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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact bheller

Point Rank: # 589
Total Points: 1,298
Last Year: 95
Last 30 Days: 47
225 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 1199 | Routes 62 | Areas 9 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 370 | Posts 93 | Stars 465 | Ratings 165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Tall Cliffs : Jet Screamin' Hooter Queens (5.11b)
By: bheller When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Peter must be bad at raising money...I moved YEARS ago... I wish I could just flyover that state and not have to always driveover it on the way to real climbing...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Blue Walls : Genetic Loadings (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Beautiful blue and tan streaked rock- among the most aesthetic in the canyon.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower Three : Virga (5.11+)
By: bheller When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Great route and great write up! Spot on Boissal. Techy thin sustained (and clean!) alpine limestone (marble). Balancy and weavy with hidden holds. 11D...Why? Because it's harder and certainly more involved than Medussa (perhaps a soft 11c), and its also harder than Shelter From The Storm's first pitch... 11d.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Now hear hear! If you're gonna bolt that damn choss crack, don't post it so tastelessly!!! Chomp chop chomp!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Pokey's Overhang (5.10b)
By: bheller When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Pokey is still cranking...ran into him in KY a couple of years ago;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Speed Of Life (5.12b R)
By: bheller When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Though of that Talladega...'cept all the other routes on the wall more or less felt accurately graded. What I wouldn't give right now for 40 degrees!;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Purple Horizons (5.11d)
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: With tenuous stances, and sparce micro specific gear that is difficult to place, this route is more deserving of an R rating upgrade than many routes that already have it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Medussa (5.11b/c)
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Drop Medussa in American Fork and its also the best 5.11 there!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Cheap Thrills (5.11b)
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: So close to 4 stars! 11c full value! Link in one pitch to the top and lower-pull-lower from the middle anchors.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Mile 385 Area : Problem Child (5.12c PG13) : Photo
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Looking at a digital image of the future...from the past...now past


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Mile 385 Area : Problem Child (5.12c PG13)
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: this comment, with true commentary. is fine, makes like no sense, atal


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Speed Of Life (5.12b R)
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Listed as 11c in the guide books...maybe someting broke? Maybe I'm just becoming light...Drew if you can show me how this is 3 grades easier I'll gladly change the rating;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Ankle Biters (5.11)
By: bheller When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Drew did you intend for this to finish direct at the 5th bolt on gear? Or does it traverse 10 feet hard left to share a bolt with Christopher of the Everglades and Bald Headed Babies and then traverses back right to finish at the last bolt in the small right facing corner/roof? The thin gear and holds are there for the independent/direct line into the small roof...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : To Air is Human (5.10d)
By: bheller When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Surprised it took me so long to climb this, and even more surprised to discover it's among the canyons finest routes!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Aug 24, 2016

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Comments: If only the splitter was longer than 17 feet...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Gran Hermano (5.11a/b)
By: bheller When: Aug 24, 2016

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Comments: This climbed and protected really well for being such scale-y rock...I liked it better than el Segundo...not sure it will really ever clean up...pity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : Jug Haul Wall
By: bheller When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: Caliche and hardpan are synonymous. It is a type of "limestone" (carbonate) that forms via leaching and deposition from zone A to B in the soil horizon of arid areas. Eventually it becomes dense and impervious, but never thick or cliff forming- it is afterall a relatively thin horizontal layer of lithified rock buried within the soil. Geologically, the jug haul wall would best be described as choss:) (probably just a rotten chunk of limestone technically classified... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Skyline (5.8)
By: bheller When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Gunk's grades are lies Andrew...don't ever use them as standards. Skyline has been 5.8 for 60 years...the underling is the crux and is over quickly. High Exposure is not accurately graded for US standards. I've climbed both routes many times and as a strange as it may seem at the 5.8 grade, High exposure would be more of a power endurance 5.8 where Skyline would be more Bouldery. Both routes are among my favorites.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Freshly Squeezed (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: I gotta agree with Leif. 9-10 move V4 to restful holds, then perhaps 11- to top. Easy tick for the grade, but 12b.
A good route for its style!


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Leslie Gulch : The Asylum
By: bheller When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: See the Einstein listing for a topo.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Leslie Gulch : Photo
By: bheller When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: The Einstein's pockets are unfortunately filled in with mud by nesting wasps nearly every season. If its been a while since the routes have been climbed, be prepared with a small flathead screwdriver to gently remove the soft fine mud, a long flexible blow tube to clean out the majority of the dust, and a tooth brush to finish the fine-tuned cleaning once all the mud is removed. The Asylum, presumably due to its northern aspect doesn't seem to attract the ... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Grushenka (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: You do realize that a crux of v4/5 would put this route at 12b/c right? I posted this route over 7 years ago as hard at 12c and later changed it to d after 8 people disagreed.I also do/did the crazy train crux just as you describe.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: @radspray...recent historical information confirms the direct start is the "only way" to climb COD. Pity this knowledge compromises your footledge start and therefore we cannot consider your attempt a "lead" in the official B.S. (Book of Spray).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Tulsa (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: A strange liine that diverts hard left from the bolt line around bolt 4 and climbs a bit runout up the dirty streak before veering back to bolt 5. Here it continues up a bit and then traverses right across the dirty and insecure slab to clip the next bolt at the start of the roof/buldge. It also feels runout here- a fall here puts you at the route's first bolt above flakes leaning against the wall...on an old rusted bolt. This route, like most in AF needs re-engineering and n... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Simian (5.13b/c)
By: bheller When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Follows the purdy blue waterstreak and then up the roof/buldge.


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