Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact bheller

Point Rank: # 566
Total Points: 1,198
Last Year: 192
Last 30 Days: 13
198 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 911 | Routes 59 | Areas 9 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 303 | Posts 80 | Stars 311 | Ratings 115
Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
By: bheller When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: The dead squirrel had the plauge, right?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: bheller When: 6 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Best crack on the elephant! I would assume the bolts next to the crack up high are relics from a time when ropes were short ( belay option) and large cams had not been invented yet. New technologies (large cams)have a way of changing everything- including common opinions. You can rap with a 70 from the top of Just Say No- a short ways right from the top out.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Pocket Rhythm (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Aug 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Well there it is...that comment means Igh has now made his first site contribution. I feel terrible that my "beta spray" which stole your "onsight attempt" was the catalyst.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Twisted Memories (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jul 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A good route, and a good warm-up. Stay left at the final bolt.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Photo
By: bheller When: Jul 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: #13 is Mind Bender-13a FA Bill Ohran- its total shit, and climbs the overhanging corners.
#14 is Ogga Booga-12d FA Bill Boyle - It climbs the attractive prow, and unfortunately shares anchors with Mind Bender-hard to clean as a result.
#15 is Storm Track- 11c FA Bill Boyle- it climbs the face right of the prow sharing the start with #14
#16 is The Mistake 11b FA Bill Boyle- it climbs the left leaning corner system.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Trash Kicker (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Jul 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, I meant meters, not feet. The first half is a fine 12a/b.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Ring That Bell (5.13b R) : Photo
By: bheller When: Jul 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Another shout out to Andrew Burr, photographer extraordinare, for his consistently amazing photo skills! Thank you Andrew!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Of course its never a good idea to have one piece of gear/bolt between you and the ground- especially when that bolt is 25 ft off the ground. The point is that on this climb C3's and brass nuts actually do offer adequate protection no more than a body length away before clipping the first bolt. This whole "add a lower bolt for safety" argument is moot- multiple opportunities for adequate gear exist. Also, I have redpointed this route many times over the years and only one time have I managed to ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Wasp Stop (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Jun 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Chalked at the base as 10+. If you climb it direct to the first bolt and avoid the corner it feels V3 to me. We had a group of people climb it, and its getting cleaner, but it will never be great. Also all 6 people who climbed it direct felt it was at least 11b.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Dream Destroyer (5.11d)
By: bheller When: Jun 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Bold and tricky between bolts 2 and 3 with some sustained climbing in the middle section. That low boulder problem feels harder than other 12a route cruxes in the canyon.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : Your Onus (5.12a/b)
By: bheller When: Jun 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A good route with a tricky crux (v4), a bit of choss, and a great pocket finish.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Lesbian Seagulls (5.10d R)
By: bheller When: May 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The above route information contains some errors.


A gem of a slab route that gets a bit strange where it meets/crosses Endless Torment. I recently spoke with FA party to sort out the intended line. Turns out Troy Anderson bolted this on lead over several days while drilling from stances. Cool. Tyler Phillips then was graciously offered the first true lead and managed to surprise them both with the on-sight for the FFA after it was equipped. Even Cooler.

Here's the beta on the intended route:... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: bheller When: May 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: SW- avoid your paleo curse by climbing down and right from the giant roof jug, and then tackling the overhang more or less straight on;)


Location: ID : The Selkirk Crest : Lion's Creek : The Hansen Project (5.10+ X)
By: bheller When: May 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Clearly TRAD. Grade V? Slow TRAD?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Paranoia Streak (5.10c R)
By: bheller When: Apr 29, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: At 2/3rds height, before climbing up and left onto the blank-looking steep face, micro nuts can protect a stubborn flexy flake. This is a most excellent route to sharpen the mind- it definitely has danger potential.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : The Hill : ... : Wormography (V6)
By: bheller When: Apr 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This one is another gem:)


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Apr 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I've also done it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Osiris (5.13b)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Uncommonly good write up David! Welcome to the proj!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Fear Factor (5.11d)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The name is Fear Factor, and I've heard an 80m cord gets one down from the chains. I think FA is Barnes.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Scar Tissue (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The start is the crux. Since the undercling left of the crack at 12 feet has broken twice now (still usable), and the little jelly bean smear pebble in the quartz dike at the start (left wall) has also snapped off, I'm gonna say its now a v3 boulder instead of the original V2. (Read between the lines- V3 =11c)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Silent Partner (5.10d)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So fun! C3's dominate.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Apr 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Stainless bolts would have been prudent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : American Flyers (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Apr 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The logic is this: those starting bouldery moves qualify as V5 and V5 = 12c. If there is even one V5 move on a route to a lay down rest to a slabby handcrack...its still a 12c, albeit an easy tick.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lebowski (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bheller When: Apr 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great write up!;)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: bheller When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed the north chimney with my sister on a deserted weekday and we brought one 60m rope to save on weight. We rapped the Kor-Ingalls and our rope wedged itself behind a flake in the third pitch chimney...twice! I had to climb to retrieve it and I did everything possible to avoid having it wedge itself the second time. I strongly recommend bringing two ropes and rappelling the north face...


Page 1 of 13.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!