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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Musical Boulders (aka- ...
By: bhoran When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I named these the musical boulders way back in the '70s listening to a song by Peter Gabriel (Genesis) called the "Musical Box". I was on a bouldering roll, sent a load of problems, 5.13 style, and the song played in my head, before Walkman, before iPod, and so I named them the "Musical Boulders" way back when.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Crater Crag of North Quarry : Golden Arete (5.12+)
By: bhoran When: Feb 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe a hold or two have broken in crux.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : King Conquerer : Face Out (V5)
By: bhoran When: Feb 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Flagstaff Classic.
youtu.be/x78L-B4FpoI
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire : Adam's Arete (5.10c/d)
By: bhoran When: Feb 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saw this post recently and not sure what's being said here. It has been a while since I've climbed these routes. BD's book perhaps has the line drawn (#2) a little right, more like North Face Route, a 5.12 top-rope we did during that period of time. Easily deciphered though. I am hoping the bolts on Bobby's Wall have not been chopped. I'll go check it out at some point. Have had a lot of good feed back from people who have really enjoyed these routes over the years. Such a nice, isola... more >>
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : Hill Side Boulders : The Cave Boulder aka Deer C...
By: bhoran When: Feb 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a beauty!
| A little beta.
Submitted By: bhoran on Feb 4, 2011
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : Hill Side Boulders : The Cave Boulder aka Deer C...
By: bhoran When: Feb 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats to Daniel for putting up another new problem, with Fantasia, V14, climbs the east overhang of the Cave Boulder from sds, sweet vid on FB of Dave Graham workin' it also, awesome, gotta love cave boulderin'.
| Cave Boulder's east overhang.
Submitted By: bhoran on Feb 4, 2011
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Ghost Dance (V6)
By: bhoran When: Nov 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did anyone do this before 1986? Here's Ted doing it in mid-2000.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Bear Canyon Bouldering : Hydrahedral (V6)
By: bhoran When: Nov 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad to see somebody has also sent this, I also rapped it way back when late 1980s, very slopey, balancey top moves. I have over the past few years been returning to some old problems that I climbed back in the 1980s, mostly for GPS readings for OSMP. Several problems appearred grungy, a few had trees or bush over grown in front of them. I believe I initially rated this B2-3, then was told it had been given a V6 rating. It maybe harder, if not way harder, and somewhat hb.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : Hill Side Boulders : The Cave Boulder aka Deer C... : Bambi (V11+)
By: bhoran When: May 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem was done in the late 1980s, not Thomas.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Never Say Never (V10)
By: bhoran When: Apr 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: @Chip, Steve's way was to run at the face and hop onto it by using the dynamic motion to latch and stabilize onto it. My way was to start at the base and statically mantle and pull myself onto the face, (the crux move without a doubt) much more difficult than the hop onto, which I was also able to do just after hearing of Steve's ascent. The static way was unrepeated for many years. How many people have actually repeated NSN, via my static move from the ground, or done the problem at all, jus... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Never Say Never (V10)
By: bhoran When: Apr 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never Say Never was worked at the same time by Steve and I. We intially tried it as a dynamic, hop to the out left layaway, we were at that time unsuccessful with holding the move, but would push on each other's back allowing each of us to stabilize on the face and then complete the rest. A week or so later Steve sent it with the hop start, an awkward move but impressive. That was considered the 1st ascent, and the way Steve described how he did it. A week later I was able to statically do t... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : La Lune (5.13a) : Photo
By: bhoran When: Mar 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do believe it is still bolted, and has seen more ascents due to its less serious setting, The tape around the wrists was used as a minor tendon belt. The finger locks are rather knarly and the tape seemed to help. This was one of my peak performance traditional leads at the time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Photo
By: bhoran When: Feb 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like a boulder within the Forest Area on the west side of Centopah Crag? Below the Line Block, there are a couple other low ball boulders with good problems as well.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : Castaway Block : Castaway (V0-1)
