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near trapps, Shawangunks, NY, 2008


Member Since: Jan 7, 2007
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Total Points: 404
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 246 | Routes 31 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 111 | Stars 42 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012

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Comments: leader climbs the route and gets lowered to the station that is a little above midway on the wall. from there leader now belays second to top of route then lowers second to station where both can rap or be lowered to the ground safely. if the second prefers to lead the route, lower the initial leader twice, once to the midway station where the rope is pulled from top anchors and then rethreaded through midway station anchors so that the initial leader can be lowered or rap to the ground and th... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Modern Day Pirates (5.11a R) : Photo
By: bernard When: Feb 20, 2012

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Comments: in this photo, Modern Day Pirates follows features that roughly align with the large, panhandle flake kind of feature that is under the roof near the bottom of the cliff (not all the way right, into the dihedral). To its left is Flying Circus (.12+).....steep face climb more near the arete to the left in the frame than near MDP. And on the arete proper is Tech Noir (.12-)


Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 24, 2012

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Comments: route has an .11c extension that finishes more or less straight up from the main portion of the line. Original route trends right across top of Meathooks. Also bolts were added down low, diluting the burly style the route was originally climbed in.

'Wa' is apparently (or so we were told at the time) the Japanese word for wisdom.

Great route


Location: AL : Steele : Deborah (5.10d PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 24, 2012

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Comments: crux move is bolt-protected.....if you forgo and fall, you'll hit the ground

i'm not sure where the 'PG13' comes from.....the route is mixed and sews up where there is not fixed gear


Location: AL : Steele : Polar Express (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Dec 14, 2011

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Comments: Could the location instructions be any more vague???


Location: AL : Steele : Mean Lean (5.10b/c)
By: bernard When: Dec 14, 2011

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Comments: pretty cool movement on the upper.....forces you to balance and not just thug your way through


Location: AL : Steele : Deborah (5.10d PG13)
By: bernard When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: More like 10 feet right of Wrangler. Recognizable by the orange/yellow lichen stain on the rock in the area of bolt #1. Route is new and still a bit scruffy. Ring anchors at the top, right of the pulpit-like feature at the top of Wrangler, just below the top of cliff. Anchors serve both climbs. Unnamed 5.9 is 15 feet to the right.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: bernard When: Aug 23, 2011

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Comments: the name is from the name of a song by the band King Crimson


Location: AL : Steele : (un-named) 5.7 arete (5.7+)
By: bernard When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: Yes - pink tricam

but no......i mean, was Lyle using ring angle pitons.....? My guess is the FA belongs to Rich Gottlieb.....and that Lyle's is a variation that uses many left-side-of-the-arete features....but eventually converges on the same finish path. Both versions are good.


Location: AL : Steele : Cloudy Day (5.9)
By: bernard When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: Sounds like this is located concurrent with or very near an established route.....i think it had a couple of bolts on it just below a small ledge with a little pine tree on it....that ledge could be interpreted as constituting the top of a first pitch.....a horizontally creased headwall section began off the ledge and ended vaguely in the pine trees at the cliff top.....similar in feel and position as Sugar Magnolia. The route i'm describing begins just a few feet right of the Wendys/Golden Arch... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : The Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direc... (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 5, 2011

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Comments: i'd say that the difficulty range of the three separate finish options ranges from 5.8+ through 5.10. Some pleasing holds and movement


Location: AL : Steele : New Ideal (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Jan 5, 2011

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Comments: this photograph i think correctly shows the location and path of NI.....but it is incorrect in its portrayal of S. Animation in that this route, when it hits the upper roof feature, follows it further out to the right that is shown, following the ascending crack formed in the stone as its right edge turns upward

P.S.
Looks accurate


Location: AL : Steele : Golden Arch (5.10b)
By: bernard When: Jan 5, 2011

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Comments: (more current approach details)
from where the approach trail meets the cliff, walk left past Wolf Wall, through a jumble of boulders, past a section of tallish, slabby wall to a point where you can distinguish that a terrace trail ascends slightly up right to a short wall with a distinctive, right-facing dihedral and alternatively. Another path leads down left beside a shortish slabby wall. At the end of the slabby wall is a large, shallow cave feature with some large boulders in front of it.... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Rustler (5.10b)
By: bernard When: Jan 3, 2011

