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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks : ... : Toot Suit aka Toot Suite (5.11-)
By: Bill Duncan When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Deaun is correct. The name since the '70s was Toot Suite, I believe.
Short, just a few moves, but fun. I watched Steve Stubblefield solo it once.
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Location: UT : Westwater Area : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The right most tower is actually called Ron's Tower, climbed on Thanksgiving Day, 1996. The route on the north face is called Playing the Flute. The left most tower is called East Tower at the moment, and the route on the north face is Fluttering Butterflies.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, apparently we can't have any dirt from our boots in the pristine snows of the precious Boulder water supply. ;-)
Nice shot, Keen.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : Crescent Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too was amazed to find no record of this ridge anywhere. I've been eyeing it for years. Thanks for posting the info! It's now firmly on the hit list.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Ten Essentials (5.8)
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can also do a direct start to this route from the Middle Earth ledge. Instead of starting up Syke's Sickle, climb up and right from the ledge heading for the lower reaches of the flake system leading to the Barb feature. The first pitch from the ledge is definitely runout, but good quality on relatively easy face climbing (.7/.8). The 2 pitches of climbing to reach the point where you can traverse in from Syke's is at least as good as the 2 pitches of Syke's. The final pitch of The Ten E... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's Candlestick Spire, a.k.a. Standing Rock (of the Maze). It's in the Land of Standing Rocks in the Maze District of CNP. There are a couple of routes on it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Dark Angel
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool find if you're into petroglyphs: head pretty much due south/southeast of the tower and you will soon come to a short cliff. Find a way down and explore east and west until you find them. See the photo of the moose posted above. Please heed the signs about traveling lightly and with care. The location of these are not publicized by the Park.
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Location: CO : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : The Sword of Damocles. (C2+)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've looked at those things for years . . . hats off to Paul.
Yikes!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : The Maze District : The Land of Standing Rocks : Standing Rock: Chortler's J... (5.9 A1 PG13)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, judging by the webbing, there had been at least 2 previous ascents of this spire.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Piz Badille : The Ridge (5.8)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of variations:
P1: If you are with a beginner, or prefer to avoid the runout first pitch, there is a way to traverse in from the left directly to the bolt anchors at the top of the first pitch. Look for the path of least resistance a short scramble up from the first belay.
P2: about 50 feet up, head right, to the very edge of the arete. There is a sort of double arete in the shape of an "L", and by staying on the bottom of the "L", one finds nice exposure. The climbing is easy and t... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Etive Slabs
By: Bill Duncan When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to the Jefferson County assessor's web site, there are 4 plots around and including the slabs. The slabs themselves appear to be on private land but listed as Vacant on the website. The plot to the SE has the house, the plot between the slabs and the road is vacant, as is the one to the NW. The plot to the NW may be the best option, but I have not been there recently to see about signs, etc.
I think the paintball club owns the land the Ding Domes are on, but not the Etive slabs. O... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Bill Duncan When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An alternative, very easy descent:
There is a route to the left of Primrose (Ed Webster route?) that has very good anchors every 50m or so. Three-bolt stations. To find it from above, rap the last pitch of Moses, and look for a large chimney, with a ledge inside leading to the south face. Walk all of the way to where the chimney meets the void, stick your head out and look to the right. You will see your first set of rap anchors within reach. Hidden until you poke your head out. Three 50m rap... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : regular route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Feb 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually looking up the second pitch. That is the first belay just above.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : The Sun : Better Lock Next Time (5.10b)
By: Bill Duncan When: May 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worthy route. Try the Halogen Angels start.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Psycho Physics (5.11b/c R)
By: Bill Duncan When: May 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You may be right Pat, this was Steve's opinion, and I perhaps spent too much time on that ledge to have an objective view. My rating was PDH. I seem to recall sliming that move more often than getting it clean. But it is a boulder problem . . . .
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Location: TN : Sunset Park : Climber Access Threatened a...
By: Bill Duncan When: Apr 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also learned how to climb at Sunset back in the eighties. It is worth preserving access, even if the climbing community needs to make some accommodations. I love climbing with a group of friends, and I love having my dog along, but these are small things to give up in order to climb here. We have many other areas that we can enjoy on our own terms. It's not too much to ask to work with folks and police ourselves. If you see inconsiderate or loud behavior, respectfully inform the offenders ... more >>
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Location: UT : The Glen Canyon National Re... : The Middle Finger Tower (5.9 A3-)
By: Bill Duncan When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only fixed gear that we might have left were the rap anchors on the summit. I think they were drilled pins. This was in '92, so it's a bit fuzzy now. Back then we only placed drilled pins, not bolts, so that thing must be a retro.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Lickety Split (5.7 R)
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: In case someone decides to clean up the retro anchors at the top of this route, I just wanted to suggest a good method for removing bolts that does not harm the rock. It's unfortunate that some folks first attempt to saw through the stud (chopping). Start by using some old blue jeans or a piece of denim or other tough fabric to protect the rock around the bolt to be removed. If the bolt does not have a hangar, you will need to add one. Using a flat bar and a hammer, with the fabric protectin... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Swaseyland : Eagle Rock (C2)
By: Bill Duncan When: May 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yepper, and it's easy on the eyes, too.
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Location: CO : Future of Climbing in the A...
By: Bill Duncan When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sent this link to several climbing friends, and if anyone is curious, submitted the following comments to the park service:
Thank you for the opportunity to comment on the climbing management plan currently under development. I firmly believe that climbing activities can easily, and with very little impact, co-exist with all of the other park activities. I have been climbing in the desert for more than 17 years, including many ascents within Arches NP. I have contributed many first ascents ... more >>
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Location: Alan Ream : Here are some pictures -n-s... : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Dec 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic shot of Steve!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple : Long Dong Wall (aka Bell To... (5.11a)
By: Bill Duncan When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: ACCESS:
The easiest access to this tower is to park on Rim Rock Drive behind the tower about a quarter to a half mile and hike/scramble down the slope to the north. This is a very easy descent. If you park and do some looking/searching off the road to the north, you will easily find the route down. Once in the valley, simply begin traversing towards the tower. I'd say about 20-25 minute approach.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Arrived at the base of the North Ridge to discover that heavy rains of past couple of days had saturated all of the lichen to a degree that would make climbing a sketchy business. We decided to traverse around to the west and see if we could find an alternate route that was easier.
See the description for the west face traverse (the Barber Shop Traverse).
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fine climb well worth the time to approach. Almost guaranteed solitude.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : regular route (5.7 A1)
By: Bill Duncan When: Mar 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: If one begins free climbing at the first good ledge, the climbing might be 5.9 for a bit.
If you're reading this, then you've found one of those obscure, high-quality places that I like to seek. As a connoisseur of the obscure (remote = obscure in many cases) you might also like these: Arch Tower in Mee Canyon in Colorado, Tabeguache Tower in Rough Canyon, CO, and a number of remote pinnacles in Utah. Then there is Angel Arch, Druid Arch, and Castle Arch (better known, of course, but beautifu... more >>
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