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Member Since: Mar 16, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 19, 2016
Contact Billcoe

Point Rank: # 1,245
Total Points: 614
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Billcoe been climbing?










Contributions


All 350 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 174 | Stars 33 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : The Salathe Highway (5.6 R)
By: Billcoe When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Was up there this weekend and thought that several long over the shoulder slings and a #1 Red Camalot make it much easier on the panic button in your heart. I got a couple larger wired nuts in too that I thought were fine but my followers said they wouldn't want to fall on. Tim lists this as 5.7X in the NW Oregon Guidebook, however, it's marginally an R, if that. If accessing it via Lava Tube, I'd note that Lava Tube should be 5.8 not 5.7, it's long.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (3) Snake Wall : Opdyke's Crack (5.9+)
By: Billcoe When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: I believe I led it (free) in @1984 or so. Of course, I could be wrong. Jim pointed the most obvious line out to me I climbed up it. I wasn't aware that he'd done it earlier till the guidebook came out. Climbed to the top on a super hot day, tied off a tree. Plopped my shorts wearing ass right down on the cliff edge and as Jim climbed up, while swatting mosquitos and scratching the lumps, I noticed a huge amount of poison oak all around and under me. I'd sat right down in the middle of it. It was... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: HoLeeFuk, I believe that my ancient desiccated tiny nads just shrank even more looking at that photo. Wow, great action shot.

Pfft, kids.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8)
By: Billcoe When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Great homily john. Ujahn and I did this route yesterday. The advice up thread to take the 2nd road past the black velvet turn off will be what I try next time. The Handren directions allowed me to confirm that a rental car does a poor job as a road grader although we did press ours into service. Wound up parking about a mile further down the road and walking the road to the trailhead.

The route was great. The P2 comments above seemed accurate, it was harder than the 4th P 5.8 we both thought. ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Pinto Rock : South Face : Cobbles 101 (5.8)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Looks like a great line and fun times. Right on!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Pinto Rock : South Face : Cobbles 101 (5.8) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Cool looking stuff Brendan! Thanks for sharing it.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Cruisin' (5.8)
By: Billcoe When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Did this yesterday and logged in to see the grade. Tim lists it as 5.7 in his book but it's 5.9. Or I'm old:-) Could be both. On the block that is noted in the comment above, I used that on the FA of Couchmaster, but it has been pointed out to me that it is probably a detached block that will come off at some point, so I'd pass by even if you want to use it for pro. At least don't yard on it or fall if you do stick a piece in there.


This route got done after I'd ground up led/wirebrushed what... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Right on Topher. Nice photo. I was out and followed this route @ a month back. Seemed harder than I recalled, glad I didn't lead it this trip. Take a full year off for 2 shoulder surgeries and your climbing just goes to pot:-) Followed the yellow line and it felt like I screwed up the sequence, it seemed much much harder:-).

To anyone interested, there are 2 other alternative version finish's to the right @ 8 feet higher from where Tophers blue line route goes left. (I've never seen your varia... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (7) The Bare Buttress : The Left Cheek (5.6)
By: Billcoe When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: I had heard that the left cheek route had gotten bolted. As far as I know, the first ascentionist, Adam Winslow, was not contacted as is tradition and common practice. Some folks got miffed by the bolts. I was there recently and it looks like the hangers were removed. At least they were on the first bolt, didn't see a 2nd. The bolts look to be somewhat in between Adams crack and the Left Cheek, and thus a new route, but I'd want someone else to confirm that who knows what they are talking about.... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : Boo Coup (5.10a)
By: Billcoe When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: I've been asked by 2 folks if they could add a bolt to the place where the offset Alien would go (lower down, it's probably the first piece and then it gets into the business). I said YES both times but was out there yesterday and still don't see where any bolt has been added yet. Feel free to put it in if you are so inclined. Make sure it's a good one.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: This is the view from the notch which caused Jeff Thomas to name the pinnacle "The Old Witch" (her face is to the right).


