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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today and just wanted to point out, if you take on the last roof over the weakness on the far right side (about 12' left of the huge dihedral), you end up on a nice, right-facing corner. At the top of this formation, the flake is broken. There is a loose block literally just sitting there, about 1' x 2.5' x 3". Please be careful!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Zig Zag (5.7)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. I thought P2 was the best - loved the knife-edge, left-facing flake, just wish it went all the way up the pitch! As stated previously, the cruxes are protected well enough; giving this an R for the long runouts elsewhere, sometimes as much as 50'.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Rattle and Scream (5.10a)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday and didn't find anything loose; I think it's all cleaned up at this point. The climbing to the third bolt isn't bad so the spacing is fine, IMO, just not a good lead for someone starting to break into the .10s. Took a whip at the crux - definitely harder than .10a getting established on the smooth, sloping ramp to make the clip. But all in all a really fun route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : The Corner (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't remember the beta so didn't follow the line for P2 and 3. Plus the dihedral on P2 was wet and seeping. Anchored P1 on the big ledge at about 100'. Ran up and left to the far left side of the roof, went around left and then back right above the roof and scrambled to the lower summit, about 200' for this pitch. For P3 (original P4) we went up the arete on the left side of the wall.
Fun route with the occasional loose block but not too loose, no harder that 5.7 (probably only 5.6) the w... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Convoy Wall : Piece a shit, pile monkey n... (5.11+)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Easier on top rope... ;-)
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Knot Too Many Roaches (5.10b) : Photo
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: So do I! Great picture, J!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Lefty (5.9+)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is called Lefty. FA Bob and Carrie Robertson.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Poncho (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is Poncho. FA Bob and Carrie Robertson.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Project Focus (5.10b)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's odd, I've never seen the anchors without quicklinks (if I remember right) on them. Anyway, not a problem as of 3/26/2013. The name is Project Focus and the FA is Mark Tjaden, CJ Sidebottom, Rob Masters, and Brian Shelton.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Skimbleshanks (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great and varied climbing, could just be the best line on the wall.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : 5.6 Corner (5.6)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe it's because I have fat hands and fingers but I thought this was considerably harder than 5.6. But so did my friends; Steve has average hands and Lucy has slender hands. The crack is awesome but the jams, and especially the feet, were a little tenuous.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Interface aka Slab Left (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Full value for the grade.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Windy Days (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, hard start! Will take a nice cam in the first crack if you don't want to pull the crux unprotected on your way to the high first bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Across The River From Butt ... (5.9 PG13)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is the money! Pitch 2 is mostly cruising and is not well protected over the crux, but the crux is fun and the finish as well.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Finger Crack (5.9)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome finger crack! Best 5.9 I've done in a long time. Two-hang on lead; flash on TR. A couple gear placements are real strenuous.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Arête (5.10d)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Not .10b if you stay on the arete left side, probably .9+/.10a.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route! Had to take my helmet off in order to get my head past the roof.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Show Nuff Wall : Manifest (5.8-)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably only 5.7 if you come in from the left (the start of No Fruit). The direct start gives this line its rating, imo.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Left Wire : Pink Wall : Renounce Action (5.10a)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with great moves. Harder than the crux, for me, was making the 3rd and 6th clips. The moves past those bolts are no issue if not leading.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess we got off route on P5; I anchored at the big tree on the big ledge. We went up and left from there, is that the next to last pitch of Climb Too Tough to Die? Finished in the chimney, bolted left face. I'm assuming that is the original finish. Really loved leading that first pitch!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, after the first 50' or so. The chimney (my apologies to those who like hard chimneys) really detracts from the quality of this line, and the offwidth just before the chimney isn't much fun either, unless you really like grunt work, ha ha. Once out of the chimney, Days of Future Passed is a 4 star route.
The delicate slab climbing to start pitch 4 feels more like .10a than 5.8 and lead falls on pitches 3 and 4 could be quite serious. 5.10a A0 R or 5.10d/5.11a R if you free the op... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route, too bad for the loose rock, otherwise this one would get 3 stars. This is the best line on Sweet Rock, imo, in terms of movement.
I don't give this one a safety rating; the route is well protected and a lead fall is therefore not likely to result in injury. (I suppose a lead climber could be injured by a block that has come off, during the fall) Your belayer, however, needs to belay well off to the side and should wear a helmet. In that sense, the route can ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : Thing Behind The Wedge aka ... (V0-1)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route - kinda high but all the high stuff is easy. This one is called The Hangboard in the Ute Valley guide.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park : South Side Area : Main Wall : V0 aka Crack 1 (V0- PG13)
By: Bill Olszewski When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the line the guidebook calls Crack 1.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : Photo
By: Bill Olszewski When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice. I'd love to see one of these bad boys.
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