Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Alcohol Wall
By: Bob Broilo When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are big shiny new bolts on "Bottoms Up" that replaced the rusty old SMC spinners, not aware of any nearby to the left of that but haven't been to Alcohol wall in 2-3 weeks. B-52 still had the very high first bolt.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: May 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The smoke plume from the Whitewater/Baldy fire complex is slamming the Tower and Monster Island right now. Smoke is dense enough to fall in the "very unhealthy" to "hazardous" range (less than 1 mile visibility).
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the gate may be unlocked at times, I have been told by the landowner that the access through private land will be closed for a few weeks during the period of maximum fire danger. There is a sign on the gate. If you find the gate open or unlocked and chose to go in this way, you may find the gate locked when you try to leave.
This closure is in effect now and will last until sometime after July 4th (and the monsoons kick in). As soon as I know when I will post again. Fortunately, the... more >>
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Warm Up Solo (5.5)
By: Bob Broilo When: Sep 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: AKA the "death slab". Do not fall!
On the overhanging reddish West face there are two solo climbs. Both FAed by Eric "Peck" Heatwole. The right line is fun, 5.10ish, and somewhat clean and solid, but be very careful because a fall could easily kill you. The left line is harder, looser, and it's fun to hear Peck tell the story of the first ascent. A few years after these climbs started getting traffic someone put a single bolt on the top of the right line.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Spook Canyon : Spook Outlying Boulders : Substance P (V8)
By: Bob Broilo When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "substance P". Don't do it if there's an active bird's nest in the finish jug.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gate is locked on Friday 6/17/2011 with a note claiming "extreme fire hazard - no access to rock climbing".
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Fro... (5.11b)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't like this route a few years ago but it seems to have cleaned up a lot. I think it's pretty fun now. Missing some footholds but less sandy/gritty so grade is still about right.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island
By: Bob Broilo When: May 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian,
Yes, however none go straight up from Monster Island due to the bands of choss. There is a existing summit route that goes at 5.8-9. You can find info on the "Sawtooth Crags" topos hidden in a chewed-up medicine bottle in a hueco about 1/2 mile to the South of Monster Island near some sport routes. Some day I will post the pictures I took of them.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Bob Broilo When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding the hardware, there was a motivated local named James Hunter who was doing updates. He was focused on the anchors and fixed many of the sketchy older jobs. He has since moved away. Getting replacement gear is not a problem. The motivation to fight the crowds at the tower for the same old routes when there is so much other stuff to do, is. For the Socorro folks anyway. Also there is the ongoing effort to mitigate the effects of the many people who camp and poop there, which also g... more >>
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Spook Canyon : Spook Outlying Boulders
By: Bob Broilo When: Mar 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you read the intro to the guide it explains the shorthand used in the name block for the problem. (V4-V7) is the reported range of grades, while V4 is the consensus. That information is included for historical reasons, it's interesting to see how some problems are all reported the same grade and some vary wildly. One problem is V1 (V1-V9) but it's an inside joke :-).
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Harmonica Convention (AKA B... : Colon Blow (V0) : Photo
By: Bob Broilo When: Mar 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are correct this is way right of Super Colon Blow, but the day this pic was taken Jon did not send from the his chosen sit start. I don't know if he came back and completed, and if so I don't know the name. It is a completely seperate line from SCB.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Spook Canyon : Spook Outlying Boulders : Eric Scully (V4-5)
By: Bob Broilo When: Mar 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link is broken above due to ")" at end.
Try:
This one
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Center (V7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would have been 1995 or so, so I guess that's a long time ago. How did I get so old? Anyway, It doesn't look like it gets any traffic, so regardless, anyone attempting it should mos def watch for looseness! I don't know if it ever got a second (like the Dog Ball Banana Wall scarefest).
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : The Prince of Pie Town AKA ... (V8)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is called Kong's Playground. The gritty V4 straight up the face is Kong.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Center (V7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't have firsthand knowledge, but the FA was reported as Jake Rothfork so we should ask him. I believe in both the source of the info and also Jake's ability to do it, especially after watching him do a harder, more dangerous problem on Dog Ball Banana Wall.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Direct (V4)
By: Bob Broilo When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if it ever had a name. I refer to it as the Frankenstien Dyno but that's a poor name because it's not too hard to static.
There's also another, easier problem just left of this one. Name unknown by me.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : The Poop Shoot (V9)
By: Bob Broilo When: Oct 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper easy section you refer to as the poop chute was originally called "Vampire cleft palate" V0 but don't fall.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Center (V7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Oct 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "Frankenstein Center"
Frankenstein right is the wicked hard highball over the bad landing
about 15 feet right of the start of this, although we should ask Jake for better info. Around the corner to the right is "Batman's Nipples" and "Robin's Codpiece". The short throw to the left of the Frankensteins is unnamed but we call it Frankenstein dyno. Often approached from the left.
|
Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Direct (V4)
By: Bob Broilo When: Oct 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is "Frankenstein Left"
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Humpty Dumpty Wall : Bambi (5.11b)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jun 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower part seems cleaner now. However, removed biner from anchor to the left. Glue had failed, causing biner to get stuck in locked position. Then noticed that the gate had a big crack in it. Bring draws for top.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : Liberace's Anus (5.9-)
By: Bob Broilo When: Feb 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not as much fun, but you can skip some of the runout by heading right and meeting the bolt above and to the right of the "garden". Prolly a bolt for the other climb. I tried it on a whim last week and it seemed somewhat safer.
We used to stick a stopper near the garden before going left and up. Bomber placement, and pretty easy to carry once you decide what size (I seem to remember #2, but don't bank on that), but I stopped taking the time at some point and usually just run it out.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : Red Wall : Red Wall (5.7) : Photo
By: Bob Broilo When: Jan 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello Bill,
Yes this old topo is confusing to me too. Hopefully there was no large scale breakage on anybody... I too prefer the direct Redwall start, it is juggy and takes good gear.
As for the top of Spiderman P2, I have always just slung the tree as well.
Those days were cheap ones, with scarce bolt placements, and people raiding their previous routes for hardware to do new ones. Some cruddy old fixed pins have been pulled, and some fixed slings have rotted away. Also you can still fin... more >>
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : New Kids on the Block (5.10d)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jan 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The extension (or 2nd pitch if you break it up) is called "Inchworm Arete" 5.8/9, put up by Andy Mayer in October 1996. Nice exposure between bolts 2 and 3 beyond the New Kids ledge, a very cool section of climbing. Andy considered putting in two more bolts, one here and one before the anchor. He may have added those after the last time I climbed it (a long time ago) but didn't notate it if he did. The runouts didn't seem too bad.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : Red Wall : Red Wall (5.7)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jan 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I prefer going right to the Spiderman anchor and then up for P2. One can place enough gear (I think I got in 5 pieces once) to make it pretty safe but it takes time and usually I just put in one or two.
Going straight up from the Red Wall anchor can be loose and unpleasant, but there are bolts.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas : Chalk Fairy (5.11b)
By: Bob Broilo When: Jan 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this was put up by Jeff Putnam in 1988, but it could have been 1987-89.
|
RSS Feed
