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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Main Wall : Undercover (5.7)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If climbing straight up from the belay past two bolts, there is a thin 5.8 or 5.9 move, but once in the crack, it's 5.7 to the next belay.
The best Mt. Erie Multipitch is Zig Zag p1, Undercover for p2, and Springboard or Eagle's wings for p3
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Location: WA : Mount Erie : Main Wall : Frogs in Space (5.11b)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably one of the top 3 best pitches at Mt. Erie
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : Lovin' Arms (5.10c A0)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also can be rappelled with a 70m rope when parties are not below you.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Upper Town Wall : Lovin' Arms (5.10c A0) : Photo
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It;s funny how this pitch looks so dirty and grungy, but it doesn't climb that way at all and is probably one of the most popular pitches on the entire upper town wall.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Starlight (5.12d)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know how stable or safe the flake is? We were afraid to get on the route today because it looks detached at all edges, and appears to be a KEY jug on the route. The wall is too steep to inspect it while rapping off other climbs.
Today I backed up the top bolt of the hard/continuous climbing with a purple sling and locker around a monster horn.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : Storm (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb 'ends' at the 2nd of two bolts with fixed carabiners, which are part of the route 'Starlight' - coming in from the left. It could be continued (via much easier climbing) to anchors up right or left. Today I backed up the top bolt of the hard/continuous climbing with a purple sling and locker around a monster horn. This climb is awesome, but definitely NOT easier for short people. Long reach helps!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a classic. A couple thoughts:
It can be rapped with one 60 rope.
P1 - Can climb Nordwand or Too, both are great, both around 35m.
P2 - If comfortable soloing solid 5.4, it might be safer to unrope for this pitch, and climb with the rope coiled up. Several ledges with loose gravel and blocks exist. Watch your rope from knocking this off. There is a single bolt low on this pitch, then a 2-bolt anchor at the base of the steep wall, or a second 2-bolt anchor slightly higher. It wor... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few days ago my friend and I made an attempt to lead cleanly (OS or RP) every pitch at Little Eiger. We did all but 7 or so, before the rain started pouring. It was a fun day and I think a lot of crags in CCC would lend themselves to this kind of training day.
We didn't do either of the two chossy 30' crack climbs on the far left... anyone done these in the last few years?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a route! I could believe it as the best in Colorado. So many pitches would be *** at a crag. However, I think it's more along the lines of grade III+ or IV-, a bivy is definitely not standard.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Splash (5.11c/d)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The two-bolt boulder problem (V1 if short?) is the crux of the climb. I didn't find any 5.11 past the first 15 feet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Bat's Ass Dihedral (5.11a PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good finish to Rincon. Feels very soft for the grade if you are ok on steep+good holds. Not sure why this gets a PG-13. Partner and I both found it one of the most well-protected 5.11s in Eldo. The face just below the underlcling is steep enough so that you wont hit it if you fall at the crux. If this rock was more slabby, I could see it being PG-13.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : The Gunsight Range
By: blakeherrington When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, someone from Golden Colorado has enough knowledge/interest of this place to be concerned about the approach. Crazy!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Headline (5.10a)
By: blakeherrington When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: *** for the climbing, and a huge thumbs down for the bolted crack.
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : SW Rib (5.8)
By: blakeherrington When: May 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best way to reach the base of the slanting wide crack (listed here as P1) is to begin at a Y-shaped Larch tree, then follow corners and cracks straight up. (5.8)
A second option for pitch #1 is to the left of this, and is .10b gear-protected face, with some flakes and cracks.
Above the wide slanting crack (pitch #1 here) you can also go straight up and climb a three-star 5.10- finger crack.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Sunset (5.11)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ignore the description.
Desert Sunset starts in a blocky/sandy area the bulge to the right of 'SPAM'. Walk down the hillside a little so you can see the splitter cracks at the top before you start.
Following face climbing and edges, up a finger or hand crack in a flake, on he right. It would be possible to go straight up, but rock quality looked a bit better further left toward the corner. Work up/right to the base of the steep twin cracks, where rock quality and cleanliness improves dramatica... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Chest Full of Kind (5.10)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a flake halfway up the route with an "X" drawn on it. My partner an I both tested it and can't imagine it coming off anytime soon. Perhaps don't yank on the bottom lip as an undercling. It's possible to slide gear past the flake so that it isn't pressed on by a cam.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1/P2 can be linked. From atop p2, a ~65m pitch goes to the summit. I thought that the crux, if climbed straight up, then rightward (long reach to pin scar and desperate pull) felt harder than 5.11a. My partner worked right and then up (past one more pin and another new bolt) and said it felt less strenuous.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is "The Flake" - http://www.mountainproject.com/v/international/canada/britis>>>>>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of pitches, including #1 and #2 can link with a 70m rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can climb this in 3 pitches with a 70m.
P1 - Do the 5.10 direct start and up the p2 dihedral to a tree (35m).
P2 - Arete, corner, right traverse, corner, hand traverse, corner (68m).
P3 - Up to the top, less rope drag with the 5.10 variation. Belay from summit. (50m)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unknown (5.11)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route is called "Cold Corner" 5.11c
Very fun, one of the best routes at the wall, and not your typical IC repetition.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Main Wall : Tatoosh (5.10b)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You need a 70m rope to rap/lower/TR this one. You *might* be able to swing over to intermediate anchors on Thin fingers to get back to the ground if you only have a 60m.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : Main Wall : Godzilla (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can DEFINITELY reach the ground in one rappel with a 60m rope. Just go straight to the ground and you'll be fine, its 30m straight down. 60m ropes aren't long enough to have the leader lower off the ground, so belay from the anchors.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Hairway to Stephen (5.11a)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 60m WILL NOT get you down.
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Location: WA : Newhalem
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To Reach the wall:
Park on the South side of Hwy20, at the East end of "town".
Walk along hwy 20 for ~150yrds to a trail on the left, which leads to the wall in about 30 seconds.
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