Comments: The bouldering in Eldorado Canyon can't be beat, get the guide, Best of Boulder Bouldering, or Bouldering Colorado, the originals. Here is author Bob Horan on his static version of Never Say Never, V11. Never Say Never.
Comments: Folks have obviously not seen the detailed drawings of the East Draw, from the Colorado Front Range Bouldering, Volume 2: Boulder Area, published by Chockstone Press in 1995. In this volume, I name and detail the problems we established on the East Draw. A few of us have been bouldering there since the early 1980s. Great winter area! Awesome natural apparatus.
Comments: I remember belaying Skip on this first barefoot ascent of Wendego, while Glen shot the photos for his book, Vertigo Games. After that Skip lowered down, I pulled the rope and also sent it barefoot. We had been climbing strictly barefoot for over a year at that point. I remember a few days later we climb the first barefoot ascent of the Naked Edge and in record time. I believe it was 45 minutes, for what it's worth.
Comments: I named these the musical boulders way back in the '70s listening to a song by Peter Gabriel (Genesis) called the "Musical Box". I was on a bouldering roll, sent a load of problems, 5.13 style, and the song played in my head, before Walkman, before iPod, and so I named them the "Musical Boulders" way back when.
Comments: Saw this post recently and not sure what's being said here. It has been a while since I've climbed these routes. BD's book perhaps has the line drawn (#2) a little right, more like North Face Route, a 5.12 top-rope we did during that period of time. Easily deciphered though. I am hoping the bolts on Bobby's Wall have not been chopped. I'll go check it out at some point. Have had a lot of good feed back from people who have really enjoyed these routes over the years. Such a nice, isola... more >>
Comments: Congrats to Daniel for putting up another new problem, with Fantasia, V14, climbs the east overhang of the Cave Boulder from sds, sweet vid on FB of Dave Graham workin' it also, awesome, gotta love cave boulderin'.
Comments: Glad to see somebody has also sent this, I also rapped it way back when late 1980s, very slopey, balancey top moves. I have over the past few years been returning to some old problems that I climbed back in the 1980s, mostly for GPS readings for OSMP. Several problems appearred grungy, a few had trees or bush over grown in front of them. I believe I initially rated this B2-3, then was told it had been given a V6 rating. It maybe harder, if not way harder, and somewhat hb.
Comments: @Chip, Steve's way was to run at the face and hop onto it by using the dynamic motion to latch and stabilize onto it. My way was to start at the base and statically mantle and pull myself onto the face, (the crux move without a doubt) much more difficult than the hop onto, which I was also able to do just after hearing of Steve's ascent. The static way was unrepeated for many years. How many people have actually repeated NSN, via my static move from the ground, or done the problem at all, jus... more >>
Comments: Never Say Never was worked at the same time by Steve and I. We intially tried it as a dynamic, hop to the out left layaway, we were at that time unsuccessful with holding the move, but would push on each other's back allowing each of us to stabilize on the face and then complete the rest. A week or so later Steve sent it with the hop start, an awkward move but impressive. That was considered the 1st ascent, and the way Steve described how he did it. A week later I was able to statically do t... more >>
Comments: I do believe it is still bolted, and has seen more ascents due to its less serious setting, The tape around the wrists was used as a minor tendon belt. The finger locks are rather knarly and the tape seemed to help. This was one of my peak performance traditional leads at the time.
Comments: Keen, thanks for the heads up, I was unaware that a second ascent had been done at the time of my original post. I recall a few months back being approached by Steve Levin for some solo photos within the Eldo cave area. At that time I told him that my proudest free-solo was NED, and that of all the (hb) solos I had done in the cave area, NED was the only one I had only soloed once, hence, "one and only" in the caption, although I guess confusing. He then replied that Kurt Albert had also solo... more >>
Comments: Dave gave me some of the 1st prototypes of the Alien camming devices, circa 1987, a real quantum leap for us trad climbers at the time. I still use those prototypes today, although the newer devices are way more advanced. His spirit lives on, and his legacy can be seen in the pushing of the envelope in the world of traditional free climbing with the help of his great, "Alien" invention.
Comments: I did the first lead of Foxtrot with Skip and I named it after the musical group Genesis's album, "Foxtrot". A lead that took small wires and RPs to lead. This was before the days of the smaller, "Alien" cams.
Comments: Back in high school we used to call this the Flatiron, an one day, Bob Williams corrected us, saying that they originally, John Gill and himself named this the "Little Flatiron" saying that it resembled a more vertical version of the Flatiron, the Third Flatiron of Boulder, Colorado.
Comments: Stone Love was scoped out and climbed by Randy Leavitt and I in 1981, after the ascent we hiked down slope to the northwest west into Skunk Canyon and scoped out Grande Parade and Production Line on the far west ridge of its north slopes, we returned the next day and climbed those. For trivia sake, The Box, the formation on which Stone Love can be found, was the cover photo, front and back, on the 1988, Boulder Climbs North guidebook. The right-angling crack system can be seen splitting the l... more >>