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Member Since: Apr 20, 2007
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 841
Total Points: 777
Last Year: 38
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Broilo been climbing?










Contributions


All 476 | Routes 42 | Areas 7 | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 42 | Posts 46 | Stars 175 | Ratings 122
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Photo
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Many boulder problems in this area as well, some quite tall (highball).


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : Big Cat Canyon (a.k.a. Spid...
By: Bob Broilo When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: We referred to this as "Spider Canyon" for the one jillion spiders we used to climb with there. From my notes from 2002-03 in case you missed a problem or two:

"To get to "Spider Canyon", go just a few hundred yards North on FR10 from Peck's Peninsula until you see a two-track heading North to the left. Follow this road to the obvious boulders. Actually, the road doesn't go very far before ending. It's a small canyon.

Spider Canyon: 13S0353823 3955802
Spider Bites - up the choss slab l... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island
By: Bob Broilo When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Yes, good primitive camping spots all along FR6A, FR2, etc. It's forest land and there are no restrictions at the moment so you can camp anywhere, but try to practice "leave no trace". For developed campsites try Datil Well campground.

Please don't camp at the trailhead unless you like a train of climbers/hunters parking and hiking through your camp. There is a very pleasant meadow, prolly full of wildflowers right now, just south of the Monster Island boulders accessed by a spur road east o... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Alcohol Wall
By: Bob Broilo When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: There are big shiny new bolts on "Bottoms Up" that replaced the rusty old SMC spinners, not aware of any nearby to the left of that but haven't been to Alcohol wall in 2-3 weeks. B-52 still had the very high first bolt.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: The smoke plume from the Whitewater/Baldy fire complex is slamming the Tower and Monster Island right now. Smoke is dense enough to fall in the "very unhealthy" to "hazardous" range (less than 1 mile visibility).


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Although the gate may be unlocked at times, I have been told by the landowner that the access through private land will be closed for a few weeks during the period of maximum fire danger. There is a sign on the gate. If you find the gate open or unlocked and chose to go in this way, you may find the gate locked when you try to leave.

This closure is in effect now and will last until sometime after July 4th (and the monsoons kick in). As soon as I know when I will post again. Fortunately, the... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Warm Up Solo (5.5)
By: Bob Broilo When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: AKA the "death slab". Do not fall!

On the overhanging reddish West face there are two solo climbs. Both FAed by Eric "Peck" Heatwole. The right line is fun, 5.10ish, and somewhat clean and solid, but be very careful because a fall could easily kill you. The left line is harder, looser, and it's fun to hear Peck tell the story of the first ascent. A few years after these climbs started getting traffic someone put a single bolt on the top of the right line.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Outlying Boulders : Substance P (V8)
By: Bob Broilo When: Sep 6, 2011

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Comments: This is "substance P". Don't do it if there's an active bird's nest in the finish jug.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 17, 2011

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Comments: Gate is locked on Friday 6/17/2011 with a note claiming "extreme fire hazard - no access to rock climbing".


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Fro... (5.11b)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: I didn't like this route a few years ago but it seems to have cleaned up a lot. I think it's pretty fun now. Missing some footholds but less sandy/gritty so grade is still about right.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island
By: Bob Broilo When: May 20, 2011

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Comments: Brian,
Yes, however none go straight up from Monster Island due to the bands of choss. There is a existing summit route that goes at 5.8-9. You can find info on the "Sawtooth Crags" topos hidden in a chewed-up medicine bottle in a hueco about 1/2 mile to the South of Monster Island near some sport routes. Some day I will post the pictures I took of them.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: Regarding the hardware, there was a motivated local named James Hunter who was doing updates. He was focused on the anchors and fixed many of the sketchy older jobs. He has since moved away. Getting replacement gear is not a problem. The motivation to fight the crowds at the tower for the same old routes when there is so much other stuff to do, is. For the Socorro folks anyway. Also there is the ongoing effort to mitigate the effects of the many people who camp and poop there, which also g... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Outlying Boulders
By: Bob Broilo When: Mar 30, 2011

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Comments: If you read the intro to the guide it explains the shorthand used in the name block for the problem. (V4-V7) is the reported range of grades, while V4 is the consensus. That information is included for historical reasons, it's interesting to see how some problems are all reported the same grade and some vary wildly. One problem is V1 (V1-V9) but it's an inside joke :-).


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Harmonica Convention (AKA B... : ... : Photo
By: Bob Broilo When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: You are correct this is way right of Super Colon Blow, but the day this pic was taken Jon did not send from the his chosen sit start. I don't know if he came back and completed, and if so I don't know the name. It is a completely seperate line from SCB.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Spook Canyon : Spook Outlying Boulders : Eric Scully (V4-5)
By: Bob Broilo When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: Link is broken above due to ")" at end.

Try:
This one


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Center (V7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: This would have been 1995 or so, so I guess that's a long time ago. How did I get so old? Anyway, It doesn't look like it gets any traffic, so regardless, anyone attempting it should mos def watch for looseness! I don't know if it ever got a second (like the Dog Ball Banana Wall scarefest).


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : The Prince of Pie Town AKA ... (V8)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 18, 2010

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Comments: This area is called Kong's Playground. The gritty V4 straight up the face is Kong.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Center (V7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 18, 2010

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Comments: I don't have firsthand knowledge, but the FA was reported as Jake Rothfork so we should ask him. I believe in both the source of the info and also Jake's ability to do it, especially after watching him do a harder, more dangerous problem on Dog Ball Banana Wall.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Direct (V4)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: I don't know if it ever had a name. I refer to it as the Frankenstien Dyno but that's a poor name because it's not too hard to static.

There's also another, easier problem just left of this one. Name unknown by me.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : The Poop Shoot (V9)
By: Bob Broilo When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: The upper easy section you refer to as the poop chute was originally called "Vampire cleft palate" V0 but don't fall.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Center (V7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: This is "Frankenstein Center"

Frankenstein right is the wicked hard highball over the bad landing
about 15 feet right of the start of this, although we should ask Jake for better info. Around the corner to the right is "Batman's Nipples" and "Robin's Codpiece". The short throw to the left of the Frankensteins is unnamed but we call it Frankenstein dyno. Often approached from the left.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Direct (V4)
By: Bob Broilo When: Oct 8, 2010

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Comments: This is "Frankenstein Left"


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Humpty Dumpty Wall : Bambi (5.11b)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 21, 2010

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Comments: Lower part seems cleaner now. However, removed biner from anchor to the left. Glue had failed, causing biner to get stuck in locked position. Then noticed that the gate had a big crack in it. Bring draws for top.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Liberace's Anus (5.9-)
By: Bob Broilo When: Feb 9, 2010

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Comments: It's not as much fun, but you can skip some of the runout by heading right and meeting the bolt above and to the right of the "garden". Prolly a bolt for the other climb. I tried it on a whim last week and it seemed somewhat safer.

We used to stick a stopper near the garden before going left and up. Bomber placement, and pretty easy to carry once you decide what size (I seem to remember #2, but don't bank on that), but I stopped taking the time at some point and usually just run it out.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Red Wall : ... : Photo
By: Bob Broilo When: Jan 7, 2010

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Comments: Hello Bill,

Yes this old topo is confusing to me too. Hopefully there was no large scale breakage on anybody... I too prefer the direct Redwall start, it is juggy and takes good gear.

As for the top of Spiderman P2, I have always just slung the tree as well.

Those days were cheap ones, with scarce bolt placements, and people raiding their previous routes for hardware to do new ones. Some cruddy old fixed pins have been pulled, and some fixed slings have rotted away. Also you can still fin... more >>


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