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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Devil's Punchbowl : South area : VD (Very Direct) Wall : ... : Photo
By: Bill Olszewski When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love them Boreal Firé's! Wish I still had mine ;-)
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles South : Lost Orbit Rock : ... : Benevolent Bruin (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good face climb - the upper crack is practically 4th class. That start is hard, balancy and crimpy; definitely harder than 5.8, and that's before the first bolt! Upper crux leaving the ledge can be done a couple ways but either way it's more fun and interesting climbing!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles South : Lost Orbit Rock : ... : Ursa Major (5.10c)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome climb and really freakin' hard at the start. Fun crimpy/slab climbing all the way!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles South : Lost Orbit Rock : ... : Bear's Choice (5.7)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet easy trad climb with a great lieback crux and easy to protect.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles East : Lower East Side : Katz's Deli (5.10a)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun fun fun. Great exposure surmounting the final headwall. The middle of three finger-curling plates blew off but the good news is it still left a nice, square edge. The better news is, that hold is completely unnecessary for pulling the bulge. Great crux to finish this route!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles East : Lower East Side : Bullish (5.10a)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally led this one. The 5.10a guide book rating is indeed generous. One or two moves and they aren't very hard. Great climb nonetheless.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles East : Lower East Side : Skyscraper (5.10c)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was an alternative start to this climb - working up the left seam. Only know of one person to send it that way; it was at least as hard as the crux mentioned in the description, involving some gastons and a high step. Unfortunately, the knob for the high step was recently blown off, leaving nothing.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles East : Lower East Side : Bearish (5.10c)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found another way to surmount the starting crux - thin edging just to the right of the mantel. Still at least .10b
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : White Face : White Flight (5.7)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was a fun route, good rock. Harder than a .7 but easier than the route to the left (Whiter Shade of Pale).
FA: Kevin Graves, Brad Singer
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : White Face : Whiter Shade Of Pale (5.6)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Blitzo - seemed harder than the .7's and .8's of BSW, anywhere in New Jack, for that matter. Thought the quality of rock and quality of movement was quite good.
FA: Mike Williams, Brad Singer
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : Mardi Gras (5.10b)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris – I’ve climbed a lot of your routes over the years. Good stuff. Mardi Gras is by far my favorite and the best easy .10 in Holcomb, imho. Thanks man!
Edit: I was telling Mike that day that you would take away a star and downgrade the route - I knew it! ha ha but really, 5.9? I was thinking .10a ...
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Motherlode Rock : ... : Belleville (5.9+)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You have to kind of work at it to get the grade - it's all too tempting to use the crack on the left or the better holds to the right. But certainly worth climbing once you have the TR set up.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Haley's Comet (5.10a PG13)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route, three stars if it were anywhere other than Yosemite. The crux is indeed between the first two bolts with groundfall potential, and harder than any .10a move I've ever done. This route is very sustained and requires a lot of technique normally not found on face/slab climbs. Fun and challenging!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Jump for Joy (5.9 R)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Real good route on thin holds, very sustained. I avoided the crack up high, staying on the face.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Anti-Ego Crack (5.6)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great offwidth, and I usually don't like offwidths! Used a #4 BD and maybe a 4.5 at the start. Sustained climbing at grade for 50' or so, then easy flake all the way to the top. I ran it to the Manzanita (190') then rapped to the tree on Sloth Wall, then rapped to the gully.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Just for Starters (5.10a)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I counted 6 bolts but they're all where they need to be. First bolt protects the lone .10a move; second bolt protects 5.7 moves. A yellow Alien can be placed high in the final runout and a medium cam can be used down low, if one climbs the cracks to the first bolt.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Sloth Wall (5.7)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Real good route on good rock. I'd give it 3 stars if it didn't downgrade so dramatically. Worth doing nonetheless as the lower system is all of 5.7 and the upper slab is runout and fun.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Center (5.6)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route! P2 is definitely one of the best easy pitches in the Valley. Get there early to avoid the crowd and the relentless sun.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Seven (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route and a more aesthetic start to After Six. The crux is no issue but the crack climbing is real committing.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Knob Hill : Pot Belly (5.9)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent climb but short. The face moves to gain the crack are slick - 5.9. The transition feels 5.7 but the rest of the crack is easy.
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Location: Jason Partin : Pics : Photo
By: Bill Olszewski When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A non-micro, non-American beer? For shame!
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Location: Jason Partin : Pics : Photo
By: Bill Olszewski When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is he, a freakin' Sherpa?
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Devil's Punchbowl : North area : Attitude Wall
By: Bill Olszewski When: Apr 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be aware that as of April ’09 there are two active bee hives in this wall, one in a hole up and right of the routes on the far right side, another up and right of the anchors for Joke Book on the southeast face. This latter swarm chased some climbers from the 5.10b that is immediately right of Joke Book.
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Location: CA : Riverside County : Big Rock : The Sundeck : Top Rope (5.10a)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Apr 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As I have no idea as to the history of this climb, I don’t know the reasoning behind the rating given (from the old topo sign next to the Big Rock trail and echoed in the Mayr guide). We flailed and hung and cussed our way up the seams – I’d rate that line as at least 5.10b/c crack climbing. To stay on the face climbing the old bolt line is excruciating and must be hard 5.11; I’d appreciate any input on this route.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Skyline Pinnacle (5.7)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the new Kennedy-Hubbard guide book this climb is simply known as “Skyline”. “Skyline Pinnacle” comes from the old (early 90’s) guide pamphlet for Mission Gorge.
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