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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact bheller

Point Rank: # 601
Total Points: 1,259
Last Year: 80
Last 30 Days: 4
222 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 1095 | Routes 59 | Areas 9 | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 354 | Posts 90 | Stars 388 | Ratings 159
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Skyline (5.8)
By: bheller When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Gunk's grades are lies Andrew...don't ever use them as standards. Skyline has been 5.8 for 60 years...the underling is the crux and is over quickly. High Exposure is not accurately graded for US standards. I've climbed both routes many times and as a strange as it may seem at the 5.8 grade, High exposure would be more of a power endurance 5.8 where Skyline would be more Bouldery. Both routes are among my favorites.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : Freshly Squeezed (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: I gotta agree with Leif. 9-10 move V4 to restful holds, then perhaps 11- to top. Easy tick for the grade, but 12b.
A good route for its style!


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Leslie Gulch : The Asylum
By: bheller When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: See the Einstein listing for a topo.


Location: OR : Northeastern Oregon : Leslie Gulch : Photo
By: bheller When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: The Einstein's pockets are unfortunately filled in with mud by nesting wasps nearly every season. If its been a while since the routes have been climbed, be prepared with a small flathead screwdriver to gently remove the soft fine mud, a long flexible blow tube to clean out the majority of the dust, and a tooth brush to finish the fine-tuned cleaning once all the mud is removed. The Asylum, presumably due to its northern aspect doesn't seem to attract the ... more >>


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Grushenka (5.12d)
By: bheller When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: You do realize that a crux of v4/5 would put this route at 12b/c right? I posted this route over 7 years ago as hard at 12c and later changed it to d after 8 people disagreed.I also do/did the crazy train crux just as you describe.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: @radspray...recent historical information confirms the direct start is the "only way" to climb COD. Pity this knowledge compromises your footledge start and therefore we cannot consider your attempt a "lead" in the official B.S. (Book of Spray).


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : She's the Bosch (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: Yeah- Rad spray dam6


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Tulsa (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: A strange liine that diverts hard left from the bolt line around bolt 4 and climbs a bit runout up the dirty streak before veering back to bolt 5. Here it continues up a bit and then traverses right across the dirty and insecure slab to clip the next bolt at the start of the roof/buldge. It also feels runout here- a fall here puts you at the route's first bolt above flakes leaning against the wall...on an old rusted bolt. This route, like most in AF needs re-engineering and n... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Simian (5.13b/c)
By: bheller When: Jun 11, 2016

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Comments: Follows the purdy blue waterstreak and then up the roof/buldge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
By: bheller When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Don't take Zoso's bearish comments personally...like many of us, 90% of the time he is easing the pains of a work day and/or boring existence. The other 10% of the time he's adding content -you know "for the community". Climbing is dangerous and everyone has a different risk tolerance...your's may be lower than most.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: bheller When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Great Beta...would a double set of nuts with 11-13 draws/runners work also?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a) : Photo
By: bheller When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: On pitch 2 after the spicy stemming corner (5.10) continue straight up the crack- no need to traverse the slab right 12 ft to the other flaring crack. Although it is inobvious, the direct line offers adequate gear and two bolts like the Ruckman topo shows.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Lowe Blow (5.9+)
By: bheller When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, Strong Jim...what a noob;)


Location: UT : Lake Powell : Hite Area : North Wash : Trail of Tears (5.13b)
By: bheller When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: FA Scott Carson...his Magnum Opus:)
Later "Honn-sighted" for the second (or third...second Jose P?) ascent by the ascending master himself...Alex "No Big Deal" Honnold;) Amazing!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Speed Trap : Speed Trap (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: bheller When: May 17, 2016

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Comments: That was my beta too HOS... 12b this way I think.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Singapore (5.11a PG13)
By: bheller When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: It had been over a decade since I last climbed this route...climbed it again and wanted to say that the gear is indeed stubborn and awkward to place...and there is ledge fall potential should you rip gear leaving the stembox flare. Also, bring your sharp shoes...my blown out cruisers didn't like the small edges.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower
By: bheller When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Middle Bell Tower can indeed be rapped with a 70m rope. We did not go to the true summit of the ridge/formation, but found a stubby mahogany tree in a small notch above crazy choss runnels to the west that seemed to be the logical finish of Arm and Hammer and Butcher Knife. This small mahogany could use a knife and much long fresh cord to improve its function and clean it up (as of 5/10/16) (the ample hardware/quicklinks can be re-used).

Here's the single 70 m rope rappel beta beginning at the ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Red Corners : Book of Condolences : Xcess (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: The choss was dangerous! We ripped off an encyclopedia(umm...5 ipads stacked upon each other) sized block that would have landed right on the belay area...scary! It seems sane now. The bolts on the upper half are terrible... I truly think this route should be avoided until they are replaced with stainless. 12b power and 12b endurance on this one and one of the harder 12b's in the canyon.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: bheller When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: In my experience the skeeters have been worst around July 4th.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : The Philosopher's Stone : The Law of Equivalence (5.12+ PG13)
By: bheller When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Alright! See you in a month:)


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Photo
By: bheller When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: I keep turning up more and more historic gems you have posted Miller! Thank you and please continue!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (x) The Marsupials : The Philosopher's Stone : The Law of Equivalence (5.12+ PG13)
By: bheller When: Apr 5, 2016

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Comments: Damn Alan! Do you ever bolt routes that aren't 4 star perfection? I'm going to have to book a trip just to sample your new bolt jobs!


Location: ID : Black Cliffs : Scary Canyon : Men Who Pause (5.11)
By: bheller When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Indeed I did re-engineer this routes finish circa 2004. I believed at the time that it was in the best interest of the small group of climbers who cared, and my actions were encouraged by my peers at the time. IMO it made for a much better route- certainly one of the few gems on the Boise basalt. We always called it 11d with the direct finish. I think it's probably closer to 55' tall. It wasn't until more than a decade later that Tedd caught me off-gaurd when he uploaded on me with his anger tha... more >>


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Left Fork : Mine cart area : Streaked (V6+)
By: bheller When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this is a Boone Speed problem, and they always feel hard for the grade to me...that could explain it as well. I also found the low start to be quite a bit above my level (I often flash V6 at Joe's)


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : The Greatest and Best Pitch... (5.10-)
By: bheller When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Probly the best pitch in the West at least...bring tricams and big Bros and a make-up artist. Also, consider donating to the PayPal of the FA to pay for his expenses.


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