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Location: AL : Steele : Aura (5.12- PG13)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: How about new pins instead of bolts?
I'll donate the pins.
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Location: AL : Steele
By: Br'er Rabbit When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brannen....If you can lead solo the 5.8 on the right end of the Wolfe Wall, Graham's Crack at 5.7, or 4th class up the gully in the vicinity of Dreadlock et al, you'll be able to rig something nearby that will be more challenging and fun. Wolfe Wall is the best spot to get a burn, solo. Generally, anchors are challenging to access without a lead and much more so if you are unfamiliar with the intermittent nature of the cliffline.
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Location: AL : Steele : Aura (5.12- PG13)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed pins are dubious, at best. Screamers and Offset Mastercams or TCUs might be advised.
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Location: AL : Steele : Man Overboard (5.11 PG13)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I find getting into the scoop just as hard as the edges and sidepulls. 1980s 5.10+ = hard.
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Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southwest Corner : Bat Shit Crazy (5.10+)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice.....another good rainy day route!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/6, the first new bolt had been pulled out of the rock a good ways....I clipped it anyway and walked my #6. Yes, my #6.
Also, we got down in two 70M rappels. From the top to the top of the 2nd pitch. From the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground.
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Location: AL
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Because the locals would freak!
Shannon....you should add your knowledge to the database here, especially on the classics.
Jamestown, Sandrock, Tallulah, Laurel Knob, Whitesides...
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Open Casket (5.9) : Photo
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one will get your attention.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Molly and Rocket (5.9-)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Feb 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ring anchors up and right.
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Location: AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall : Popular Science (Golden Fla... (5.9+)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protect as high as you can reach from the last good stance above the ledge (hint...stem up another few feet). Clip short then run for the top. Avoids the last placement from a terrible position and just might keep you off the ledge if you don't get the anchors clipped. A large stopper works well for this. Top out for full value.
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Location: AL : Steele : unnamed trad on wolf wall (5.9+)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Dec 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cold shuts up and left. New ring anchors up and out right.
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Location: AL : Palisades Park
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some, if not all anchors are accessible from the top. Still, it's wise to bring a few long pieces of rope or webbing (two 50 footers would be plenty) in case you want to get on a route that has not been updated.
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Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Great White Way (5.9) : Photo
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the wool gloves! It was cold that day.
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Location: NC : Big Green : New Species (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Dec 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It really is this steep!
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Location: NC : Big Green : Danger of Extinction (5.9 R)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts new as of December 2012. Thanks, DD and SS.
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Location: NC : Big Green : Grand Delusion (5.11a)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beautiful crack line...sustained, and well protected. Cleaned in 2011 by Shannon and Andrew's brother, then FA'd November 2012 by Shannon and Jody, the unearthed corner yields steep and aesthetic climbing over good protection.....odd for Big Green.
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Location: NC : Big Green : New Species (5.10b/c)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job, Drew.
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Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Motor Booty (5.9)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moves off the ledge are somewhat desperate if well protected.
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Groover (Gaskin Finish) (5.8)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Nov 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Double ropes mandatory....Mandatory on virtually all routes at LK.
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Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun line and tall for Steele! Climbed twice in a week, once under moonlight.
Agreed on need for no additional bolts. The bolt spacing, placement, hanger angle, etc. on this route are perfect.
Between the last of the lower bolts and the anchors, once you clammer through the vines, there is an obvious constricting crack that will take a perfect #11 stopper or equivalent. The first section of climbing offers good patina pulling and a little fancy footwork.
Consistently steep up ... more >>
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Location: AL : Steele : (un-named) 5.7 arete (5.7+)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found not one, but THREE old pitons on this route yesterday. Very cool. How many can you find?
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Fathom Direct (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Jan 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fanstastic slab pitch and on one of the best 5.10s in the SE.
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Location: GA : Tallulah Gorge : Main Wall : Primitive Paradox (5.9) : Photo
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Jan 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Means, "rappel from here."
Most commonly, folks break this route into two rappels.
One from the 'arrow' to the first belay.
One from the first belay to the ground.
I've heard two 60M ropes will go to the ground from the top but haven't tried, myself.
Take a 70M rope and do two rappels.
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Location: AL : Griffin Falls : Photo
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: He's in the chimney. Not Mendacity. Not 11.
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Location: AL : Steele : unnamed trad on wolf wall (5.9+)
By: Br'er Rabbit When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed nut is blown as of about a month ago.
Roof still protects quite well with a couple stoppers.
Alt. Start: From 25' left, pleasant climbing on broken patina and flakes leads up and right to join the route above the cleft. Don't fall.
Edit to add....
Did the left finish out of the cave yesterday (11/4/12), good steep crack jamming and jugs. Equally as airy and more positive than the right finish out of the cave. Must do.
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