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Location: MA : North Shore/Cape Ann : Agassiz Rock : Little Agassiz : Unnamed Face Problem (V3)
By: Bjorn When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry. Felt like the crux of a 5.11+ delicate face climb to me. V4 wouldn't be unreasonable, I suppose.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Physical Crag : Crown Joules (5.11b/c R)
By: Bjorn When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Proofread.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.11d)
By: Bjorn When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the ticks have less to do with this specific location than they do with the month of May. Anywhere in Clear Creek that involves wading through vegetation late April through June or longer usually involves getting beticked.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Face Value (5.9)
By: Bjorn When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a blast on this route a few days ago before winter arrived. One thing I'd like to note is that you can do this route and get off it with a single 70m rope with one significant footnote. The first rappel down is slightly incomplete with a 70m. The rappel gets you to a bomber ledge but not to the bolts. I had to go off rappel and walk over to the bolts whilst connected to nothing. My girlfriend did the same, mindful to secure one side of the rope to herself before going off rappel and doing th... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yoga is a ticketable offense at Vedauwoo.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Sisters/Hidden Fawn Boulder... : Pachyderm Boulder : Think Hides (V2-3)
By: Bjorn When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The solution jug on this problem is a phenomenal hold that always makes me laugh.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Bell Crack (5.11b)
By: Bjorn When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Henry Barber.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Pooh Corner (5.10b) : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sold him those shoes!!!
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : To the Moon Alice : Alice (5.11 V1) : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsighting girl-offwidths with just his fists since 1981.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Green With Envy (5.11 V2)
By: Bjorn When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was just there on Friday, giving this thing my all. Though Green with Envy (much better name than the recent claim) is cut from the same cloth as Spin to Win or Beer Crack, it is significantly harder than either of these. Maybe I just have a while to go before it feels wired, but this one is just a touch more brutal until you really figure it out, and it just ain't over till you're on top.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : Ginseng Route (5.12c) : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lookin tough, Mike.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Sketch Palsy (5.10c)
By: Bjorn When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 60m gets you down as well. Trend right as you rappel and get to a nice ledge that is 10-15ft higher than the ground directly below the chains.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Intimidation (5.9+)
By: Bjorn When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is just fine at 9+. I don't even think this is harder or more sustained than other routes at the grade in Vedauwoo. With 6 to 8 foot cruxes separated by ledges at which total relaxation can be achieved, I would actually say 'sustained' is a poor choice of adjective for this route. The final stretch can be kept pretty relaxed by carrying TWO #5 Friend sized pieces instead of the one that I had to walk.
Those who climb much at Vedauwoo gradually will arrive at the conclusion that... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Bragging About Jesus (5.10a)
By: Bjorn When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rappelled the route successfully with a 60m the other day. Just trend to the right to a ledge that is higher than the ground directly beneath the chains. This ledge is not a complicated walkoff or anything. This route is a great time and a wonderful way to mix it up in the middle of a day of fat cracks.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch : The Sparkling Touch (5.13- V7)
By: Bjorn When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crazy Eyes Bjorn Flex at your service. Or dis-service.
For whatever it's worth, I feel strongly that Vedauwoo climbers should be above this manner of online bickering and mudslinging. It's very out of character with the area, or so I would have liked to believe.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : The Dungeon : Escape Tunnel (5.11+ V3)
By: Bjorn When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Esta fisura no es facil!
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Location: WiledHorse : new photos : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys think you're sooooooooooooo hot...
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Party Dome : Unnamed Scrappy Crack (5.11 V2)
By: Bjorn When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Couldn't have said it better myself. So awkward.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Bumblies For Breakfast (5.10a)
By: Bjorn When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Personally I've always loved RS for its rather infrequent bolt placements. Runouts above bolts, coupled with the slow, steady, considerate style of climbing peculiar to this cliff just make me concentrate in a way I find irresistible. This route just happens to be the most Red Slab-esque in this sense. Highly recommended.
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Location: MA : North Shore/Cape Ann : Redrock Area Gems : Doug's Roof (5.11 V2)
By: Bjorn When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the killer photo, Doug!
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: Bjorn When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just goes to show, it only takes one. Gravity's always waiting for you.
Sure beats dying in a hospital bed at 89 with tubes up your nose and peckerhole. I'm happy for his sake that he ended his days doing the best thing he knew to do. I always admired John's intrepid soul.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Upper Cliff : Obscene Phone Call (5.8)
By: Bjorn When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite route name anywhere.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : 700S Boulders
By: Bjorn When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Visiting this past weekend, I measured out the mileage since I knew 7.6 didn't seem right. From the Nautilus Parking Lot 700S measured out to be 3.4 miles away. Another 0.3 miles to best parking.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : B-G Crack (5.11-) : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fact that it's the size of the climber's head also betrays it as a #6. Not sure where he stuck it either. This is a fist crack. Perhaps he was just nurturing that urge to pose for the ol' "Look Ma, Big Cam" picture.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : John's Tower : Burning Man (5.11a) : Photo
By: Bjorn When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leave J.C. out of this. Peace be with you.
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