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Member Since: Jan 25, 2008
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Ben Townsend
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Total Points: 508
Last Year: 239
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Townsend been climbing?










Contributions


All 204 | Routes 36 | Areas 4 | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 85 | Posts 2 | Stars 75 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Lots of water flowing in the Gunsight descent as of mid-April.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Cat Scratch Fever (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: High quality climb, airy and exposed. The second pitch crux stays steep for longer than you might expect from a typical 5.8, but once you get to the left crack it is pure fun all the way to the nice belay ledge.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: We did pretty much what Dan describes above, except we never found the bolts. Instead, we used the fixed rope as a "safety" (with a prusik -- we didn't weight it, and when we saw the anchor we were glad we didn't) to climb up to the next ledge system west, then downclimbed and slithered through scrub oak to a short rap off a rock horn and then a 35m rap off a tree into the wash. This descent seemed unduly time-consuming and stressful; another time, I'd probably reverse Cat in the Hat.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Soupy Sales (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Maybe 5.4, if that. Unlimited protection options.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Fontanar de Rojo (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: More like 5.7 than 5.8. Above the varnished corner, we climbed up the face right of the bush, then traversed left into the exit crack; this section was probably the crux, and involved some creative gear placements.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Coco Crag : Ruta de Roja (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Fun and well protected, more like 5.6 than 5.7. We traversed into the right crack a bit higher, at a diagonal seam, rather than stepping right at the initial ledge. 180' is about right if you do all the climbing, though one could stop at about 150' and then scramble up a loose gully on the right.


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Mt. Willard : Main Slab : Across the Universe (5.10a PG13)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: At 6'4", I can stand on tiptoe after clipping the bolt and grab the jug above the crux. Feels like 5.7 for me.

I know this isn't actually useful beta for most people. On the other hand, a dyno might be.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Mudterm Area : Goods Are Odd (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Lots of fragile rock on this one. The descent gully is not for the faint of heart.


Location: ME : Tumbledown Mountain : Paradis Gully (WI2 M1)
By: Ben Townsend When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Neat route in a five-star location. Light rock rack to 1.5" is helpful. In this low-snow winter, we were able to drive to the trailhead in a Subaru Outback, but I am definitely not recommending that -- clearly the crux of the day!

We did a 200+' first pitch to a stance with a good rock anchor, then a short scratchy but easy pitch to the top. Rapping down the Chimney off the old rungs puts you very close to the start.

For those who have been up the approach in the summer: when covered with verg... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : Horseshoe Gully (WI2-)
By: Ben Townsend When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: A couple of fun ice bulges in the right conditions, but the bushwhack-to-climb ratio is pretty lopsided.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : The Pilgrimage (WI3)
By: Ben Townsend When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: Nice route if the snow conditions on the approach aren't too grueling. It's just one fairly long pitch. No need to rappel; there is an easy descent gully just to climber's left.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Dixville Notch : Parasol Gully (WI2+)
By: Ben Townsend When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: I've done this route at least 20 times and never felt the need to rappel. There's a easy descent that takes you right back to the base of the climb. Head up and right a couple of hundred yards and drop into the obvious broad gully; bear skier's right once the climb is in view. Watch the snow conditions on the very last section of the descent, which has avalanched in the past, and stay in the trees to skier's left if needed.

I removed both the tied-off ice tool pick that people had app... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Southern Outcrops : Chocolate Rocks : Potzo's Pudding (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: We replaced the various threaded tat with 7mm static cord -- equalized, tied off, redundant. No issues pulling the rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Trad Climbing is Both (5.6)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: Fun climb, pretty easy after the first couple of moves. Gear placements are at a premium on the first pitch, so think twice before passing any up. We belayed fairly high on the ramp that forms the second pitch; one could easily link both pitches, but we were concerned about the rope running over loose blocks on the slab, directly over the Gallery climbs.

Someone has left a big bolt and link down at the base of the second pitch ramp, which made approximately as much sense as the underw... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : The Hidden Persuaders (5.9 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: I don't think Birdland is a useful comparison for this route, which is full-on adventure climbing. There's some nice moderate varnished slab up high, but the price of admission is steep.

