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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact bheller


Point Rank: # 586
Total Points: 1,060
Last Year: 186
Last 30 Days: 47
152 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 788 | Routes 52 | Areas 7 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 265 | Posts 79 | Stars 257 | Ratings 94
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Round Room (V6)
By: bheller When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Yeah, at first I was stuck 2mm away from that crimp as well! Then after 40 minutes of micro-foot shenanigans I found the magic stemming combo, gained 3mm in reach, and the problem went from impossible to comparatively easy:)


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Short Cliffs : Hex Breaker (5.11 PG13)
By: bheller When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: The rumors are true- I pulled that big block off somewhere around 2005 or so. It came right out- thankfully no one was hurt. I'm pretty sure Tedd Thompson got the FA.


Location: ID : Hells Canyon
By: bheller When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Not that anyone is asking, but my opinion is that it would be quite generous to even freely refer to Hells Canyon as a "regional" destination.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Creekside : Nairobi (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: I'd been eyeing this one for ages and finally got on it. Expect hidden, cryptic holds and sequences that drastically depart from the bolt line. More trad than sport. The first third is great, the finish was not. I second the difficult clips (poor bolt placements up high) and it being high in the grade.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Picnic Lunch Wall : Five Easy Pieces (5.13a)
By: bheller When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 2 is indeed amazing.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Kung Fu (V6)
By: bheller When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, I never have done it like the video either. However, the moves that I feel really distinguish kung-fu, and what the video clearly shows, are those of the finishing mantle. I didn't intend to create any more confusion;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Kung Fu (V6)
By: bheller When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments:


I should have been more clear- the mantle is quite a bit left, the finish higher up is on the left side of the arete.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : 5 Mile Boulders : Kung Fu (V6)
By: bheller When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Baldy sit starts the arete, and finishes at the top on the right side of said arete. Kung Fu shares the starting moves, then heads left on the overhanging side with the good crimp rails, finishing quite a bit left of the arete with an awkward, yet rewarding mantle. Much harder than Baldy... take 6 points for Kung Fu.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Bear Hollow Wall
By: bheller When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: I totally agree with James and his concerns with this "Clint Eastwood" wall. Highly visible, grid-bolted convenience routes that offer forgettable climbing... in a word- tasteless. You gotta ask yourself "Am I gonna paint that obnoxious hardware"? Well,are you,Punk? Like grandma said: "If you don't have the time or money to do something right the first time what makes you think you will the second time?" There is another wall developed in this style east of the dry wall as well- you cant miss i... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Snowflakes (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: Definitely not the best route for an aspiring 11c leader. However its probably worth doing if you're solid at the grade and in the area.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Blue Light Special (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: It is a bit of a sandbag, but then so is Liquid Jade to the right. Get your feet up higher than you think you should at the undercling bit and take 11b if you need it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : This Must Be The Pickle (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Currently no issues with worn hardware or draws. Sharp holds and some awkward clipping stances keep it at 3 stars. Finish by techy climbing right off the shoebox or go big straight up. A step up in difficulty from Knuckle Up- 13a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Cannabis Wall : Teardrop (5.13a)
By: bheller When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps the wall is in the middle of getting a facelift?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Cognition (5.11)
By: bheller When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: A new route at the Dihedrals! Nice!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Heresy (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: "Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball."

Your counting is wrong- but only by two V grades.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : The Bleaker (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: This is now the third climb right of the ramp- the first one (through the huge roofs) is Trash Kicker (5.12), and the second is Macedonia(.12c).


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Jackknifed (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Ahhh... kneebar!! Without it expect the redpoint crux to be the very last moves!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: bheller When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: I remember being sketched by that flake 5 years ago or longer... clean it off already:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Pocket Rhythm (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: A pretty lackluster description for a great route! Steep sinker pockets lead to a great and well defined 3 bolt boulder problem on the steep shield. A sinker mono and a flury of memorable gastons! A good shake then leads to the fun roof with high feet and a maybe just a touch of thrutching. Second only to Algorithm!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Isotoner Moaner (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: At the third bolt of Isotoner Moaner (nearly 50 ft up!) a pointless squeezed link up branches left. The three bolt variation links above into Secret Weapon (12b) and finishes at the Isotoner Moaner chains. The bolts are within arms reach from Isotoner Moaner (what a pity) and the rock isn't really that good... Its called Division Bell(12c) and imo is best skipped. Climb Secret Weapon instead!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Photo
By: bheller When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: That's amazing! My guess is we're looking at a gas bubble (in cross-section) that solidified and was later injected with magma. Eerie indeed!


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun, steep, endurance oriented route. Nearly 11a move after move all the way.

The quicklink attaching the fixed chain to the bolt hanger in the middle of the route (4th bolt?) is badly worn by the edge of the bolt hanger- its starting to get dangerous. I didn't have a wrench or a replacement quicklink, so I couldn't fix it. I'll fix it next time up there if nobody beats be to it, but beware!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Inspiration or Perspiration (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Check out the upper right corner of Nicola Masciandaro's photo under the Bombs Over Tripoli(12a) posting to see the finishing cracks and huecos of Inspiration or Perspiration?.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Savage Attack! (5.10d)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I spied this line from the road and because it wasn't in the guidebook or posted, my friend and I thought were were in for a ground up traditional F.A. We even scoped the route with binoculars and somehow missed the two bolts and upper anchor! Nice work camouflaging those with paint! It would have went without the bolts, but it would have been a R rating. Perhaps this is a Shilling route... who knows? We just added our own name (Savage Attack!), but I'll gladly correct to credit the F.A. A few m... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Claim Jumper (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Yes, incredible position on the upper arete and awesome climbing. Skirting the crux requires climbing wayyy right of the arete, so I don't feel the finish is contrived. However, whoever bolted this line totally punted in two locations. The first is the runout above the second bolt where you get established under the roof- big nasty fall potential here (although unlikely)- and completely unnecessary. The second, and worse blunder of the two is the upper crux section- after clipping a really high ... more >>


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