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Member Since: Dec 12, 2006
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact blakeherrington

Point Rank: # 647
Total Points: 1,121
Last Year: 60
Last 30 Days: 5
78 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has blakeherrington been climbing?










Contributions


All 554 | Routes 45 | Areas 9 | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 111 | Posts 113 | Stars 130 | Ratings 62
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: You don't need much gear at all for this route, even if linking pitches. For an onsight rack, placing everythign worthwhile, it's just a few pieces (total) across all 4 leads.

P1 - the crux piton is hard to see and hard to clip if you're short. Locate it from the base. Any other possible gear looks worthless. Higher up past the choss and piton #2 there's a good finger-sized crack. 1 draw, 1 sling, 1 small cam. Don't slip!

P2 - 2 draws. Nowhere for anything else on this tiny pitch.

P3 - ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Good Girls Like Bad Boys (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 25, 2015

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Comments:


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Midnight Rock : Dagoba System (5.12b PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: All hardware replaced fall '14.

Best pitch in Leavenworth?


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : m&m wall : The L & H Route (Free Varia... (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Big ups to Langdon and Hargis on putting up this route in 1969. Their "5.6 friction" on p3 would have been gripping in mountain boots carrying a rack of iron up the wall.

There's an alternate last pitch that we tried and I bailed from which would be a fun independent topout. After P6 step right and climb the steep slanting crack up and left, then zig back hard right on face and slab climbing to the summit. This would likely require a few bolts or else a lot of boldness. I believe that the right... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : White Wall : Thunderstruck (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Amazing sculpted holds with the classic redpoint crux going to the anchors...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Puppy Chow (5.12c)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: I wish that the headwall climbing would go on for another pitch. Incredible 3-part journey with good shakes in between, and totally unforgettable moves.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's ... (5.12d)
By: blakeherrington When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Amazing pitch - really world class. The 2 boulder problems (V5?) come after some good warmup moves, and the headwall is too good to be true.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Rainshadow Direct (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: A slightly easier and probably better version (.12a?) steps right on the big ledge and finishes via Das Muzak rather than the bizarre boulder problem on Rainshadow.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : Cherche La Femme (5.10a)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: .10a to lower-off #1

3? more bolts and ~.11b to lower-off #2 (v3ish)

many more bolts and v7ish (.13b) to lower off #3 (AKA Van Halen)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Zeke's Wall : Mortal Coil (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: I thought P3 (.11+) was harder than P4 (.12-) but the first is a slab foot traverse with no hands, and the other is a finger crack traverse with no feet. Good route!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Bobcat Cringe (5.12b)
By: blakeherrington When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: This could easily be the best finger crack in Washington.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : The Hurt Locker (5.12d)
By: blakeherrington When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Amazing, beautiful, long(!) pitch with great stone up high. I too found it hard to stay on the arete after the rest and chain draw shared with Meridian. Stepping over to Meridian and back left to the anchor made for a continuous mid-5.12 version. Keep a couple draws on you, even when you hit the long steep section of fixed draws. You'll need them again at the top. The boulder problem staying on the arete at the very end felt desperate!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Klaus Von Bulow and the Alg... (5.10c)
By: blakeherrington When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Easier approach is to climb to the base of Slow Children and walk 5m left.
The real Claus Von Bulow is spelled with a C, and has quite a story behind his infamy.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Tantric Bazooka (5.11d)
By: blakeherrington When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: The two bolts near the wafer flake were added with the FA's permission. The undercling moves rightward to join TPMV are trivial (jug-to-jug) if you're over 5'10" or so, and become a desperate boulder problem if you're short, making this more like solid 5.12 or 5.12+.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Deal with it Ranger (5.11a/b)
By: blakeherrington When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: You can also continue up the same major corner system ending in a finger crack on the right, to an anchor atop P2 Godzilla (aka Leapin' Lizards) - and from there you can continue via Slow Children (far left) or P3 of City park (middle) or Park Ranger (above).

Climbed to this point, Deal With it Ranger is an excellent 50m 5.11a/b.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Amandla (5.13c)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is amazing - it has to be one of the best single pitches of granite climbing anywhere. Definitely end this by climbing up and over the roof (either rightward or leftward), it provides a final redpoint crux just after anchor #1, and seems like the only logical finish. The original anchor spot doesn't make any sense. There isn't an easy orobvious way to escape over into the Iron Horse flare. It may be possible, but sticking to the arete doesn't feel forced.

EDIT JAN '16: A local ... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Tadpole (5.11c)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 10, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is mega classic, but never gets done!

If you just climb Princely and then do a 5.5 rightward traverse for 10-15m you're standing at the base.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Gateway (5.11)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: The best 5.11 at Trout!


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Narrow Arrow Overhang (5.12d PG13)
By: blakeherrington When: Jan 9, 2015

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Comments: How about "two V6 boulder problems, separated by a strenuous & crucial gear placement" - it's accurate, but doesn't quite roll off the tongue.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : ** Bouldering in Icicle Cre... : Forestland Boulders : Feel The Pinch (V4+)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: Some Leavenworth V4s feel like V6. This one and the Fridge Right take the cakes for hardest of the grade in town.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Sagittarius (5.10a/b)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: From the anchor at the full P1, great climbing(.10+/11-) leads up and left for 20' to the major ledge atop full Iron Horse. Bring a couple small wires or small cams. The climbing is a fun mix of arete compression on twin aretes, and stemming. Link with P1 if rope drags allows, or bring up your partner and do this as the start of P2 Iron Horse.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Freedom or Death (5.12a)
By: blakeherrington When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: P1 - .10b bolts and gear (this is not all bolt protected)
P2- .11c bolts - clip bolted anchor and downclimb right to comfy ledge. Gear belay takes wires and a mid-size cam.
P3 - .12a bolts and supplement with a single set from fingers to hands. Bolted Anchor.
P4 - .11c gear (some fixed heads and pins) Begins with a 5.10 traverse, then has a short 5.11 crux after joining LC, then 5.10 to the bolted anchor.


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : The Sanctuary : Jugulator (5.12c/d)
By: blakeherrington When: Nov 26, 2014

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Comments: Maybe the original .13a grade assumes you don't use the big holds to the right after the crux (or, this being vantage, holds may have fallen out and simply made the crux easier.) It feels about .12c using anything in reach of the bolts. Fun route! Stays dry all the time.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Colchuck Balanced Rock : The Tempest (5.12+)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: FFA/Route History

First no-falls/hangs lead of P2, clipping pre-placed protection - Tom Ramier 8/30/09

First redpoint of the crux pitch (and a no-falls team ascent of the route) - Ben Gilkison+Andrew Philbin 8/14/10


The date of FFA depends on how one defines a free lead of a crack climb, and if that means carrying and placing protection as you climb. The modern standard to free a crack climb is to place the gear.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : A Hatch (5.12)
By: blakeherrington When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Jon! I would be happy to do the bolt move if you need someone. Obviously .11+ and .12- aren't too far apart so I could see it going either way, but it seems easier than any other index 5.12 I have been on.

We lowered over and previewed that steep face left of the topout. Pretty rock and good position but I am not sure there is a route up it.


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