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Member Since: Jan 25, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,992
Total Points: 102
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has BFK been climbing?










Contributions


All 97 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvments | Comments 17 | Posts 3 | Stars 32 | Ratings 28

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Peak 11,357 : Boss Man (5.11)
By: BFK When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Did first pitch and bailed due to several factors:
-Got totally worked on the first pitch (scary lead)
-Lack of psych due to how bad the rock quality was on P1

I am curious how the upper pitches are, but if they are anything like P1 I wouldn't go back. Don't expect much jamming on that pitch,... or good pro. I'd call it heads-up, sustained & bouldery 5.11b/c.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Finger Lickin' Area : Pinky Paralysis (5.11c)
By: BFK When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Best finger crack I've been on,... even though it's only 40'.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Finger Lickin' Area : Petty Larceny (5.11b)
By: BFK When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: Enjoyable route with a bouldery start finishing with some great casual jamming. If you're tall you can place some small pieces at the base of the crack while still in the left crack to protect the crux moves.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Trouble with Tribbles aka I... (5.10b/c)
By: BFK When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: It's not difficult to stay under the bolts after pulling the roof despite all the chalked up jugs out left towards the arete. There are good crimps,... they just don't have any chalk on them.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Jolly Rancher (5.10)
By: BFK When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: Definitely one of the best routes I've ever done and the best route I did during my trip to the creek. Long, sustained and yet has several defined cruxy sections to keep you focused.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: BFK When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Nice route, although various sections of awkward jamming (including the entire first pitch and 2nd half of P5) somewhat detract from all the hype this route gets.

Also, you can link P4 & P5 with a 70M (just barely though).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Morning Wood (5.11a)
By: BFK When: Sep 24, 2013

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Comments: One of the finest routes in the gorge IMHO. Bring your sloper game so as not to deck getting to the first bolt. After that it's a well protected arete crimp and sidepull fest up to the top.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome East End : The Yawn (5.9)
By: BFK When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Definitely found this route to be burly! P2 has the classic off-width/V-slot dilemma: -Should I go as far in as possible for the security of some (bad) jams and ease of gear placement OR do I leave the security of the slot and squeeze-chimney my way up?
If you choose the former you don't need anything bigger than a #4,... but it'll feel way harder than 5.9.

As for P3,... if you go into it thinking it's just a 5.7 you will get slaughtered. Nothing more to say there.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Higher Cathedral Spire : Regular Route (Higher Cathe... (5.9)
By: BFK When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Like previous people have alluded, there are 3 ways to go for P2. Supertopo only lists two ways, but if you go straight up from the top of P1 that is the third way not in the guide. It can be deceiving because it 'kinda' looks like a 5.9 finger crack in a corner,... but it's not. I went up it thinking it was 5.9 and was really surprised. The fingers section down low is probably 5.9 but pulling the roof felt more like 10b/c and you have to make some more delicate moves afterwards before you c... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Wine Wall : Route Whisperer (5.10b)
By: BFK When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: The Chains that were used are not stainless so they are rusted to all hell,... look like they came off the Titanic.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: BFK When: Jan 27, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for posting the beta. I was pretty excited to check this area out after seeing it on my first trip to Mt. St. Helena. Although I must say,... some the routes make Pinnacles seem bomber! Agree that the area probably won't sustain heavy traffic but I think the approach alone will prevent a full assault.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Table Manners (5.8)
By: BFK When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: I agree with fivefun. I was there Nov. 2012 and the right cold-shut is in serious need of replacement and would not recommend anyone use it to be lowered off (rap-off which should always be standard practice or traverse over to Rawhide chains).

The cold-shut is worn through at an angle and after reading a about a recent fatality in Switzerland due to a partially worn fixed draw that cut the climbers rope, I can see the potential for a similar situation.

(www.rockandice.com/news/230... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress
By: BFK When: Apr 2, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know what the sport route to the left of Arrow Place is? We did it and thought it was fun, just one hard move at the bottom which we thought maybe 10+, afterwards really fun 10- moves on the flake to reach the arete. Shares Anchors with P1 of Arrow Place.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : O Henry! (5.11c)
By: BFK When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Dido on the the moves above the last clip,...certainly thought provoking if you end up to the right of the anchors. Super fun route though, I thought the first sequence was the best part.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Sill : Swiss Arete (5.7)
By: BFK When: Aug 17, 2011

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Comments: Fun route but very inconsistent climbing. We did find that there are some nice short (10-15') finger crack sections near the top. This can easily be bypassed but they add some fun movement at 14,100'.

Also, make a careful inspection of any rap slings before you use them if rapping into the L-shaped couloir from the notch between Sill and Apex peak. We found some that looked new but we were able to literally pull them out of the boulders they were around with just a few tugs. Maybe this wa... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Spur : The Maze : Jigsaw Puzzle (V5)
By: BFK When: Jul 2, 2009

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Comments: I once heard from a guide who shall remain nameless that this was considered the 'Standard' for the grade of V5 back when it was first sent. Yikes! Certainly the hardest V5 I have yet to encounter in the park.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock & Sanborn-Skyli... : Summit Rock
By: BFK When: Jan 25, 2009

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Comments: Anyone know how long the bird closures usually last?