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Comments: The original trad route began off the opening ledges on small edges and underclings in the area under the black streaks. The route followed up and in the vicinity of the streaks and finished through the same weakness in the roof. It was done on small wires and old school cams and was rated 5.10b/c R maybe. We had to brush some of the holds in the area of the streaks due to the black mold and dust and what not. I'd rapped over it recently and noticed that to be resurrected, the holds would ne... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Scooter Girl (5.10a/b PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 1, 2011

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Comments: This is one of a quartet of climbs found on this particular section of the cliff. The discontinuous nature of the cliff detracts from the route's quality nonetheless, there is some nice movement and features, particularly on the upper section, that make it a worthy route. Due to the nature of the stone near the top of the cliff, anchors were placed to lower from. Always inspect the condition of fixed anchors before trusting your life to them.


Location: AL : Steele : Dance with the Devil (5.11b/c)
By: bernard When: Dec 30, 2010

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Comments: may have fixed gear that needs updating

tree in right edge of pic seems to be when the route is


Location: AL : Steele : The Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direc... (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Dec 22, 2010

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Comments: i've always known this one as Oak Tree (oddly, it ends at a well established pine tree). At the upper third of the route there are three separate finish possibilities. The route is most typically toproped due to the thin nature of the protection opportunities on this upper section.

Someone has fouled the beautiful top-out moves by placing fixed anchors.

Part of the Steele 'classic' series, you might say


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Aeolian Wall (Original Rout... (5.9 A3)
By: bernard When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: do you mean to say that old fixed hardware was replaced by new, and then the new was removed....leaving only the old remaining?


Location: AL : Seven Falls : seasons best (5.10b R)
By: bernard When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: Wedges???


Location: AL : Steele : Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge (5.10b/c)
By: bernard When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: And there are more routes potentially in this section.....To the right of this route.....also passing through Fu Manchu vine bundles and finishing on a similar headwall feature as its left next door neighbor. Its been TR'ed and will require 2-5 bolts not yet installed. Also a medium .10 and of similar quality.

...also on the left side of this route, but the ledge dividing the cliff is most prominent here, spoiling the aesthetic. Also the upper section here would be considerably harder than t... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : project on Wolf Wall (5.12)
By: bernard When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: i started bolting it and never finished. It is a mixed route, the middle section leading up to the big roof, has no natural protection. The bottom half or so is a crack. Yes, it is on SCC property as i understand it. The rating is a guess based on TR work done prior to beginning the fixed placements. Although the roof above is large, the orientation of the cliff with regard to plumb probably means no, it will not stay completely dry in rain. It is way taller than it is roofy


Location: AL : Steele : project on Wolf Wall (5.12)
By: bernard When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: i've commented elsewhere on this one. unfinished....also difficult to TR because of the big 'ol roof looming near the top.

The beginning is a small alcove or cave kind of thing that starts a full contact crack/stem/body slot/burly/ju jitsu exercise....leading to hand/finger crack....leading to face....leading to roof and moderate headwall finish


Location: AL : Steele
By: bernard When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: There are many routes on this portion of the cliff (left of Grahams Crack area all the way to the radio tower) that have never been documented. Most follow logical natural weaknesses that are visually appealing or invoke curiosity. Some are all naturally protected, some mixed, some sport, and some are unfinished projects where fixed protection has not fully been installed yet. There are also routes where you will find ring-angle pitons placed by those who came before.......These artifacts i h... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : unnamed trad on wolf wall (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: This route is not on the left side of the wall. It is more or less in the center and to the left of a big, overhanging, leaning handcrack that begins back in a cave-like feature.

This route begins under a little nook with one making a one or so bouldery move to a overhead wide handcrack that is difficult to gain. Its hard right from the start.

I did the first ascent of this using the roof finish variation that trends right through the roofs above the fixed wired nut because at the time a hug... more >>


Location: AL : Steele : Wolverine (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Sep 15, 2009

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Comments: hey i also did a pretty cool...maybe 5.8+ route to the right of this recently...within the last year. up some slab to overhanging portions to a thin, attractive finger crack to a stance, move into a big, broken up looking chimney/dihedral feature that you think will be yuck but is actually nicely solid and takes you to the top. Great exposure and views. Pretty classy although when at first glance you'd shake your head and walk on


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