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Member Since: Jan 5, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,558
Total Points: 432
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 264 | Routes 19 | Areas 4 | Photos 28 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 38 | Posts 53 | Stars 91 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : Ort Wall : ... : Photo
By: bmdhacks When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I believe Geronimo has it's own anchor


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, if not a bit scary!

I'm a Medium-level 5.7 leader. I had no trouble leading Birdland or Big Bad Wolf, but this route terrified me. I could handle most of the runout (only placed 2 pieces on p1), but there's just so much of it. The harder parts were P2 and the final dihedral. I overprotected on both of those and had to pitch-out midway in a hanging belay. We totaled 7 pitches, but I could have done it in 5 or 6. Really glad I brought a C4 #4 for the last pitch, didn't ne... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Regular Route (5.8 PG13)
By: bmdhacks When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: This is the safest way to ascend the top, and provides access to toprope all the anchors to the left of this climb. I felt the most danger was before the first bolt on the first pitch, and the remaining runouts were super easy climbing / ledge traverses.

I brought gear but found no placements.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Sign Language (5.10c)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: I took a stupid fall off the rock belaying and broke my foot. We had to abandon three quickdraws there. I live in SF if anybody feels like being gracious.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Lieback (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Be sure to inspect the tat at the top. At the time of this writing, the upper tree cluster had a hollow rap ring that was worn through and sharp as a blade. The lower-left tree had good tat but one of the rap rings was 3/4 worn through. A 70m rope gets you down from the bottom station, but might not get you there from the top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : The Hand : Love Line (5.10b/c)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't call the first pitch runout. The bolt spacing increases after the 4th bolt, but it's a fairly safe vertical fall. The bolts do seem to be just after all of the cruxy moves, and my partner and I took a few whippers trying to project the first pitch. We started up the second pitch but I downclimbed after pulling off a sizable jug just beyond the second bolt. Ah Pinnacles.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : Senior Wall : Senior Citizen (5.9)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, but there's a pretty sizable column of rock that doesn't have much attaching it to the wall. I pulled and stepped on it pretty hard and it flexed and held, but just be careful up there. You'll know you're at it when you can reach around behind it from both sides.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Harry ... (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: We approached from the right into the rotten corner up to the bush/tree with tat. I do not recommend this, despite what supertopo shows. Here's a better route: scramble up to the first ledge by the dead tree. Next, move left along the ledge until you see some nice slab/scramble moves on better rock closer to the base of the climb.

Also, for descent, you can rappel on two 60 meter ropes from the first anchors down to that first ledge. Traverse west to the dead tree and scramble down.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Big Pucker (5.10d R)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: This shares an anchor with, and is a nice toprope after leading the easier 5.9 The Wet Kiss.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: I went too far on the first pitch and belayed in the top of the right gulley at the top of the wide crack, and then only had a short run for the second pitch. Basically ran my 60m rope to it's end. Next time I'd belay 15ft lower down and move left onto the face earlier.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Clark Canyon : Area 13 : ... : More Trad Than Rad (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: The anchor for this is easily accessed by climbing up from Chupacabras. We found this climb to be an excellent toprope, a brilliant combination of crack and face moves.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: such a fun climb to be kinda ruined by the disgusting magnitude of shit smeared all over it


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: bmdhacks When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: The start can be protected ok with just a .5 and a #3. I threw in a #4 as well but it was a bit tipped out.

Watch your rope drag if doing it in one pitch, the top slab got... interesting.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Presence (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: Got on this route while trying to climb Visionaries and loved it. Rapped the route with one 60m. If you want, you could traverse on the ledge at the end of P2 and climb the last pitch of Visionaries.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Sticky Revelations (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch has a fork after the first two bolts. Going right will get you to the base of P2. Going left is equally fun but you'll end up at the base of the trad dihedral route, or you'll have to traverse 10 feet on a small ledge to the start of pitch 2.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Winds of Fire (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: If you extend your anchor to hang down below the prow, you'll get zero rope drag on toprope and lowering. It's only a foot or two below the chains and has line-of-sight to the belayer. Bring a bit of cordelette and you'll be fine.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Late for Dinner (5.6)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: It's just new. Don't worry, before long it will be polished all to hell like Rockapella. For now, it's an interesting contrast between the two to see how the rock changes from overuse.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Chomping at the Bit (5.11a)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: I'm 6'2" 195lbs, and tackled the bottom with enough thrashing to churn butter, desperately cranking on the thin flakes at the bottom. Everything held solid, so I'd say don't worry about them.

It goes about 10a/b after the first three bolts. The finger crack was quite fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Short Circuit (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: Note that even the shortest of people can get to the first hold by tugging on the first bolt. I did it to test the hold before stepping back down and making the jump. The rest of the climb is quite fun. A note to timid leaders such as myself: I placed a lot of gear, around 6 pieces from .75 C4 on down, so bring enough if you want to sew it up.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : Grease & Grime Wall : Grease & Grime (5.10b)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 20, 2012

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Comments: Ok, I took the warning out of the description. Just a note that around the time of this comment, I pulled off four or five huge holds and feet. A major hold on the roof pull was loose, and the light colored rock at the top was quite chossy. However, I'm 6' 2" at 195lbs so that could be a contributing factor.


Location: CA : High Desert : Hercules Finger
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: Looks like the lat/long has been fixed.

The directions given are a bit complex. I just took Camp Rock Road north and turned right on the powerline road. Followed the powerline until I could see Hercules Finger on the left and parked as close as I could get. The sand is deep in places so be careful with your vehicle selection. I took 2wd Ford Escape with bald tires and made it pretty close.

This google maps route is how I did it:
goo.gl/maps/0UcCl


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : 29th Street
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: Just to add some clarification on where the climbs are. When you hike up from 29th street, the first wall you reach contains Safety Goggles, Overlooked, 8 Ball Corner Pocket, and Loose Shingles. From there, if you continue ascending the hill you will hit the Bonneville Shoreline Trail. Uphill from the trail are climbs on three distinct rock features. On the left is Rustbucket and Gilbert. The aesthetic towerish thing in the middle has Upstairs, and the mossy looking wall on the right has Mo... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : The Schoolroom
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: I wouldn't really call the Utahnics wall approach line a 4th class climb. Seemed like 5.2 to me. Not the sort of thing I could easily do in boots with a backpack containing my rope, lunch, and gear.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a)
By: bmdhacks When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Note that you can climb up Raindance and then walk over to this climb's anchors to rappel and toprope.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Schoolroom Area : The Horny Thing (5.10b)
By: bmdhacks When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: If the cruxy start on this gives you some trouble, you can merge in to this route from either right or left. Either of these options goes at around 5.9, maybe a bit harder. Then you can toprope the start of this climb. I like starting on Chocolate Doobie and then stepping over the gap, it's a fun alternative.


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