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Member Since: Mar 19, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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mountainhick
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Total Points: 168
Last Year: 60
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has mountainhick been climbing?










Contributions


All 974 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 58 | Posts 597 | Stars 159 | Ratings 141
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Generally agree with 5.9+, but for potrero, could easily be called 5.10a.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Lickety Split (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Hardest 5.10d I've been on at Potrero. Seemed as hard as two pumped chump.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Blind Faith (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Great fun. I found the crux to be pretty continuous for 25-30'. Third pitch is fantastic, great airy position, and pretty continuous with a little stinger near the top. Just excellent!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Pins and Needles (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It ain't over after pulling out of the alcove! Nice pitch.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Red Headed Step Child (5.10 PG13)
By: mountainhick When: 3 days ago

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Comments: My most un-favorite route after climbing 4 days at El Potrero Chico. Run out to a joke of a junk old "ring bolt", somewhat suspicious bolt higher up, and some chossy breakable holds. Quality routes to either side. Not worth the trouble.


Location: General Climbing : What does your Woody look l... : Post : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks!

Actually just had a breakthrough, finally figured out the OW!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Krimo Gold (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Surprised this route has so few comments. Great route! My favorite of this trip to Squamish. Highly recommended if you are leading mid 5.10 solidly.

All pitches are good. Multiple 5.10 cruxes/sections and good variety. Top pitch is continuously steep but felt generally quite secure (to me) with lots of great hand jams and rests between creative jamming, stemming laybacking etc. Stellar pitch!

Pro seemed good enough, though some a bit fiddly, and some sections felt pretty committing. There wer... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Vixen (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Look out for wasps a few feet right of the start under a small overhang.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Best photo on Mountainproject!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : The Cruise (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Another party was starting Heavy Weather, so we went up to do this and the chimney/OW corner. Worth doing once, but I wouldn't make a special effort to do this climb otherwise. A serious lead with marginal pro getting to the bolt, so not recommended if you aren't solid at 5.9 or 5.9+.

Bolt/hanger is currently rusted/questionable.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Concentric (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Fun, little traverse. The crux pro placement is not the most awe inspiring, the rock there is coarse grained, and the placement is flared and angled.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Trouble And Strife (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: I liked this little climb! Short but full value and protects well. Good fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Zap Snack (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, escaping to the arete keeps it in the 5.10 range, but 5.10c is a sandbag for stemming through the top corner if you don't have freakish yoga/splits abilities. A couple comments on Terminal Velocity back this up too, people saying the upper corner is harder than the lower 5.11b/c crux.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Face (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Updated the "beta photo". Reading the description and comments here, I was pretty confused about the variations when I went to lead this a few days ago.

"The 5.10 section", "the 5.11 start", "the 5.10a bulge", "getting on the slab (5.10a/b)", "the 10c way", "the 11a/b way", "the 11b variation", "direct start via thin crack (5.10c/d)", "the 11b straight up variation", "the 10a/b bulge"....

After getting on it:

-Direct start: just right of the start to Hair City, climb the thin crack straight ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: P1 PG-13 for sure, though not at the crux level. P2 is fun though a bit unnerving off the ground. If you come off the thin face to the first pro, you'd easily break an ankle. "R" rating for this on the upper pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Faulty Logic (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Contrived, not a great line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Grand Course (5.11-)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: The route itself and movement is very cool, but the slickness and pigeon shit detract (the 5.10 variation, I have not yet done the 5.11 section).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Northumberland Crack (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: The wide crack on P2 is fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Blind Faith.
Blind Faith.


I have loved this climb since I first climbed it in the '80s with hexes and stoppers! P1 is the purest crack climb I can think of at the grade in Eldo, and P2 is a really nice compliment with very different climbing. Just wish it was more continuous. When on the west side of the Bastille, Blind Faith is almost mandatory every time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : March of Dimes (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Kerr, ditto Tony B above. 3 variations for P1 start, and if you want good pro, there are at at least 3 good placements on the left start before moving up into the left-leaning crack; a micronut then a TCU under the left-arcing overhang, then another good placement at the base of the crack itself before committing. If you start up and move right a little traversing across the 5.11 start, there's a great right kneebar to help you hang out to place and rest before the moves into the crack... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Moves entering the corner are cranky and awkward.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Strawberry Shortcut (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: One move wonder. I apparently missed the 5.9 beta on this move which felt harder to me than any single move on Outer Space. This one I had to downclimb twice to rest to figure it out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Short but high value. Really enjoyed this pitch!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful route!

I didn't find it R, maybe PG-13 going around the first bulge P1 traversing to the corner, and on the P2 upper hueco-ed runout to the top, but neither sections are near the crux 5.10b-ish grade. Pro seemed plentiful and solid otherwise.

Don't let your guard down after pulling through the P2 crux. Stays pretty continuous and has a couple more interesting cruxy bits on the upper headwall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Agree with hwendlandt. Just climbed this today, maybe I was off on this one, but in the context of similarly rated climbs (hard 5.10-5.11) we did today:

Bonehead, S, 5.10c/d;
Conehead, S, 5.11b;
Trouthead, S, 5.10c/d;
Eiger Sanction, S, 5.10d;
Eiffel Tower, S, 5.10d;

the crux was every bit as hard as Conehead for me (which I thought was 5.11a), and harder than Trouthead or Eiger Sanction.


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