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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Ellery Bowl : The Speed of Life (5.11b)
By: BenL When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: AWESOME!!!
sooo classic. I agree that the 11b is normal for the grade.
The second pitch is one of the best pitches I've ever done.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Monster Skank (5.13b)
By: BenL When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the above, this climb is worldclass. If you ever work a 13b, let it be this one.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: BenL When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it took us 2+1/2 days. We was our first bigwall and the 2. time we climbed together. I led everything while he hauled and cleaned.
I freed everything up to 5.10. Above I aided, which I hadn't done before often.
We fixed up to sickle. If you start counting on the ground 3 days are really relistic.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Yaak Crack (5.11d)
By: BenL When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Spring Break (5.11+)
By: BenL When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this climb is 11d on lead, because you can't really rush trough it. The pro is very solid, but strenuous to place, no doubt.
Having a good endurance and taking his time with pro is KEY.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: BenL When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: alien are definitely useful, as well as TCU's. Anything small will do though. If it's hot, and you're no good at pure crack climbing, then the final pitch is going to be the crux, it is in the sun when you get there unless you're super fast and have an early start.
Every pitch is awesome, but the crux pitch and the one after it stand out.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Agent Orange (5.12b)
By: BenL When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is a sport climb. you don't need any gear.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: BenL When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11 R)
By: BenL When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't call P5 R, the gear is thin but pretty good, bring aliens.
The climb is awesome. All pitches might not be 4 stars out of 4 but the location is just perfect, an pitches 1,2,4,5 are consistently amazing! Pitch 2 has some funky fixed gear.
get on it, really good outing when you're back from a bigwall and you aren't up for more hauling and want be on the big stone.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Cookie Monster (5.13b)
By: BenL When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: with all the bolts, I think the 1. pitch is on the really soft side of the grade. If this lieback is 12a, then Moratorium too felt like 12a for me, I guess 11c is more appropriate...
excellent sportclimb though!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Butterballs (5.11c)
By: BenL When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Secret 13 Wall : Project (5.13)
By: BenL When: Jan 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: is this an open project?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Patracide (5.11a)
By: BenL When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'd say that it's actually pretty good. not worth going there as an end in itself, but if you go there for FF you might as well finish your day on this one, if you didn't warm up on it.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires : Lower Cathedral Spire : South by Southwest (5.11a)
By: BenL When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess this is more like 5.10.(edit:5.10c. 10 b would be a sandbag.)
Compared to Moratorium or the 5.11 pitches in the Nose the crux-pitch is pretty easy.
Fun climb though, and awesome view of El Cap on the summit , take your camera.
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Location: International : Germany : Hainstadt
By: BenL When: Jul 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: there is tons of good sandstone in germany...
-elbsandstein (mostly trad)
-pfalz(sport/bouldering/trad)
are the best.
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Location: International : Italy : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower : Messner (5.10a)
By: BenL When: Apr 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is a mega classic on some of the best rock you'll ever find in the area. 4 stars!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: BenL When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: a great route. I enjoyed the approach a lot 'cause it's fun jumping trough the river bad. You can easily skip the last part of the creek by walkong up rightwards slabs to a boulder and then scramble up an arete and walk down (40m) to the start. You absolutely NEED small wires for the third 5.8 pitch unless you are suicidal. Holds can break here!!
We rappeled after the 6. pitch, every pitch was fun...
We rapped with a seventy meter rope, and it was ok.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Great Red Roof Area
By: BenL When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: has been freed by T Moulin at .13b
Congrats!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sonic Youth Cliff : Sonic Youth (5.11b/c)
By: BenL When: Mar 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: it's .11d in the handren guide
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Location: International : Italy : Dolomites : First Sella Tower : Tissi Route (5.10a)
By: BenL When: Mar 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: j beyer soloed it. polished and short. only interesting in case the weather is bad.
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Location: International : Italy : Dolomites : First Sella Tower : Trenker (5.7)
By: BenL When: Mar 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's true. my first dolomites route. the first ascent leader was as famous movie-maker.
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Location: International : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes : Big Micheluzzi (5.10a)
By: BenL When: Mar 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent classic until you come to the big ledge, go down here (easy, head left) unless you like steep choss. Historical traverse in the middle, stay low enough...
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