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Member Since: Dec 12, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact blakeherrington


Point Rank: # 535
Total Points: 1,070
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 28
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All (494) | Routes (43) | Areas (9) | Photos (86) | Comments (75) | Posts (101) | Stars (122) | Ratings (58)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Iron Horse (5.11d)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Despite the description above, most folks find the crux to be getting OFF the slab stance, or pulling into the chimney just below the first anchor. There's nothing in the flare or the roof above which is nearly as hard as several of the lower moves below anchor #1. The blocky roof after anchor #2, rated .11c or .12a in the two guidebooks, is more like 5.10+. It must be a misprint or maybe even Index has a token over-graded pitch. You can lower back to the ground from anchor #3 ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Topout beta / Rainbow Wall Link Beta

From the standard end of the route after the hand crack:

P6 - Overhanging ~.12d on sandy rock and fragile flakes - easily pulled through due to close bolts. Also easily combined with the 35m hand crack pitch below.

P7 - Climb the smooth 5.10 OW/Squeeze above, which would be hard to protect with anything smaller than a #6, and even that might not work. Or simply walk to the right 10m and then follow a 5.easy corner leftish to the same large led... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: 70m Rap Beta if you top out: Rap Prince of Darkness, a stone's throw to the left. A couple raps are super close to 35m

70m Rap beta from atop P4: We bailed easily from atop P4 by rapping rightish to join Sour Mash (30m Rap), then made 3-4 raps straight down to the ground.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Model Worker (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: The full P1 is ~40m (an 80m might let you lower off, but I doubt it). You can easily lower to the short (~15m) anchors on Model Worker or the anchors atop Numbah Ten and belay from either before rapping. Several moves before the short anchor each feels harder to me than the move on the 2nd part of the pitch.

A good 5.11 continuation is via Tadpole and Newest Industry.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : The Country Area : ... : Angora Grotto (5.11a)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: The bolt protecting the roof move ( below climber's left foot in the photo) is visibly corroded. Other bolts on this thing may be bad as well - they have the same KONG hangers which lead to total failure under bodyweight on an UTW route or two.

There are adequate gear opportunities to lead this without worrying too much, but I wouldn't place much faith in the bolts themselves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: I'll preface my comment by saying I've never placed a single bolt, yet I have found myself bailing from (and completing) quite a few new pitches in Colorado and elsewhere. I have a the utmost respect for the history of routes and feel that as a rule, the style of the FA should be respected and the route not altered from the state achieved on the FA without explicit permission from the FA team. That said, this route never had a FA in the current definition of the term.

Pink-pointing a route on p... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Thin Red Line (Free Version... (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: I like a generic "5.12" grade - both of the 5.12 pitches are body size dependent, but in different ways, and both are going to feel much easier or harder depending on one's strengths so overall it makes for a good climb that requires some tech, some power, some crack skills, and some face climbing. I've climbed this route now with 4 other people and everyone has had their own personal crux somewhere different. You can also easily rappel from atop P5 (the second 5.12pitch) with a single 70m.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Colchuck Balanced Rock : West Face (5.12-)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: Route gets sun only very late in the day. Hot days in mid summer are best. Long corner and roof traverse tend to seep in early season.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Der Sportsman (5.11+)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: If you have two ropes and wanted to rappel the South Side as suggested above, there are in-situ anchors to the left of 'Der', in or just right-of the big corner. We made it in three double-rope raps (the second one being about 65m). Gear and slings left on 'Der' will probably just get bootied by future parties.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Solid Gold (5.11a)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 11, 2013

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Comments: P2 and P3 as described above can link with a 70m.

