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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : Photo
By: Ben H When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What route is that? Is that to the left of B-Grizzle about 20ish feet?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : California Girls (aka Muffi... (5.11b)
By: Ben H When: Feb 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Nick. Sort of squeeze job, and its bolt line is so close to Puss N Boots near the crux of Puss N Boots.
Also feels much easier than PnB, but is similarly rated.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Grey Giant : Hyperion (5.11d)
By: Ben H When: Jan 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 anchors are questionable quarter inch with some good slingage. Stellar first pitch. Brass nuts are good pro, but a 00 for p1 crux would be good.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Balanced Rock : Get the Balance Right (5.11c)
By: Ben H When: Jan 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The whole block is a balanced pile of choss that is exfoliating on all faces. The 11C is Not a 3 star route, and getting it done without breaking a crumbling jug onto your belayers's dome, is probably the only measure of success in getting the route done. The 5.9 has terrible bolts all over it, many of which wouldn't hold a substantial fall, even if the rock did.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Sargeant Rock : Sergeant Pepper (5.11b)
By: Ben H When: Dec 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This felt a little hard at 11a. Really good though, just needs more traffic.
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Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon Nati... : Moro Rock (SEKI) : Aerial Boundaries (5.10) : Photo
By: Ben H When: Oct 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rad pic. Just did this... that little right nubbin made for a pretty good semi-restful stance.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Venturi Effect (5.12) : Photo
By: Ben H When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rad, I need to get on this, this season.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Escape Rock : Emotional Rescue (5.12a)
By: Ben H When: Dec 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff, the routes to the top of the formation are mostly gritty and junky, but a tr can be set up. The bottom of emotional rescue is also pretty trashy...once at the roof the quality improves. The route just isn't good as it looks like it would be.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : Headbanger's Ball (5.12b/c)
By: Ben H When: Nov 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm having a hard time understanding how this thing is only 1 to 2 letter grades harder than Apartheid? ... Its also a shame that the rest of the route over the lip wasn't a little better quality.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Castle Rock Area : Cracked Tower : What's Best in Life? (5.12a)
By: Ben H When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this cleanly on TR earlier this year. I heard that someone may have snaked the FA a week earlier. A free lead of this route may warrant an R rating, because of the limited height, and a good possibility of decking onto the slab underneath.
Was listed as a 'project'. I am suggesting the name "What's Best in Life?", but also don't want to take credit for an FA if someone has beat me to it. Felt 12-
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : London Calling (5.11c)
By: Ben H When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: toddgordon, thanks for that info. It actually looks like someone might have mashed that 3rd bolt in a little further recently? I saw it at a distance from British Airways a couple days ago, and it maybe? looks better than it did when I clipped it two weeks ago.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Arid Piles : Arid Piles - Northwest Face : 29 Palms (5.11d)
By: Ben H When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not stoked about the fashion in which I made my ascent. Lacked confidence in the small nuts I was placing. Including some micro nuts. Rested on some uninspiring gear a couple times. Was also really bummed when I realized I wasn't going to be able to crimp my way through this one, and had to use some real technique. Definitely some interesting/fun climbing though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : London Calling (5.11c)
By: Ben H When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 3rd bolt looks as though it has sustained a pretty severe fall. It is partially pulled, and bent pretty significantly.
Extend draws to reduce rope drag while pulling the exit moves of British Airways, or its a unpleasant finish or the British Airways flight.
The bottom is really gritty, but overall a pretty fun route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : EBGB Block Area : ... : Photo
By: Ben H When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: hah, what the hell are you doing hanging way down there?
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Incinerator Wall : ... : Photo
By: Ben H When: Sep 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha! I'm glad I remembered to check out the photo.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Big Bob's Big Wedge : Big Bob's Big Wedge (5.11 V5) : Photo
By: Ben H When: Jun 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is having a cast on aid?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Photo
By: Ben H When: May 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: whoaaa! Dude, that for sure is not the beta I used... Although, I wish maybe I had. :)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Arid Piles : Arid Piles - Northwest Face : Edge of Doom (5.10c PG13)
By: Ben H When: Apr 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's really awesome Bob. Thank you. I had stressed a bit about that routes safety. I felt obligated to go and do that myself. Better that someone who knows better than myself get it done instead. Its such a fun route, but left alone I could see someone getting hurt or worse. I'm sure it'll get plenty more traffic now.
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