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Ben Mottinger


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 8, 2014
Contact Ben Mottinger


Point Rank: # 103
Total Points: 4,079
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
154 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Mottinger been climbing?










Contributions


All 884 | Routes 156 | Areas 65 | Photos 284 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts | Stars 217 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: VA : Indian Graves Ridge : IGR East side : Just This Side of AARP (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: Good one for a first lead although consider pre-placing a 0.5 Friend for the new leader.


Location: VA : Indian Graves Ridge : IGR East side : Gunkness Right (5.7 PG13)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: The first few feet in the corner are nice but unless you finish direct, it is too disjoint to finish left.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Morning Sun Wall : Pointillist (5.10c/d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jul 26, 2010

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Comments: As of 7/25/10, the bee hive is still there but no active bees. It actually smelled good moving past it. Mmmmm...honey....

The route is a little sandy and I was knocking off a few pebbles here and there but all the critical holds are just fine. You can put a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack before the first bolt to inspire a little more confidence when clipping.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Scratchy Face (5.10d)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 9, 2008

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Comments: Felt a bit tougher than Topaz, but maybe I'm just out of slab climbing shape.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Freedom (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Apr 23, 2006

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Comments: Route is pretty forgettable. The first few moves up the dihedral are ok, but then it seems the route ends and the route setter just added bolts to the nearest easy anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Lightning Bolt Arete (5.11b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 8, 2005

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Comments: Now that I look at the topo, the route doesn't really go over the bulge and then right. It goes right under the bulge then up the RHS of the arete. But you'll figure that out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Crack Up (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jul 16, 2005

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Comments: Pretty good route with shade. Seemed a little stiff for 5.9--pretty wide down low.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Scandanavian Dreams (5.11a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jul 7, 2005

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Comments: No eagles when I did the route. I did see evidence of some large bird, but I bet it was a vulture, I guess hence the name. Thought the last move was pretty stout for 11a, but I just may be out of shape.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq...
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 11, 2004

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Comments: As of 11/6/ Alexander's is in--good ice with the second (gully) pitch snow and ice. The Smear of Fear did not extend beyond the diagonal crack at the start. Looked spicy getting up to the ice.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks : Catalyst (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Sep 10, 2004

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Comments: Too short for 2 stars IMHO. Worth doing though if you're there.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jul 25, 2004

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Comments: FA: McClure: "Hi, I'm Troy McClure. You may remember me from such climbs in RMNP as the Barb..."


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Reservoir
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 17, 2004

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Comments: I've toproped a few lines on boulders/rocks where the start would be in the water--kinda fun.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George's Tree (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 9, 2004

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Comments: Bring stiff shoes for this route--the jams are painful. Nice line and continous climbing--I thought the crack was a little gritty and painful for a 3 star. Maybe I'm just a wimp.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: I'll give it 3 stars so the average increases a little--easily 2.5 stars in my book. To follow on Jay's comment, I think a key for this route is not stopping to place gear from those bad stances. You only need the fixed piece at the first crux, a couple pieces in between before the traverse--then go.

And oh BTW, Quinn really is a sport climber so his rack advice up to only #1 Friend is a little skimpy--you can place several pieces in the 2-2.5 range.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Clear-a-Sill (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 2, 2004

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Comments: There is a nice set of bolts for rapping at the top of this route now. A 60m will reach the bolts near the tree at the end of the first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnac... (5.4)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Apr 21, 2004

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Comments: Here is an account I received from the FA, John McCrumm.

I am 92 now - an age when one looks back to long- gone days. On a misty, cold November afternoon in 1931, I walked along Baseline Rd. and up to the Amphitheater. In earlier scrambles, I had spotted the interior N.E. corner as a climb to be tried, all the way to the top of the north wall.

Armed with my gym shoes and 120 feet of hemp rope from the local hardware store, I felt I was well prepared! 5.4 didn't even exist in those days and I f... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Mar 8, 2004

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Comments: March 6-7 saw warm temps with cloudless days and a lot of routes in the sun were dripping and dropping ice (especially w/ use).

There was still plenty of great ice and you can even climb shirtless if you're so inclined. Just watch out for all the ice starting to detach. Routes in the shade were plastic but stable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island II : Candelaria's Crack (5.12a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 22, 2004

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Comments: In response to the location, use the directions from the rock page:

climbingboulder.com/rock/db/bo...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Nymph Lake
By: Ben Mottinger When: Dec 13, 2003

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Comments: Ice is in, although a little thinner than Leo's topo. Urinalysis has rotten ice (kinda sketchy) above the first main pillar. Start for On the Rocks direct has no useable ice until just past the second bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Daily Grind (5.10b/c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: Felt thin for 10b/c, but then again I'm a little out of shape for face climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Rama (5.11a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: I stayed in the corner including the crack at the roof, but still consider it only 10c. Going out left at any point seems off route in a sport climbing sense anyway.

I used a green (smallest) Splitter 2cam for the last section to the anchors. Get some if you still can!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Moffatt Tunnel : South-facing Smears : South Facing Wall (West of... (WI2-3)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Nov 20, 2003

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Comments: James--looks like you're climbing something from 7-11. ;-)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Aug 1, 2003

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Comments: You can get more gear than two draws for the second half. I placed about 5 I think. A mid-size offset nut and #1 Friend can be placed in addition to the pitons, last bolt, and a #2.5 Friend at the start.

Felt easier than C'est la Vie, West Buttress, etc.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jun 16, 2003

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Comments: For the first pitch after traversing the Notch, you can go up a slabby section trending more left than up to a nice 5.7 corner that puts you at the same belay as if you went up the chimney. Same for the last technical pitch--a LH variation is about 5.7-5.8 (starts in a wide crack and finishes in a large R facing dihedral w/ a thin crack. This variation has an old ring piton right at a view through a pinnacle.

Lamb's Slide is soft snow even early--very little evidence of falling rock. Broadwa... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Ben Mottinger When: May 27, 2003

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Comments: Overall excellent. I would suggest an extra 3.5" piece if you belay below pitch 4/5 (5.9 hand crack). The belay requires this size so the leader must climb fairly high before a no. 2 camalot fits.

Near the end of pitch 6 there is a very small little overhang cave thing that is just big enough to keep two people from getting rained on as long as you are about 12 years old. Otherwise you have to like your partner a whole lot. And enjoy knees/elbows/etc jammed in your chest/legs/etc. @SEMICOL... more >>


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