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old 1/4" bolt.


Member Since: Jan 28, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Benjamin Chapman


Point Rank: # 30
Total Points: 8,902
Last Year: 2,633
Last 30 Days: 142
74 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (3730) | Routes (309) | Areas (63) | Photos (610) | Comments (1816) | Posts (212) | Stars (525) | Ratings (195)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor : Agua Negro (5.8)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Cleaned a loose gallon milk jug-sized block from just below the P2 anchor and a second 8 in. diameter cobble from the right side of trough, just above the P2 bolt. Scary how those cobbles loosen up and lay perched over the crowds in the Corridor.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: An amazing shot, Jeoff.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Egg : Egg-zillaration (5.11a)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet........where is the "trad" label?


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Planned Obsolescence (5.9)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Very challenging for a 5.9. The bolts maybe too far right, but the rock is excellent and the movement fun.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Spring Crag : Stripped Nut (5.11a) : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Nice photo, Isaac. This is a nice perspective of Spring Crag, but doesn't show the climbs well.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Beautiful shot, Dave.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Wall : The Wall - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Nice perspective, Jeremy.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor : Middle Earth (5.9)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: BAd.....you got it right, "Middle Earth" on the left and "Pocket Change" on the right.
You're right on regarding the beta as well. When in doubt, especially at each of the large inclusions or blocks, go left.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Wow...how did Louie miss this one? A great line with exciting and varied movement.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b) : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: That's an intriguing fracture line, in back of the hold, just right of Hayley's right hand.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The First Corridor : Pocket Change (5.8+)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: The route is not bolted like a typical sport route. There is wide spacing between some bolts. If you check many of the face climbs at Suicide Rock or Joshua Tree they are listed as trad routes, due to bolt spacing. No gear other than quickdraws is necessary.
Ten bolts in 140 feet, you do the math.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Virgin (5.10b)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Hey Chris....time for an FA update. Per Keith Leaman's comments on his photo...
FA: Lee Harrell (1967)
FFA: Paul & Phil Gleason and Keith Leaman (1967)


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Giant Step (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Yeah. Great historical photo, Keith.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : The Diner : ... : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: It's possible to protect the crack with nuts and/or cams, but the rock quality inside the crack is pretty sketchy.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Mormon Rocks : Mormon Slab : The Polygamist (5.8) : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: That water groove resembles "The Trough" at Big Rock, from this angle, except for the numerous large cobbles.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Spring Crag : Loose Nut (5.10a)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: FA: Tom Gilje, Sam Owings, Jay Coughlin, Steve Edwards, and Jack Marshall (according to Troy Mahr).
ps......the rating is 5.11a according to the Williamson Rock guide (Troy Mahr & Anthony Sweeney).


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Texas Canyon : Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wal... : Tethys (5.7)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: Done as a single pitch, "Tethys," is excellent. Carry 11 quick draws and clip one of the rings at the P1 anchor, move left, from the blunt arete to the knob strewn upper face. Clip four more bolts on P2, to the chain anchor. P1 - 6 quick draws and a 7th for the ring. P2 - 4 quick draws. 185 feet of fun and knobs.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Joe Brown and Half Dome Are... : Half Dome Boulder : Tissiack (5.9 V0 PG13)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Used to run laps on this in my tennis shoes. Actually the base has eroded away over the years, but the landing has gotten better.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Joe Brown and Half Dome Are... : Half Dome Boulder : Direct Northwast Face (aka ... (5.8+ V0 PG13)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The bottom may be grainy, but once you brush off your shoes the locks are bomber and the face on either side of the crack provides awesome friction.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Joe Brown and Half Dome Are... : Pink Boulder : Black Gnat (V3)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't call them dishes as much as shallow depressions that require palming friction. Once you balance up on the thin flakes at the bottom, the pull over the top is powerful and fun. Anything but desperate and the landing isn't bad. We run laps on this WITHOUT a pad.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: An amazing historical photo, Keith. Thanks!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Mount San Antonio/ Mt. Bald... : Devil's Backbone (Mod. Snow)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Great work, Nick. Much better than the other route descriptions posted for the Mt. San Antonio area.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Mount San Antonio/ Mt. Bald... : Devil's Backbone (Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: Well done, Nick. Much better than the other descriptions posted in the Mt. San Antonio area.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Test Site : Intellitoys (5.9)
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 18, 2014

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Comments: Eren.....you do realize you're talking about a climb located in the Santa Monica Mtns? EVERYTHING is chossy. John Long calls the rock vertical mud, for good reason. Intellitoys was featured in Climbing Magazine as the best new sport route of 2010, when it was established. No offense, but your comment regarding the "chossy" nature of the rock is not a news flash.
If it's opinions you want check out the 28 votes prior to yours. ****


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Island Area : Tombstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Benjamin Chapman When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Oh, contrary, those crimps and edges on the west face of the Six-Ton Weenie maybe sharp, but they are amazing.


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