By: bhoran When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The problems on this boulder range from V0 to V1-2 depending on eliminates. A nice traverse has also been done.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : NED (Nothing Except Dynamic... (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: bhoran When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keen, thanks for the heads up, I was unaware that a second ascent had been done at the time of my original post. I recall a few months back being approached by Steve Levin for some solo photos within the Eldo cave area. At that time I told him that my proudest free-solo was NED, and that of all the (hb) solos I had done in the cave area, NED was the only one I had only soloed once, hence, "one and only" in the caption, although I guess confusing. He then replied that Kurt Albert had also solo... more >>
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Location: CO : Alien Inventor Passes Away
By: bhoran When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dave gave me some of the 1st prototypes of the Alien camming devices, circa 1987, a real quantum leap for us trad climbers at the time. I still use those prototypes today, although the newer devices are way more advanced. His spirit lives on, and his legacy can be seen in the pushing of the envelope in the world of traditional free climbing with the help of his great, "Alien" invention.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Foxtrot (5.11d PG13)
By: bhoran When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the first lead of Foxtrot with Skip and I named it after the musical group Genesis's album, "Foxtrot". A lead that took small wires and RPs to lead. This was before the days of the smaller, "Alien" cams.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Mt. Evans Bouldering : Area A : ... : Nemesis (V1)
By: bhoran When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clueless.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Photo
By: bhoran When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in high school we used to call this the Flatiron, an one day, Bob Williams corrected us, saying that they originally, John Gill and himself named this the "Little Flatiron" saying that it resembled a more vertical version of the Flatiron, the Third Flatiron of Boulder, Colorado.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Stone Love (5.10d)
By: bhoran When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stone Love was scoped out and climbed by Randy Leavitt and I in 1981, after the ascent we hiked down slope to the northwest west into Skunk Canyon and scoped out Grande Parade and Production Line on the far west ridge of its north slopes, we returned the next day and climbed those. For trivia sake, The Box, the formation on which Stone Love can be found, was the cover photo, front and back, on the 1988, Boulder Climbs North guidebook. The right-angling crack system can be seen splitting the l... more >>
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: bhoran When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sad news of another great , world class climbing figure passing on. I met John in 1978 in Yosemite Valley, and although I was not a close friend, over the years we would cross paths again and again, mostly in Yosemite and Joshua Tree. Watching him climb was always a treat and I always was inspired to climb better after being in his presence. His climbing legacy is one that is hard to match and his training and climbing methods are a template for the more contemporary rock jocks. Along with o... more >>
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : Tortuga : The Black Pearl : Anteater (V8-9)
By: bhoran When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job on the sit down problem, Black Pearl. The Anteater, I sent in early 1990s and was a little gritty, hence the rating, but still one of my favorite arete, face problems, I called the block the Anteater because from a certain angle the beak in the block looked like just that. I also sent some nice highballs (hb) on the block with the cross feature in it, hence I gave it the name, Cross Block, see Bouldering Colorado. How about the ratings of hard, way hard, or no f-ing way, or good, way ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Sleven (V11)
By: bhoran When: Jun 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job on the direct start, I sent the standing problem in the late 1980s, and tried a sit start but was unsuccessful in its link. The stand up is a powerful move which spits most folks off, if they can even mount the thing. Although a short problem it feels kind off highball. see Bouldering Colorado.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : Kor-Dalke Route (5.12a R)
By: bhoran When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good work Greg and David, a classic aid climbing odyssey freed as a committing, difficult trad line, which more or less zig-zags, following a line of least resistance up the sheer, exposed south face of the Maiden, I heard that a few of the old Kor anchors deteriorated when tugged upon. Way to keep the spirit alive.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Photo
By: bhoran When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in the 1990s and into the 2000s, I spent a few summers hiking the fourteeners of the Collegiate Range, on alternate days we would go for shorter hikes with the kids like the Agnes Falls hike, located up road from the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs on the south slopes of Mt. Princeton. One day I noticed a large granite boulder off in the trees to the west, I returned the next day and sent a number of highball routes around its perimeter and continued for years to revisit this classic boulder. Th... more >>
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