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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Ben Folsom When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I posted this route here like 8 or 9 years ago. A lot has changed on it since then, and at that point a whole ton had changed since the FA. Why doesn't somebody who has recently climbed this thing offer a better and more accurate, up to date description and rating.
Thanks, Ben
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice route, thanks guys. We climbed it in one pitch as well.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's not just climbers, even manly football players do it.
| Photo Daily Utah Chronicle
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 21, 2009
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Emerald Pools : Cracking the Emerald (5.10 C1+)
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, sounds/looks like a fantastic route. Nice work!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a strong possibility. I was on the Needles overlook road, and this may be a bit South of Lockhart Basin, and maybe East. Anyway, it is in that general vicinity. Can't remember exactly where I was though.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That cracked me up James...
I have a bunch of old bongs I used to use in the Fishers too. I'm thinking of making them into a wind chime.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Beaked Whale (5.11-) : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We didn't exactly jump on them, but Lance chimney'd through and was fully pushing on the beak. I had a pack on and couldn't fit through and basically liebacked on it. It didn't break...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! don't take it so hard, I was only giving you some shit.
I felt the need to defend this quality route. "This route sucks" doesn't make any sense.
Long and varied climbing on good rock with good gear in a beautiful setting. Seems like it would be hard not to enjoy.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Ben Folsom When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What are you talking about Cheesy Nacho?? You must have gotten bouted up there.
This is one of the classic routes for the grade in the Wasatch!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Ben Folsom When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe if the arrows are cleaned properly (without much downward hammering), some decent small nut placements could result. Just an idea, I can't remember those pins or the crack they are in, so it may not work, but maybe worth a shot.
Better a decent small nut placement than a pin or a bolt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall
By: Ben Folsom When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't climbed at this wall, but saw it a few times on descents from other things. It looked good, and obviously the developers put in a huge amount of time, money and effort equipping this good quality wall with some easy-moderate climbs that are safe for people to enjoy. The chopping of these routes is a huge bummer and definitely an act of robbery. Very sad.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : The Woogie (5.10c)
By: Ben Folsom When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: would be good except for climbing over a huge, mandatory death block just below the chains. Seems like that thing should be pried off before it kills somebody.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Columbian Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess I'm a 5.7 leader, so I clipped it, for the scary slab above.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : The Revelation (5.11b/c PG13)
By: Ben Folsom When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took a couple falls on that bolt figuring out the move a few weeks ago. I'm sure it's okay, but I was pretty relieved each time it caught. A very worthy candidate for replacement IMO. It looks like it would be easy to pull and redrill the same hole. This one should definitely be on the list. It's a great variation with a big move.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Invocation (5.10d)
By: Ben Folsom When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the original line on this section of wall. The Dirge and The Revelation went in afterward. All are good variations to a central theme though.
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Location: Tristan Higbee : Misc Pics : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the Voodoo Hoodoo.
two routes. one from the side closer to the wall. FA Jimmy Dunn & ?
The other route starts on the trail side, lookers left and then steps right into a crack system to a bolt protecting the crux below the top. That route was done by me & Jimmy Dunn, established ground up. 5.10+?? can't remember, was a while ago.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Melting Mud West : ... : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Marco!! Good to see a shot of MR. O......
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Cymbals Of The Sun (5.11+)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stout, demanding, sustained... Hard route, don't expect mercy on any pitch. Great face and slab climbing on mostly excellent rock. I as well am quite rattled from my attempt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Narcolepsy (5.8 R)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is an interesting lead as it is. Some knowledge of climbing history and how routes are established is an important part of climbing. That route was originally established on the lead without bolts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Dreamscape (5.9+)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt placements are excellent and the route is perfectly protected.
Take Brian's comment and learn from it, because it is very well put!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Goldenfingers Wall : Fool's Gold (5.9+ PG13)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, trickier than expected climbing on the little headwall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Standard Ridge : Standard Ridge (5.6)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really nice ridge climb. I thought the rock was generally excellent! We pretty much were able to avoid any loose rock, in fact this route has WAY better rock and seemed WAY safer than the Outside Corner on JHCOB wall.
Maura and I climbed this route in 6 pitches (no simul-climbing). We were using a 70 meter rope. There was also a bit of unroped scrambling near the end of the ridge. We were also able to do some climbing on the Rush Wall, about halfway up the ridge, which was a nic... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Grayo : Grayo (5.8 PG13)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I remember correctly, the route between the wings wasn't really gritty at all, I remember thinking it was really good.
The thing on the short, steep, backside of Grayo is a mystery... I have no idea what it is. (You are talking about the East facing thing just around the corner right?)
I will try to post a picture here of the wings and the unknown bolt & piton route. The bolt is down low near the start of that unknown line. There is a piton about 1/2 way up.
| 1. Route in between the large wing aretes.
2. Unknown bolt route.
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Jul 6, 2009
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#1 ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is always a committing and tricky move right there.
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Location: UT : Photo
By: Ben Folsom When: Jul 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It reminds me of Lehi's dream... It is a "great and spacious building". I am not Mormon, but if you look at the building architecturally, it is actually a pretty amazing building. Also in terms of symbolism and metaphor for the people of the Mormon faith, it is a very important structure. No need to bash any particular group of people here. In this day and age haven't we figured out that most people are exactly the same and just trying to get through life the best we can?? Hate against any ... more >>
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