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Member Since: Nov 8, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact bheller


Point Rank: # 605
Total Points: 1,009
Last Year: 140
Last 30 Days: 29
146 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has bheller been climbing?










Contributions


All 764 | Routes 51 | Areas 5 | Photos 34 | Page Improvments | Comments 254 | Posts 78 | Stars 250 | Ratings 92
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : This Must Be The Pickle (5.12d)
By: bheller When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Currently no issues with worn hardware or draws. Sharp holds and some awkward clipping stances keep it at 3 stars. Finish by techy climbing right off the shoebox or go big straight up. A step up in difficulty from Knuckle Up- 13a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Cannabis Wall : Teardrop (5.13a)
By: bheller When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Perhaps the wall is in the middle of getting a facelift?


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Cognition (5.11)
By: bheller When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: A new route at the Dihedrals! Nice!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Heresy (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: "Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball."

Your counting is wrong- but only by two V grades.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Forgotten Trails : The Bleaker (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: This is now the third climb right of the ramp- the first one (through the huge roofs) is Trash Kicker (5.12), and the second is Macedonia(.12c).


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Jackknifed (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Ahhh... kneebar!! Without it expect the redpoint crux to be the very last moves!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b/c)
By: bheller When: Aug 8, 2014

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Comments: I remember being sketched by that flake 5 years ago or longer... clean it off already:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Pocket Rhythm (5.12c)
By: bheller When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: A pretty lackluster description for a great route! Steep sinker pockets lead to a great and well defined 3 bolt boulder problem on the steep shield. A sinker mono and a flury of memorable gastons! A good shake then leads to the fun roof with high feet and a maybe just a touch of thrutching. Second only to Algorithm!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Isotoner Moaner (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: At the third bolt of Isotoner Moaner (nearly 50 ft up!) a pointless squeezed link up branches left. The three bolt variation links above into Secret Weapon (12b) and finishes at the Isotoner Moaner chains. The bolts are within arms reach from Isotoner Moaner (what a pity) and the rock isn't really that good... Its called Division Bell(12c) and imo is best skipped. Climb Secret Weapon instead!


Location: UT : Jungle, on the Aquarius Pla... : Pangaea : Photo
By: bheller When: Jul 30, 2014

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Comments: That's amazing! My guess is we're looking at a gas bubble (in cross-section) that solidified and was later injected with magma. Eerie indeed!


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Stone Garden : Sessions (5.12a)
By: bheller When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun, steep, endurance oriented route. Nearly 11a move after move all the way.

The quicklink attaching the fixed chain to the bolt hanger in the middle of the route (4th bolt?) is badly worn by the edge of the bolt hanger- its starting to get dangerous. I didn't have a wrench or a replacement quicklink, so I couldn't fix it. I'll fix it next time up there if nobody beats be to it, but beware!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Inspiration or Perspiration (5.12b)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Check out the upper right corner of Nicola Masciandaro's photo under the Bombs Over Tripoli(12a) posting to see the finishing cracks and huecos of Inspiration or Perspiration?.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Savage Attack! (5.10d)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I spied this line from the road and because it wasn't in the guidebook or posted, my friend and I thought were were in for a ground up traditional F.A. We even scoped the route with binoculars and somehow missed the two bolts and upper anchor! Nice work camouflaging those with paint! It would have went without the bolts, but it would have been a R rating. Perhaps this is a Shilling route... who knows? We just added our own name (Savage Attack!), but I'll gladly correct to credit the F.A. A few m... more >>


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Claim Jumper (5.11c)
By: bheller When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Yes, incredible position on the upper arete and awesome climbing. Skirting the crux requires climbing wayyy right of the arete, so I don't feel the finish is contrived. However, whoever bolted this line totally punted in two locations. The first is the runout above the second bolt where you get established under the roof- big nasty fall potential here (although unlikely)- and completely unnecessary. The second, and worse blunder of the two is the upper crux section- after clipping a really high ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : The Abyss (5.12c/d)
By: bheller When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Seems pretty absurd for someone to suggest this is a 12c. Easy climbing to a V5, to a poor shake, to a V6 finish. Hard at 12d.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West
By: bheller When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: I think I remember hearing it was a 5.11. Haven't climbed it though.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Left Be Frank (5.11a)
By: bheller When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Good to know Martin, would you like to rename them?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : Algorithm (5.12b/c)
By: bheller When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: A sublime route deserves a sublime write-up;)


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Hammerhead (5.13b/c)
By: bheller When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: JP once remarked he felt this was the "best" route of the grade he ever established.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: bheller When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: -Justa-

I hope we can meet in the future. I think you will find I am not a high-horse riding, elitist on-slaughting, black-eye giving name-caller who banishes aspiring lead climbers from public lands. I in turn hope to discover you are actually not a
puerile ignoramus:)


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Rye Crisp (5.8)
By: bheller When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: -Dear Beater-

If you are too inexperienced/ill-equipped to solve the T.R. problem you originally presented, take it as a sign that you may most probably lack the qualifications to "guide" your beloved friends and family up Rye Crisp.

Also realize that if you do set up a team toprope, (on a Saturday in high season???) you too would be imposing limits on others as a direct result of your "beliefs". This is climbing, not Nam, there are rules. I also suggest sticking with other more suit... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Touch Up (5.9+)
By: bheller When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: I think someone keeps leaving a sling there because when the pin is clipped it cross-loads the biner on the rock. I usually just girth hitch the eye of the pin.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The Crazy Train (5.13a)
By: bheller When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: There is evidence of freshly chipped holds at the start of this route. The top sides above some sloping cobbles have been enhanced to make the edges deeper. Stop it! Yes, the start is hard, and perhaps impossible if you are short. Winch start it if you have to! Boulder problem start begins with good holds for the left and right hands at the lip and your feet under the roof on the high shelves. Next comes a big, powerful move with the right hand to latch the back and left side of a distant oval c... more >>


Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Out of the Comfort Zone (V6)
By: bheller When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for setting the record straight Darren:)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Disco Duck (5.10a)
By: bheller When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Pay no attention to Boissal- he just likes to hide at height and pounch on the un-suspecting. Its his thing. For what its worth, I think Mexican crack has multiple 10a moves;)


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