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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact bheller

Point Rank: # 582
Total Points: 1,226
Last Year: 126
Last 30 Days: 5
196 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 975 | Routes 59 | Areas 9 | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 321 | Posts 82 | Stars 336 | Ratings 132
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : The North Face (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Oct 30, 2015

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Comments: A perfect line. Factor in the length, the exposure, the steepness, the areas of stubborn gear, and the sustained climbing, and this route easily warrants a grade bump from sunshine dihedral. Above the second to last bolt, in the steep red stone crux, a gear ripping fall that would eventually be caught by the bolt could smash you on the lower angle slab 40 feet below...be sure not to push that;)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Picnic Lunch Wall (5.12d PG13)
By: bheller When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: FFA Tim Garland and Logan Carr- two experienced Smith Rocks locals who willfully and intentionally showed up early on a Sunday morning, pulled our fixed ropes out of the way, clipped our in-situ gear, and redpointed the route while we watched from the base in disbelief.

The following is taken verbatim from Alan Watts' guidebook found under the Smith Rock Ethics section page 45:

First Ascent Considerations- First Ascent Etiquette:

Climbers preparing new routes at Smith Rock earn the right to ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Bubbas In Bondage (5.4 A2)
By: bheller When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Pitch 1 goes free at 11d. 7 bolts or so to a gear protected corner ( corner is 5.10). Bring nuts and small cams up to finger size.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Paria Point : Wind Sand & Stars (5.12 R)
By: bheller When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic write-ups! Thanks for your addition, this one's been on my list for years. I recall hearing tales of a hollow dangerous giant flake somewhere down low...did you encounter this? Also, would a 3/8 nut and hanger be good to fix the anchor on pitch 10?


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Bean Fiddler (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Techy, but no power required. The holds blend in and can be tough to see without chalk.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Head Wall : Yukon Gold (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Climbing left of bolt line at crux and weaving back in seemed the most logical path to me.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Jet A Sector : Jet A (5.12a/b)
By: bheller When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes of the grade anywhere!!! Also more like 70 feet long. No longer the second route from the left...grid bolts for dayz.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Digital Readout (5.12b/c)
By: bheller When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: ^ sounds like a blue metolius would be ideal


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : True Lies (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: I think the beta is that its harder than 12c.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Boy Prophet (5.12b PG13)
By: bheller When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Do it;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Black Magic : Chalk On The Trigger (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: Great boulder start! Perfect rock and engaging moves the whole way to the chains!
Equally good as Black Magic.


Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon
By: bheller When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: It seems highly unlikely (impossible) that these limestone crags east of Cedar City were deposited and lithified through the advancing and retreating actions of Ancient Lake Bonneville for many, many reasons. The most obvious damning clue is that the town of Cedar City is 5,800 ft elevation, while the highest water mark Bonneville ever achieved at its maximum was 5,220 ft. In short, Bonneville was never even near Cedar City, let alone the limestone crags found around 7000 ft elevation east of to... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Hey b light- i had a similarly unforgettable day last time I climbed this route;) Just curious...did you know that usually on a rope V1= 11a and V3= 11c?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: bheller When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: ^^ MF gets a lot of sun mid-day and Octobers of late have most often been too hot for me (i hate heat)...I'd say mid November on a clear day around 65 would be perfect...as long as you can climb quickly.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall : Where Vultures Dare (5.9) : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Looks fun!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : No Lifeguard on Duty (5.6)
By: bheller When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: Another perfectly classic 4 star new route at division?...22 feet of 5.6 trad to finish with 8 feet of overgrown choss..surely you cant ALL be glue sniffingly high?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Kiddie Pool (5.10c)
By: bheller When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Good route- could use a lot more cleaning up higher. I broke two holds in two different places, both of which resulted in unexpected falls. Nice to see you used stainless hardware- thank you! Especially since the SLCA spent so much time upgrading the whole crag to meet this new standard.Too bad the pockets disappear on the upper third... When it cleans up it just may be worth 3 stars;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: This is great Perin!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Masquerade (5.12+)
By: bheller When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: I'm not surprised to see the suggested difficultly jump by two letters... AW certainly was rocketing through the grades when this was established- during those rare and sweet times everything feels easy;)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Great photo! Awesome you guys are doing more than "just hacking through the jungle
if only to gaze" at these forgotten routes!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Whoa...Imagine taking a fall while tied into just your waste loop.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Roadside Crag : Comment : Photo
By: bheller When: Sep 5, 2015

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Comments: Nah, its cool, that photo provides all the info needed.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
By: bheller When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: The dead squirrel had the plauge, right?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: bheller When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Best crack on the elephant! I would assume the bolts next to the crack up high are relics from a time when ropes were short ( belay option) and large cams had not been invented yet. New technologies (large cams)have a way of changing everything- including common opinions. You can rap with a 70 from the top of Just Say No- a short ways right from the top out.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Pocket Rhythm (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Well there it is...that comment means Igh has now made his first site contribution. I feel terrible that my "beta spray" which stole your "onsight attempt" was the catalyst.


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