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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Scott and Joe - If this route gets renamed, I won't shed any tears, though I don't believe Huggins, Morrison, Hirt and Hague did the FA. Mason Frichette and Craig Lightburn climbed the route sometime in the mid-late 1970s. Frichette climbed all over Dec. Wall with various partners, and my research indicates they beat Huggins and company to this route and several others on the wall by several years. I had a long (several months, even stretching into a year) email exchange with Mason and Sco... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Devil's Backbone (5.11c) : Photo
By: Bernard Gillett When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another view of this route and its neighbors is now available in the main page for Mary's Bust; see topo for Mary's Bust, left buttress.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Photo
By: Bernard Gillett When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1-5. All of these are older Mark Ronca routes; location approximate. Most are gear protected (some run outs), with a few scattered bolts. I followed Mark up one of them on the FA (#3, I think) -- it's got a couple bolts at the bottom that helps to identify it. Mark's going to have to fill in the details; I'm including them here to preserve his lines from future developing. Given the history at Mary's Bust, some portions of these lines could have been done in an ear... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Stuck In Time (5.11)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guess we better rename the route: "No Longer Stuck In Time" (!). The stuck bit gave rise to the name of the route back in 1995: Douglas' drill ran out of juice just as the hole was nearing completion, and he couldn't back the bit out (as I recall, it was already binding in the hole a little due to a worn bit, and then it wouldn't come back out as the battery died). I think he may have returned at a later date with a recharged drill in an attempt to remove it, but the bit would not budge.
Ti... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : KeeMoSabe (5.9)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI: The big, quartz block (mentioned by Matt) was removed this evening. I led the route and felt the block flex as I moved past it. In the interest of safety, I had my partner crow bar the block off the wall; it wasn't that difficult to remove. Use caution through this section in the near future -- it was pretty dark by the time we pried the block off, and though we think we got all the loose stuff out of there, it's possible some weak holds remain.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : The Godfather (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually we have 5 kids now; our son was born in 2005. To answer your question: It's largely a function of my job. I don't have to work in the summer (and my 9-5 friends will tell you that I don't have to work during the school year, either). As it turns out, I've chosen to work a bunch these past few summers (another book--not a climbing guide), but I can do that work on my own schedule (e.g. after the kids have gone to bed). My lovely wife also contributes, as she gives me plent... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Just in Time (5.11b/c)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it's probable at least one more pitch could be added. Whoever put in the initial work on this route (in the early 1990s, I think) apparently intended to continue up the wall as there is one bolt visible from the belay up and left about 15 feet. I'll put it on my check-it-out list (though I may not get to it for a while as I've got designs on some other big routes first, and my summer is coming to an end).
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Devil's Backbone (5.11c) : Photo
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having done the route a few more times now, I think the first pitch crux slab is worthy of 5.11a. I changed it in the route description, but not in the above photo. The crux pitch of Sympathy for the Devil is clearly visible in this photo; it's the overhanging wall to the right of the arete at the top of the wall.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Sympathy for the Devil (5.12a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Retreating from midway up the crux pitch could be interesting (it may also be straightforward, but it looks like it has the potential to be spicy).
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Maternal Damnation (5.10)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a decent variation to the first pitch of this line that has been top roped. Climb to the first set of chains on Maternal Damnation to set up the TR. Start in the mine hole that sits below and right of the normal start, and maneuver out the obvious overhangs on huge jugs (5.7); begin right of the shot holes. The rock is of better quality than one might imagine (though it has been subjected to dynamite blasting, so be cautious). Continue more-or-less straight up a line of crys... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tim: As far as I know (I am not a lawyer), much of the raw information published in a guidebook (e.g. route names, FA info, and the like) is in the public domain, and I am not aware of any law that prohibits someone from publishing said information. On the other hand, the photos, topos, words used to describe a route (obviously not the words themselves, but rather the writing style and sentence structure), and things of that nature are the intellectual property of the author, protected by copy... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Proud Mary (5.12a/b)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Richard notes above, the third pitch has not yet gone free. A nice alternative if you want a free route to the summit: climb through the first several bolts on the 3rd pitch, passing a 5.10 slab crux. When it gets hard (it's pretty obvious), traverse straight right to the belay atop the 3rd pitch of The Brown Palace (also obvious: two bolts with shiny chains). It's an easy traverse (I did it on TR) that may feel a little better for the second with an additional bolt (which I have not yet... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Deceiver (5.9)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to avoid the difficult opening moves on this pitch, start on The Brown Palace and join this route half way up. It makes for a nice 5.7 or 5.8 lead.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Brown Palace (5.11a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll post a photo/topo when I get the chance, but you really don't need it. Once you complete the first pitch, just follow the bolts straight up the wall.
