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Location: WA : Granite Point
By: Bill Ballace When: Aug 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments:
Yes, you should absolutely buy Inland NorthWest rock by Bland because it supports route development. However, here are the directions per Google from Pullman to Granite Point.
1. Head southwest on N Grand Ave toward W Main St 184 ft
2. Turn right at W Main St 0.6 mi
3. Turn left at Old Wawawai Rd/Wawawai-Pullman Rd
Continue to follow Wawawai-Pullman Rd 11.5 mi
4. Turn right at Wawawai Grade Rd 5.8 mi
5. Continue on Wawawai River Rd 2.0 mi
In addition to climbing and bouldering there is ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Dennis (5.5) : Photo
By: Bill Ballace When: Nov 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: thoes shoes are so nice I'd like to take a bite out of 'em.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon
By: Bill Ballace When: Nov 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't the Solstice Cave supposed to be "off limits"? I guess that it is ok for you guys to do whatever you want as long as you have controll over who has the directions. Anyone who wants the beta for this crag can email me directly.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Gurka (5.12-)
By: Bill Ballace When: Nov 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is .12- then both Johnny Cat and Wild Cat are .12 because they are way harder. Of course it could just be the size of my digits.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Glue Slippage (5.12b)
By: Bill Ballace When: Nov 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone climbing at this level will certainly understand the subtlety of pulling down rather than out when they reach the "Frisbee" in question. Certainly this route is better than one star. Not a classic, but very good, and well worth doing, especially for the unique lower crux.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 1. Bat Cave : Fang Shui (5.12c)
By: Bill Ballace When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route but be aware of loose rock!
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 1. Bat Cave
By: Bill Ballace When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled one hold and literally felt another crumble in my hand, so it is highly advisable to wear a helmet and have your belayer in location free from possible debris. I realize that this is a newish area and New Mexico does not see a lot of traffic but between here and Utopian Vista I pulled three holds (btw I weigh 150lbs so it isn't like I'm some monster of a human). If these two areas see some traffic and clean up some they will be great. I really like the movement that this rock yields.
... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Vista Verde Crag : 1. Bat Cave : Axis of Evil (5.13a)
By: Bill Ballace When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice description of the route, I find the location to be particularly helpful!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.12a)
By: Bill Ballace When: Oct 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another sustained fifty feet of the headwall and this would be one of the best 5.11c's in the Front Range, maybe even as good as Lost Planet Airman or Taping Tendons. By comparison, many find "Bullet The Brown Cloud, .11a/b, at Brown Cloud" to be significantly more difficult. This route is definitely worth doing if you are already here or if you are looking to break into 5.11 errrr I mean 5.12.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: Bill Ballace When: Jul 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awsome route! Get on it.
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Location: ID : Massacre Rocks
By: Bill Ballace When: Jul 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprisingly "Rocn'n Road", by Tim Toula, Gives this area four out of five stars, while he gives City of Rocks only three. This makes me want to check Massacre out.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock
By: Bill Ballace When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: So this crag should have afternoon shade, say after 5:00 pm?
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Bill Ballace When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook can be purchased in Tensleep at the general store (Dirty Sally's). I remember that there was some sort of issue with the owner not taking credit cards so plan on paying with cash ~$20 if I remember correctly. I also believe that the Wildernessexchange in Denver will have it. If you are coming up through Denver that is probably your best bet.
From Huey's website:
"Pick up a copy of the Tensleep Guide at DIRTY SALLY'S Ice Cream shop in Tensleep, The Wild Iris Mountain Store in down... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Bill Ballace When: May 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Book for the area is good. The only problem is that routes are going in so fast that there is a new book out each year. I wish that Huey would publish just the additional routes as a companion. I still recommend that you buy the book and head out to Ten Sleep if you have not been. Unless of course you don't like sport climbing because it is not pure enough for you, or whatever. If you don't like clipping bolts then you will hate Ten Sleep as much as you hate Shelf, Lander, Rifle, Utah Hills... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Spontaneous Combustion (5.12a)
By: Bill Ballace When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The move to get established on the route is technical and somewhat dynamic, but it is also true that the rest of the route is not that difficult. I am not sure how I would grade this route but, I will say that this is a great route.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Killer Cave : Bush Doctor (5.12a) : Photo
By: Bill Ballace When: Apr 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, that is me, Bill Ballace. Nice picture Jesse!
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Wonderland
By: Bill Ballace When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good point Bruce. However, some of the administrators do feel that they have a responsibility to maintain crag secrecy if they feel that access could be compromised as a result of increased traffic. For an example of this check out Last Chance Canyon, NM. I am by no means saying that this is what should happen here, just pointing out that administrators have removed directions from the site.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon
By: Bill Ballace When: Feb 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you wanted to keep LCC on the "DL" then why did you post pictures of couch potato on rockclimbing.com? As for the "access issues" the camping is in a designated firewood cutting area. The locals in Queens are super friendly and would probably like the area become more popular because they run a restaurant in a very remote part of NM. This stated, unless the "locals" from Texas can provide some concrete evidence of a real access issue, then I think LCC should be added. It will never become a d... more >>
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Location: CO : Splitter Camps - Plug!
By: Bill Ballace When: Jan 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look at what you've started Dave Meyers.....
Now people are telling the world to not install rap anchors at the Creek which is laughable.
Personally I think that the splitter camps are unnecessary. Learning to crack climb at the Creek is not that hard that it requires instructional camps. Most people at the Creek are more than willing to give pointers. It seems like nothing more than an excuse for guides to create some buzz and make some money.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Bill Ballace When: Aug 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look People. The Wall of Justice IS NOT the toilet area for Highwire Crag! I visited it yesterday and was disgusted by the abundance of human feces, toilet paper, etc in the vicinity. If you have to go, go somewhere else. If you see someone headed over there to crap there, remind them that the Wall of Justice and the surrounding area are not the shitter.
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon
By: Bill Ballace When: Jun 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last Chance Chance Canyon near Queens and Siting Bull falls is incredible. An area of highly pocketed, limestone caves. Not one cave but twenty or thirty. It just needs to be drilled up. Maybe someone wants to add directions to the site.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Crack of Dawn (5.10b)
By: Bill Ballace When: Feb 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shelf is a designated sport area. I'm not going to bring my gear here, so the fact that this crack is bolted doesn't really distract from its greatness.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Arnold! Arnold! (5.11d)
By: Bill Ballace When: Feb 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this is indeed a sweet, sweet route. I wish it were longer and steeper, then I could give it an other star. Amazingly this route is not that traveled. There is not a lot of chalk on it marking the holds and there is sand in the pockets. It actually makes for some interesting route finding. Go right and you might find it feeling hard for the grade.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Ejection Seat (5.12b/c)
By: Bill Ballace When: Feb 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The key to this route was moving through the steep lower part quickly. There is a place to shake out and chalk before the crux but I couldn't get a great rest here so dialing the steepness was a must. Definitely one of the more unique routes at Shelf and a nice change of pace from the mostly vertical climbing there.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Back To The Future (5.11b/c)
By: Bill Ballace When: Feb 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf. The bolt at the crux must have been replaced because it looked good to me.
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