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On top of Independence Monument


Member Since: Sep 6, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Bill Wright


Point Rank: # 1,209
Total Points: 497
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bill Wright been climbing?










Contributions


All 225 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 66 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 8 | Stars 23 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 9, 2002

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Comments: Another alternate way to rappel this route with one rope, is to climb up and left to the rappel anchors mid-way up to the start of the Naked Edge. This is sort of hard to describe, but it is up and left for sixty feet or so and is on top of a big boulder. From here, you rappel down to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of T2 and then to the ground. An additional advantage is that you can now toprope the dangerous, difficult, and very cool start to T2. I think you need a 60-meter rope to d... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : The Flying Buttress (5.9)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 9, 2002

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Comments: I agree with Bryson in that the direct third pitch over the roof is highly recommended. It is steep and burly, but the holds are huge and no fist jamming is required. The position and exposure are excellent and it keeps you in the sun. Fun stuff.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 7, 2002

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Comments: I was in to the East Face cirque this past Monday and conditions in there are very dangerous. Lambs Slide has serious rockfall every 30 minutes - climbing it is practically suicide. While I was in there two climbers were going up Stettner's Ledges and huge rockfall went right over them twice! I thought for sure they were dead the first time. I can't believe they continued up.

Rocks were falling from many places along Broadway. This might have been all climber initiated, but I doubt it. This are... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : New Beginnings (5.11c)
By: Bill Wright When: Aug 1, 2002

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Comments: Ken's full of bologna! You can rest as long as you want before making the crimp moves over to the anchor and clipping. It is certainly a difficult clip, but not the crux of the climb. I found the crux to be reaching the mantle hold (where I fell off) or the mantle move itself (almost fell off).

Fun climb. The hard move at the bottom is by the first bolt, I think. It is indeed a very cool stemming problem. There is also a neat liebacking section by the fourth or fifth bolt. Lots of good variety ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 31, 2002

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Comments: I just did this route for a second time this morning. It is stellar! Do the variations as described above and in the above comment. The protection is good at the cruxes and the clmibing is just so good. I think this is a three-star route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Pit Bull Prowser (5.13a)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 26, 2002

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Comments: The first pitch of this route is rated 11b and is a fun route in that grade. Unfortunately, the crux comes right off the ground and involves a pretty intense crimp and a high step. A bit brutal for a warm-up. The rest of the pitch is easier, but continuous and fun. Clipping the bolts on the upper section is a bit awkward because the bolts are on one side of the arete, but the climbing is on the other.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 26, 2002

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Comments: Joe,

I guess it is the wimpy way, but the way you describe leading it (linking the pitches without using the belay anchor), the risk is way too high for someone like myself. I have also heard of people linking the pitches, but clipping the chains with many long slings. Seems like too much hassle to me and your method (of just using the RP's with the next piece way below that) is just too dangerous for me. Hats off to the guys like yourself who have the mental control for such feats!

I should p... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : X-M (5.10c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: I just noticed that this route has only one star. Bogus! Two stars at least when you combine it with Outer Space.

As stated above, if you combine the first two pitches, it appears to be quite dangerous for the leader. Also, as stated above this route is NOT dangerous for the second even if the leader fails to place the stopper above the crux as indicated above.

Here's the new information. If not combining the second pitch with the first there is a good way to protect the leader. The belayer cl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : South Face (5.9+)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 25, 2002

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Comments: Fred,

The 10c variation you mention is the 2nd pitch of Corinthian Vine. The first pitch of this route is the Boot Lead. The 3rd pitch is rated 12c/d and is bolted. I agree that Corinthian Vine's 2nd pitch makes a great variation to the South Face. When I did it, I combined it with the first pitch of the South Face (still not that long of a pitch). My partner then traversed left to rejoin the regular South Face. There are three different ways to do this traverse.

Bill


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Joker (5.11b)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 16, 2002

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Comments: This is fun, varied route with a brutal and deceiving opening sequence. Above that is a weird flare that feels very awkward and insecure. Finally, it finishes with burly lieback moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 15, 2002

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Comments: It is very gratifying to hear such comments, as I recently returned to this route and got crushed. I couldn't do the first pitch crux for the life of me. Then I got hammered leading the second pitch and fell off the third pitch (following, thankfully). At that point the fourth pitch felt utterly desperate. My partner, who cruised everything put the crux move and eventually got that, called the 4th pitch the hardest on the route (not counting the crux move).

I think this route is a lot harder t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : La Plata : Ellingwood Ridge
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 10, 2002

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Comments: Steve,

Your friend sounds like a friend of mine: Bill Briggs. His times in the mountains are legendary. He is also the record holder for the Third Flatiron Time Trial...


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 9, 2002

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Comments: What a great, unusual route this is! When I first started climbing it seems I was always at the Dome. There are a few great moderate routes here. I remember thinking the bulge on the first pitch was so desperate... It still is non-trivial.

