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Member Since: Mar 16, 2006
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Billcoe


Point Rank: # 1,157
Total Points: 525
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 6
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Billcoe been climbing?










Contributions


All 232 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Photos 71 | Page Improvments | Comments 35 | Posts 86 | Stars 28 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Congratulations to our Washington brothers who can, as of today, legally now partake of a puff of weed without being criminals or breaking any laws. In the spirit of legality and openness I will out the following. The name of this route came due to the rock pipe that was drilled into the route at the anchor. A small weatherproof plastic film canister was tucked up on a ledge of what is now not illegal substance was left behind with the caveat that if any climber wanted a puff, feel free to take ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Jimmies (Twilight Zone) : Ablation Zone (5.7)
By: Billcoe When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: RIGHT ON for getting another line done George. Looking forward to doing it. Nice write up!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Upper Kueffler Road Boulder...
By: Billcoe When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Right on! Way to get it done man!


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Congrats on the First Free Ascent Matt. I know 2 of the 3 FA dudes. In fact I ran into Neil out there just last year. I'm pretty sure that they would have OK'ed slapping in some bolts to protect a free ascent attempt. Had you done so and then clipped them as you freed all of the moves, it would have been acknowledged as a FFA by the community. Yet you chose to preplace the pro instead, and the rest of us climbing at a lesser level all know that it was much, much bolder and challenging for you th... more >>


Location: OR : Coethedral -The Steeple are... : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: Scott added another rap point so that the rappel can be done with only a single 60 meter rope.


Location: OR : Coethedral -The Steeple are... : Beckey Route (5.3) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: Those cobbles and rocks are welded in place.


Location: OR : Coethedral -The Steeple are... : Brother Mike (5.10-) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: The rock is solid, sort of an andesitic cross between Smith Rock Welded Tuft and Maple Canyon cobbles.


Location: OR : Coethedral : The Salathe Highway (5.6 R)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: This route is most likely in the 5.5 -5.6 range. On the 3rd or 4th ascent, Ben Priestly noted that he cleaned out a shallow dirt filled crack that you can slot three bomber #2 Camalots in. It was recently pointed out that Tim Olsen listed this route as 5.7 X in the guidebook. That's very responsible and considerate as it would be the wrong place for an error by a beginner who might get sucked in by an otherwise easy sounding 5.5 rating. Furthermore, every other route out here has prolific ... more >>


Location: OR : Coethedral
By: Billcoe When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Josh, it is in the new Northwest Rock guidebook. (along with a bunch of other new areas and routes). It can be bought here: www.portlandrockclimbs.com/portland-rock-climbs and the description of what's in it is here: www.northwestoregonrock.com/

Have fun!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Jimmies (Twilight Zone)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: The 1st pitch to access all of the center routes has no bolts. As it's been getting climbed a potential placement may have appeared here or there. The operative word is may". Or may not. Been just 3rd classing it although it's a easy 5th class climb in it's own right and getting easier as the loose stuff gets knocked off. Don't whine or bitch about it, just do the right thing and stick some quality Stainless bolts in if it disturbs you. The rap anchors are there both pitches, and @ 10 bolts on t... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : Sweet Fucker (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: If climbed to the ledge and the leader traverses right to the headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up SF, it's @ 5.8. Last week Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. It was originally done with gear and a single fixed pin, placed on lead, left behind. Due to the runnout nature of the climb, another pin was later fixed to keep a falling leader from auguring into the dirt.

So hearing that the pins were gone, yesterday I cleaned and re or retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fu... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: [Quote=killis]"The pro bolts above this are not what most folks would call "too close", and I found the lead to be interesting and engaging climbing, with a line that required a couple of bolts to connect to the next crack system, the other alternative being a long pitch up a sandy gully that had nothing appealing about it at all. The beautiful corners and cracks above are the entire reason for climbing this wall, and would maintain an X rating without the bolts, period. I like X-rated routes fi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : One-Armed Bandit (5.7)
By: Billcoe When: Mar 31, 2012

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Comments: Did this with my son and his buddy last week. Singles to 2" Camalot size and single nuts including single small wireds -DMM brass Wired offset sizes would have been perfect. Touching any rock inside of the chimney seemed to make it fall down onto the belayer in large chunks. I knocked more rocks on my partners out of this chimney than I have in my last 30 years of climbing total. The second dropped even more than that, almost took out the lad who was ducking under protection and the rocks did ch... more >>


Location: OR : Coethedral : The Salathe Highway (5.6 R)
By: Billcoe When: Oct 22, 2011

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Comments: Haha! You weren't even born in the 70s Tyler!


