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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact bheller

Point Rank: # 587
Total Points: 1,242
Last Year: 103
Last 30 Days: 5
207 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 1026 | Routes 59 | Areas 9 | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 337 | Posts 82 | Stars 357 | Ratings 146
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Red Corners : Book of Condolences : Xcess (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The choss was dangerous! We ripped off an encyclopedia(umm...5 ipads stacked upon each other) sized block that would have landed right on the belay area...scary! It seems sane now. The bolts on the upper half are terrible... I truly think this route should be avoided until they are replaced with stainless. 12b power and 12b endurance on this one and one of the harder 12b's in the canyon.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: bheller When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: In my experience the skeeters have been worst around July 4th.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : The Philosopher's Stone : The Law of Equivalence (5.12+ PG13)
By: bheller When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Alright! See you in a month:)


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Photo
By: bheller When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: I keep turning up more and more historic gems you have posted Miller! Thank you and please continue!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : The Philosopher's Stone : The Law of Equivalence (5.12+ PG13)
By: bheller When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Damn Alan! Do you ever bolt routes that aren't 4 star perfection? I'm going to have to book a trip just to sample your new bolt jobs!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Scary Canyon : Men Who Pause (5.11)
By: bheller When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Indeed I did re-engineer this routes finish circa 2004. I believed at the time that it was in the best interest of the small group of climbers who cared, and my actions were encouraged by my peers at the time. IMO it made for a much better route- certainly one of the few gems on the Boise basalt. We always called it 11d with the direct finish. I think it's probably closer to 55' tall. It wasn't until more than a decade later that Tedd caught me off-gaurd when he uploaded on me with his anger tha... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Mine cart area : Streaked (V6+)
By: bheller When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this is a Boone Speed problem, and they always feel hard for the grade to me...that could explain it as well. I also found the low start to be quite a bit above my level (I often flash V6 at Joe's)


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : The Greatest and Best Pitch... (5.10-)
By: bheller When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Probly the best pitch in the West at least...bring tricams and big Bros and a make-up artist. Also, consider donating to the PayPal of the FA to pay for his expenses.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Area : El Diablo Wall : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Sweet! Keep posting these amazing classic shots!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Red Corners : Book of Condolences : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Informative, but wow that looks ugly.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Power Dive (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: With 8 different link-ups possible, this wall has the potential to confuse...Power Dive cris-crosses left from Cross-fire's first large pod to share the same upper left line finish as Karate Wall. 12b endurance is necessary for the upper half of this 12a. A 70m barely puts you back down.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Power Line Area : The Wind Below (V7)
By: bheller When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: If you have fat fingers and can't sink that mono it's all of V7... And clearly R. At 20+ feet tall, you would be lucky not to be injured falling from the last few moves. Its hard to tell where you'd even land if you fell (due to the height and angle). Very beautiful, but it should be taken seriously... don't pretend it's not potentially dangerous.


Location:
By: bheller When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: As a patron of this site, I find tofu-brains postings not only helpful, but down right enriching. That T- brain is always pokin' fun and makin' joke. Don't take yourself too seriously.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Grushenka (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Feb 23, 2016

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Comments: Before being chipped by a talentless ass-clown coward, Crazy Train basically equaled a 1 move V6. There used to only really be 1 way to do it. Grushenka's crux allows for multiple different sequences and all are 6-8 moves long. A 1 move V6 is a bit of a rarity and naturally will feel "harder" than 6-8 moves of V6.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Man Size : Michelangelo (V3 R)
By: bheller When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: Very aesthetic slab with great climbing!


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Right Fork : Dark Canyon : Maxipad (V6)
By: bheller When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: Oh man is this climb pure!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Liquid Jade (5.12a/b)
By: bheller When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: I found the upper crux section to be an awkward and cryptic skin ripper. The lower crux was far more enjoyable- delicate and engaging.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : The North Face (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Oct 30, 2015

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Comments: A perfect line. Factor in the length, the exposure, the steepness, the areas of stubborn gear, and the sustained climbing, and this route easily warrants a grade bump from sunshine dihedral. Above the second to last bolt, in the steep red stone crux, a gear ripping fall that would eventually be caught by the bolt could smash you on the lower angle slab 40 feet below...be sure not to push that;)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Picnic Lunch Wall (5.12d PG13)
By: bheller When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: FFA Tim Garland and Logan Carr- two experienced Smith Rocks locals who willfully and intentionally showed up early on a Sunday morning, pulled our fixed ropes out of the way, clipped our in-situ gear, and redpointed the route while we watched from the base in disbelief.

The following is taken verbatim from Alan Watts' guidebook found under the Smith Rock Ethics section page 45:

First Ascent Considerations- First Ascent Etiquette:

Climbers preparing new routes at Smith Rock earn the right to ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Bubbas In Bondage (5.4 A2)
By: bheller When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 goes free at 11d. 7 bolts or so to a gear protected corner ( corner is 5.10). Bring nuts and small cams up to finger size.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Paria Point : Wind Sand & Stars (5.12 R)
By: bheller When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic write-ups! Thanks for your addition, this one's been on my list for years. I recall hearing tales of a hollow dangerous giant flake somewhere down low...did you encounter this? Also, would a 3/8 nut and hanger be good to fix the anchor on pitch 10?


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Bean Fiddler (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Techy, but no power required. The holds blend in and can be tough to see without chalk.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Yukon Gold (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Climbing left of bolt line at crux and weaving back in seemed the most logical path to me.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Jet A Sector : Jet A (5.12a/b)
By: bheller When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes of the grade anywhere!!! Also more like 70 feet long. No longer the second route from the left...grid bolts for dayz.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Digital Readout (5.12b/c)
By: bheller When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: ^ sounds like a blue metolius would be ideal


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