Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: Ben Schmitt When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha ha, alright, it's updated. Wouldn't it have been better if I told you that you had to wait for the names and ratings to be posted until my book came out next spring??? I'm actually most of the way through a book for Elevenmile, so I'll try to get that going here soon....
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: Ben Schmitt When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is pretty outdated....I'll try to get a better one up here in the near future....
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Example (5.13a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The good thing about this route is that a lot of people like it. I was just offering my 2 cents about it, becuase when I'm looking at routes it's nice to know what a lot of people think. I probably am just not tough enough to pull on those pockets! I mean, it's not like I've climbed at Shelf very much anyway, so I just need to get used to it, right? Sorry I hurt your feelings Example, but I mean you've REALLY hurt those 5.14 climbers egos, too:( I just think some of your other friends are a l... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anybody know what the name of the offwidth roof crack is that is between Captain Fist and the Meanie Cracks. It starts in the back of the cave behind Captain Fist, and does full on offwidth climbing to finish at Captain Fist's anchors?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : The Microfridge (5.12-)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris! Thanks for posting your new addition! I'm psyched to see your interested in putting new stuff in Elevenmile! I'm even more psyched your willing to post the names and grades of your routes!!!!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Outre Salvo (5.14a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darryl, I appreciate the positive comments, and also the incredible amount of work you and Dan put into making hard routes for my generation in the pikes peak region. I think that sometimes people overlook how much effort it is to create new things, and hopefully more visionary new climbers from The Springs can help take it to the next level....
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : The Dark Arts (5.13d)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, apparently the flake you guys used to use back in the day to gaston to is broken, because now you have to do this crazy throw to the little bit thats left of the flake. Half the people who have done this recently think the thing is 14a, while the others think it's 13d. I think it all comes down to a height issue. Thanks for the info.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Only Entertainment (5.13b)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No matter how long a project has sat idle, I do agree that it is the polite thing to do to ask to climb on it before just stealing it. I know how hard it is to find, clean, and bolt stuff, and even though I personaly have never closed any of the things I've bolted, I do completly respect those people who do....
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bohj,
I'm glad to hear your psyched on the routes, It was the vandals that stole the hardware back in the day, but I will happily replace them so there is more rock to climb! I also bolted a new line on the left side of the wall, which is probably a V10 with bolts, an open project for whoever wants it.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock : The CHCA (5.11a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the grade comments, would you guys mind posting what you thought the grades were on each route so that we can get a concensus? After doing them recently I am starting to agree with you....
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're down for chossy rock but a great view, I would say check it out. However, I don't think it's the best place to climb. I always try to trick myself into thinking the rock will get better to bolt, but am always disappointed....
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Outre Salvo (5.14a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Stewart! I really appriciate you and Ian letting me do this thing, you guys have put alot of great work into elevenmile, I'm so psyched about the number of new quality routes going up!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rednecks probably shot the mirror off the cairn, I'll try to make a sighn in the next couple weeks to put a couple feet from the road. The CHCA has key beta that makes it closer to 11a, involving a heel hook and some clever backstepping. No sandbagging was intended....
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Kurt,
Well now that you know where Ed Rock is, Williams Canyon was where you were in your previous post....
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Manly Bulges (5.13c/d)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After trying this a couple of times, this has to be 13d. Both boulder problems are sharp, hard, and strenuous. It takes a path of nice rock up the wall, but the primal commitment to pain on this route might make it difficult to project continually for climbers of this grade. In my opinion, Triage (great black north) is a couple steps easier....
Incredible send, Ryan!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha ha, I definitely spelled it wrong. Thanks for spell checking for me Mike. I'm an engineer, so spelling is not my strength....
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Spray (5.13b/c)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha ha, somehow these posts always turn into ethics discussions, I shouldn't fuel the fire Hank. Sometimes these things get a bit out of hand, but your right Lee I don't think I could. It just bums me out becuase some of those draws were ones I had given Micah, and this is the second time this has happened. This area is the only really steep thing around for a while, so I tried to kind of adopt it and be a good steward, but cest la vie.... Anyhow the college thing is up and running! My friend... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : The Dark Arts (5.13d)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Notable figures in the climbing world who have done this route are suggesting this route may be 5.14a with the hold glued on, so who knows what the grade is now??? If anyone has been on this thing, please post a grade, it would nice to get a feel for what this really is....
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Spray (5.13b/c)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Micah's is not the only instance of draws beeing stolen off this climb, we were fixing draws to make it convenient for climbers to do these fun routes and not have to clean gear. As always feel free to use gear that has been fixed, but it is absolutly and completly UNACCEPTABLE to steal fixed gear ANYWHERE! God help the soul who steals fixed draws if our paths ever cross...
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock : The CHCA (5.11a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're right, Common Misconception is the one to the right. More straightforward, but harder moves I thought! Maybe your just strong??:) Thanks for the input. My friends and I put up a couple of contrived linkups if your interested....
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ed Rock : The CHCA (5.11a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the grey sreak is to the right, and this one follows the middle line up the wall, just right of the small cave. There is a bolt stud sticking out at the bottom of this route, If that helps. I need to write the names and grades of these things at the bottom of the cliff....
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Precious Stone (5.12b)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with you, this thing is pretty hard for the grade due to non existant feet and long pulls between pockets. 12b at least!
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Da Fly (5.13a)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of January 17th, I climbed this route in its current state after a couple of people told me key holds broke off in the lower crux. I did this move off a terrible sloper with a big dyno to an edge which was the full extent of my reach (6'). Maybe 13c for shorter people? I felt 13b, but if anybody's been on this within the past two months I would like to hear what you think....
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ruxton Canyon, Manitou Spri...
By: Ben Schmitt When: Dec 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the left overhanging route that starts in the southwest side of the bridge, Brian Rhodes bolted new metolius holds and new hangers up the overhang, and there is actually a picture used for a few metolius adds thats on keith ladzinskis website. Everything on that route is really safe, and it goes at 5.12c
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Table Mountain South
By: Ben Schmitt When: Dec 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: About four years ago, we had talked to Castle Concrete about climbing at this area and what access would entail, and they said that it would be fine to climb there for an annual fee of 145 dollars total to cover insurance cost for letting us climb there, as long as a recognized organization signed the agreement for Castle Concrete's insurance purposes. My family agreed to pay the annual fee as a contribution back into the community, but when we approached the Access Fund, they essentialy shut t... more >>
|
RSS Feed
