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Member Since: Jan 25, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Ben Townsend
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Total Points: 637
Last Year: 348
Last 30 Days: 17
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Townsend been climbing?










Contributions


All 405 | Routes 48 | Areas 4 | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 94 | Posts 2 | Stars 255 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 00 - Hoover Wilderness : North Peak : Northwest Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Ben Townsend When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Exposed but fairly easy, except for climbing out of the biggest gap. We roped up for this, but it turned out to be about 20' of Sierra 4th class -- intimidating from below, but solid as soon as you commit to it. Phenomenal summit views.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Mariuolumne Dome : ... : Finders Keepers (5.6 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: A bit nervy getting to the first bolt, but great after that. Quite a long pitch, even from the top of the third-class ledges.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Penny Royal Arches : Penny Lane (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb. On the second pitch, I inadvertently went up around the roof on the right, then did an unprotected face traverse to the belay -- not recommended. Go left under the roof until the crack appears. The third pitch will keep your full attention -- it's possible to get some small to medium cams in horizontals between the bolts.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Penny Royal Arches : Penny Dreadful (5.10a)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: The rappels below the tree are both 60m rope-stretchers.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : North Buttress of Cathedral : Double Down (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: Nice climbing, with bolts nearby at the hard bits. Careful rappelling with a single 70 -- it gets you to reasonable downclimbing, not necessarily to the ground.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : North Buttress of Cathedral : Hops'n'Barley (5.6 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: A beautiful climb, probably on the easier end of 5.7. The second pitch is safely bolted, but definitely thoughtful. It's possible to get a couple of small but solid pieces both before the first bolt and up higher.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Range : North Buttress of Cathedral : Garden Party (5.5 PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: This might be the best intro gear lead in Tuolumne. Fun easy climbing, cool line, gear pretty much whenever you want. The cleanest rap line is climber's left, and don't forget to get the knot down over the edge.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Knob Lock : JW (WI3+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: Even if the ice doesn't reach entirely to the bottom, judicious use of the cedar tree on the right can get you up onto the slab without too much trouble.


Location: ME : Camden Hills : Barretts Cove Cliff : Witchy Woman (5.5)
By: Ben Townsend When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: The line shown for this climb in the book Rock Climbing New England is a long way to the left of the actual route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Lots of water flowing in the Gunsight descent as of mid-April.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Cat Scratch Fever (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: High quality climb, airy and exposed. The second pitch crux stays steep for longer than you might expect from a typical 5.8, but once you get to the left crack it is pure fun all the way to the nice belay ledge.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: We did pretty much what Dan describes above, except we never found the bolts. Instead, we used the fixed rope as a "safety" (with a prusik -- we didn't weight it, and when we saw the anchor we were glad we didn't) to climb up to the next ledge system west, then downclimbed and slithered through scrub oak to a short rap off a rock horn and then a 35m rap off a tree into the wash. This descent seemed unduly time-consuming and stressful; another time, I'd probably reverse Cat in the Hat.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Soupy Sales (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Maybe 5.4, if that. Unlimited protection options.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Fontanar de Rojo (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: More like 5.7 than 5.8. Above the varnished corner, we climbed up the face right of the bush, then traversed left into the exit crack; this section was probably the crux, and involved some creative gear placements.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Ruta de Roja (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Fun and well protected, more like 5.6 than 5.7. We traversed into the right crack a bit higher, at a diagonal seam, rather than stepping right at the initial ledge. 180' is about right if you do all the climbing, though one could stop at about 150' and then scramble up a loose gully on the right.


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: At 6'4", I can stand on tiptoe after clipping the bolt and grab the jug above the crux. Feels like 5.7 for me.

I know this isn't actually useful beta for most people. On the other hand, a dyno might be.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Mudterm Area : Goods Are Odd (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Lots of fragile rock on this one. The descent gully is not for the faint of heart.


Location: ME : Tumbledown Mountain : Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) (WI2 M1)
By: Ben Townsend When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Neat route in a five-star location. Light rock rack to 1.5" is helpful. In this low-snow winter, we were able to drive to the trailhead in a Subaru Outback, but I am definitely not recommending that -- clearly the crux of the day!

We did a 200+' first pitch to a stance with a good rock anchor, then a short scratchy but easy pitch to the top. Rapping down the Chimney off the old rungs puts you very close to the start.

For those who have been up the approach in the summer: when covered with verg... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : Horseshoe Gully (WI2-)
By: Ben Townsend When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: A couple of fun ice bulges in the right conditions, but the bushwhack-to-climb ratio is pretty lopsided.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : The Pilgrimage (WI3)
By: Ben Townsend When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: Nice route if the snow conditions on the approach aren't too grueling. It's just one fairly long pitch. No need to rappel; there is an easy descent gully just to climber's left.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Dixville Notch : Parasol Gully (WI2+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: I've done this route at least 20 times and never felt the need to rappel. There's a easy descent that takes you right back to the base of the climb. Head up and right a couple of hundred yards and drop into the obvious broad gully; bear skier's right once the climb is in view. Watch the snow conditions on the very last section of the descent, which has avalanched in the past, and stay in the trees to skier's left if needed.

I removed both the tied-off ice tool pick that people had app... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Chocolate Rocks : Potzo's Pudding (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: We replaced the various threaded tat with 7mm static cord -- equalized, tied off, redundant. No issues pulling the rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Trad Climbing is Both (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb, pretty easy after the first couple of moves. Gear placements are at a premium on the first pitch, so think twice before passing any up. We belayed fairly high on the ramp that forms the second pitch; one could easily link both pitches, but we were concerned about the rope running over loose blocks on the slab, directly over the Gallery climbs.

Someone has left a big bolt and link down at the base of the second pitch ramp, which made approximately as much sense as the underw... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : The Hidden Persuaders (5.9 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: I don't think Birdland is a useful comparison for this route, which is full-on adventure climbing. There's some nice moderate varnished slab up high, but the price of admission is steep.

Approach: Either some very exposed traversing up high, or a brushy gully down low, to get to the tunnel. We roped up for a short, pretty easy pitch to get up to the actual starting belay. Anchor options aren't great here, but we managed a thread.

The real first pitch is quite serious. I was tempted to stay lef... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Arachnoworld (5.4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: The line described above bears no relation to the published descriptions of this climb in the Handren and Brock guides. For a route that resembles those descriptions:

Start under the tree ledge, just left of the big block that holds Sniveler and Heavy Spider Karma. Start up the left-facing corner on the right (easier), or stay left and do a couple of funky mantles with poor gear to the big ledge below the varnish. At the left end of this ledge, climb up the right-facing corner (more like 5.6 th... more >>


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