Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How long does the approach take?
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Dead Horse Crag
By: BJ Sbarra When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe 15-20 minutes from the car, most of which is a casual stroll along a flat bike path.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Jungle Book (aka Graduation... (5.6)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I probably wouldn't put someone on this for their first lead. The last 20 feet or so are really chossy, chunky and loose. The corner right of the pink wall would be a much safer alternative.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : No Name Canyon : Sumac (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite what the new guidebook says, this route does not share an anchor with the climb to the right. It has its own.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The School Yard : Look Out Below (5.8)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could still use a good brushing in spots. The sooner you exit the chimney, the cleaner and better the climbing will be.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Trooper Traverse (5.8 PG13)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found some gear here on the third pitch. If it's yours, drop me a line.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mud... : Behind the Curtain (5.12b PG13)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys are animals.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Dead Horse Crag
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Lyn, just wondering what you felt about the gear wasn't solid. This is some of the hardest rock you'll find anywhere, so a good cam in those horizontals should be bomber. Glad you had fun.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux
By: BJ Sbarra When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The stuff on splitterchoss.com is getting old. I haven't updated it since the new guidebook came out. The info in the guidebook should be pretty spot on, that's what I'd go with.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Frying Pan : The Skillet
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The easiest routes here are 5.9,there are three of them, everything else is harder. The new Rifle & Western Colorado guidebook has good info on all of them.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Frying Pan : Seven Castles
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only one 5.9 here, everything else is harder.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : The Front Porch : Girdle on the Porch (5.11b/c)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys are true visionaries.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Pass Walls : Crystal Grip (5.10b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt line is a bit contrived, with easier climbing just to the sides in places. Still fun though.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : Black Eyes and Spam (5.11a)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently the huge block that forms the upper crack on this route is now moving, approach with extreme caution. The locals are working on a solution.
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Narrows : Narrows Proper : The Cement Garden (5.13 R)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Patience, young Jedi! Hone your skills, you must!
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Frolic Wall : Unknown Handcrack (5.9)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super good, too bad it's not longer. Takes #2 Friends and #1 Camalots.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Frolic Wall : Sprinkle (5.10a)
By: BJ Sbarra When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, the route that is marked in the photo on the Frolic Wall page doesn't match up with this description. It's very thin tips liebacking to a big OW and finally pinches down to hands/fingers for the last eight feet or so. Fun route, but kinda stout crux that's much harder then the rest of the climbing. Our group felt it was 10+ unless you have small fingies and can get them deeper in the crack.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, this is a fun route. It's a mellow romp up a nice cliff, and makes for a great day of moderate climbing if you link it with Olive Oil. The 2nd rap was a little difficult to pull, be sure to move your knot as close to the edge as possible. Also, there was no bad rock anywhere on this route. And I'd probably link the last two pitches with a 70 if I ever did it again.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hideout Wall
By: BJ Sbarra When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: what kind of sun does this wall get? from the photo maybe looks like afternoon?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Never Cry Wolf (5.11c/d)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Dec 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best pitches here, don't miss it.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : F/S (5.10c)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Dec 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This otherwise excellent climb is marred by a lot of hollow sounding rock down low and anchors that are 20' too high. Why not put them where the good rock stops? That crumbly, broken crap getting to the anchors is completely uncalled for!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Wild : Photo
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sorry, but what are these being used for? As someone who's put up a lot of routes, I've never needed compressed air. Maybe I'm missing out on something?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Section M : Arioso (5.11b)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say he should post the grade that the route actually is. Many of your climbs are sandbagged, even for Rifle, which doesn't really do much for anybody. It's great you are putting up all these routes, but why not accurately grade them?
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Location: CO : Carbondale : The Frying Pan : The Skillet : Black Eyes and Spam (5.11a)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt put this up on the lead and as I remember that was as high as he could get the bolt. The lower bolt was added and the hangers were camouflaged later by another party, with permission.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: BJ Sbarra When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI, at the hanging belay on top of pitch 8, there is a bolt out right of the other three that wiggles quite a bit more than you'd want at a hanging stance.
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