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Location: AL : Steele : Stepping Out (5.7+)
By: bernard When: May 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another Steele classic
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Location: AL : Steele : Aura (5.12- PG13)
By: bernard When: May 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always thought there were 3 distinct routes on the face between Monopoly and Bird's Nest......the left of the three being Aura, which was 10+/11- and the two to the right being harder
And any hardware on this wall is probably 30 years old or so......and should be replaced BUT THAT DOESN"T MEAN GO ON A BOLTING SPREE. How about one-for-one replacement?
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Location: AL : Steele : Song of the Cows (5.11b)
By: bernard When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the tree mention in the route description....that provided an escape if failing the opening moves......has died/fallen over. Stick clip the first fixed anchor.
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Location: AL : Steele : Copout (5.9)
By: bernard When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route....another Steele classic. Long.....sling anchors on tree on the right side of the crack as you top out. You can also build an anchor in various places along the top.
The piton-protected slab mentioned in the description is actually a variation where the climber would stay on the face entirely....and this variation is probably PG13/R. The original route follows the crack system.
Can range from prohibitively wet to just damp/mushy at the bottom, depending on season. This is ... more >>
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Location: AL : Steele : Graham's Crack (5.7+)
By: bernard When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: try the route using crack only/jams only .....for an extra level of challenge
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Location: AL : Steele : Sugar Magnolia (5.8)
By: bernard When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sugar Mag has its own, distinctive 1st and 2nd pitch......so it is confusing to read the submitter's description of starting this route by using the 1st pitch of Golden Arches. And the description of the opening moves doesn't comport with what i know to be the start of the 1st pitch of SM. Also, the route does not diagonal over to Monoply's anchors but instead continues vertically up the long face to the tree line. And the cliff section to the right of Monopoly is complex enough that i don't ... more >>
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Location: AL : Steele : Meathooks (5.13a)
By: bernard When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original name of this route is Meathooks and Memory
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Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally the route had no bolts. A knifeblade was placed down low......near the first bolt (that was retro-placed many years later to augment it). You had to hitch a sling to the knifeblade because it wasn't driven into the rock all the way to the eye. Below the knifeblade and first bolt you can place a funky, sideways nut....or maybe get a cable-stemmed cam. The route pre-dates cabled cams. You basically did not want to fall until near halfway up the route where there are some solid plac... more >>
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Location: AL : Steele : Ginsu (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lowering anchors added to Ginsu and to Full Moon.
One of the crag's nicer climbs at this grade
Upper 30-35 feet are trad - either the easily identified finger/handcrack......or the spicier pockets and slopers version to its left (anchors are over this finish but reachable by either).
Light to medium rack: small to med wires, cams 1/2-inch to 2 1/2-inch
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Location: AL : Steele : Ginsu (5.11a)
By: bernard When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tall....airy....scenic. The elevation of the ginsu feature (~12 foot serrated edge flake/column) corresponds to a fractured and weakly-cemented sandstone layer that runs through the cliff at this height.....so climb discretely here
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Location: AL : Steele : Unnamed area below and left... (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: this wall is immediately to the right of the cave feature that has the routes Evil Is and Jolly Roger
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Location: AL : Griffin Falls : Wisteria (5.7)
By: bernard When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: there are maybe three distinct and similar routes in this zone
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Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the route name is the name of a novel by Thomas Pynchon....and also there is a forest of grapevines midway on the route you have to tip-toe through
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Location: AL : Steele : Dead Reckoning (5.10c)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route existed for a very long time as a high quality trad route. don't know who added the fixed gear but in my opinion it should be removed and rededicated to another project
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Location: AL : Steele : Vineland (5.9+)
By: bernard When: Feb 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: leader climbs the route and gets lowered to the station that is a little above midway on the wall. from there leader now belays second to top of route then lowers second to station where both can rap or be lowered to the ground safely. if the second prefers to lead the route, lower the initial leader twice, once to the midway station where the rope is pulled from top anchors and then rethreaded through midway station anchors so that the initial leader can be lowered or rap to the ground and th... more >>
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Location: AL : Steele : Modern Day Pirates (5.11a R) : Photo
By: bernard When: Feb 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: in this photo, Modern Day Pirates follows features that roughly align with the large, panhandle flake kind of feature that is under the roof near the bottom of the cliff (not all the way right, into the dihedral). To its left is Flying Circus (.12+).....steep face climb more near the arete to the left in the frame than near MDP. And on the arete proper is Tech Noir (.12-)
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Location: AL : Steele : Rockwa (5.10+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: route has an .11c extension that finishes more or less straight up from the main portion of the line. Original route trends right across top of Meathooks. Also bolts were added down low, diluting the burly style the route was originally climbed in.
'Wa' is apparently (or so we were told at the time) the Japanese word for wisdom.
Great route
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Location: AL : Steele : Deborah (5.10d PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: crux move is bolt-protected.....if you forgo and fall, you'll hit the ground
i'm not sure where the 'PG13' comes from.....the route is mixed and sews up where there is not fixed gear
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Location: AL : Steele : Polar Express (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Dec 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could the location instructions be any more vague???
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Location: AL : Steele : Mean Lean (5.10b/c)
By: bernard When: Dec 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: pretty cool movement on the upper.....forces you to balance and not just thug your way through
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Location: AL : Steele : Deborah (5.10d PG13)
By: bernard When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: More like 10 feet right of Wrangler. Recognizable by the orange/yellow lichen stain on the rock in the area of bolt #1. Route is new and still a bit scruffy. Ring anchors at the top, right of the pulpit-like feature at the top of Wrangler, just below the top of cliff. Anchors serve both climbs. Unnamed 5.9 is 15 feet to the right.
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: bernard When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: the name is from the name of a song by the band King Crimson
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Location: AL : Steele : (un-named) 5.7 arete (5.7+)
By: bernard When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes - pink tricam
but no......i mean, was Lyle using ring angle pitons.....? My guess is the FA belongs to Rich Gottlieb.....and that Lyle's is a variation that uses many left-side-of-the-arete features....but eventually converges on the same finish path. Both versions are good.
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Location: AL : Steele : Cloudy Day (5.9)
By: bernard When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like this is located concurrent with or very near an established route.....i think it had a couple of bolts on it just below a small ledge with a little pine tree on it....that ledge could be interpreted as constituting the top of a first pitch.....a horizontally creased headwall section began off the ledge and ended vaguely in the pine trees at the cliff top.....similar in feel and position as Sugar Magnolia. The route i'm describing begins just a few feet right of the Wendys/Golden Arch... more >>
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Location: AL : Steele : The Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direc... (5.9+ PG13)
By: bernard When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'd say that the difficulty range of the three separate finish options ranges from 5.8+ through 5.10. Some pleasing holds and movement
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