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : Excalibur (5.10a)
By: Billcoe When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Good stuff Chad! Just want to add that it's easy to step over the top of the pinnacle that is the Excalibur top and continue on the next 2 short pitches to the Old Witch topout. As far as that goes, if someone were to add a bolt or 2 on the face to the left you could continue up the Bewitched route to the top as well.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : The Head Wall (5.10-)
By: Billcoe When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Congratulations to our Washington brothers who can, as of today, legally now partake of a puff of weed without being criminals or breaking any laws. In the spirit of legality and openness I will out the following. The name of this route came due to the rock pipe that was drilled into the route at the anchor. A small weatherproof plastic film canister was tucked up on a ledge of what is now not illegal substance was left behind with the caveat that if any climber wanted a puff, feel free to take ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Jimmies (Twilight Zone) : Ablation Zone (5.7)
By: Billcoe When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: RIGHT ON for getting another line done George. Looking forward to doing it. Nice write up!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : AlpenGlow (aka Upper Kueffl...
By: Billcoe When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Right on! Way to get it done man!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Congrats on the First Free Ascent Matt. I know 2 of the 3 FA dudes. In fact I ran into Neil out there just last year. I'm pretty sure that they would have OK'ed slapping in some bolts to protect a free ascent attempt. Had you done so and then clipped them as you freed all of the moves, it would have been acknowledged as a FFA by the community. Yet you chose to preplace the pro instead, and the rest of us climbing at a lesser level all know that it was much, much bolder and challenging for you th... more >>


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : The Steeple : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 21, 2012

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Comments: Scott added another rap point so that the rappel can be done with only a single 60 meter rope.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : The Steeple : Beckey Route (5.3) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: Those cobbles and rocks are welded in place.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : The Steeple : Brother Mike (5.10-) : Photo
By: Billcoe When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: The rock is solid, sort of an andesitic cross between Smith Rock Welded Tuft and Maple Canyon cobbles.


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral : Main Area : The Salathe Highway (5.6 R)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: Haha, ^^^funny stuff Tyler. You weren't even born then. LOL.

This route is most likely in the 5.5 -5.6 range. On the 3rd or 4th ascent, Ben Priestly noted that he cleaned out a shallow dirt filled crack that you can slot three bomber #2 Camalots in. It was recently pointed out that Tim Olsen listed this route as 5.7 X in the guidebook. That's very responsible and considerate as it would be the wrong place for an error by a beginner who might get sucked in by an otherwise easy sounding 5.... more >>


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Coethedral
By: Billcoe When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: Josh, it is in the new Northwest Rock guidebook. (along with a bunch of other new areas and routes). It can be bought here: portlandrockclimbs.com/portlan... and the description of what's in it is here: northwestoregonrock.com/

Have fun!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Jimmies (Twilight Zone)
By: Billcoe When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: The 1st pitch to access all of the center routes has no bolts. As it's been getting climbed a potential placement may have appeared here or there. The operative word is may". Or may not. Been just 3rd classing it although it's a easy 5th class climb in it's own right and getting easier as the loose stuff gets knocked off. Don't whine or bitch about it, just do the right thing and stick some quality Stainless bolts in if it disturbs you. The rap anchors are there both pitches, and @ 10 bolts on t... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (4) Maple Tree Cluster : Sweet Fucker (5.10a)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: If climbed to the ledge and the leader traverses right to the headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up SF, it's @ 5.9. Last week Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. It was originally done with gear and a single fixed pin, placed on lead, left behind. Due to the runnout nature of the climb, another pin was later fixed to keep a falling leader from auguring into the dirt.

So hearing that the pins were gone, yesterday I cleaned and re or retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fu... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Billcoe When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: [Quote=killis]"The pro bolts above this are not what most folks would call "too close", and I found the lead to be interesting and engaging climbing, with a line that required a couple of bolts to connect to the next crack system, the other alternative being a long pitch up a sandy gully that had nothing appealing about it at all. The beautiful corners and cracks above are the entire reason for climbing this wall, and would maintain an X rating without the bolts, period. I like X-rated routes fi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : One-Armed Bandit (5.7)
By: Billcoe When: Mar 31, 2012

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Comments: Did this with my son and his buddy last week. Singles to 2" Camalot size and single nuts including single small wireds -DMM brass Wired offset sizes would have been perfect. Touching any rock inside of the chimney seemed to make it fall down onto the belayer in large chunks. I knocked more rocks on my partners out of this chimney than I have in my last 30 years of climbing total. The second dropped even more than that, almost took out the lad who was ducking under protection and the rocks did ch... more >>


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