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Member Since: Aug 5, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 26, 2016
Contact Bob Banks

Point Rank: # 2,395
Total Points: 301
Last Year: 9
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Banks been climbing?










Contributions


All 189 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts 16 | Stars 23 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Nightmares in French (V10-)
By: Bob Banks When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments:


This is the original Frenchman's Worst Nightmare. You could go to the crimp with either hand, right was a grade harder.

Funny, I was thinking about how one would use that block as a foothold and said to myself, "You'd have to be fricking sideways??" That sequence actually sounds pretty rad.

There aren't many boulder problems that I've done more than this one, probably only Yeti, The Extremist or Goldak are in the same ballpark. G... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Nightmares in French (V10-)
By: Bob Banks When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Pretty sure the description in O11 is "start on twin gastons", both of which are still there, although a LOT smaller than they used to be (used to be V7 I think, although I'd have to check Edwards' old book to be sure), then hit the crimp and dyno to the jug...2 moves and you're in Dissing Euros. Goes pretty much dead center of the face, I can't picture how you could be far enough over to even use the Pardon My French block as a foothold until you get higher on the wall. I know... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Nightmares in French (V10-)
By: Bob Banks When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Sounds to me like an exact description of Frenchman's Worst Nightmare.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Munson Boulders : Smugglers Run (V3-4)
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Reese climbed here in the 90s. Wills probably did as well. So did I, a grand total of twice. I last went after the fire in 01 or 02, I forget, it got pretty cleared out of vegetation so it was easier to walk around. It's pretty hard to justify stopping to climb on super-choss when you're so close to Pine Mt.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: You must be fun at parties.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Mystical Steps Towards Deat... (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: I always had it pretty wired, but then I was never that great at climbing until it came to lowballs with deadpoints on small crimps, which I somehow was pretty good at.

Beta vid, unknown date, probably 1999 or 2000. Video by Steve Edwards. Play-by-play commentary by Steve and Reed Bartlett, who was presumably spotting, but was more likely drinking a beer with one hand and holding my beer in the other. Had I fallen, his job was to not spill any beer.




Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Whiplash (V11)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: Yes, Wills did the FA in late 1996 early '97. Several years passed before it saw a second ascent and a shitload of people tried it.

Also, the sidepull hold for the left did not exist until sometime in the last few years. I mean, it existed, but it was not anything remotely possible to hold onto. I'm not saying it was chipped, but it wasn't useable like it is now (and yes, we tried). So take that into consideration. Not sure how people are doing the problem now, but there's tons of chalk on that... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Everything is online now. Go to Ventura County Assessor website, click on the "GIS interactive" map, find your spot, click the icon to add parcel numbers. As I recall, National Forest/public land is generally well marked. Private land: through the APN # you can request info from the VCA, they will respond via email.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: Bob Banks When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the compliment Seth, always good to hear from my admirers. Promise I won't forget that Christmas card this year. But it seems like if you were going to wipe your ass with the pages of my book, a wiser decision would have been to start tearing them out at the back, beginning with the picture of me, and carry on through The Swimming Hole section which is, without question, even less useful than the rest of it. But I dunno, maybe the flies in the Pine Mountain shitter had you fr... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: That's a terrific name Tim!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : King Dinosaur (V7)
By: Bob Banks When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: Wills did a lower start eons ago, but I wouldn't call it a "sit". Said it was V9ish I recall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Bob Banks When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: I encourage the climbing community to cast their votes. Civilly, please.

Hmmm....no, thanks.

Whoever did this needs to be waterboarded with buffalo sperm, period. Luckily, shit like this (unlike graffitti/chiseling) is easily erased.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: "I think no matter how we climbed the line or what we called it people would still complain."

That speaks volumes.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Stolen From Mike (5.9+) : Photo
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Best thing I've seen in ages. Pure awesomeness.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Bitch Free Zone (5.11a/b)
By: Bob Banks When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Climbing is filled with unsavory/offensive/dumb names. In all the ninnying about the name, something of actual relevance has been glossed over (emphasis mine, as per usual):

"The route was cleaned and worked on top rope and then bolted on lead."

Huh?

"new route is open but needs a lot more cleaning.Eric free climbed on lead right after we spent 4 or 5 hours bolting up the head wall."

Again, huh?

If you're going to drop a rope down and clean/wo... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: I don't even recognize that dude.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : 911 (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: It's funny how this one seems to have become a pretty popular problem, as I never really gave it that much thought.

This obvious sit-start to Slope-a-Dope was first done by a Swiss crankenfrank named Mike Tscharner who stayed with us for a while. He named it 911 because that was the address of the house that we lived in after we got booted from The Castle. He'd heard some crazy stories about our lifestyle back then (from other mutual Swiss friends), and I distinctly r... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 13, 2014

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Comments: No idea about Tank Murdock Sean. I can barely even remember what it looks like.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Gyroscope (V8)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: gyroscope
.

Gyroscope, an all-time favorite. The Pine Mountain classic boulder problem with the legendary Ratso spot.

This one's for Steve and Phil.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Hey Sean, would be interested to know which left-hand start hold you normally used, since it obviously isn't the blocky undercling I always used?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Yes, no doubt The Brickyard is actually 'less' fully realized than before the Gap Fire. It's so overgrown you can barely get to The Far Left Area or The HST problems, all good stuff that used to be on the circuit, now never gets climbed. Every time I walk down there I miss the old trail. C'est la vie.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Sorry if you wrote that article Grover, but that magazine (and the article) is wank. I hadn't seen a California Climber since the first crappy issue and had forgotten about it until now. Hasn't gotten any better. Had the author visited The Tor more than once? He couldn't pick up a guidebook, or use Google to find out how to spell Phil's name? "Anonymous locals?" (all of whom have names and are easily found in at least two guidebooks). Can be climbed in harsh winter conditions"? Ummm...huh... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: The left hand start hold used to be a pretty good block/undercling that broke off a few years ago. A bit of it is still there, but nothing like the original. The original right hand broke off also, as discussed up the thread. Found some video of me in my younger years making it look fairly easy. No doubt I couldn't pull my ass off the ground these days.

Dissing Euros
.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Clawing at the Walls (V7)
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I don't know that it's "off", but you certainly haven't done Clawing At The Walls if you use it.

Regardless, I saw your sequence picture Tim...ok, the shirt is a little stylish, but the shorts don't make the cut. See the Edwards and Crozier photos for proper ascent attire. Buck-up and send like a man, sans the homo-jug.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Welcome to the Darkside (V11)
By: Bob Banks When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I made my once every few years trip to Pine Mountain this last weekend and managed to get a tour of some of the north-side bouldering from "Trad-Bob".

I have to say that this is a STELLAR, STELLAR boulder problem. This is so good it makes me want to get fit again. Well done. Would be interested to know about the line to the right as well...looks like it has a scary big dyno finish? Super rad line as well. Great find Sean et. al.!


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