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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: May 21, 2015
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Point Rank: # 572
Total Points: 1,149
Last Year: 231
Last 30 Days: 4
175 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 858 | Routes 55 | Areas 9 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements | Comments 294 | Posts 81 | Stars 280 | Ratings 105
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Lesbian Seagulls (5.10d R)
By: bheller When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: The above route information contains some errors.


A gem of a slab route that gets a bit strange where it meets/crosses Endless Torment. I recently spoke with FA party to sort out the intended line. Turns out Troy Anderson bolted this on lead over several days while drilling from stances. Cool. Tyler Phillips then was graciously offered the first true lead and managed to surprise them both with the on-sight for the FFA after it was equipped. Even Cooler.

Here's the beta on the intended route:... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Membrane : Route 66 (5.12a)
By: bheller When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: SW- avoid your paleo curse by climbing down and right from the giant roof jug, and then tackling the overhang more or less straight on;)


Location: ID : The Selkirk Crest : Lion's Creek : The Hansen Project (5.10+ X)
By: bheller When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Clearly TRAD. Grade V? Slow TRAD?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Paranoia Streak (5.10c R)
By: bheller When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: At 2/3rds height, before climbing up and left onto the blank-looking steep face, micro nuts can protect a stubborn flexy flake. This is a most excellent route to sharpen the mind- it definitely has danger potential.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : The Hill : ... : Wormography (V6)
By: bheller When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: This one is another gem:)


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: I've also done it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Osiris (5.13b)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Uncommonly good write up David! Welcome to the proj!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Fear Factor (5.11d)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: The name is Fear Factor, and I've heard an 80m cord gets one down from the chains. I think FA is Barnes.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Scar Tissue (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: The start is the crux. Since the undercling left of the crack at 12 feet has broken twice now (still usable), and the little jelly bean smear pebble in the quartz dike at the start (left wall) has also snapped off, I'm gonna say its now a v3 boulder instead of the original V2. (Read between the lines- V3 =11c)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Silent Partner (5.10d)
By: bheller When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: So fun! C3's dominate.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Stainless bolts would have been prudent.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : American Flyers (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: The logic is this: those starting bouldery moves qualify as V5 and V5 = 12c. If there is even one V5 move on a route to a lay down rest to a slabby handcrack...its still a 12c, albeit an easy tick.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lebowski (5.11a/b PG13)
By: bheller When: Apr 9, 2015

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Comments: Great write up!;)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9)
By: bheller When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: I climbed the north chimney with my sister on a deserted weekday and we brought one 60m rope to save on weight. We rapped the Kor-Ingalls and our rope wedged itself behind a flake in the third pitch chimney...twice! I had to climb to retrieve it and I did everything possible to avoid having it wedge itself the second time. I strongly recommend bringing two ropes and rappelling the north face...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Parking Lot Area : ... : Unnamed V4 (V4)
By: bheller When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: No recent, poorly planned, overly shiny, low-quality material, un-necessarily placed bolts exist on this long time bolder problem;)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Photo
By: bheller When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Magic light!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Old School, New School (5.7+ PG13)
By: bheller When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: How appealing! Did you "realize" the potential for this line whilst rapping Theater of Shadows? Not many truly traditional lines at this grade! Great find. The art of nutcraft...


Location: UT : Saint George : Pioneer Park : Boy Scout Cave : Pink Toes (V4) : Photo
By: bheller When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Wait a minute...4 stars? Did you mean 4 feet?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Riverside Walk Trail an...
By: bheller When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments: The temple of Sinawava, the Riverside walk trail, and the Narrows, all seem like different areas to me...but i'm dumb and have an adenda. (clarity)


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall
By: bheller When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Wow. Knowing context of the location of that trap, this is perplexing indeed. It seems to me that trapping (esp. in this area) is a old and dying endeavor. Soo 19th century! Perhaps it was set by an old timer who appreciates the roadside parking and zero approach trapping that only the dry wall can offer. Perhaps he has no idea about the climbing... I'm really glad the dog was okay! I've walked barefoot in that area more times than I can count. Hopefully you took the trap and disposed of it- "Da... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Freerider (5.12d PG13) : Photo
By: bheller When: Dec 6, 2014

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Comments: Emotions, opinions, judgments...so incredibly human!
Admittedly, in this case, the thousand words this photo offers are insufficient.
After the Capitan had has his way with us, the base was scoured by my partner and I...the result was we removed multiple haul bags of trash (and literal shit!). As a side note, monofilament is practically impossible to detect in cheap digital imagery.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Les is More (5.10a)
By: bheller When: Nov 21, 2014

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Comments: Was that some sort of political joke? ;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Les is More (5.10a)
By: bheller When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Two options exist for the crux at the 4th bolt.
Skirt left for 10a, or head right for the harder version.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering
By: bheller When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: I, like so many, find LCC to be a cruel mistress...
Its a love-hate type relationship. With that said, here I offer a haiku:

So many great boulders
And such fickle conditions
Don't count on sending

5 good days a year...that's all we seem to get...its over till spring


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Gate Boulders : ... : The Anonymous Arete (V6)
By: bheller When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: V5 in the black bible... yeah, I'm creeping some of those grades...trying to be honest


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