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Member Since: Apr 16, 2006
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Bill Lawry

Point Rank: # 407
Total Points: 1,678
Last Year: 83
Last 30 Days: 4
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bill Lawry been climbing?










Contributions


All 1326 | Routes 38 | Areas 16 | Photos 158 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 241 | Posts 641 | Stars 139 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Rabbit Ears Slabs : Bucky Blue (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Just a note that the huge and totally dead tree in this Photo is currently the intermediate rap station. We found a long blue sling tied around the large horizontal section of the trunk with one quick link.

I know there are already many old bolts in the Organ Mountains that need an upgrade. Even so, a pair of rap bolts here would excuse the old tree from service ... and, hopefully, the veteran can come down harmlessly on its' own in a wind storm some time.

As an intermediate solution... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Slab Gully (5.3) : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Note that the double-rope rap lines do not originate from an anchor on the 'standard' descent of Solar Slab Gully (SSG). The 'standard' descent starts at a bolted anchor on the east side of SSG.

Likely, these double ropes instead originate from an anchor on the west side of SSG that is located "behind a boulder" when topping out from "lower tier" routes to the west. If so, at least one party reported some difficulty with rapping that way with a single rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: The description includes the following sentence:

"Rappel from the top of p3 with two ropes (or if you only have one rope, head down Solar Slab Gully)."

For descending with a single rope, does that mean one can get to a rap station in Solar Slab Gully by rapping from the top of P3? Or should one first finish another pitch of climbing Johny Vegas before moving over to the anchor at the top of Solar Slab Gully? And does rapping with a single rope work well from either side of the top of... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : Shillelagh (5.9+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Sounds like the description of the approach we took, Alex.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Low Horns : Gertch : Gertch's Folly (5.8)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 31, 2015

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Comments: Well written deproach, Marta. Good to know that double ropes have some utility.

From experience and if one is up for gambling on a pair of quarter inch bolts followed by a single bolt for the second rap, find the pair of bad boys just over the edge on skiers left (very nice ledge to stand on). A single 60m rope works. ... if only those anchors were upgraded with modern bolts (they were not as of Nov 2013).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 24, 2015

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Comments: Last weekend, the P6 piton held a significant fall - leader was off route - during which the leader went well past the belay. Party bailed to the base via Excitable Boys. Leader is doing okay.

Virtually all of the bail gear was recovered in a later climb of Excitable Boys - had limited daylight due to too-cold-to-climb AM so left draw over on Warpy Moople P6 piton. Next person there is welcome to draw. Or message me if you'd like to return it.

Piton condition is unknown. Would be happy to... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Bill Lawry When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: If we remove 2 or 3 bolts, this route might consensus its way up to 5.10a. ;-)


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: The second roof is also crux-y, above and maybe a little left of the climber (Hill's guide, 3rd Ed, pg 85).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: For us mere mortals ;-), there is an easier starting variation to P2 by going up at the left end of this ledge (Hill's 3rd Ed, pg 85).


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Regarding approach from the top, see this beta Photo for updates on the fixed-lines at the SE end of The Shield.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: 8 November 2015:

The fixed rap line at the SE end of The Shield was replaced. This is likely most important for re-ascending should something unexpected happen ... such as bailing from a route due to weather or due to a partner unfortunately injured on a climb.

An intermediate rap station has been included (at a tree) in hopes of reducing rope damage due to wind. There are also quick links at the top for rapping on your own rope. As George indicates, one can rap on a single 60m rope almost ... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: To do pitch one as shown in the above photo, one starts quite a bit left of the left-facing dihedral of this Photo. Alternately on another day, we followed another pair up a very nice line that stays just zero to 20 feet left of the left-facing dihedral.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Flail Out (5.9)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Gary, I like the story. It wouldn't take much of a nudge from you for this route to be renamed "Sylvie in Her Tennies." I doubt anyone would object.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Domingo Baca Canyon, Lower : Lower Domingo Baca Slabs (A... : ... : Jack In The Box (5.9+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Gary. I've updated the FA-ist part and the description.

By "modern rap bolts" I mean something other than what I was afraid we'd find up there such as a corroded version of the quarter-inch kind you mentioned - no offense intended - or find nothing.

The current bolts / hangers are fat and shine-y.

I'm hesitant to ask about the name "Naldo" - hopefully it's that Brazilian, versatile, two-footed, good-looking central defender. ;-)


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Rat's Rock : Lost Hole (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: Hey, Chris: Thanks for posting up what you found! As a fellow seeker of novel experiences on old Sandia routes, I appreciate the effort. Every now and then, some of them turn out to be pretty darn good ... even some put up by Gary. ;-)


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: The name "Christian Crack" comes from the old Loucks Guide. Gary Hicks indicates the actual name of that route is "Christian Rock"


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Christian Rock (5.6)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Very glad to hear some of the history, Gary Hicks. You are of course more than welcome to comment on the history to others of your climbs here. I've often wondered some about them. Cheers!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: The Green Thumb route in the above photo extends the Green Thumb single-pitch description (May 2015) by several more pitches.

Alternatively, a different extension was recently added to the Green Thumb page. It corresponds to Route 'B' in this Photo. This alternate extension is an aesthetically direct line to the summit on mostly good rock.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Photo
By: Bill Lawry When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This photo shows Pawn's Promotion heading far right beneath a long roof after the Pitch-3 belay of Cross-trainer. On the other hand, the Pitch-2 description of Pawn's Promotion indicates "staying with the same vertical crack" above the Pitch-3 belay of Cross-trainer.

We went far right which worked fine. Another party went straight up which reportedly worked fine as well.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Pawn's Promotion (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: This route is a very nice addition to Checkerboard Wall ... to me it seems much more enjoyable / rewarding than Cross-trainer.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs : Porky's Bad Luck (5.6)
By: Bill Lawry When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: For a 5.6-beginner lead, I suggest bringing a 4 or 5 inch piece ... placed inside right after stemming back away from the gash, stemming up, and just before moving right onto the face.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area
By: Bill Lawry When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: T-Storm approach ... got me to thinking about putting a bolted hanger with a rappel ring up at the pitch 1 belay spots for Commie Pinkos and Gnarly so that if people need to bail they can do so without leaving any gear. Your thoughts and input?

Brett,

I am not a "local" climber but often make a pilgrimage to the area in late spring / early summer. In general, the cliff at the traditional area already offers a low-commitment introduction to multi-pitch. The routes are about as short ... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : Wizard of Ooze (5.7)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: I believe the 1/4 inch bolt has been upgraded - nice work!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: We made our way out to Lambda Wall yesterday. Thank you much to all who put time in on making it clear how to get out there - saves a ton of nasty bushwhacking! I think our return time back to the car near Baylor Road was around an hour.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.7+)
By: Bill Lawry When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Yesterday, we followed Marta's description for Wizard Road (it is in a comment above). What a great route! I think it deserves it's own 'route' page - even if that consisted of words to just 'glue together' the first pitch of Wizard of Ooze and the last pitch of Yellow Brick Road. That way, folks can rate it, tick it, etc.. It shouldn't be buried in a comment! :-)

Also, I believe the 1/4 inch bolt has been upgraded - nice work!


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