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Member Since: Jul 9, 2001
Last Visit: Oct 16, 2003
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Point Rank: # 3,989
Total Points: 109
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bob Archbold been climbing?










Contributions


All 47 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 34 | Posts | Stars 5 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Sandberg Peak
By: Bob Archbold When: Oct 16, 2003

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Comments: I was up in the Needles today (13/16/03) and Sandberg Peak is still intact.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 20, 2003

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Comments: To the Anonymous Coward Your underground lore is very incorrect. I would say that I was not over my head, but rather not very rich in 1979 to on that particular day that I climbed Trojan Determination I only had a total of two bolts to my name along with a small selection of pitons for doing that route. I sat at the bottom of the route examining the route and making the best plan for using the reources I had at hand. I planned to go up the trough then exit early to get to a location where I coul... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 16, 2002

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Comments: BEWARE, BEWARE, BEWARE!!!!!!! Some one is chopping routes of their bolts in the Rushmore Area. Ron Yahne and I have been diligently replacing bad bolts and anchors for the last three years in the Rushmore area to make the area SAFE. We are now discontinuing our bolt replacement and Anchor replacement program. We WILL NOT replace or repair any bolts or anchors. Apparently someone doesn't like the bolts there. But beware, THERE ARE ALOT OF BAD BOLTS AND ANCHORS in the Rushmore area that still need... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Cavity : Stormy Night (5.7)
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 13, 2002

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Comments: The anchors have been lowered so to not have to do the last few feet of the chimney


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Two : East Face (5.6)
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 8, 2002

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Comments: You can rap the route with just one 165ft (50m) rope easily.you'll do it in three rappels. A 55m or 185 is rope left over.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 4, 2002

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Comments: For those of you who are interested a guidebook is in the proces of being written for Spearfish Canyon. It should be published and out by next spring (03). That is what the author as said that his plans are anyways. He has already done a lot of work on the book.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Bob Archbold When: Sep 2, 2002

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Comments: That flake is totally worthless, it is cracked most of the way. I don't even stand on it. The easiest climbing of the climb is getting to the pins, it's just that your are getting a little ways off the ground. Just remember the moves do get harder as you get higher with the last moves to the pins being about 5.6


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Critical View : Critical View (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: This route use to be definately 5.8. But through the course of erosion and the missing stone the start has gotten harder. The ground use to be at least 18 inches higher aqt the base of the rock. I use to be able to walk up to the route and step right up on the big knob. Now I have to make some interesting moves to get on it. Then there was a cheater stone at it's base for awhile which is now gone too.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 30, 2002

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Comments: You are correct, Rich Goldstone did the first free ascent of the Needles Eye along with Don Storjohann. The direct start from the parking lot was first done by Renn Fenton. Vern Phinney didn't know that Renn did it first when he did the route and placed the bolt. Now Dennis Horning did the real scary route of going to the top of the eye itself and exiting towards the summit. This route is real scary, if you feel brave go for it. To lead it once was enough for me.

But the First ascent of the Spi... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Needle's Eye (5.8 X)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 20, 2002

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Comments: When you get to the fixed pitons long runner both of them or the rpoe drag will get you. If you long runner both pitons the rope will run a lot smoother.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: As of 8/19/02 the Rushmore area has been getting smoke from the Battle Creek Fire. It all depends on which direction the wind wants to blow on your particular day. I spent the night on the southern flank working the line it wasn't to bad, but the northern division were getting worked hard with a lot of active burning.

Highway 16 out of Rapid City is CLOSED at Catron Blvd. Basically at the Rapid City City limits. The fire had jumped the highway at the Keystone Wye, or intersection. Large areas o... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Baba Cool (5.9+)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: In my opinion Bab Cool is 10a. Even though Vern Phinney in his guide book has it rated as 9+. But then most of the 9+'s in Vern's book are 10a. The 10+'s are also 11a


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 18, 2002

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Comments: Things just get lost with time. As time goes by the little things or even some of the big things get lost. There are only a few of us left from when the Agreement happened. Is someone around that can truly remember how Ceaser(SP) really ruled Rome. That is what has happened around here. Even though a few of us do try to remind people of it or educate them courteously about it.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed August 5, 1965 by Bob Kamps with Mark and Beverly Powell. This is a great climb in the mornings of a really hot day since it will stay cool for sometime. This is also one of the few Needles routes that will form a line of climbers waiting to do it.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Sharkstooth : Boxcars and Airplanes (5.6)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed from the ground up in 1990 by Bob Archbold and Dave Green


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Reef 1 : Old Number 8 (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed from the ground up by Mike and Rusty Lewis.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Reef 1 : Way Cool Junior (5.7)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: The first ascent of this route was done in 1985 by Mike Nona and Brad Edwards


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Campground Boulder : Classic Corner (V4)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: John Gill also did the FA of this boulder problem.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Fanghorn Hills : Hrum Hroom (5.7)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: The first ascent of this route was done by Paul Muehl and Pete DeLanoy in the mid-1980's


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Gnomon : Doody Direct (5.8)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: This route was first climbed in the 1960's by a Wyoming climber by the name of Dan Doody. Doody eventually died in Peru from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. He rode to altitude in a vehicle to fast and died. He also was on the first ascent of Bloody Spire in 1957.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Four : Sprire Four (5.4)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: In 32 years of climbing in the Needles I have never heard of Fraggle Rock getting into the 3.4 gully. I believe they may be a little confused for you do go by Thunder Rock, Freak's Fright, Aku Aku and Teeter Totter Rock. Must be some else's pet name for something.

The worm hole can appear small. But I was with a climber that weighed 22o pounds and he went through one year in October. He did have to undress a bit to get through, actually he undressed alot. He had to take his jacket and sweater o... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Ice Climbing : Honey Bear : Honey Bear Main Flow (WI3)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 14, 2002

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Comments: Just for history sake. Paul Piana did the first ascent in about 1978/79. He wrote an article for Climbing Magazine about it in around the same time.

Honey Bear falls of course was named for Honey Bear pool which it flows into. This pool was created by a small dam that was constructed a man that moved herre from Wisconsin named John Raeck. John also called himself the "Vagabond Poet", then later he called himself "Sylvan lake John". John was also the person who create the "Poet's Table" and "Par... more >>


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Outer Outlet : Conn Diagonal (5.7)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 14, 2002

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Comments: If you want to make the traversing 2nd pitch a little more exciting do the overhang. That is after you pass the kidney stone on the traverse go up from there through the small overhang. Then after the overhang just go over to the lightning hand crack to finish. This goes about 10a. The route as a whole without a doubt is one of the best routes that the Conns did, along with their route on East Gruesome.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Inner Outlet : Wiessner Chimney (5.6)
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 13, 2002

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Comments: This route is far from being a classic in my book. To me grunts are not classics. I have done this route and I have successfully avoided since. There are other routes on Inner Outlet that are better such as the Conn's Retable route on Inner Outlet. I would give this route zero stars or maybe a negative 3 stars


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye
By: Bob Archbold When: Aug 13, 2002

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Comments: THE AGREEMENT The Needle's climbers have always had a strong sense of approaching the rock on its terms and to also have respect for the rock and Custer State Park. About 1988, before any Black Hills Climbers Coalition, before any climber's versus land managers' issues the local climbing community had a significant watershed event meeting. Sport climbing had made a very large impact along with the power drill at Mount Rushmore. To preserve the tradition of the Needles, but not to impede on the d... more >>


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