Approach: Either some very exposed traversing up high, or a brushy gully down low, to get to the tunnel. We roped up for a short, pretty easy pitch to get up to the actual starting belay. Anchor options aren't great here, but we managed a thread.

The real first pitch is quite serious. I was tempted to stay lef... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Arachnoworld (5.4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: The line described above bears no relation to the published descriptions of this climb in the Handren and Brock guides. For a route that resembles those descriptions:

Start under the tree ledge, just left of the big block that holds Sniveler and Heavy Spider Karma. Start up the left-facing corner on the right (easier), or stay left and do a couple of funky mantles with poor gear to the big ledge below the varnish. At the left end of this ledge, climb up the right-facing corner (more like 5.6 th... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Crispy Critters (5.7 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: Handren has the description correct, but the location wrong -- it's the left of the two cracks on the SE face of the big block, around right from the Lazy Fireman, an obvious slanting thin crack through black varnish. Mostly thin cams and small wires, could use gear up to 2". Rap from the slung summit block; could use another cordelette for redundancy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Captain Crunch (5.7)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: As others have noted, Handren has the descriotion correct but the location wrong -- it's the right-hand of the two cracks on the SE face of the big block, around right of the Lazy Fireman. Rack for the route consisted of #3, 4, and 5 Camalot (if you're comfortable bumping up the #4 a few times, otherwise take two of those). Rather than downclimb to the Lazy Fireman chains, we slung the summit block for a rap anchor; solid, but could use another cordelette for redundancy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Children of the Sun (5.10b)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 13, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch up to the first anchor. Pretty sustained and pumpy for 5.8+, I thought. Broke a couple holds on lead and teetered a bit, but no falls. Maybe the pump was mostly due to spending time looking for the most solid holds.

All bolt hangers except the first were welded cold shuts, pretty uninspiring. The bolts themselves looked to be in reasonable shape. Placed a couple pieces and slung a couple horns between the bolts; another time, I'd bring a tiny rack, probably just wi... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : The Slab
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: In addition to the routes shown on the photo-topo, there are two bolted lines immediately left of Smear Campaign, both about 5.8.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Elephant Penis (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I got much of the information below from Joanne Urioste last spring, but didn't get around to doing the route until today.

Looking from the Pine Creek lot, the obvious blank, white, 700' high pillar on the east-facing (left) wall of Stick Gully is the eponymous organ of pachydermal procreation, also known as Pearl Buttress. This route, also known as Datura to some, starts in an alcove immediately at its left base.

1. Above an easy slab, enter a short chimney that leads up to a corner and emerg... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : North Eastern Buttress of B... : Dogleg Crack (5.8)
By: Ben Townsend When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Quality route, best done in two pitches. The chimney at the very start is a bit awkward until you can start stemming, but I had a perfect red Tricam in a pocket right where I needed it. Above there, it's just fun.

On the second pitch, we went all the way to the top of the spire for full value, but sadly the rock quality deteriorates; it makes more sense to head right into the slot, which is the start of the descent.

We freshened up the rap station, but really it's hardly needed. An e... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : R2D2 (5.8 R)
By: Ben Townsend When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: I got a bomber small cam in a somewhat hidden pocket halfway to the first bolt, taking the sting out of the committing first section.


Location: NH : Great North Woods Region : North Percy Peak : South West Face (5.4)
By: Ben Townsend When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: Did this route for the second time on 8-31-15. Nailed the approach this time. Comments:

1. Stay horizontal on the traverse through the woods after leaving the trail. Disregard the first little 10' vegetated "cliff." The cliff mentioned in the description is about 30' high and vertical. Head up right under it until it's easy to continue traversing left (there's at least one scary-looking spot where it looks like you might be able to scramble up; keep going). Once you've cleared the cli... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak - East : Shaken, Not Stirred (5.9)
By: Ben Townsend When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Attractive line, disappointing rock quality. Approach as for Schaeffer's Delight, but where that approach heads up right into the brush, diagonal about 50' left.

P. 1: Climb awkwardly up the initial corner past some loose blocks to the next big ledge. 5.7, 30'

P. 2: Face climb up the nicely varnished prow, trending up and left to a triangular alcove. This is a really enjoyable pitch. 5.7, 130'

P.3: Up the low-angle crack, then pull over the obvious roof and on to the varnished headwall. Climb... more >>


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