If you want to keep your pack light for the long hike in, this route protects great with gear from tips to a #1 camalot.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fall Line (5.13-) : Photo
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 3, 2013

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Comments: I took this with the gimmicky little pretend tilt shift mode on a canon s100.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Stern Farmer (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: Yet another variation is to move left after the anchor and reach the 2nd crux of Japanese gardens from directly below, climbing out the flake. I've heard this variation called "Sushi Farmer" and you'll want whatever gear you like on Stern, plus a hand and finger cam and a few long slings. If both of these climbs were already 4-stars, this variation is off the end of the quality scale.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Blood on the Tracks (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: Glad you guys had fun on the route! I like mossy thrutching (truly) but I see how P1 might be a bit of a downer for most folks.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Unknown 1 (5.10)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 18, 2012

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Comments: This climb is much more interesting and entertaining than it looks.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : JR Token (5.10)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: The fullest-value version of JR:

Start in a finger crack/shallow left-facing corner on the left side of the broken pillar, which is 5.10 liebacking off the ground. Climb the normal route. From the anchor, step left into a steep finger crack with face holds, which leads up into a corner and on to the 2nd anchor at the very top of the wall. This is TR-able with a 70m rope, but not a 60 unless you do all sorts of pillar-scrambling shenanigans and other scary stuff.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Suzuki (5.10+)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: This route has a fun extension. We had hoped to stay in the contrived finger crack, but a few stacks of blocks convinced us to use the corner. With a few minutes of easy trundling, the finger crack would be good to go. From a belay on the rim, we walked right to the JR Extension anchors and rapped.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Narrow Arrow Overhang (5.12d PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Ben Gilkison did the FA/FFA - in 2008 and gave a grade of "hard .13a" (someone else agreeing on .13- ). Chris Schlotfelt pulled the pins and cleanly TRed the (formerly C1) section above the second anchor, calling the moves .12d.

The climbing above the anchor is just a few meters of 5.8 chimneying with hand cracks to a pedestal ledge. It's easy to reach the anchor between P2 and P3 of NAD, or to step left to the anchor below Salad F... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Numbah Ten (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 11, 2012

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Comments: I brought a wire brush and gave Numbah Ten a good scrubbing the other day, removing some moss and a large huckleberry bush in the process. This route is amazing, but needs more traffic, especially on the upper half.

It seems like the first couple bolts do a horrible job of protecting the climber on the hardest moves - maybe they are a remnant of where old aid bolts or pins were? Anyhow, using a 4' sling from bolt #2 allows for a good clips from stances, though obviously it makes this a l... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: blakeherrington When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: If you follow the blue line, you are climbing something a lot harder than .12b

The standard way to climb Stern Farmer (free) is to move right off the Japanese Gardens Flake near the 2nd bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Velvet Tongue (5.12+)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Getting back INTO the corner was weird and difficult, but getting OUT of the corner, that was hard as nails! This route is awesome!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Ancient Futures (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: This climb is stellar. The 2nd 5.12 might be harder than the first, but with a crux so low, it's an easier redpoint. Are there any bad lines across the BV wall? That whole zone of rock is top-notch.

For the lazy folks like me who'd rather leave 8' of cord and a biner than haul up a second rope, here was our descent.

Rap Beta w/1 70m, all from rap-equipped bolts unless noted:

-Lower one climber from atop the elephant trunk back to the belay. Second climber raps to the 5th(?) bolt (brand new),... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: blakeherrington When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Has that sport route to the right even bent sent? Massive lockoffs from 1/2 pad edges that would seem to grow sandier and sloppier over time.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : M & M Wall : Hang Overhang (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: This route and the next-door Stemmin' Ms are probably 2 of Vantage's top 10 climbs. They are techy, thoughtful, and memorable. It's also possible to climb the left one (Hang) through the crux, and step right up through the roof on stemmin Ms.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Hey Drew,

You probably didn't veer far enough right to find the first of the 5.11+ sections on p5 or p6. That pitch is excellent fingers in a corners, pulls a small roof into a slot, and then can be linked up to two-boulder ledge. The rock and climber is great an it's more straightforward and easier than the second 5.11+ pitch.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gold Rush (5.10-)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: If you climb most of gold rush, step right to the horizontal on Alchemy, and finish via the alchemy corner and overhung arete, I can't imagine a better 5.10 trad pitch anywhere. I guess the local name is Pan Handling.


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