The big one is that the route immediately left of Pardon Me, route 1826 (listed as Political Rehabilitation 5.8) is depicted in the photodiagram as having one bolt and it actually has none!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Watergate Rock Area : Watergate Rock : Pardon Me (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Begins with a short hand crack, then has 2 bolts on the slab.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Avant Yvonne (aka Read my F... (5.11a)
By: Bob Gaines When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: This route was never named "Read my Flips" or "Read My Lips."

We did the FA soon after Roy put up Avant Cave, and we named it Avant Yvonne ... so I'd drop the "AKA Read My Flips."

Maybe the confusion is that I also put up a route about 50 feet to the right named Read My Lips (5.11b).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : Time Avenger (5.11b PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: This slab climb has some very nice patina.

Shares the first 2 bolts with Broken Bits, then moves up and left to a 3rd bolt. Bolts 3,4,5 and 6 are closely spaced, with the crux climbing just right from the 5th bolt then back up and left to the 6th bolt.

Runnout, but easier climbing past a 7th bolt leads to the top (gear anchor).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : The Dakota Domes : South Dakota Dome
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: From the Comic Book pullout (which is the trailhead for the marked Comic Book climber's trail) if you walk directly toward the formation, there is already a pretty good trail developing. Look for footprints. If you don't make any new ones you'll be on the path.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside ... : Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun (5.9+)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Originally there was a big jug facilitating the clip to the lower-off anchor....but it subsequently has broken off, so the clip is somewhat more difficult, but still do-able.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jellystone : Jellystone Southwest Face : Improv (5.7)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: You can also start with a fingertip lieback just left of the groove (5.7)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jellystone : Jellystone Southwest Face : Slapstick (5.10b/c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Revisited this climb, 7 years after the first ascent. The graininess is long gone so I'd bump it up to two stars. Fun slapping up a blunt, slabby arete. The hangers are designed for threading a rappel rope directly through the hangers (but not for toproping or lowering).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Sleepy Hollow aka Lakeside ... : Carving Pumpkins (5.10c)
By: Bob Gaines When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Hi Sue. The last bolt is for the follower or for toproping, not for the leader.

We originally led the route without the last (7th) bolt, but realized that it was scarier to follow or TR than it was to lead it because of the potential swing. So the 7th bolt is for protecting the follower or anyone toproping, from what is potentially an injurious swing.

If you're toproping the 10+ direct finish (right, then up from the 6th bolt) there's no need to clip the 7th bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : As the Wind Blows (5.8 PG13)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: The superfluous rusty bolt has beeen removed (due to the fact that there is a bomber pro placement in the crack right next to it)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Gun for the Sun (5.9 R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Jan 22, 2015

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Comments: The old bolts have been replaced, thanks to Kevin Powell (and the ASCA for donating the hardware)


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