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Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Mottinger


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 14, 2016
Contact Ben Mottinger

Point Rank: # 123
Total Points: 4,079
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
151 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Mottinger been climbing?










Contributions


All 884 | Routes 156 | Areas 65 | Photos 284 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts | Stars 217 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A #3 Camalot is a little too big for the handcrack on P4--several #2s are definitely preferable. Also, I just wanted to add that the pro for this climb is great--easy to place and well-protected at all the cruxes.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I just read these comments again and realized I made a mistake. For the first variation I meant to say the crack on the far "left" then traverse "right" to gain the crack.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Playground : Emerald Epitaph (5.10b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: In Hanson's guidebook, this is listed as a top rope, but it has since been bolted.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this in Oct. of 99 with my Italian friend Matteo, and the rock was so cold I couldn't feel my fingers and hands--good thing I let him lead it. ;-) The crux was pretty tricky for a 5.7, just as the final Cozyhang/Owl roof is.

This is number 1 in the picture.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Thindependence (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this today 5-6-01 with Charles after a morning of climbing in Boulder Canyon. I wanted to mention that like Chucky said, avoiding the Pear Buttress flake is a good choice. You can start the route by 4th classing up a little chimney to the left of the flake. Have your belayer perch on the top of this big block with his/her feet pressed against the slab. Comfy little spot. The leader can continue around the left and up an easy slab to the start of the route.

A fun TR (or no pro) variation to ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Charles and I were meaning to climb this today, but neither of us were feeling quite up to committing past the first section. We did boulder up past the crux though and got a good RP below the finger crack. I think it would have definitely protected a fall moving to the finger jam where the TCU could be placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Fandango Variation (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There is another variation that is similar, but I give it 2.5 stars, 5.6. For the second pitch, head past a small tree on the edge of a dropoff to the dihedral below. Find an easy way down to this dihedral and follow it until you see a small roof. Tackle the roof, and rejoin Fandango. This variation is fun because of the big dihedral and little roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Number Cruncher (V2)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: We haven't seen anyone do this sick traverse so really we should have a ? grade for it. I agree, its probably way harder than V5.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this again on 5-9-01 and guess who was climbing one pitch ahead of us? The one and only George Hurley himself! What an honor to climb with the FA on a classic route.

I also forgot how much I love the 4th pitch. It doesn't get much better than that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Myke and I did the 8 variation today (12/15) in the snow--quite fun actually. I wanted to mention that there are three starts to this climb. 1: 5.5: the crack on the far right, then traverse left to the dihedral. 2. 5.8: straight up the middle to the dihedral. 3. 5.6: next to the boulder, then traverse left to the dihedral. Also, if you do the roof variation, you can rap 75 from the Tagger anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is an atypical crack pitch for Eldo. A parallel hand crack with nothing for the feet except to jam the crack. This is a burly and sustained 40ft. of 5.8 jamming. A 2.5 Friend is the perfect size for this crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Ignominity (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: On pitch 3 there is a variation that heads right through a thin crack (10b). There is an old 0.25in. bolt on the face above.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The bottom of the route has a maximum of about 10d/11a but the crux is pulling over the little roof at the last bolt. Tricky footwork and crimpy holds.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : The Way Out (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route has only a few difficult moves, but they are closer to solid 5.8 and the crux lieback is committing. If I remember correctly, a #4 Camalot can protect the flake at the crux better than a smaller piece down low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Huston Crack (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A #4 Camalot or equivalent is almost mandatory unless you run it out through the offwidth section. If you have two, you could really sew it up.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : Thought Control (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just to add a bit to the story of Steve. To this day, we can'treally figure out HOW he broke his ankle. He took what appeared to be a clean 12ft. fall but must have caught his foot on a small edge.

The result was a completely shattered ankle which required 13 screws and two plates in surgery that night. Now "Frankenfoot" is getting back into climbing, but a freak accident like that really makes you second guess yourself when you have to get back on the sharp end.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.9-)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: An awesome route with a perfect crack for most of this long route. The grade is a little sandbagged IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bol... (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just to reiterate what Charles said--it really looks like 5.10ish from below, but once you actually start climbing it, you'll see the good holds.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Pee on Dee (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The direct start is about a V2 problem. It involves liebacking the sloping or flared crack then highstepping to gain the thin, slopey rail.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Deck Chairs on the Titanic (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: All these popular routes at Table seem to be getting slightly harder due to the holds being quite polished and greasy. The whole climb (with or w/out the direct start) seems more like 10a now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did the 10a variation today with Charles--instead of exiting through the normal V-slot, take a hand crack angling right, just 15ft from the belay then continue to the summit via another nice crack.


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