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Leading the 3rd pitch of West Side Story.


Member Since: Mar 30, 2005
Last Visit: Jul 18, 2014
Contact Bill Duncan


Point Rank: # 191
Total Points: 2,633
Last Year: 209
Last 30 Days: 7
167 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bill Duncan been climbing?










Contributions


All 726 | Routes 52 | Areas 20 | Photos 353 | Page Improvments | Comments 48 | Posts 160 | Stars 84 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Mount Toll : Barber Shop Traverse (West ... (Easy 5th R) : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: The route in this photo actually goes waaaay right of the Barber Shop Traverse. Head up the first significant dihedral in this shot and then up and right, up and right.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d) : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Actually, the first rule of offwidth served him well. He walked up that pitch like it was 5.6.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Warpath Dome : Driven by Fear (5.8)
By: Bill Duncan When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Super fun.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: There is now a rap station about 20' north of where one tops out climbing the Ridge. 1 200' rap to a tree, followed by 1 80' rappel gets you down. MUCH easier than the walkoff.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Dylan Wall
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: Hi Leo, Thanks to the link of the arete (Photo), I'm fairly certain Michael was referring to another group of routes on a medium-sized monolith shown in Photo. The ratings also seem to support this, as the routes on what I'm calling the West Slabs are very moderate in comparison. I'll get some better photos of the slabs. Of course, the FA team may have a name for this area, and I'm happy to change this temporary label whenever they communicate their info.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Original Fantasy Ridge (5.6)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: 2 pitches to get to the 3rd class terrain. We started in the left-most chimney, and went up and to the right through some nice stuff and a switch to another crack, and went on until we ran out of rope (60m). Outstanding for its grade. The 2nd pitch takes you up and then left to the 3rd pitch of Fantasy Ridge, or to an escape over the shoulder to 3rd class terrain and a short rappel from anchors into the gully by the Left Book. You can see the crack to the climber's right in the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Bill Duncan When: Apr 3, 2012

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Comments: If you prefer to rap the route instead of Roadkill, then this tip may be helpful. As Sam suggests above, bring two 70m ropes. Go ahead and fix one end of one rope to the top of pitch 5 (the pitch above the saddle). Climb the next two pitches and fix the other end of that rope to the belay atop pitch 7. The other rope is long enough to lead and rap the rest of the climb. Once back at the belay atop pitch 7, rig the ropes for rappel, but then rappel on only the NON-FIXED side of the rope and ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : No Thoroughfare Canyon : Over the Edge Spire-Child's... (5.8+ R)
By: Bill Duncan When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: The trick to protecting the last 15-20 feet of climbing is not really obvious. I used a homemade, duct-tape-slinged, quart-size water bottle, and managed to "thread" this water bottle with a long sling attached through a tunnel/hueco. This took several attempts, but there is a huge ledge on the other half of the tower a few feet away, so if you slip, just jump over to the large ledge across the chimney. I may have used the A5 hammer to hook the sling from the other side. Once you have a sling... more >>


Location: UT : Lake Powell
By: Bill Duncan When: Oct 6, 2011

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Comments: Just FYI...this is a duplicate area. The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area has been posted since 2006.


Location: International : Asia : Japan : Shizuoka Prefecture : Mt. Fuji : ... : The Prince Route (Fujinomiy... (3rd)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: Great biru commercial.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : Crescent Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jul 15, 2011

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Comments: Keen describes it well. This ridge is worth the approach and certainly ranks among the fine ridges in the Park, especially for its grade.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Boulder Pile : ... : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Jun 10, 2011

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Comments: The thumb up higher I believe is the Naked Face. FA: Brett Bristol. Ragnarock is the large rock outcropping at the lower SW corner of the Pile.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall
By: Bill Duncan When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: I don't know, does "beginner trad area" necessarily = bolts right next to cracks?
I see a lot of photos of a good piece of natural gear in a bomber crack, with a bolt 1 foot away . . .


Location: tenesmus : The Swell : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: Where in the Swell is this place?


Location: UT : Moab Area : The Maze District : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: There is one under the Land of Standing Rocks. It's not the best pic, but they are huge pictographs. I'll poke around for more.


Location: Andy Novak : My Friends and I : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: Formal wear, and PBR. I think we might get along...


Location: UT : Moab Area : The Maze District
By: Bill Duncan When: Mar 16, 2011

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Comments: The road that heads north from just west of the bridge over Lake Powell, near Hite Marina (fuel!), is a good way to go. There are some bumpy sections for the first few miles, and then, about when you reach the Middle Finger Tower, the road improves and you can move much faster. 36 miles to the fork (veer right) that leads into the Maze. The road goes to hell at Teapot Rock. This used to be a full-on 4WD road building adventure, but has been tamed down in recent years. Still, n... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Bill Duncan When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: 60 feet tall = top rope. Why are bolts other than top rope anchors necessary?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine (5.8+)
By: Bill Duncan When: Jun 25, 2010

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Comments: 70m rope beta:
This route can be done in 4 pitches with a 70m rope.
P1: Climb to the base of the large chimney. ~210'
P2: Climb to the base of the left-facing 5.8 dihedral at the top of pitch 3. ~220'
P3: Climb up into the variety of cracks on the upper face. Many possible variations here. We chose a fairly direct line that had some spice. ~225'
P4: Top out via the route of your choice. ~200'

The rope drag was very reasonable and not an issue on this route. An extra set of cams in the mid ra... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Bill Duncan When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: This was mostly a steep snow climb, with only 2 distinct ice/mixed steps. There was a third ice/snow/rock constriction that was minor. We were able to easily solo all the way to the base of the final ice step, before roping up. See photos above. It is a good idea to arrive early in these conditions, because the snow is cold and more easily traversed. Once it starts warming up, it turns into a slog.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Tombstone : The Epitaph (5.10+)
By: Bill Duncan When: Apr 30, 2010

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Comments: Beautiful jams on this route! We found that 4 each of hand and fist sized cams are very nice to have. We also used #4, 4.5, 5, and 6 camalots on the 3rd pitch. Very nice to have large gear. Felt 10ish in more than one spot on that pitch. The crux of the route is definitely the first few moves off the ground.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lost World Butte Area : Lost World Butte : Pearly Gates (5.5 C1)
By: Bill Duncan When: Apr 30, 2010

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Comments: This is a very aesthetic place to be. Casual route, as advertised. Be very careful with rope placement on the rap, as the rap station is not ideally located for pulling lines. We were very careful and still got a core shot.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks : ... : Toot Suite aka Toot Suit (5.11-)
By: Bill Duncan When: Nov 19, 2009

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Comments: I think Deaun is correct. The name since the '70s was Toot Suite, I believe.

Short, just a few moves, but fun. I watched Steve Stubblefield solo it once.


Location: UT : Westwater Area : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Sep 28, 2009

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Comments: The right most tower is actually called Ron's Tower, climbed on Thanksgiving Day, 1996. The route on the north face is called Playing the Flute. The left most tower is called East Tower at the moment, and the route on the north face is Fluttering Butterflies.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Photo
By: Bill Duncan When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: Yep, apparently we can't have any dirt from our boots in the pristine snows of the precious Boulder water supply. ;-)

Nice shot, Keen.


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