A few years ago, with George Bell, I led this route in one pitch with no simul-climbing! Now this involved some SERIOUS rope drag! Why do this? We were trying to go fast and do this, the Owl, and the East Slab during our lunch hour. I'm not sure doing this as... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 8, 2002

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Comments: A few years ago John Prater and I did this route, car-to-car, in ten hours. I don't think that involved any simul-climbing as John was a neophyte technical climber back then (not the hardman he is today). You definitely want to be nowhere near this ridge when the electrical storms hit.

The approach is long but worth it. If you move at a steady pace and don't have route finding difficulties, this goes quite quickly. Great position and great views!


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Sphinx Crack (5.13b)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 2, 2002

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Comments: I thought this crack was created not by ranchers, but by Colorado School of Mines students...?

Yuji Hirayama is the ONLY person to onsight this crack. Yes, that means placing all the gear for any sport climbers confused about the definition of onsight, redpoint, pinkpoint, etc. I mean no disrespect to sport climbers in general. Heck, I'm one of them. Just the trend nowadays on hard trad routes is to pre-place the gear and I wanted to clear here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Center Route (5.11a/b)
By: Bill Wright When: Jul 1, 2002

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Comments: If you don't want to deal with the semi-hanging belay at the top of the first pitch, with a 60-meter rope you can combine the first two pitches. This makes turning the bulge at the start of the second pitch a bit tougher of course - due to drag and rope weight.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 25, 2002

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Comments: I love hearing fast times. Maybe it is spraying, but I don't mind it at all. I like to see people jazzed about what they have done. What's wrong with that? If it is a fast time, then I'm inspired. I think it depends on how you spray. Just saying your time is nothing to be worried about. If someone thinks that's spraying, to heck with them. Who cares what they think.

So, for fast times on Kelso Ridge. On 8/10/2000, Mark Oveson did this ridge onsight to the summit of Torreys in 1h25m. Then he bag... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 17, 2002

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Comments: Yesterday, while reading the comments for the Direct Route on the First Flatiron on climbingboulder.com, I met Joshua Swartz. He's on an extended climbing trip while taking time off from employment. He mentioned that he climbed the Direct Route on the First from Chautauqua Park to Chautauqua Park in 40:50. I figured you could go 5-7 minutes faster from Gregory Canyon based on the fact that it takes me about five minutes to run there from Chautauqua. Granted you wouldn't run to Gregory on your wa... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 17, 2002

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Comments: Alex,

Glad you enjoyed this route. It is indeed some great climbing. The Rover dihedral is lots of fun. Of course, you didn't really climb Ruper. I mean, you can't say you climbed Ruper without doing the Ruper Crack! The traverse is cool, airy, and intimidating, but the meat of the route is the Ruper Crack. Indeed one large piece is nice to have for that crack. It all depends on how bold you are. It is indeed nice to climb with a small rack. The size of the crack seems to be in indirect proport... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Country Club Crack (5.11c)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 17, 2002

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Comments: I love this route. I've done it nine times and still no redpoint of the upper pitch. Only once have I had another party on the route at the same time. If you want this route to yourself get on it early on a weekday morning. Of the nine times I've done this route, six of them were before work. This is the time to climb it anyway since you want the first pitch cool and in the shade.

Others should definitely share the rock, but I think topropers and (clean) aid climbers have a right to climb this ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Athlete's Feat (5.11a)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 14, 2002

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Comments: I just recently did this route got the mantle clean (on TR) for the first time. I not sure what "bucket hold" Steve is talking about, but this is how I did it. Undercling with the left hand as usual and obvious. I can then make a big reach (six feet tall) and get the crummy pinch over the roof with my right hand. Feet are very tricky at this point and you have to really pay attention so you don't slip off. Then I put my left hand on the tiny, painful crimp on the lip of the roof. I quickly switc... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 13, 2002

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Comments: This rock is also documented in a book by Freddy Snalam called "Get Out of Town." Maybe "Get Out of Town - Boulder"


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 12, 2002

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Comments: Sorry, Ehrett. Buzz Burrell and Bill Briggs are both over 50, and both have recently gone under 40 minutes for this route (though that is Gregory to Gregory, which is probably about 5-7 minutes faster for the roundtrip). They aren't fat, but neither are you!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: Yes, I have a page that lists some speed records. I'm hesitant to post it since it is so horribly out of date and lame, but I will anyway. Maybe it will motivate me to clean it up and update it. Also, send any speed records that you know of my way and I'll include them. I have actually done a lot of work on this, but haven't posted it yet as I wasn't done.

The site is: www.geocities.com/~wwwright/ColoradoSpeed.htm

NOTE: This are just the fastest times KNOWN BY ME. I don't claim them as ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : South Face of Tower One (5.10c R)
By: Bill Wright When: Jun 11, 2002

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Comments: Tony,

Damn right about that comment on Alec Sharp 5.11s! It is amazing that guy could get off the ground with balls that big. His routes are, in general, extremely serious. Most of the time his routes are marked S or VS, though.

Bill


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