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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Deep Freeze (WI5-6 M5 R)
By: Ben Collett When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct gully start on this is very much worth doing. When dry, it offers fun dry tooling winding around a couple of chockstones and turns the route into more of a full day.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Tan Buttress's : Goat Food (5.11-)
By: Ben Collett When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a small cairn below the start of the route.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Wham Couloir (M4 Easy Snow)
By: Ben Collett When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the left hand start today. It was pretty fun, about M4. We left a couple of anchors so now one can descend the couloir by downclimbing and rapping the climb.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Monkey See, Monkey Do (5.12b)
By: Ben Collett When: Sep 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is fun. The upper roof is really fun. However, to me, it felt kind of hard for Clear Creek 12b. It definitely felt harder than Ken T'ank, The Great Excape and Big Dog. The traverse really feels way easier than what lies before it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : North Gully (M4 Steep Snow)
By: Ben Collett When: May 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was still in pretty decent condition yesterday. There was actually a fair amount of ice. A screw or two could well have been placed.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons
By: Ben Collett When: Jan 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Silk Road is in really good condition right now. Get on it soon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Naked Lunch (5.11d)
By: Ben Collett When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the top of the 4th pitch, a single rope rap (with a 60) will get you to the top of the 1st pitch of Rock Odyssey. And, by the way, this is a fun climb deserving more traffic than it gets.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R)
By: Ben Collett When: Oct 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was up there yesterday afternoon and the ice below the traverse has fallen off. Additionally, Field's is thinner than it was a week ago.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Kama Sutra (5.10b)
By: Ben Collett When: Sep 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems that there is a 3rd variant. Realizing that my rack would not afford me any protection in the wide section, I traversed right past a lone bolt just below it and up a crack on the right. It was quite fun, well protected and not too dirty.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Haystack Mountain : Minor Dihedral (5.9)
By: Ben Collett When: Sep 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original start is actually not such bad climbing. I thought it was worth doing, if only for the sake of making the route feel a bit longer. Sometimes longer is better.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : A.C.E. (5.12a)
By: Ben Collett When: Aug 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried cleaning this on the lower today, and it worked absolutely fine, so don't let Tony's comment deter you. One trick to rope drag reduction on this pitch is to back clean the first draw after the final overlap.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9)
By: Ben Collett When: May 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to confirm what others have said: This route is really good. I thought it was better than the South Face. One can end the crux pitch at the Pizza Pan belay fairly easily with a 50 meter rope, linking what Tony has described as pitches 6 and 7. Getting to Sky Pond right now is not too difficult. There is a pretty well packed trail where there is snow.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Northwest Buttress of Powel... (M6)
By: Ben Collett When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Randy,
To answer your questions, it is new school in that there is no actual ice climbing and it ends before the summit (I meant the term to be taken pejoratively). I posted it so that someone would go and repeat it, hopefully trundling the flake. We also felt that if Broken Axes was a route, then this certainly was. You should go an give it a try. As long as there is snow around, it'll be in. The climbing is fun.
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Location: Mountain Project Bouldering...
By: Ben Collett When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First time playing the game. I think maybe speed of the keystrokes matters.
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Location: Mountain Project Bouldering...
By: Ben Collett When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 13 Tries
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Casual Route (5.8)
By: Ben Collett When: Apr 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the best of the really easy Black Canyon climbs. The climbing is much better and more continuous than Maiden Voyage or the Leisure Route, and you don't have to climb any pegmatite.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Porcelain Arete (5.9+)
By: Ben Collett When: Apr 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is longer and more involved than the Tourist Route or the Russian Arete. It is also a lot more bushy. It makes for rather a satisfying day though. Just be aware that once you climb the last of the three bushy corners, you still have a lot of climbing to do.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Chairman of the Board (5.11+)
By: Ben Collett When: Apr 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what it's worth, I found this considerably harder than Freefall. But I guess that only goes to show that I have crappy footwork, or something. I do agree with the above comments about the quality though. The rock is some of the more interesting rock found in Boulder Canyon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : Round Pebble (V4)
By: Ben Collett When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem starts with an obvious undercling that leads to a large sidepull. A direct start exists that goes from opposing sidepulls in the two seams on either side of the first edge of the problem. The direct start is hard to get off the ground on, but provides the more "flow" to the problem. Some people call the direct start v6.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Three of a Kind Wall : The Face (V3)
By: Ben Collett When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best problems at Flag. Do it from a sit start for a crimpy V5.
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