Location: WA
By: Billcoe When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: You can keep the Far Side Andyf, even though it's closer to PDX than Beacon. In fact, there are 2 Farsides, you get both! Woot! If you can clean it up a tad we'll claim ownership. We'll take Ozone right next door to the FS as it's much cleaner. Opps, breaking news: the Oregon climbers have voted, and if you give us either Outer Space or Liberty Bell, we will give you everything we have except for Smith Rock. LOL!

www.mountainproject.com/v/farside/106862529

Regards!

BTW, before anyone... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: Great photo by the late Bobby Model. The pro photog in him is certainly visible in the framing of this shot even though the pic is too small to see good detailing. Can you post a bigger version?

Thanks for sharing it! Woot!


Location: OR : Beacon Rock : Blownout (5.10b)
By: Billcoe When: Jul 3, 2011

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Comments: You list the first ascentionists incorrectly as Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976.

It was Steve Strauch and Danny Gates who did the FA. Bear with me as I'll most likely screw up the tale of the FA. The story is that they went out New Years during the start of one of those shitty assed ice storm's the gorge is known for in winter. Feeling lucky to have survived the drive as the storm is ramping up, they decide to climb anyway, feeling that climbing in the worst weather imaginable would be more s... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Owl Prow : ... : Photo
By: Billcoe When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: IS THIS FROM THE "BOLTED CRACKS, CAN'T AFFORD CAMS" PHOTO COLLECTION? LOL


Location: OR : Rocky Creek
By: Billcoe When: Jan 17, 2011

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Comments: Nice! Good on you for getting on it. What kind of bolts are you using and how is the rock Calvin? Do the little nubbins continually blow out, and the climbing relegated to the Huecos?


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside
By: Billcoe When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for laying this out there so nice and sharing it with everyone Adam. As noted above, Tim's book will have this in there as well, hopefully some world class topos that Tim's known for too. Tim's site has a list of places people can get his books, bother them to see if copy's are in yet, should be soon. Here's the link to that site:
www.portlandrockclimbs.com/portland-rock-climbs]]www.portlan>>>

If anyone doesn't have Tim's Beacon Rock topo... more >>


Location: OR : Coethedral
By: Billcoe When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: Psyched that you folks all loved it Nate. It's an incredible spot with some fun but sick knobaliciousness happening. As it's located high at the 3300 foot level, it really comes into its own in the heat of the summer when Smith Rock is cooking and too hot to do anything but sip umbrella drinks in the shade by the Eagle Crest Resort golf courses or swimming pools.

For everyone else, as said above although there is currently over 3000 vertical feet of enjoyable bolted climbing on the main weathe... more >>


Location: OR : Coethedral : Bewitched (direct) (5.10a PG13)
By: Billcoe When: Oct 18, 2010

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Comments: Nice Nate! You bagged the 2nd ascent. The 2 guys Ref above: you said: "didn't get the guys' names" were Chad Ellars and Josh Gold who put that up. Chad has a couple of pretty good pictures of you leading it here: cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number>>>

Stokeage!!!!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : The Bare Buttress : The Left Cheek (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 15, 2010

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Comments: ...yep COOP, about as natural as it gets. Bowline on a coil tie-in, no shoes, chalk bag or harness. Adam did the first one of these routes on a dare.

He and his buddy Jesse had been discussing the great Dean Fieldman Stone Nudes calenders and how hot and courageous the female models were. Jesse said something to the effect that dudes were just too chicken to pose naked like that, Adam begged to differ and the arguement somehow heated up with Jesse calling Adam out. Despite it being February wi... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside : Main Cliff : Sheep Fuckers Delight (5.10) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 13, 2010

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Comments: The name is a reminder to not defer naming your own routes and letting your buddies name them LOL!


Location: OR : Coethedral : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Aug 21, 2010

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Comments: That's Ben Priestly in the yellow/orange on the last pitch right under The Old Witch pinnacle's top, Scott Peterson in white just underneath him heading up. The rap is down the back to the notch, if you sit on the summit (just above Ben) you can see the rap spot, which goes back to the anchor you started on at the base of the pinnacle. You'll have to click on the picture 2 times and it will blow up so you can see those guys clearly.

The route is a great one. There's a couple of ways to access ... more >>


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