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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The Wedge: NO need to engage it except as needed to clip the first bolt. Instead, I can assure that one and only one of the following techniques can significantly ease the difficulty (height independent!):
Edit: I'm just sayin, there is an easier way than using offwidth techniques. (just say "no" to spelunking)
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Hill's Route 2 (5.6 PG13)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, You mentioned Kline seeming to start the route on the right side of the buttress. The crack there is quite attractive for a ways (one pitch?). On a different day and on the way to different route, I noticed one can hike for a few minutes SE of the buttress to get a better look at the terrain between the top of the crack and the top of the buttress. Some study with binoculars might inspire.
The description has been updated based on my partner's recollection (Dean Kuethe).
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to ewe for staying up there for us. After the initial trail of P3 bolt line ends, she certainly guides the way to the anchors.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Mt. Chaktar : Courage of the Fearless Cre... (5.9+ PG13)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, BenJamN, no pictures. The only camera in our group was over on Warpath that day! We only had Bob Kerry's topo to go by. With maybe a half hour study near the base, that was enough! But if someone has a photo of this side of Chaktar, I'd be happy to mark it with the route.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Mouth of a Sailor (5.8+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you R.A.! It is an enjoyable climb.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Mt. Chaktar : Courage of the Fearless Cre... (5.9+ PG13)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to my sister, Joan, for enduring my partnership on yet another fine multi-pitch adventure climb!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We had issues with a chewed hole in a food pack left at the base of a climb. On several other days, we instead brought a backpack-style aluminum pot and lid for the food and put a large rock on top of that. Worked 3 out of 4 times with the 4th being a case where the pot was not supported on the sides and/or the hold-down rock being too light (~10 pounds). ... and leave pack pockets open.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Muttonhead
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leave the approach for Ewephoria at the very first switchback in the gully by continuing to traverse left and a little up to the base of Muttonhead. Here, there will be a rock tunnel. Enter that and then downclimb 10 or so feet (easy). Continue to traverse below Muttonhead until reaching the desired climb.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Hail Peak
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went out there about 45 years afterwards when Mark Grazier and I did a counterclockwise circumnavigation of the peak. We got hailed on coming up the east side. The name sticks!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Frog : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whheeeeeekk!
:-)
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Yataghan : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps. Depends on whether there are also a couple gear options around.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, Harry the Hippo!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The perfect caption for the photo!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, John. Sounds like the conditions depend some on the current activity level. I'll give it a go one of these days.
An informational note about descending the Knife Edge: Of course there are the merits of free-soloing. I have also been down this twice with folks not up for that. We hung a fully stretched-out 60 meter rope to get nearly down to The W and then another rope as a "hand line" across The W. When incorporating this into a descent of the Knife Edge, it can take several hours... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 'T' Line: I agree with Chris that the first pitch of "T" has great climbing at about 5.7 at a kind of bulge. There's a nice belay ledge right at 30 meters. As indicated by Chris, the stacked blocks mid-way on P2 are scarey especially if another party were actively climbing below!
An alternative to P2 of "T": At the nice belay ledge at 30 meters, cut directly left on small convenient steps and run-out moderately-easy terrain to a dirty ledge. Head up along the obvious crack into a low... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Standard S Route (5.6)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some comments on the following technical pitch: "From here, traverse left on a ledge with trees, climb up onto a narrowing ledge that ends by a left-facing dihedral. Make a move down and left into the dihedral, before climbing up, back right onto a little prow and mantel up by a tree with a sling on it." We tried two variations this time: i) There is a more direct albeit run-out line to the obvious tree and onward by starting before the end of the ledge - apparently seldom climbed ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Estrellita : Beat Around the Bush (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, but then I'd have to bring Estrellita down to 5.7. :-)
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marc, Going down the ramp instead of Chimney Canyon sounds enticing. How is the terrain between the base of Procrastination and the highest well-defined part of the Fletcher Trail? Last year I went down the descent you suggest as far as the base of Procrastination - cool and adventurous (thanks for whoever put up the fixed rope!). This year, I've been up much of the well-defined part of the Fletcher trail until cutting off to head up to the S Route - very good trail that far. I just have not ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My impression is that a certain technique (not lieback) in the section just below the flake makes the route Flake n' Bake about 5.5; even so, 5.5 may be a little "old school".
"The first pitch is pretty easy with good pro to 2 bolts with screw links on a nice ledge (assuming the 2 bolts and screw links are not the actual start of the climb)."
Bryan, the actual start of the route Flake n' Bake is indeed at the 2 bolts with screw links; the ledge there is called ... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : Northeast Corner (5.6)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The broken-off part of the dead aspen has been removed. Can descend on either side of the part of the tree that is currently standing.
I agree about having lots of hand-sized pieces. Of BD C4's, I had two #1's, three #2's, and two #3's. I used them all. Could have used a #4 near the top of the vertical line.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Robin, Given my pathetic crack-climbing skills, I was trying to gauge if I had a chance at it by using the corner. :-) Thanks! Bill
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daniel, My son led the P10 left-trending weakness and beyond; his partner followed with a hang or two. I then led to the end of that weakness ... and promplty down climbed back to the tree with my tail tucked between my legs - then followed the more reasonable line going rightward. Anyway, my hat is off to your and Jason's car-to-car time which was about half of ours! Bill
P.S. I deleted the route beta I posted earlier as it has been captured well enough in the description. Thank... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : The Sentinel : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the P2 climbing seems directly above the belay tree. If climbing with a party larger than two, the looseness early in P2 is all the more worrisome. Still, I think this is a route worth repeating.
For ending P2, we belayed immediately above the OW crack on a large ledge.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Robin, I have not been on the route. So, just curious: did you stay in the corner throughout or follow that hand-ish looking crack?
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Science Friction & Windward...
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rapping Windward Wall in two single rope rappels: watch the rope ends on the last rappel; a single 60 meter won't reach the dirt; but - for us - it did reach a ledge a little off to climber's right (easy 15 foot down climb from this ledge).
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