EDIT: I posted a photo on the main Mary's Bust page.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Tim - yes, I was waiting to post the one pitch route; thought it would be best to wait until I finished the entire route (however high it goes). But I had to finish this route first, and then I got sidetracked with another route. I'll post something soon, and will edit it later for additional pitches. EDIT: See Disneyland.
Pitons: nice find! I saw your other post; I pulled two pins out of the rock with my fingers on the actual route that might match the ones you fo... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a) : Photo
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt count and location, and crux locations on Violet Blue are approximate. I never drew up an accurate topo when I did the route. But this picture does the job of showing the relationship between the two lines.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Summer ascents: start early so that you are in the shade for the hard pitches. You'll see sunshine at the top of the wall pretty much all day.
Winter ascents: wait for the sun to come around to the west side. There may not be enough time to get to the top of the wall on the shortest days if you have to start in the afternoon.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route right of Violet Blue on the west face is open for business. Thanks for your patience. I'll post up a route description as soon as I can get to it.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : Crescent Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard this route referred to as The Scythe (Bill Briggs gave it that name when he did it several years ago; he had already done the technical lower portion of the route a number of years before that, though I'm not certain whether that was its first ascent).
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Nosebleed (5.11c)
By: Bernard Gillett When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried to top rope the crack right of the chains directly into the bulging hand crack (thus avoiding the nose flake), and found it rather difficult. It may go, though leading it this way would be challenging because the gear placements take up the only available holds.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: Bernard Gillett When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Jason/Richard/anyone else who has noticed the new route on the west face to the right of Violet Blue: that's Mark Ronca's route. He put in the bolts last year, and has attempted a redpoint a couple times, but hasn't been able to devote the time needed to give it his best shot. He and I have been hoping to team up and give it a serious go, but I've been drowning in work, and don't get to climb with Mark (or anyone, really) much. Last time we were up there (to do The Devil's Backbone), we t... more >>
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : I Promise Not To Cam In You... (5.10b)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that the area around the base of this climb and adjacent climbs has a fair amount of poison ivy. If you have my guidebook, you might make a note of the PI hazard in this area of December Wall for future reference. There's also a bush of ivy on this route at the base of the upper corner (you can see it in the photo) -- avoid it if you are allergic to ivy.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that the area around the base of this climb and adjacent climbs has a fair amount of poison ivy. If you have my guidebook, you might make a note of the PI hazard in this area of December Wall for future reference.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: Bernard Gillett When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, Allen, the photo was taken from across the river. If I can find some time, I'll draw the routes in, though I certainly don't mind if someone wants to take the initiative and grab my photo. I won't be able to get to it for a while.... No shot yet of the west buttress, though I intend to shoot it soon and add it to The Devil's Backbone page.
EDIT: Photo of Devil's Backbone alone added to that page. Still haven't crossed river for full west buttress photo.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Devil's Backbone (5.11c)
By: Bernard Gillett When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen: I don't believe the crack we did is the one mentioned in Sparky's, though I've never done that route so I'm not certain where it lies (I have been at its base, and know where it starts). If the crack mentioned in Sparky's comments is the same as the crack shown in your topo and labeled "5.10 X," then, no, it is not the same. Our crack pitch is on the left side of the wall that rests behind the main face of Mary's Bust. It's got good protection most of its length, with a spooky section... more >>
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