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Member Since: Dec 12, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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blakeherrington
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Total Points: 1,129
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 571 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 85 | Page Improvements | Comments 119 | Posts 115 | Stars 134 | Ratings 64
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Vesper Peak : Ragged Edge (5.7)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Ragged Edge and True Grit (along with several other new moderate routes) are featured in a new full color PNW guidebook called Cascades Rock . The guidebook has route descriptions and topos, as well as driving, approach, and descent info. Available Here


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Outer Space (along with the nearby 5.8 Orbit) are featured in a new full color PNW guidebook called Cascades Rock . The guidebook has route descriptions and topos, and also describes the non-technical backside descent off Snow Creek Wall, and the option to rappel back to the base. Available Here


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Rise and Fall (5.12a/b)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Bolts replaced in spring '16.
Most were original plated steel from '90 or '91, though the crux bolt of the crux pitch (first independent pitch) was a newer stainless.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Rattlesnake Rock : Zweibles (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: This is a fun pitch with a little V4 crimp crux getting going, then some redpoint cruxes passing the roof.
It's nice to have long draws hanging on the last 2 bolts. It's a fully bolted sport climb.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : South Early Winters Spire : The Hitchhiker (5.11-)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: In reference to the topos and description in Cascades Rock (which I wrote):

  • James Ellis is correct and Cascades Rock has a typo - P8 as described on Page 172 should say .10b not .11b - the topo on Page 173 has it correct where it says ".10 steep hands".

  • The mystery bolts and anchors on the face to the left of The Passenger and Hitchhiker are in the vicinity of (or on the lower part of) a likely unrepeated aid route called "The Midnight Ride"@...
 more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka ... (5.11b/c R)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 19, 2016

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Comments: In 1963 I think basically the entire pitch was the "direct aid" portion of the pitch. Graded 5.7 A3, I'd guess that only the top few meters were free climbed.

I think the specific mention of placing and aiding from bolts, a RURP and a KB isn't meant to imply that the remaining +/- 20 pitons were used as freeclimbing pro in a modern sense, but rather that the pitch required some atypical or specialized aid gear in addition to the normal rack of arrows, angles, etc.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Hangdog (5.11b/c)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: It's been onsighted.

On the Castle continuum, this one feels somewhere around the MF overhang in terms of difficulty. Easier than Das, Rainshadow, or No Such Thing. Pretty hard for .11a though! Nice work John & Tom.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : ** Bouldering in Tumwater C... : Pitless Avocado : ... : Joe's Crimper (V7)
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: The sharp "ear" below the top broke off at some point just after the updated guidebook was written. It's still possible to do this problem at original ~V7 grade via a couple opposing sidepulls.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: You don't need much gear at all for this route, even if linking pitches. For an onsight rack, placing everythign worthwhile, it's just a few pieces (total) across all 4 leads.

P1 - the crux piton is hard to see and hard to clip if you're short. Locate it from the base. Any other possible gear looks worthless. Higher up past the choss and piton #2 there's a good finger-sized crack. 1 draw, 1 sling, 1 small cam. Don't slip!

P2 - 2 draws. Nowhere for anything else on this tiny pitch.

P3 - ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Good Girls Like Bad Boys (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments:


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Midnight Rock : Dagoba System (5.12b PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: All hardware replaced fall '14.

Best pitch in Leavenworth?


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : M&M wall (AKA "Supercave Wa... : The L & H Route (Free Varia... (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Big ups to Langdon and Hargis on putting up this route in 1969. Their "5.6 friction" on p3 would have been gripping in mountain boots carrying a rack of iron up the wall.

There's an alternate last pitch that we tried and I bailed from which would be a fun independent topout. After P6 step right and climb the steep slanting crack up and left, then zig back hard right on face and slab climbing to the summit. This would likely require a few bolts or else a lot of boldness. I believe that the right... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : White Wall : Thunderstruck (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Amazing sculpted holds with the classic redpoint crux going to the anchors...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Puppy Chow (5.12c)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: I wish that the headwall climbing would go on for another pitch. Incredible 3-part journey with good shakes in between, and totally unforgettable moves.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's ... (5.12d)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Amazing pitch - really world class. The 2 boulder problems (V5?) come after some good warmup moves, and the headwall is too good to be true.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Rainshadow Direct (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: A slightly easier and probably better version (.12a?) steps right on the big ledge and finishes via Das Muzak rather than the bizarre boulder problem on Rainshadow.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : Cherche La Femme (5.10a)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: .10a to lower-off #1

3? more bolts and ~.11b to lower-off #2 (v3ish)

many more bolts and v7ish (.13b) to lower off #3 (AKA Van Halen)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Zeke's Wall : Mortal Coil (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I thought P3 (.11+) was harder than P4 (.12-) but the first is a slab foot traverse with no hands, and the other is a finger crack traverse with no feet. Good route!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: This could easily be the best finger crack in Washington.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : The Hurt Locker (5.12d)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Amazing, beautiful, long(!) pitch with great stone up high. I too found it hard to stay on the arete after the rest and chain draw shared with Meridian. Stepping over to Meridian and back left to the anchor made for a continuous mid-5.12 version. Keep a couple draws on you, even when you hit the long steep section of fixed draws. You'll need them again at the top. The boulder problem staying on the arete at the very end felt desperate!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Klaus Von Bulow and the Alg... (5.10c)
By: blakeherrington When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Easier approach is to climb to the base of Slow Children and walk 5m left.
The real Claus Von Bulow is spelled with a C, and has quite a story behind his infamy.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Tantric Bazooka (5.11d)
By: blakeherrington When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: The two bolts near the wafer flake were added with the FA's permission. The undercling moves rightward to join TPMV are trivial (jug-to-jug) if you're over 5'10" or so, and become a desperate boulder problem if you're short, making this more like solid 5.12 or 5.12+.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Deal with it Ranger (5.11a/b)
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: You can also continue up the same major corner system ending in a finger crack on the right, to an anchor atop P2 Godzilla (aka Leapin' Lizards) - and from there you can continue via Slow Children (far left) or P3 of City park (middle) or Park Ranger (above).

Climbed to this point, Deal With it Ranger is an excellent 50m 5.11a/b.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Amandla (5.13c)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is amazing - it has to be one of the best single pitches of granite climbing anywhere. Definitely end this by climbing up and over the roof (either rightward or leftward), it provides a final redpoint crux just after anchor #1, and seems like the only logical finish. The original anchor spot doesn't make any sense. As to the 13a vs 13c question (depending on if you step right into Iron horse) There isn't an easy or obvious way to escape over into the Iron Horse flare. It may be ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Tadpole (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is mega classic, but never gets done!

If you just climb Princely and then do a 5.5 rightward traverse for 10-15m you're standing at the base.


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