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Member Since: Mar 16, 2006
Last Visit: Jun 25, 2015
Contact Billcoe

Point Rank: # 1,168
Total Points: 579
Last Year: 77
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Billcoe been climbing?


All 284 | Routes 10 | Areas 2 | Photos 80 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 121 | Stars 31 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Right on Topher. Nice photo. I was out and followed this route @ a month back. Seemed harder than I recalled, glad I didn't lead it this trip. Take a full year off for 2 shoulder surgeries and your climbing just goes to pot:-) Followed the yellow line and it felt like I screwed up the sequence, it seemed much much harder:-).

To anyone interested, there are 2 other alternative version finish's to the right @ 8 feet higher from where Tophers blue line route goes left. (I've never seen your varia... more >>

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (7) The Bare Buttress : The Left Cheek (5.7 PG13)
By: Billcoe When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: I had heard that the left cheek route had gotten bolted. As far as I know, the first ascentionist, Adam Winslow, was not contacted as is tradition and common practice. Some folks got miffed by the bolts. I was there recently and it looks like the hangers were removed. At least they were on the first bolt, didn't see a 2nd. The bolts look to be somewhat in between Adams crack and the Left Cheek, and thus a new route, but I'd want someone else to confirm that who knows what they are talking about.... more >>

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : Boo Coup (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: I've been asked by 2 folks if they could add a bolt to the place where the offset Alien would go (lower down, it's probably the first piece and then it gets into the business). I said YES both times but was out there yesterday and still don't see where any bolt has been added yet. Feel free to put it in if you are so inclined. Make sure it's a good one.

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This is the view from the notch which caused Jeff Thomas to name the pinnacle "The Old Witch" (her face is to the right).

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : Excalibur (5.10a)
By: Billcoe When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Good stuff Chad! Just want to add that it's easy to step over the top of the pinnacle that is the Excalibur top and continue on the next 2 short pitches to the Old Witch topout. As far as that goes, if someone were to add a bolt or 2 on the face to the left you could continue up the Bewitched route to the top as well.

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Congratulations to our Washington brothers who can, as of today, legally now partake of a puff of weed without being criminals or breaking any laws. In the spirit of legality and openness I will out the following. The name of this route came due to the rock pipe that was drilled into the route at the anchor. A small weatherproof plastic film canister was tucked up on a ledge of what is now not illegal substance was left behind with the caveat that if any climber wanted a puff, feel free to take ... more >>

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Jimmies (Twilight Zone) : Ablation Zone (5.7)
By: Billcoe When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: RIGHT ON for getting another line done George. Looking forward to doing it. Nice write up!

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Upper Kueffler Road Boulder...
By: Billcoe When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Right on! Way to get it done man!

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Congrats on the First Free Ascent Matt. I know 2 of the 3 FA dudes. In fact I ran into Neil out there just last year. I'm pretty sure that they would have OK'ed slapping in some bolts to protect a free ascent attempt. Had you done so and then clipped them as you freed all of the moves, it would have been acknowledged as a FFA by the community. Yet you chose to preplace the pro instead, and the rest of us climbing at a lesser level all know that it was much, much bolder and challenging for you th... more >>

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : The Steeple : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: Scott added another rap point so that the rappel can be done with only a single 60 meter rope.

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : The Steeple : Beckey Route (5.3) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: Those cobbles and rocks are welded in place.

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : The Steeple : Brother Mike (5.10-) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: The rock is solid, sort of an andesitic cross between Smith Rock Welded Tuft and Maple Canyon cobbles.

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : The Salathe Highway (5.6 R)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: This route is most likely in the 5.5 -5.6 range. On the 3rd or 4th ascent, Ben Priestly noted that he cleaned out a shallow dirt filled crack that you can slot three bomber #2 Camalots in. It was recently pointed out that Tim Olsen listed this route as 5.7 X in the guidebook. That's very responsible and considerate as it would be the wrong place for an error by a beginner who might get sucked in by an otherwise easy sounding 5.5 rating. Furthermore, every other route out here has prolific ... more >>

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral
By: Billcoe When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Josh, it is in the new Northwest Rock guidebook. (along with a bunch of other new areas and routes). It can be bought here: portlandrockclimbs.com/portlan... and the description of what's in it is here: northwestoregonrock.com/

Have fun!

