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Ben Hoyt


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 4,164
Total Points: 104
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ben Hoyt been climbing?










Contributions


All 31 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 1 | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
By: Ben Hoyt When: Jun 16, 2003

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Comments: We got rejected on a parking spot at the Glacier Gorge lot Sunday 6/15 since we didn't show up until 10:30, so I timed the "extra" hump from Bear Lake parking to the start of the trail from the Glacier Gorge lot (downhill). 8 minutes. So, if you are ridiculously slow, with the new shuttle, and the horrible extra distance, you're forced to start at 5:08am. You can do it. Save the $ you would have spent on Gore-Tex and all that camping stuff and buy something useful instead.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: Ben Hoyt When: Apr 15, 2003

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Comments: No Deep Freeze, no Necrophilia, and tragically, no Vanquished Buttress. Despite the ?perfect? ice forming conditions, nothing was in this (4/13) weekend. Except a sun-rotted Crypt.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton
By: Ben Hoyt When: Nov 17, 2002

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Comments: In South Mineral Creek:

The direct north face is NOT in (as of 11/17). The campground couloirs are, but sort of ice crust over powder. Really no good climbing in South Mineral Creek right now, although all routes can be groveled up.

Don't expect to get anything less than a monster truck with chains more than 1/4 mile down the road. Bring skis, and watch out for hungry birds.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: Ben Hoyt When: Oct 22, 2002

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Comments: On Friday 10/18 Necrophilia was not in, as an ice climb. Only about 1 cubic foot of ice on the steep parts (for those bad at math that means an average of 1 millimeter thick. Ha). Bring some cord to add to the fixed anchors.

Deep Freeze is all in... except for the part that everyone wants to climb, the pillar at the top of the climb. Give it a good while.

All Mixed up looked good but dripping as we trotted by. Give it a short while, probably a day or two after this storm passes.

The tra... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Jul 23, 2002

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Comments: The 2nd pitch can be more serious than the 1st, again conditions-dependent. At the end of November 2001, we climbed the M6 variation to the 1st on the right, then about 80 feet of the 2nd pitch. This involved two good pieces of pro, a cam and a 17 cm screw inside of a cave in the back of the gully (offwidth size cave), with no ice and no pro for the next 50 feet. I would have guessed M6+ X. I've also seen pictures where this pitch looks WI4. Awesome route.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Not My Cross To Bear (5.11a/b)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: I second that. Every move is fun, nice natural pockets show up just where you want them, and the corner is steep and clean. The best climb of its grade in Penitente.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride
By: Ben Hoyt When: Dec 4, 2001

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Comments: Ames isn't non-existent, exactly... just a crucial 15 foot section on the top of the 2nd pitch. We attempted it on Saturday (12/1) - 1st pitch do-able on 100% rock, 3rd and 4th pitches are typical fat conditions, at least from visual inspection. The top 15 feet of the 2nd pitch chimney aren't climbable (by me, at least) right now... overhanging snow. The bottom of the 2nd pitch is still frightening in itself - took only one ice screw inside a sort of narrow cave in the back of the chimney, th... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Tenmile Canyon aka Officer'... : The Shroud (WI3-4)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Dec 2, 2001

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Comments: Climbed here today. A nice short/steep pillar on the left is in fat. Thinner and steep curatains on the left also lead. The middle curtain probably isn't leadable right now, maybe in another week with good weather. Top rope it, though.

Watch out at the top - not much ice headed to the high anchors, and lots of loose rock.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Pencil & Eraser area aka Be... : Svengali (M9)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Nov 12, 2001

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Comments: Wild. Big moves between sort of rotting flakes in the roof with very hard feet. Hooks just above the roof are small, and feet are nearly nothing there. Prepare to be sore after even one good go.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Nov 10, 2001

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Comments: This is the most stunning sport climb I've seen in Colorado. The climbing is excellent, with memorable moves, following the arete for the entire length of the climb.

The beginning slab is thin and delicate, with a dyno from the slab and arete pinch to a big flake and the last rest (on a ledge) before the real business.

The arete above the rest is the crux, with extreme pinching and body tension to milk the tiny wrinkles for feet. Once you get into the huecos on the upper section (on your... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Square Rock : Android Power Pack (5.12c/d)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Nov 10, 2001

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Comments: This is indeed "super-stout". Probably a touch harder than the rating. The crux comes fairly quickly. After the shared opening moves of Yellow Christ, a quick bump left to a small but good undercling sets you up to move your feet to very small foot holds for a deadpoint to a not-positive sidepull at full extension.

The next moves are very difficult, and desperate. After the most strenuous bit, you are deposited on a jug (for that route, at least), that leads to easier, yet still continuous... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Square Rock : Yellow Christ (5.12b)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Nov 10, 2001

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Comments: An excellent route, sustained the for the duration, although there are 3 good holds - two about 12 feet off the bottom, the first is part of a big block that is supported by some obvious green glue (necessary, and the block is natural). The second is just one move away from the first. The third decent hold is up high, right where you would place your gear on lead. The problem with these holds is that the feet generally suck, except at the finger-crack/layback bit. This makes it nearly imposs... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Deep Freeze (WI5-6 M5 R)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Oct 28, 2001

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Comments: Climbed it today. From the previous description, it sounds like the upper pillar is in the same, possibly a little worse condition.

Still dripping, it was quite warm today, but otherwise a fantastic, sort of scary, climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Ben Hoyt When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just a few clarifications to the route description and Charles comment. First, the "30ft. of runout" past the crux on P2 is not runout at all. Maybe Andy meant that it was easy 5.4 or so, but definitely not runout.

You can rap from the eyebolt on the Red Ledge with two 50m ropes, but you must downclimb (easy 5th class) about 10ft from a big ledge. Not sketchy at all.