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Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Mottinger


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: May 14, 2016
Contact Ben Mottinger

Point Rank: # 124
Total Points: 4,079
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
152 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Mottinger been climbing?










Contributions


All 884 | Routes 156 | Areas 65 | Photos 284 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts | Stars 217 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Monument Rock : The South Face (5.8 X)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 10, 2002

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Comments: How could such a circuitous route on horrible rock get 3 stars?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Sherwood Forest : The Fully Clothed Edge (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: The move past the first bolt is quite difficult for 10a--seems harder to me since the lockoff is so powerful to reach the large cobble. The rest of the route is balancy, and a little insecure at times. Really fun though.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Prarie Dog (5.10c/d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: The feet at the crux seem insecure when throwing for the lip, but the left hand and foot can really crank off those holds. A deadpoint seems committing, but go for the onsight--it's well-protected.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Bag of Tricks aka Flake (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 18, 2001

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Comments: The move to get into the corner seems 10a to me--quite powerful compared to other 9s I've climbed.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Independence Chimney (5.8 C1)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 12, 2001

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Comments: This is the best chimney route I've ever done--the full body chimneying mixed with finger jamming on P3 is rather interesting.

On P1, it may be possible to free climb this around 5.11ish, but watch out for the flexing flake! Pro is decent enough, but may be difficult to place. On P2, a #4 Camalot protects the opening, crux moves--a #3 Friend can be placed a little higher. The pitch is a little runout if you don't have a #5 Camalot, but easier than the initial OW. A No. 5 m... more >>


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Simply Read (5.13d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: It seems like in our rush to get the new "Modified Route" pages up before routes designated as such, we didn't think carefully enough on the impact of doing so.

We would like to make this a community effort, not a unilateral process. Routes in the gray area (ie: ones with glued holds as preventive or a fix) will NOT be added to this "black" list. Our stance may not cohere with all users of cb.com, but we know that the majority of climbers (in this community) oppose manufactured routes.

It is... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 2, 2001

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Comments: At the end of the second pitch, if you're looking to bail, you can rap with TWO ropes to the ground. (50m ropes may be long enough--we did this with 2 60s and had about 10-15m extra--anyone else know for sure?)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Green Dihedral (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 2, 2001

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Comments: Can be done as one pitch if you're 'solid at the grade' ;-). The second time around makes the route seem a little harder than 5.7--maybe 8-.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : College Drop Out aka East F... (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Oct 13, 2001

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Comments: Did the route again for the second time today (after jaunts up the 1st and 2nd) and it really is spectacular. If you stay as far right as possible for the whole route, the climb is even more airy, clean, and aesthetic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Face (5.8 R)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Aug 27, 2001

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Comments: Just to update/add some beta for fixed gear on this route, there are several fixed pins on the first traversing pitch, two on the second (rising traverse) pitch, and three, count em, three nice bolts for the 5.8 crux over the bulge. Also, the final rap station has a CMC marker that says 105' to ground, but a 60m reaches fine. You may have to swing slightly left to higher ground though.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Satterfield's Crack (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Aug 3, 2001

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Comments: This fun chimney/offwidth can be done as one pitch w/ a 50m. I would highly recommend the "Bolder Exit" variation since it keeps the route in a direct line and has some exposed moves to finish. Solid for 5.9 but it can be protected nicely with a 0.5 friend--so don't leave all the small stuff at home.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Old Man River (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 18, 2001

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Comments: Richard--Is this route just left of Bottom Side Down? I believe I climbed this route (the L&R variations at a roof sound familiar), but I thought the roof on the right was harder than 10c/d--maybe I just was pooped for the day, but the slopers stumpted me several times. Harder than BSD and The River Mild IMO.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Cave Wall : The Good Bad and Dirty (5.10d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 4, 2001

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Comments: I looked at Peter Hubbel's guide which includes the Wood, and he lists the first roof as 10c, the second as 10a, and the final one as 10c/d. Now that I think about it, the first roof was probably a little harder than 9, but not quite 10c IMO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 4, 2001

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Comments: Even though the route's high quality should be apparent by all the other comments, I have to spray a little more on it. I've only done a few routes where each pitch has such continuous, excellent climbing with fantastic position and exposure (especially on P2).

The crux pitch gradually increases in difficulty until the last move before a "thank you God" jug. Like Pat said, quite fun stemming--bring shoes that can smear and hold a small edge. The second pitch has several 5.9 cruxes that are... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 4, 2001

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Comments: I did this route again, this time with the 5.9 finger crack variation. The variation is fun, but not too long and pretty easy for the grade IMHO. I thought it compared in difficulty to the rest of the route (maybe only slightly harder).

Also, some gear advice: some tricams (0.5, 1) work well and bring a #4 Camalot if you have one to protect a section near the end with two wide cracks on either side. Otherwise, you'll have to run it out slightly, but if you feel comfortable on 5.8 ter... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a/b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 24, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch (10c ish, #3 in the picture) is a blast. There are some holds here that makes it seem like a gym climb--huge flakes, horns, really incut pockets, etc. A pretty juggy and easy haul through the roof IMO.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Cave Wall : The Good Bad and Dirty (5.10d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 23, 2001

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Comments: Comment to Andy Donson: The route with a single bolt to the right of TGTB&TD is called "Time Passages" if we're talking about the same route. It is a 10d finger crack.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Chicken Wing Crack (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 23, 2001

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Comments: Although this crack is definitely OW in size, most of the route can be climbed using pockets, face holds, stemming, etc. Don't leave the long pants at home though...


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Skunk Budtress (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 23, 2001

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Comments: There is not really one distinct crux IMO on this route--it is pretty consistent throughout so take care in clipping the first bolt. Like Myke said, very typical CWC route: short, steep, pockets, cobbles, balance, fun.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Skunk Budtress (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 23, 2001

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Comments: Whoops. Forgot to this in the last comment. There's actually 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (just in case you were planning to hike all the way to Project X wall with only two draws to do this route only ;-)


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Lothar (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 23, 2001

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Comments: I heard Myke and Shaun did this route so my bro and I had to give it a go a few days later. It is so juggy that I'd have to give it a 9- compared to the ratings for the other climbs in the area. A really fun route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: First, to clarify--Myke means that you can just reach the 1st belay ledge w/ a 60m when rapping from the very top. Also--the new route to the right of PCs is only 1 pitch and about 5.9 and includes a large flake to lieback about 1/2 way up. You can still climb this variation, then head over to the second pitch of PCs. Finally, Myke must have had his marshmellow shoes on, because theres not an abscence of holds for the hands at the crux on P1--they are just subtle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Well, that doesn't surprise me, Pat, that you would underestimate or dare I say sandbag a pitch or a whole climb. I've NEVER heard you say something like, "Yeah, it was rated 12a s, but is actually more like 11c or so." ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Yes, I made the same mistake on the descent too which made for some tangy downclimbing the steep slope with loose rocks. The correct or easier way is to stay high on the traverse until you see the talus field.

I found that many smaller pieces work best for the first pitch. My largest piece was a #2 Friend until the last move, where I placed a #3 Friend.

On a side note, Myke and I were filmed on this route today (4-30-01) for some climbing instruction program to be aired on a new ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Wide Load aka Route 3 (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I looked this up in Desert Rock III and it gets a 10a rating for the small bulge after the OW section. Forgot the name though...Doh.


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