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Jimmies (Twilight Zone)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: The 1st pitch to access all of the center routes has no bolts. As it's been getting climbed a potential placement may have appeared here or there. The operative word is may". Or may not. Been just 3rd classing it although it's a easy 5th class climb in it's own right and getting easier as the loose stuff gets knocked off. Don't whine or bitch about it, just do the right thing and stick some quality Stainless bolts in if it disturbs you. The rap anchors are there both pitches, and @ 10 bolts on t... more >>

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : Sweet Fucker (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: If climbed to the ledge and the leader traverses right to the headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up SF, it's @ 5.9. Last week Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. It was originally done with gear and a single fixed pin, placed on lead, left behind. Due to the runnout nature of the climb, another pin was later fixed to keep a falling leader from auguring into the dirt.

So hearing that the pins were gone, yesterday I cleaned and re or retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fu... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: [Quote=killis]"The pro bolts above this are not what most folks would call "too close", and I found the lead to be interesting and engaging climbing, with a line that required a couple of bolts to connect to the next crack system, the other alternative being a long pitch up a sandy gully that had nothing appealing about it at all. The beautiful corners and cracks above are the entire reason for climbing this wall, and would maintain an X rating without the bolts, period. I like X-rated routes fi... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : One-Armed Bandit (5.7)
By: Billcoe When: Mar 31, 2012

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Comments: Did this with my son and his buddy last week. Singles to 2" Camalot size and single nuts including single small wireds -DMM brass Wired offset sizes would have been perfect. Touching any rock inside of the chimney seemed to make it fall down onto the belayer in large chunks. I knocked more rocks on my partners out of this chimney than I have in my last 30 years of climbing total. The second dropped even more than that, almost took out the lad who was ducking under protection and the rocks did ch... more >>

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : The Salathe Highway (5.6 R)
By: Billcoe When: Oct 22, 2011

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Comments: Haha! You weren't even born in the 70s Tyler!

Location: WA
By: Billcoe When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: You can keep the Far Side Andyf, even though it's closer to PDX than Beacon. In fact, there are 2 Farsides, you get both! Woot! If you can clean it up a tad we'll claim ownership. We'll take Ozone right next door to the FS as it's much cleaner. Opps, breaking news: the Oregon climbers have voted, and if you give us either Outer Space or Liberty Bell, we will give you everything we have except for Smith Rock. LOL!



BTW, before anyone... more >>

Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : ... : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Aug 26, 2011

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Comments: Great photo by the late Bobby Model. The pro photog in him is certainly visible in the framing of this shot even though the pic is too small to see good detailing. Can you post a bigger version?

Thanks for sharing it! Woot!

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Blownout (5.10b)
By: Billcoe When: Jul 3, 2011

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Comments: You list the first ascentionists incorrectly as Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976.

It was Steve Strauch and Danny Gates who did the FA. Bear with me as I'll most likely screw up the tale of the FA. The story is that they went out New Years during the start of one of those shitty assed ice storm's the gorge is known for in winter. Feeling lucky to have survived the drive as the storm is ramping up, they decide to climb anyway, feeling that climbing in the worst weather imaginable would be more s... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Owl Prow : ... : Photo
By: Billcoe When: May 30, 2011

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Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Dropzone (aka Farside)
By: Billcoe When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for laying this out there so nice and sharing it with everyone Adam. As noted above, Tim's book will have this in there as well, hopefully some world class topos that Tim's known for too. Tim's site has a list of places people can get his books, bother them to see if copy's are in yet, should be soon. Here's the link to that site:

If anyone doesn't have Tim's Beacon Rock topo... more >>

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral
By: Billcoe When: Dec 7, 2010

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Comments: Psyched that you folks all loved it Nate. It's an incredible spot with some fun but sick knobaliciousness happening. As it's located high at the 3300 foot level, it really comes into its own in the heat of the summer when Smith Rock is cooking and too hot to do anything but sip umbrella drinks in the shade by the Eagle Crest Resort golf courses or swimming pools.

For everyone else, as said above although there is currently over 3000 vertical feet of enjoyable bolted climbing on the main weathe... more >>

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